When I was trying to put in my new power tube, I stripped my valve, and the hose won't screw back into my valve. I don't know what to do, I don't really want to fork out the cash for a new one, becuase I live in canada, and after shpping, taxes and everything , it comes to about $80 for one, and I bought my gun for $120,,, so I can't really justify the price.  if anyone has any suggestions on what I can do,,, and how,, would be awsome,,, like what is hte size of tap I would need to rethread the valve. or how to take apart and put back together the vavle... please, help,

help!

starscreamy411 wrote: When I was trying to put in my new power tube, I stripped my valve, and the hose won't screw back into my valve. I don't know what to do, I don't really want to fork out the cash for a new one, because I live in Canada, and after shipping, taxes and everything , it comes to about $80 for one, and I bought my gun for $120,,, so I can't really justify the price.  if anyone has any suggestions on what I can do,,, and how,, would be awesome,,, like what is the size of tap I would need to re-thread the valve. or how to take apart and put back together the vavle... please, help, help!

You can chase the threads with a tap and they may clean up enough to allow the hose to screw in properly. You will have to disassemble the valve. Rather than going into the description of the process again check "active topics" about leaking and leaking valves and you'll find a couple of explanations on how to take it apart.

The thread is 1/8" NPT (tapered pipe thread) do not take the threads deeper as the hose fitting may then go in too far and interfere with the function of the valve. Just clean the treads up with the tap entering the hole at the correct angle.

Be sure to use thread sealant when you re-assemble. Be conservative with the sealant, you don't want a gob to enter the valve and gum up the works. When you re-assemble, give the sealant time to dry before pressurizing the valve. You could use Teflon ribbon dope (tape) but that is not really intended to seal the threads like some of the liquid dope available. With the threads slightly messed up the liquid sealants will do a better job (Loc-Tite blue is one I like).

Teflon tape IS better.

I stripped out the SS line threads on the body before. I cross threaded it. It leaked with teflon tape, so I took out the line again, and tried to re-tap the threads. It "rejuvenated" the threads so they looked mormal, but there was still slits and extra room from where I cross threaded. Tried three layers of T.T., leaked, tried six, leaked, also tried Loctite, filled most of what I destroyed, but it still would hold the pressure completely.

So I bought a new valve body (may bolt threads were stripped too) and transplanted the valve internals.

Im sure Tippmann can send parts up to Canada. Call them and ask for a new valve or valve body. Warrenty will cover it if its active, if not a new valve (with internals) is $30, the body is $16+ shipping.

It would be better to buy a new valve altogether. CVX valve can last a while, but your seals may soon go bad just from age. It would be a lot better to just replace it than ordering specific parts and taking it apart which is hard.

If you order it, buy from Tippmann.

^Pirate^ wrote: I'm thinking about re-tapping mine and screwing cut off screws into it and then the tube just lifts out when I field strip the gun  but the valve won't slide forward when I shoot.

i don't know if that's a good idea any play at all with that valve would cause inconcistant shooting, not to mention slop will only get worse over time the, valve hammering back and forth will elongate the holes very quickly. if you do try it keep a very close eye on the holes.

starscreamy411 wrote: I could almost cry, I just got my Valve, and when putting it in, I tried to line up the holes with my fingers. I pushed it with my thumb and the thread bent, and now I can`t get the hose in............ ARG!!!!!!!!!!! I am going to FREAK OUT!!!!,,, help me!!!!!!!!!

Come on! Suck it up! This is not rocket science, it's plumbing. If you cannot get the fitting on the end of the  braided hose to start into the valve because it is damaged from the previous cross-threading, then pull the hose and swap ends. If you think yourself incapable of getting the damaged end to fit into the ASA (or worried about damage to the ASA) go buy another hose so it will have NEW fittings on both ends. You seem to have little mechanical inclination, this is the chance to learn...you will be better for it. If you intend to advance in paintball, such as attending tournaments, you need to learn your marker inside and out...be able to take it apart and fix it on the spot during that South American International Invitational with the top prize of $200,000, that you'll attend in a couple of years!

Bruce A. Frank wrote: If you cannot get the fitting on the end of the  braided hose to start into the valve because it is damaged from the previous cross-threading, then pull the hose and swap ends. If you think yourself incapable of getting the damaged end to fit into the ASA (or worried about damage to the ASA) go buy another hose so it will have NEW fittings on both ends.

i dont think it the line thats the problem, i think its the valve thread is messed up again..., Just take it to a proshop, or have a friend fix it for ya.

TIPPMANN IS AWSOME. They provided me with great customer service, and I should be able to get my problem fixed really soon. I just need to figure out, how do you install the vavle the best. I am trying to figure out, is there a trick on how you get your valve into the gun. thank you for your help, and you are all wonderful.

except rude people

get the new valve

starscreamy411 wrote: Ì have installed my valve, but when I gas up the gun, I dont`get any power when I shoot. I don`t hear any leaks.

Get a heavier hammer spring.