Pro/Carbine barrel will not come out.....
Printed From: Tippmann Paintball
Category: Paintball Equipment
Forum Name: Gun Maintenace and Repair
Forum Description: Important info for keeping your marker in top shape
URL: http://www.tippmannsports.com/forum/wwf77a/forum_posts.asp?TID=131824
Printed Date: 16 May 2025 at 7:23am
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Topic: Pro/Carbine barrel will not come out.....
Posted By: Boydster
Subject: Pro/Carbine barrel will not come out.....
Date Posted: 26 April 2005 at 6:11pm
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It will, however if the shroud is installed, it will not budge at all.
I took the shroud off and it screwed in and unscrewed fine. I then went
to put the shroud on without the barrel, and then went to screw in the
barrel and it would only go in a couple of threads. Took the shroud off
and put the barrel in and then reinstalled the shroud and it all works
good now. My question is: Is this normal? And is it normal for the shroud to move forward and back slightly when it's locked into place? Thanks for the help! Mike. ------------- Video: http://pbvids.gamesxposed.com/files1/RTP.1116548567.wmv - My Automag RT Pro ::: http://boydsters-pics.mypicgallery.com/ - My Gallery ::: |
Replies:
Posted By: clownshooter
Date Posted: 26 April 2005 at 9:26pm
| Please enlighten us about the shroud. I have not seen a shroud on a P/C. Do you possibly mean the front stock? |
Posted By: Boydster
Date Posted: 27 April 2005 at 3:07pm
Shroud...front stock, same difference.
------------- Video: http://pbvids.gamesxposed.com/files1/RTP.1116548567.wmv - My Automag RT Pro ::: http://boydsters-pics.mypicgallery.com/ - My Gallery ::: |
Posted By: individual
Date Posted: 28 April 2005 at 2:40pm
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Could it be that the barrel does not fit through the foregrip, or that the lock down screw(holds the foregrip back, and limits it form coming all the way off) is too tight preventing the barrel to thread in properly.
Other then that....I have no clue Good luck ------------- Pro/Carbine J&J Ceramic 14"-Airtipps RVA Dye stickies-Evil 2x Trigger SL68II Trigger Spring with tensioner-Lighter sear spring Polished Internals-SS screws -In the works- ASA-->VA w/ AA Reg |
Posted By: Boydster
Date Posted: 28 April 2005 at 5:03pm
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First off, individual, how did you polish the internals of the p/c? It's a one piece receiver thing... Anyways, I'll look into the barrel not fitting into the foregrip idea. Now that you mention it, I remember thinking to myself that the front aimer had one side a little higher than the other. Maybe it's not alligned correctly. Whoa, I was just about to say that the foregrip bolt holder on thing was not a possible problem. I completly forgot that with the grip off(the barrel will thread), that bolt is not in place. I'm going to go try unscrewing it right now. I don't know why, but I was imagining the bolt being in place with the grip on and off. Thanks for the tip! I'll let you know what happens. ------------- Video: http://pbvids.gamesxposed.com/files1/RTP.1116548567.wmv - My Automag RT Pro ::: http://boydsters-pics.mypicgallery.com/ - My Gallery ::: |
Posted By: clownshooter
Date Posted: 28 April 2005 at 10:36pm
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That bolt you're referring to Boydster is called the pinch bolt because it locks the barrel in place after you screw the barrel in to keep the barrel from shooting loose. The barrel threads in the receiver have a slit cut down them. When you tighten the pinch bolt it closes the gap of that slit reducing the diameter of the barrel threads and thereby pinching the barrel. The bolt must be completely loose to screw in the barrel. A helpful hint: I screw my barrel in all the way with the pinch bolt loose. I then slowly tighten the pinch bolt until there is just a very slight resistance on the barrel when I try to unscrew it. It works great and I have never had my barrel shoot loose on my P/C or my P/L. This way you don't have to carry an allen wrench with you to loosen the pinch bolt every time you need to remove the barrel (carrying allen wrenches are a no-no in scenario games or tourneys). |
Posted By: clownshooter
Date Posted: 29 April 2005 at 6:18am
