...hmmm

Well...

Forgive me for not giving a flying <bad word> about the .22 hornet or the 6 mm... I'm more of a .22 LR guy myself...

To tell you the truth, i know very little about the .22 hornet, or the 6 mm... as far as ballistics and firearm options go...

Exactially what kind of hunting are you doing here? Havolina? Is that where you trap a pig in a cage, then shoot it in the face with a .22? (one of my dad's friends is considering taking me for this)

What type of action do you want? Bolt action, lever action, slide action (pump), or semi automatic? Do you want it to have a magazine or do you want it to be a single shot? As far as magazines go, do you want detachable (like a "clip"... an external, detachable mag) or internal (like a tube, or something along those lines)? And what type of round do you want it to be chambered in? (.22 hornet, .22 LR, .223 (5.56mm))

I'm at a slight disadvantage here (beacuse I don't know squat about the .22 hornet), you'd be best off finding someone who hunts in this particulair style...

Oh, and what about that new browning .25 short action? Wierd looking, eh?

how big is a havolina?

i would reccomend a .243

it is a relitively small bullet but can take a wide variety of game including deer

so you can use it after you go hunt havolina

ok bolt action, internal 4 round mag, or single shot bolt action. Do you think the .22 LR will do what i need it to? if so suggest a good .22 LR. my friend said the .22 LR doesnt have enough power behind it to stop a havolina. 

browning .25 short action- the gun is ok the ammo

Just for L()G4N:

The .22 Hornet's history goes back to about 1885 with the .22 WCF (Winchester Centerfire). It looked just like the later Hornet and with its black-powder load it drove a 45-grain bullet to about 1500 feet per second.

In the late 1920s, Col. Townsend Whelen and Capt. G. L. Wotkyns began experimenting with the cartridge in a M1922 Springfield. Since the first guns were made with M1922 rimfire barrels, the groove diameter was .223 inch. Later, other gunmakers picked up on this cartridge, and some used a .224 groove diameter for their guns. The SAAMI standard for Hornet barrels is a .222 groove diameter. Don't ask me why, but even the factory ammo uses .224 bullets today. (Our test barrel is .224.) This has led some bullet makers to produce both .223- and .224-diameter bullets for Hornet reloaders. The .223-diameter bullets are gradually going out of style.

Winchester started loading commercial Hornet ammo in 1930 and Remington soon joined in. You can still get Hornet factory ammo from both companies, so there is still a good supply of cases. The cases we have in our inventory show the Remington brass holding about 0.5 grain more water than the Winchester. What this difference means is that the same load in our Winchester cases produced a slightly greater velocity at a somewhat higher pressure. Other case lots can very easily reverse this difference. This provides still another example of why you should always start any load development at the published starting load level.

The Hornet uses the small rifle primer, so primers aren't a problem. If you have a good-shooting gun, you might try some of these loads with bench-rest primers.

Bullets for the Hornet need a little discussion. In theory, you can use any .22-caliber bullets (if you have a .224 barrel), but in practice the list is considerably shorter.

Many older Hornets were built with one-turn-in-16-inch twist barrels. They are marginal with 52-grain bullets, and generally unsatisfactory with anything heavier. Many Hornet barrels today use a 1-in-14 twist, which will usually handle somewhat heavier bullets. You really need to measure your barrel to know just what your gun has in terms of both diameter and twist.

Because the Hornet with 45-grain bullets produces only slightly over 2600 fps, you have to use bullets with light jackets if you expect to get good "blowup" performance on varmints. This does reduce the selection of suitable bullets, but there are still plenty of choices.

The .22 Hornet (with a 15-grains-of-water case volume) is never going to keep up with the .223 Remington or even the .222. If you feel you just have to have 3000 fps out of a 50-grain bullet, you better trade your Hornet for a .222 because you just can't get there with that little case. Still, out to 150 yards--some say 200--the Hornet is a great varmint cartridge.

