Ok before I begin this thread I want to get it clear that I do not hate Tippmann, I do not think they are inaccurate in anyway, are cheap and undurable and are ugly. Yes I have said that but they are not that ugly at all, I see it as they need a little make up to make them hot. Other wise it just looks like a paintball gun rather than a real gun.

****M60E3;Mix between the US Navys LMG and Light MachineGun M60 Versions****

  NOTE: READ WHOLE TUTORIAL BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANY STEPS!    I have a sketch it will help you understand the names of the parts in the tutorial where each part goes etc...

   Ok here is the pic, its a bit unclear and probably would look like any other picture you have seen of  an M60. It looks big and heavy and yeah it really is heavy. Most of the framming body work will be made of steel. Steel is very heavy, so when I begin building this monster I will try to limit the steel to only the parts that will experience the most pressure during actual game play. The body Frame will be added over the current Tippman body frame by using the same screw holes originally manufactured into the marker. The Frame is bassically three split mirrored peices of aluminium and steel. The mid Piece between the top and bottom frame is the shroud that goes along the top of the markers sight grooves and is weld connected to the cage like barrel top cover. That you can say is like the metal shroud for the tippmann flatline. The shroud here connects to the handgrip shell that rest pleasently on the Dye titanium back.The bottom Frame of the marker shell is secured into all four of the top screw holes which shares the top sight screw holes with the middle shroud peice. The very top body frame that has a sight screwed into it is secured nice and snug by the bottom body frame screw holes located at the top of the Bottom frame. Both bottom and top frames should be made of steel. NOTE to mention, The bottom frame is basically covering the whole 98 marker so in this case it  has a slit cut for the moving cock to funtion properly. I drew the opening on the right view to show the viewer what is looks like, otherwise in the real mod there would be no cut on the right side. Another NOTE: Since the shell may extend the width on the Z perspective, using a longer cock handle may be necessary. Such as Lapcos. Ok now we know how to attach the main body frame, how about the stock. The stock is the major downfall of the whole mod. Basically you do not need to add it if you want. It is only adding alot more weight and will increase your immitation on the other players. To install the stock, you must first of course get the parts just as for the Body frame and Hand grip. Lets start with the arm support hold for the End Rifle butt. You will need a split half of a custom designed smithed single peice steel arm or support arm with two holes on both identicle parts to screw heavy screws through. One on the end where the butt would be and one on the start where it will connect to the marker. Add additional holes around the butt zone to ensure reinforced support of the aluminium rifle butt. As well add more holes in both the bottom frame shell and top right of the support arm to ensure reinforcement there as well. As far as designing the Rifle Butt, get a blacksmith or have fun designing an aluminium heavy peice yourself. Ok now the Handle... ok First your gonna need an 18 inch barrel oh any kind. I chose Dyes Titanium because it is very accurate and durable. Make sure the barrel you choose is strong enough to support the weight. Now The handle will be one big peice that is connected to the fore grip screw only. The rest of the support comes from the barrel itself. Ok first your gonna need a more crafted parts to make these unique body part shapes. (Again I am sorry I have no idea how you will get these parts. I am telling you how to make it.) OK so get a handgrip matching the one you see, wait well since the handgrip covers are covering the main support handle, well ok it is a square aluminium box like mantle core of the hand grip that is welded onto a steel beam that fits around the front tip of the original 98 under the shell. The box like shapes you see (refer to picture) covering the fore grip area is, is the steel beam that is halfed on the other side as well. That is all the mantle of the grip. Ok now the groves on the aluminuim box will allow the connecting of the handle covers much like Armotech's M4 designs. The Metal shroud I mentioned earlier is actually that cage like cover you see above the barrel. That has nothing to do with the handgrip. The only resemblence they will have is you have to screw them together in order for the handgrip not to fall down and not be supported. NOTE: you will also need a 1 inch deep screw hole in the center of the box facing the muzzle direction in order to place a 1 inch diamiter aluminium rod that is about 8-10 inches long to give the Gun that second barrel look under the true barrel. After this rod is screwed in nice and tight you will need another peice this time a tube of aluminium. Not too big just a little bigger than that 1 inch circumference in order to slip it over the aluminium rod you just screwed in. Make sure you oil it so there is no frictiion. NOTE: not all of these parts must be aluminium and steel.. I am only uses these two metals to make durabilty last a life time. now to lock it in place you are gonna need something like a scope ring to place over the Dye Barrel, or any barrel you want, to lock the tube against the aluminium box grip. Make sure its tight and won't go anywhere. Now for the main trade mark here for this big monsterous heavy gun upgrade. You add the Bipod and gun sight to the very tip of the Dye Barrel. Oh and since the handgrip occupies the titanium back of the Barrel you won't have to worry about it covering those precious air holes to reduce accuracy. Now Your mods complete. Did I forget something? Oh yea the fore grip. Add that to the bottom of the square aluminium box on the handle grip and You'll be shooting like ScarFace in no time.

Your gonna need a remote for the tank since the bipod can't go any lower. And since you'll be on your stomach most of the time with this monster it will be for the best. Another thing when you tell someone or you make the body frames make sure they fit of course and make sure they are cut in the areas that the elbo occupies. So the elbow can be pressed and flipped down so you won't have to take the mod apart to clean it. Just shove the sqeegee up through the elbow and you'll be just as happy. 

    Good Luck making the mod hope you enjoyed this help. Oh yeah have fun finding the parts lol   In the end it should be extremly heavy I am guessing, But if you drop it you'll break the floor not the gun. But than again to me weight doesn't matter. I can handle it I'd say but some may not want to use more energy holding it than using it.

Comments anyone? Strenghts? Weaknesses?

Firestorm....nice try in giving an idea thats been thought of already.

This is what I was talkin about http://www.rustyspaintballgear.com/rs/catalog/details.asp?ID_Wep=44 - http://www.rustyspaintballgear.com/rs/catalog/details.asp?ID _Wep=44

yeah RPG uses a brass eagle rainmaker.

what would really be cool is too have a 98c with response and build a nice m60 mod around it... it would really out perform.

yes that would be extremly heavy,but man would u get some looks.not a bad rep of an m-60, but alot of people have thought of and tried to build one.theres a guy at my local field that buys brass eagle muarders in the dozens and makes them look alike milltary guns.hes made m-60,m-14s,m-1s,tompsons,mg-42s,ak-47s,m-249s,and anything else u could think of.he also takes sugestions.the prices range from 50 for a m-1 to 250 for an mg-42.they allwork(only semi)and he uses them during games.alot of the field uses his guns cause he sells them right there on the field.they dont weight much.no im not trying to sell them.

-jake

very well said,brihard,as my dad was in vietnam,and it has scared him for life.war is a terible thing to live through,i no this by the things hes told me.please dont combine paintball and war.

-jake