| You can polish the internals on a P/C but it is best to separate the upper receiver from the lower and remove the striker, valve and powertube before you start. I have never polished mine and it works just fine. |
Posted By: Boydster
Date Posted: 29 April 2005 at 3:47pm
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yes yes, I'm quite aware that the internals need be removed before polishing anything. I'm just wondering how he did it. The body is not cut in halves like the m98. About the barrel now. I have to say that I like the stock one quite a bit. I swear it shoots straighter than my Ultralite. The stock barrel + Zap Rec series is what I use, and it shoots incredibly straight. Seems strange, the two seemingly worst items shooting darts. Thanks for informing be about the receivers being clamped down. That explains it. I was a bit confused when I had to have the bolt almost spinning loosely to get the barrel unthreaded. It shouldn't have the be that loose. But now that I know about the whole clamping thing, it makes sense. I adjusted it to where I'm barely able to get the barrel out. Any tighter and it's stuck. With the barrel out, I noticed it the same type as the A-5 stock barrel. Just longer. They should have used the same on as the P/C on the A-5, that extra length REALLY adds accuracy. I still can't believe how accurate it's shooting. Thanks for the helps guys. ------------- Video: http://pbvids.gamesxposed.com/files1/RTP.1116548567.wmv - My Automag RT Pro ::: http://boydsters-pics.mypicgallery.com/ - My Gallery ::: |
Posted By: clownshooter
Date Posted: 30 April 2005 at 6:14am
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If you really want to polish the internals of the P/C, you can do it in a very similar method to polishing a stock Tippmann barrel. You need a drill, a section of cleaning rod from a shotgun cleaning kit (that's what I used for the barrel) or a dowel stick that you can lock into the chuck of the drill. Cut a slit into the end of the dowel rod (or use the shotgun cleaning rod with the plastic slotted tip) and put strips of an old towel into the slit untilyou can roll it up and fit it snugly into the barrel or P/C receiver. Coat the outside of the old towel material with some Mother's Mag aluminum polish and put it into the receiver, turn on the drill, and spin the wad on the stick while pushing the rod back and forth in the receiver body. You will lose some polishing media out of the sear slit and bolt handle slot if you don't tape them up or block them off somehow. Personally I wouldn't recommend polishing the inside of the receiver with anything stronger than the Mother's Mag polish. For rough Tippmann barrels, I precede the Mother's Mag polish with a wet sanding using stripps of 1500 grit wet/dry autobody sandpaper followed with another wet sanding of 2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper. You may have known all this stuff, but I posted it just in case. BTW I use my stock P/C barrel (polished) too and it shoots great with most any good paint. It's a little louder than a longer barrel, but it is compact and works great for CQB. |
Posted By: Boydster
Date Posted: 30 April 2005 at 11:32am
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Hey thanks for the tip. I never would of thought of that. I polished my 98c with steel wool by hand... And I think I have everything you listed up there in my garage. I'm going to give the receiver a try with that polishing. However my barrel is just too good the way it is. I don't want to fix an already good thing. Again, thanks for the help. ------------- Video: http://pbvids.gamesxposed.com/files1/RTP.1116548567.wmv - My Automag RT Pro ::: http://boydsters-pics.mypicgallery.com/ - My Gallery ::: |
Posted By: individual
Date Posted: 03 May 2005 at 4:05pm
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What I mean by Polished internals, is the actual internals; bolt, powertube, linkage arm, spring and guide pin, and even the out side of the valve(mostly cause i was bored and said "hey it might help airflow")
You could however polish the inside of the receiver if you wanted, just as Clownshooter said. Enjoy ------------- Pro/Carbine J&J Ceramic 14"-Airtipps RVA Dye stickies-Evil 2x Trigger SL68II Trigger Spring with tensioner-Lighter sear spring Polished Internals-SS screws -In the works- ASA-->VA w/ AA Reg |