Accuracy can be another problem with Hornets. There are all sorts of stories, and the general thrust seems to be that some Hornets shoot great and others are terrible. A while back I was shooting an Anschutz Exemplar in .22 Hornet. The gun shot--and still shoots--very well. At the same time, I shot the same ammo in a couple of rifles. Neither rifle shot well by varmint standards. When I tried to put some of the cases that had been fired in the rifles into the Exemplar, they wouldn't chamber. They were much too large. That caused me to do some serious thinking about chamber size.

It turns out that even the minimum SAAMI chamber specifications are a loose fit on maximum Hornet ammo. With a maximum chamber (but still to spec) and minimum ammo (again, still to spec), you have room to throw a cat in the chamber along with the cartridge. The guns fire, and safety isn't an issue within the specified limits, but it does make for poor accuracy. It turns out that all the guns that I could find that shot well had minimum (or smaller) chambers.

We decided to try a little experiment. Working with the JGS Reamer folks in Coos Bay, Oregon (514-267-4331), we ordered a new reamer that produces a chamber that's a snug fit on the ammo the way it is being produced by the factory today. Bo Clerke made up several barrels incorporating the "tight" chambers made with the tight reamer. The group shown was fired from the barrel in the machine rest at a 100-yard distance. The load was 11.0 grains of Acc. 1680 behind a Hornady 52-grain match bullet, the case was Remington and the primer was the CCI-BR4. JGS treats custom reamer designs as proprietary, but they have our permission to make the "tight" reamers for anyone who wants to try one. Their reamer drawing is identified as "22 H FORKER."

Compared with some of the larger cases, the powder selection for the Hornet is a little limited. Still there are enough suitable numbers. The worst problem you run into is that it doesn't take a big change in powder burning rate to go from a powder that gets to maximum pressure before the case is full to one that fills the case before you can get to any decent pressure (and velocity).

For the record, the SAAMI maximum pressure is listed as 43,000 c.u.p. Only the copper crusher pressure is defined. I suppose that's because no one wanted to set up the old Hornet for transducer pressures. Using the denser spherical or rolled ball powders allows you to fit just a little more powder (by weight) into the case. The powders with fine granulation generally meter and pour better for these small charges than the long-grain tubular numbers. The Hornet is far from the easiest cartridge to reload for good performance.

Because the Hornet case is so small, you need to make your powder charge changes in very small increments as you build up loads. An increase of 0.5 grain is sometimes too much. A 0.25- or 0.3-grain increase is probably enough. After all, there's only about a 2.0-grain margin between the starting and the maximum loads.

The loads shown were developed in a rifle-length (24-inch) barrel. These same loads are also suitable for the single-shot pistols like the XP-100 and the Contenders. You can expect to lose as much as 300 to 400 fps when dropping down to a 12-inch barrel length. While the velocity will be reduced in the shorter barrels, you shouldn't allow yourself to get trapped into thinking you have to use faster powder in the shorter barrels. After all, the peak pressure--the ultimate limiting factor for loading--is reached after only about an inch or two of bullet travel. The same load develops the same peak pressure regardless of barrel length (at least until you get down to two inches or so).

The Hornet cartridge makes a great varmint number at modest ranges. In the right barrel, it can be as accurate as any other .22 centerfire.

whats the diffrence bettween 6mm and .243? so i should go with a .243 because it'll be gr8 for the javolina and deer at close range? hmmm. one problem with that no deer only Elk, we must have ran into 30 or so last time i was up there, dont worry not going to be hunting Elk soon and my friend has a gun i can use if we put in (we missed put in this year because the server was down).  i knew you'd come up with some good info.

THIS?

http://www.internetguncatalog.com/pics/78338.jpg - http://www.internetguncatalog.com/pics/78338.jpg

I believe your talking about the javelina, right? Not the havelina....I've killed many, you need something big enough to kill it, and drop it...they can run forever if u don't stop it

The Ho wrote: exactly^^^ dont be a pansy and use a 30-06 or a .308 or a .270 or a .284 that will actually bring it down in one shot so it doesnt suffer and you daont have to track it. i would rather use a gun that is overpowerd than a gun that is underpowered anyday. and since you are new to hunting, i think you should listen to us that have been hunting for many, many years.

