does anyone have an exploded view of a Pro-Lite

please contact me at mailto:buffaloman90@hotmail.com - buffaloman90@hotmail.com and I can give you a fax #

Been looking for one for a couple weeks and no luck

So, i'm having the same problem, i just got a Pro Lite from a garage sale.  After stripping and cleaning, lubing and reassembling, (i'm the owner of now 7 markers, and maintain all of them) the gun 'farts' and does not recock.  My first thoughts are it could be either the spring is either too tight, or too loose, or there is a problem with the upper valve mechanism, i've had to replace that part in a 98 previously.

After reading, i decided to check my spring length, it is just a shy under 6".  Since you didn't post what the spring "should" ideally measure, i can only assume that this particular spring is not 'too worn.'  After some experimenting, the gun will work properly while i am velocity spiking it by holding it down so the liquid CO2 flows into the gun. This is not an ideal method of play, so i want to make it work at a normal elevation.

Based on my tests i've ruled out the possiblity of the valve being bad, so my attempts now will be to stretch the spring, or compress the spring.  Stretching did not work, as it still needs the spiking to fire properly.  I am now compressing the spring to test my last theory.  Without cutting the spring, this could take a while.

Any input would be appreciated.

http://www.tippmannparts.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.catalog&categoryID=40 - http://www.tippmannparts.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.ca talog&categoryID=40

I think its on this page.

holy cow, that spring is spossed to be 7" long...i may end up trying to stretch it a bit more then...but i don't see how one would manage to mash that thing back into the gun, its got enough resistance at 6.3"....wow

But is that any ideas on if it may be something wrong w/ the main valve mechanism itself. (only working while being spiked)

Thanks for the info so far though!

*edit*

Ummm, yeah, so at 7", this not physically possible, i honestly don't think i will be able to wrangle the spring back into the gun

**edit**

So, i somehow managed to get it in, but it still would not recock, so i started to shorten the spring, this still made no difference in the recocking.  So, now i'm gna have to buy a new spring, and its looking like i'll have to replace the main valve mechanism, which i hope i can still purchase as it says "discontinued".

***edit***

Okay, so i've now (after close inspection of the whole valve mechanism (wow, that thing is not made to come out with any small amount of effort, but it is better than a 98), i discovered that there may be another way of solving my problem.  The valve pin that is on the drive hammer's side seemed rather close in size to the whole it poked through, so i just filed of a section of the pin to allow for more airflow to push the hammer back.  I have to wait till morning to test it, but i have high hopes (crossing my fingers i didn't allow TOO much airflow).

Brand new parts arived today, i instantly installed the new drive spring (after much effort) and the gun will still fart and not recock.

There is one thing that, from the start i dismissed as a design flaw, i'm hear an awful lot of extra scraping when i manually cock the gun, like every single metal piece is rubbing against each other.  But there is no way to avoid this from what i can see of the gun.  everything is where it needs to be, but the rear hammer sounds to be rubbing a good bit, as well as random other parts.

From what i can tell, the drive-spring guide pin is the only thing that guides the rear hammer.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

gee, after reading this entire thread thread three times, why didn't i think of that....maybe i should check that....oh wait, i already did, three times...

i know your used to ppl coming onto this forum that are perty clueless, but i do maintain now 9 guns, only two of which are the same.  I'm a fairly experienced mechanically minded person, who through all my efforts, and observations cannot solve this problem.  If it were as simple as a bent linkage arm, i would not have even looked at replacing ANY parts as i would have straightend it and the gun would have worked, and i never would have posted anything.

I have disassembled this gun (including the main valve body) more than once, and reassembled, trying to see a cause.  The only thing i can see is that this gun is not designed as well (in the rear hammer area) as the 98. But i'm at a loss and frankly fed up and tired of dealing with it.

next?

Yeah, i'm definately not missing that square piece, and i think i replaced the orings on everything when i first took it apart, but i'll go ahead and check again.

I'll check the sear, but i'm really not looking forward to trying to wrangle that drive spring back into place again.... (oddly, now my 98, and Spyder are having the same problem)