Ive been doing some work on my pump the past couple of days.  Its coming along nicely and should be completely dried and cured in a week or so.  Here are pics of what Ive been doing to it.  They are pretty much self explanatory.  Ive removed the sight rail, custom painted it, cleaned and lubed the internals (it was a used rental), custom cut and sanded and painted my pump handle.  Now everything is hanging to dry.  All of this work was done by hand using basic tools in the garage.  Hacksaw, metal file, dremmel, elbow grease, paint, time, sweat.  :D.

Ive got a dust black JJ ceramic for it, a 40rd hopper and homemade stock class feeder, a mini 9 oz tank, and a 12g changer.  I will try to put up some more pics of the before and after results when the gun is ready to use and assemble. 

On to the pics.

thanks for the comments guys.  I am letting the finish completely dry enough to reassemble w/o damaging the finish.  It will be about a week or so before its all done and pics of the completed project are up.  I will put a side by side of before and after.  :D.

I bought this gun on Ebay as a used rental.  The fields name was Painted Forest, and it was engraved on the sight rail.  That one of the reasons I milled it off.  It was also engraved on the bottom of the pump handle, and I carved it up too.  I didnt care for the stock pump handle look anyway.  I have not posted pics of it before on this site.  I have them on http://www.pbreview.com - www.pbreview.com in the tippmann forum though w/ the stuff I used to do the work.  It was all pretty much done by hand. 

And here is the before and after pics.  The paint still needs to cure for about a week.  Its still a little soft, but its okay to touch.  I wont be using the gun for over a week, so it will be nice and cured. 

BEFORE

AFTER

I dont want to put anymore money into it.  I made my own stock class feed tube w/ a ball gate on it.  I have a 12g changer and I plan on welding a t stock onto the end of it for stock class play.  Only problem w/ making a vert 12 g changer is that I would have to tap the side of the body and put a 1\8 npt into it to get air to the valve.  I dont want to copy someone elses idea (layman did that phantom looking conversion).  If I wanted to do that much, I wouldve just bought a phantom and saved myself the work and money.   I dont play in stock class tourneys, so I mainly got this to use at the local rec field, since competetion isnt all that great there. 

I think Im done w/ her. 

tippman666 wrote: i dont like it. why did you deface an old school gun?

ya, youre right, I shouldve just left it w/ the "painted forest" etched sight rail, worn stock barrel, rusted screws, dirty internals, and nearly worn off paintjob.  It wouldve looked so much better.    I didnt deface it.  I restored it.  Why the negativity?  If it was going to remain as is, I wouldnt have bought it and cleaned and relubed, and restored the gun at all.   I am preserving oldschool if anything. 

It is still oldschool.  How many pumps w/ a 42 rd hopper do you see at your field? 

Mehs wrote: That looks great, what did you do to paint it?  And how did you get the valve out?

thanks for all the comments guys. 

To get the internals out.  In this order I do:

1.  loosen the barrel screw, pull out the barrel w/ pump rod and front bolt and spring attached to the barrel.  It sticks into the end of the barrel and seals w/ the oring on the front bolt. 

2.  Tap the gun on the palm of my hand until the hammer slides out the front of the gun, set it aside w/ the other internals.

3.  Take an allen key and insert it into the valve cap on the back of the gun.  Unscrew it counterclockwise, set it aside.  The valve spring will fall out easily. 

4.  Use a chopstick, or a pen or pencil (nothing metal as to damage the valve stem), push it from the front of the gun out the back.  Thats how you remove the valve/valve stem/cupseal.  Its all one piece.

Thats it.  That is all the internals the gun has.  You can remove the trigger too if you want, but there is no need to.  Its kinda a pain to get it in and out and get the trigger return spring back in place.

For painting.  I filed it and milled it to my desire, sand the original finish w/o removing it completely.  That acts as a primer.  Stuff paper towels into the holes that you want to keep the paint out of (the back, the front and remove the safety and put paper towel plugs in them as well. 

I used my 12g changer wrapped in tape to hold in my hand and rotate while painting.  I used krylon hammered finish spray paint.  Apply 2-3 Light coats w/in about 5 minutes apart.  Hang dry for 24 hours.  Used a clear coat protective finish to go over the paint in the same fashion as I applied the paint.  2-3 coats, hang dry for 24 hours.  For better results, it should be cured for a week or more.  Start off in hot temps, then move to cooler temps (~75-80F)  And allow to cure for a week or more.  The hard part is not touching the gun after youve painted it. 

thanks guys.  So you found the gun eh on ebay. 

I saw them at the same starting bid and I went ahead and used buy it now to avoid bidding it out w/ someone.  And 50 bucks to me was acceptable. 

I will give you some advice though.  Be prepared to clean that bugger.  Painted Forest must have had the worst on site gun tech.  Disassemble it, wipe it down inside and out, put some pbgun oil on all the seals/moving parts.  Slap it back together.  It will shoot fine. 

You got yourself a great deal.

I thought about that after I already painted it black.  I couldnt find a matching color Fushion plastic paint.  I looked and looked.  I guess it might have been okay to just use the same can as I used on the gun, but I didnt know if it would start chipping eventually.  The Fushion paint is no supposed to chip as it bonds to plastics.  We will see how that goes, and if it does end up chipping anyway, Ill strip it, and paint it the same as the gun.   Nice suggestion.  I like it.