What do y'all thing of this scope? it says its good for varmint

  http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/ctd_images/product_images/305 /22286.jpg - http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/ctd_images/product_images/305 /22286.jpg

specs

Magnification: 6-24X
Objective Diameter:40MM
Exit Pupil: 6.7-1.7MM
Field of View(100 yds.): 16-4ft.
Eye Relief(Min.): 3"
Windage & Elev Adj.: 1/8" click @ 100yds.
Length:15.5"
Weight: 20oz.

Alright.  I have never hunted the arizona version of wild boar but go with a .243 in a inexpensive savage bolt action WITH[extremely important] accutrigger[allow you to adjust trigger pull yourself, mine is less that 2 lbs.]  Do not go for a .17, .223, .22 hornet, or .22 long rifle.  NOT enough bullet unless you are very good.  .17 and .22 wont kill well at all.  If you have never hunted before shot placement may not be right on.  A bigger bullet will give you more room for error to make a clean kill.  Javalina have and do charge people and you can get very close to them due to bad eye sight[but very good smell].  Get a low power scope or else you can't get a bead on a charging animal.  Plus you don't need a high power scope due to relatively short shots.  If I were you I'd go with a .270/.280 in a pre-64 winchester modle 70 w/ iron sights but thats $$$.

Here is the deal:

Savage bolt action .243 w/ accutrigger[no bull barrel]

Low power scope-no more than 4x

Have fun

TheHoff wrote: Alright.  I have never hunted the arizona version of wild boar but go with a .243 in a inexpensive savage bolt action WITH[extremely important] accutrigger[allow you to adjust trigger pull yourself, mine is less that 2 lbs.]  Do not go for a .17, .223, .22 hornet, or .22 long rifle.  NOT enough bullet unless you are very good.  .17 and .22 wont kill well at all.  If you have never hunted before shot placement may not be right on.  A bigger bullet will give you more room for error to make a clean kill.  Javalina have and do charge people and you can get very close to them due to bad eye sight[but very good smell].  Get a low power scope or else you can't get a bead on a charging animal.  Plus you don't need a high power scope due to relatively short shots.  If I were you I'd go with a .270/.280 in a pre-64 winchester modle 70 w/ iron sights but thats $$$. Here is the deal: Savage bolt action .243 w/ accutrigger[no bull barrel] Low power scope-no more than 4x Have fun

Thats what i was thinking after rednekk had posted but everyones like 30-06 this and .308 that. i wasn't planning on buying for Cheaper that dirt it was just something i was lookin at so im thinkin about a 3-9x (which means its ajustable probley will keep it on 3 maybe 4) 42mm. remember i only have a $650 buget so im trying to get cheap.

http://www.savagearms.com/11fc.htm - http://www.savagearms.com/11fc.htm  <--- that what im thinkin about getting

oh, one more thing... about the recoil:

Whats the biggest gun you've ever fired? (as far as recoil goes)

If you hold the stock thight up against your shoulder, you wont feel much of anything, as far as that innitial jolt goes. (I'm talking right before your shot, hold it so tight that your arms start to wear out, then squeeze the trigger)

Keep your dominant leg a half step back (if you're shooting with the stock against your right shoulder, keep your right foot a half step back. (I'm assuming you shoot with your dominant hand)). Believe me, this gives you a crap load of stability, even though it may seem like it does not... It really does work...

A cheek pad on the rifle stock keeps your jaw and cheek bone from feeling like a diseased piece of jello after a day of target shooting. (If you're an auto five owner, i cant stress this detail enough.)

Cabelas, along with other companies, make foam recoiul pad things that sort of strap onto your shoulder for when you target shoot. It's basically a pad that helps absorb some of the recoil. I dont know how well it works, you'd have to ask someone who has actually used one... http://www.cabelas.com - www.cabelas.com

Other stuff.

rednekk98 wrote: If you're like me and not partial to scopes, get a William's apreture(peep) sight. And practice, practice, practice.

I knew I liked you.