Which screws, on what part of what marker?

If they're screws that hold the recievers of a M98c together, you can punch them out from the other side of the marker using a nail set and a hammer..

if I knew which screws were stripped, it'd be a little easier.

Well , okay , without knowing what tools you have , I can offer only suggestions .

First off , try a penetrating oil and let it set some time , to soak into the threads ,if they are anywhere near acessible ,if not , flood your Problem bolt and hope it will soak in ,oil wont hurt anything, just be messy . Stay away from WD-40 and the like , along with ruining O-rings , they actually varnish up after the solvents evaporate , compounding the problem !!

1. If you have acess to a bench grinder , and you are'nt sure its your allenhead screw thats stripped out , try resharpening your allen wrench ,maybe the portion that fits into the screw is rounded off enough to cause the wrench to slip . with a pitcher of water very handy nearby , grind off the tip (end) of the allen wrench that fits the screw , do this in VERY small increments , cooling the metal of the wrench off in the water after every few seconds of grinding , this will keep the wrench's hardness (temper) , while giving you an unused portion of wrench to try , (like trying a New wrench without buying a new one ) . Sometimes taking a hammer and tapping the top of the allen wrench after its seated in the bolt (Fairly firmly ) will help to loosen the problem bolt.

2.Easy -out there is a tool set made , can find it at sears , that has a reverse spiral made for removing stripped bolts and screws . it is a tapered spiral that fits into a hole (your stripped allen head socket ) and trys to dig deeper and bite into the hole more , the deeper it goes in,, if you can find one in a size that you actually need to tap it into the head of your allen screw to even get it to fit , the odds are pretty good that it will bite into the screw enough to sucessfully remove it . these are sold ,sometimes with the matching drill bit to properly fit each size easy out .

so far , these are methods that will not mar ,or possibly damage surrounding metal or threads . The following should be done using the UTMOST caution , because you MIGHT damage your marker ,no matter how careful you are !!

3.If the head of the bolt protrudes , even slightly above the marker , you may be able to take a Hacksaw and put a slot into the head of the screw , do this as deeply as you can, without going into the surrounding metal , this will give you a fresh , straight , clean slot to put a flathead screwdriver into . Counterclockwise to loosen , and remember to tap it lightly with a hammer first to seat the screwdriver into the slot, and the vibrations may help to loosen the screw .

4 If the bolt head does NOT protrude (is flush) with the surrounding metal . Its time to get seriously with it and get this bugga out , you will need a small punch (round punches WONT work , dont even try,,) the punch NEEDS to be like a small chisel  (the width needs to be less than the width of the head of the screw ), Sharp IE ===> , straight , and flat . on the outside edge OF THE SCREW , tap the punch straight down to make an impression in the screw , this will give your punch a place to grip the metal and not slide over the top of it . after you have made the small groove , tilt the punch so the force of the impact tends to rotate the screw COUNTERCLOCKWISE .. and begin to tap the punch lightly at first (50 light taps is not unusual , before you see ANY movement !! ) and then with increasing force , gradually ,until you begin to see the screw back out , at times you may need ,or want to angle the punch so that most ,or more of the force of impact is downward , this will prevent ,to some degree the punch bouncing out of the groove and damaging the surrounding metal .

there are other ways of removing frozen bolts/screws , but they are extreme compared to what I have just outlined ,or require more equipment than the average "Joe" has available to him . Re-post if these work for you, or PM me if these methods dont work for you , I have 30 years of dreaded cold sweats removing bolts from pieces of machinery , and 95% of the time (or more ) the methods above will suffice .

Dan db09 wrote: well the screws that connect the drop to the grip block adapter

Find a drill bit that is the same size as the allen head bolt, jus drill out the top portion of the bolt off, from that point on you can split open yer grip and remove the rest of the bolt by either using yer fingers or a pair of pliers and if you dont wanna take that chance, jus bring yer marker to the shop and they can remove it fer ya.

Find a drill bit that is the same size as the allen head bolt, jus drill out the top portion of the bolt off, from that point on you can split open yer grip and remove the rest of the bolt by either using yer fingers or a pair of pliers and if you dont wanna take that chance, jus bring yer marker to the shop and they can remove it fer ya.