also when i look in the hole that the steel braided hose goes in, all i see is a spring....if thats any help

So what is the problem?

His valve is working how it should the way you described it. The "dried paint" is just dried Loctite from the factory. It doesnt affect anything.

Tell me what exactly the problem is.

So how was the air not getting to the gun? Could you hear the little hiss sound when you screwed on the tank? What would happen when you fired?

It sounds like the valve is working correctly. Just to double check that, blow on the hole and push the plunger in. Also blow through the ASA and SS line.

why did he give the marker to you to fix? what was it doing how did he describe the problem to you? the valve is doing what it is suposed to the way you described it

okay, he gave it to me because (and idk who told him this) somehow heard that i kinda know what im doing when it comes to guns..and he didnt know whats wrong with it...he didnt know anything about his gun (i said nice expansion chamber and he said whats an expansion chamber, so yeah he doesnt know much about it) and when i hook up the co2 it hisses like it should, but when i cock it and shoot it just dry fires....so i have no clue whats wrong with it

*edit* when i blow in the asa air doesnt go anywhere...i can get a LITTLE air through but near enough..and when the co2 is hooked up i noticed that it does make a LITTLE hissing sound but not much of one...and i cant figure out where its coming from

Try unscrewing the SS line from the ASA. There could be some blockage in there (Iv seen built up teflon paste and Loctite from the factory).

And make sure the expansion chamber isnt causing the problem as well. Something could have very well come loose in there and blocked it up.

the pic. wouldnt work...but you know that thing inside the powertube, that has the little button thing (i think its called the plunger, but im not for sure, its the thing that rear bolt hits though) on it and has the hole that the steel braided hose screws into and holds the spring that puts pressure against the little button thing (that the rear bolt hits) well, its one of the o rings inside of that thing ( i think)

Im almost certain it has nothing to do with the valve. A tiny leak like that would cause very little to no pressure loss, and the valve would still do somthing even under half the pressure of normal. The only time your valve wouldnt fire at all is if the tank were very very close to being completly empty, or you wernt getting any pressure at all.

Theres only two o-rings in the valve. If any of them were no good you would just get slight leaking, and nothing like your problem.

Im very positive its something in the lines.

vonfeldt7 wrote: okay, i tried some things and the things you told me to do, now it shoots, but co2 shoots out the front, as soon as i hook the co2 up, it just shoots out the front of the gun, it will shoot, but most of the o2 is just comming out the front..and it doesnt hiss..it comes out fast (sounds like a remote when the remote isnt hooked up to the gun)

Sounds to me like there is something blocking the poppet valve from closing. I am going to make a suggestion that may be beyond you ability. Open up the 98. Take out the power chamber/tube. Unscrew the gas line from the valve body. Take the valve out of the power chamber. Inspect it to make sure that the poppet valve, that is the valve at the end of the pin...the pin which the hammer strikes, is free to move. With no gas connected you should be able to push the pin to open the poppet valve with just finger pressure (maybe with a glove on your hand so the pin does not put undue pressure on your finger tip). Look at the other end of the valve body. The brass disk that you see has an "O" ring around its perimeter and the disk should rest flush against a retaining ring that catches in a groove around the inside of the bore of the valve. You should be able to take the eracer end of a pencil and depress this disk. It should move freely against spring pressure for about 1/4" to 3/8". You can look through the gas connection hole and observe the compression of the internal spring and if you push hard enough the disk will move down far enough to be visible through the opening. Look for trash anywhere inside along the bore, around the spring and anyother place you can see.

While this is out and the gas port is open squirt some pneumatic oil into the valve then work the disk end back and forth. Finish by then working the pin valve end back and forth so that oil coats all the parts. Re-connect the gas line to the valve. Hold the braided gas line close to the body of the valve and screw the bottle onto the ASA. Hold the gas line firmly(with a gloved hand) because if there is a leak somewhere in the valve body it may move around under the pressure of the gas escaping. If the valve doesn't hold pressure, replace it. The valve can be overhauled, but it's not an easy task...though it is pretty straight forward. Or have the guy who owns the marker order a new valve from Tippmann (about $30) or from a local Paintball shop.