pooperscooper wrote: I just got the rufus dawg wicked bolt and powertube in the mail and I installed it and went to test shoot it. It shot fine like 10 times then it started to fire in 2-5 round bursts and I can't figure out whats wrong. Somebody help me.

OK, I read all the other suggestions and your answers. Now let's clarify some points. The marker is actually firing 2 to 5 times or is spitting out 2 to 5 balls with each shot?

I am using the Rufus Dawg  Wicked Bolt with excellent results. The only problems I have run across is on occasion, when using fragile paint, a ball break in the chamber will cause shell fragments to jam the bolt because of the way it has to fit over the prongs of the power tube end. You need to get a handle on this problem before you install the E-Bolt. My marker is as you are intending to build yours: E-Bolt, LPK, Wicked Bolt, HPA and my operation is flawless.

pooperscooper wrote: tigman250 wrote: you can spend all the $$ on a stab. and e-bolt but it won't fix you're problem.....unless you put the valve bolts back in. yes you need both of them. I'm not buying that stuff to fix my problem. I had already ordered that stuff before this problem started. So now I guess I am going to have to find another valve screw. I don't know why it was working before without them, but I'll get them in and try it. Bruce-It will fire like five times, not just shoot out five. I know if it was shooting out five at once it would be my ball detent, but its fine.

Then something is causing the hammer to drop five times. Either the sear is not engageing because the bolt is not being blown back far enough or the sear is rounded off so that it cannot catch the hammer notch.

Now, there could be something about the wicked bolt. Because it has to line up properly as it slids back on the power tube, it is possible that something has jamed in the bolt or tube end that keeps the hammer from reaching full rearward position. I would expect the blow back force of the hammer to overcome that, but it is something to look at.

Another thing to look at is the buffer "O" ring that fits between the hammer and the back cap. I had an "O" ring crack and the ends overlaped causing the effect to be a double thick "O" ring. The hammer would then be stopped sometimes slightly before the sear engaged the notch. 

Something to try: remove the Wicked and replace it with the stock bolt...leave the Wicked power tube in place. If things work normaly then inspect the inside of the Wicked bolt, the back side of the venturi "X" to make sure there is nothing stuck there that is limiting rearward movement...jamming the bolt against the end of the power tube. Also check the notches in the end of the power tube to see that nothing is stuck there. Let me know what you find.

$800 into a Tippmann=

Just my opinion. I would rather have a new gun for that much.

rossy11223 wrote: $800 into a Tippmann= Just my opinion. I would rather have a new gun for that much.

Let's see what I have into mine:

Used 98C (bought off Ebay)..............$60

E-Bolt..........................................$229

LP valve and Volumizer(Ebay)............$40

Wicked Bolt....................................$29

Palmer Stabilizer..............................$59  

HPA (Ebay--88/4500)......................$125

Halo B (Ebay, new)..........................$104

Now I would have bought the HPA  and maybe the Halo even if I'd stayed stock, but I'll still include it at $646.

At $646 I have a marker that shoots with the best electrics on the speedball field and I never fail to get the question "Wow, what is that?" or "Man, I have never seen a Tippmann shot that fast!" In my hands I can lay paint at 11 to 13 bps.

I know the 98C inside and out. I just don't have anything happen to it that I cannot fix in a few minutes. (last session three Angles went down and ended the players play date) I'll see if I can get a picture of the final configuration posted in a few days.

pooperscooper wrote: I'm like that with the 98c too. I can usually fix ANYTHING that happens to them. This was the first time in a LONG time that I haven't been able to fix it on my own.

you can fix anything on it, yet you decide to shoot it without the valve bolts? oh well suit yourself.

schnappi wrote: If you did any trigger mods (pen springs and whatnot) you might want to check them...  Sounds like the sear isn't engaging the bolt after each shot.  On occasion.

This doesn't apply to PS's 98C yet but once the E-Bolt is installed the trigger can operate with no return spring at all. The electric switch arm provides the needed return pressure. BUT, with no spring the trigger is TOO sensitive. You can fire the marker by just shaking it hard.

In mine I have used the ball point spring method to lighten the pull. Let me say that using the pen spring has no value until you switch to an electric trigger. In the mechanical marker the lightness of the pen spring is completely overwhelmed by the spring that keeps the sear engaged. With the electric trigger the lighter the pen spring the easier it is to walk the double trigger. You are not really pulling the trigger, it is more like drumming your fingers on a desk top. And get used to going through three pods per speedball game until you get past the power trip that 13 bps in YOUR hands gives to you.

periscope wrote: Yes. I tried it without them and it worked fine for like 6 months. My power tube is what was messing it up. I think its gotten pretty well fixed over time by the front bolt rubbing on it. I know you need the valve screws on most guns, but there is something about mine that allows it to work without them. I think later I will fill in the holes for them with JB weld or something so I don't have to worry about them falling out/coming loose.

OK, let's talk about this a bit. There is a shoulder in the marker body that stops the valve and power tube from moving forward each time the hammer strikes. But if the screws are not installed holding the valve body to the receiver the power tube on which the front bolt slides does not stay centered in the action...which may cause the bolt to bind and not cycle properly. Also the hammering effect of the valve compressing the plastic power tube against the shoulder may damage and distort the alignment of the tube through the bolt. Also that missing screw allows a lot of gas to escape through the screw holes because the valve is not held tightly against the inside of the power tube.  I actually use sealing compounds between the valve and the inside of the ower tube to really prevent leakage. I do the same around the hose fitting  where it screws into the valve. You need to replace that stripped screw.

Your valve bolts were the problem. It worked fine with a STOCK powertube that was already worn down from flopping around. SO, you had to wear off your new powertube to get it to work.

Actual solution- Valve bolts.

Your solution- Smash powertube until it worked.

GET VALVE BOLTS IN THERE. It may work fine at first, but it WILL render your gun useless for play. Trust me, this happened to me. Your velocity will go 280fps-190fps-60fps-0fps-recock it-repeat pattern in a pattern like that. It sux a lot.

No, I actualy didnt. It just looks like I did.

Tippmann engineers designed the gun, and they put valve bolts in there because during intense firing it will move. The vibration from recoil will cause the valve to shake- not like a earthquake, but a small enough amount to cause problems. Your rear bolt HAD trouble sliding back into the powertube once it began to vibrate. You just kept shooting it until the bolt deformed the powertube for it to fit.

Your gun is a mechanical device- there is no magical reason it liked the stock internals, it was because it was adjusted and worn to work with one bolt.