Custom Paintjob FAQ
Printed From: Tippmann Paintball
Category: Paintball Equipment
Forum Name: Upgrades and Customizing
Forum Description: Trick it out!
URL: http://www.tippmannsports.com/forum/wwf77a/forum_posts.asp?TID=141569
Printed Date: 19 April 2024 at 5:26pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.04 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Custom Paintjob FAQ
Posted By: Desert Wookie
Subject: Custom Paintjob FAQ
Date Posted: 11 September 2005 at 2:16pm
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1.) More time than money (Ghetto) 2.) Middle of the road. 2.) More money than time. (Pimped) Shopping List Ghetto Materials $20 Good paint from hardware store. $13 /10 sheets Frisket low tack adhesive $4 Xacto blade Subtotal ~$37 Middle of the road $20 Good paint from hardware store. $20 Digital Stencil from http://tacticalcamo.com/ - my site $4 Xacto Blade. Subtotal ~$50 Pimped Materials. Purchase a paint kit from Lauer Custom Weaponry. $98 Desert MirageFlage Stencil plus 4 bottles of paint $30 Add in a level II airbrush kit $15 Shipping Subtotal: ~$145 Other Materials required. $5 Denatured Alcohol $5 M.E.K paint stripper/cleaner or Jasco Paintstripper (thanks to Malevolanet_frog for the jasco tip) $5 3m Blue Paint Masking tape. This masking tape is low tack so it won’t peel the paint underneath when you remove it. $3 Wet/Dry fine sanding sponge Subtotal: ~$18 Optional Materials: Painting jig to hold the weapon. I simply dropped a chain from the ceiling with a hook on the end to hold the weapon Sandpaper for metal (for anodized parts) Understanding Wife (soon to be painting widow) Lint free towels for cleaning Ghetto: Creating a Stencil. Go to http://tacticalcamo.com/MARPAT/digi.php - my site and generate a stencil. Some sample settings. Color Type: Stencil B&W Paper Size: 8.5x11 Pixel Size: 13 (this will yield ~1/8" squares when printed) Quantity: 75 Drift: 1 Choose Digi for the pattern. Click submit. If you don’t like what you see hit F5 to reload the page. Experiment with the values; you are doing a custom paint job after all. Try to generate as much random patterns on page that you can. You will be cutting out each one separately. Here is an example:  Next print the stencil to a laser printer. I put my low tack stencil plastic in the manual bypass tray. Make sure it prints the image on the plastic side, not the paper side. Please be careful, some printers will not like this and I don’t want to get you in trouble with your IT department. Below are my settings on an old HP5000 LaserJet. I set it for manual feed tray and set the paper to “transparency”.  Start cutting out the stencils. I try to keep the blade touching at all times so that I don’t have small hanging chads. FOR CRYING OUT LOUD, take your time. Sloppy work here is just plain inexcusable. You want a crisp sharp edge, nice 90’ angles and such. Sloppy cuts will yield a crappy finish. Patience young padowan. Remember, you have more TIME than money ghetto dawg! (Make sure to not touch the tacky side of the stencils with your fingers, use your xacto blade to lift and set the stencil. The oils from your fingers will inhibit the stencil from sticking which will make your paint bleed under when you hit it with a blast from your spray can.) TIP: When doing other camo style you actually want that feathered look. In those cases make all the edges less sticky by touching them with your fingers. ------------- http://tacticalcamo.com - Custom Duracoat Camouflage and Stencils |
Replies:
Posted By: Desert Wookie
Date Posted: 11 September 2005 at 2:16pm
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The Painting Process Step One: Cleaning Clean your marker and clean it damn good. Failure to do so will cause immense emotional scarring. Use latex gloves. This will protect your digits and also keep you from depositing oils on the soon to be painted weapon. Decide whether or not you want to strip the paint off of your old marker. M.E.K. will peel it all off. When working with chemicals of any sort, its generally a good idea to test it on a small surface (Say the bottom of your marker) to see how it reacts. Same with your hopper. I had no problems with M.E.K on my Model-98, other than the fact that it wanted to take off the original factory paintjob. I actually didn’t want this because it would entail a lot more scrubbing work. So after a quick cleaning with M.E.K. I rinsed it with water and wiped with alcohol. MEK and paint strippers are nasty chemicals to work with. utilize proper protective equipment and procedures. Gloves, Paint respirator and work in a well ventilated area. DO NOT TAKE CHANCES WITH YOUR HEALTH! Step Two: Sanding Take your sanding sponge, get it moist and scuff any smooth plastic areas, like your hopper. This will give the paint something to bite in to. Use a fine grit so that you don’t have any gouges. Rinse off any plastic dust. My first attempt, at the very end when I pulled the stencil, voila, all the paint came off! So do it right the first time, lightly sand the plastic and make sure its clean when you are finished. If you have any anodized aluminum or any other polished metal, you will need to sand it a bit for the paint to bite. (May require a special aluminium-oxide sand paper for metal surfaces (FINE GRIT or better). I tried steel wool to no real effect. Mask off any areas you do not want paint to get into to. Like say, your open bolts, hopper feed tubes, etc... I disassembled my marker, removed the bolt, placed masking tape inside to protect the internals. Apply the basecoat. This should be done slowly, and evenly. It is better to apply 5 light coats than 1 heavy dripping coat. Initiate the spray before you reach your marker, that way you have a nice fine mist hitting your gun. If you start right above your marker you risk globs and splotches. Not good. Not good at all young jedi. Experiment with distances. If you spray from too far back, the paint particles will glob together making a nasty orange peel looking finish. For my airbrush 3 inches seemed good.  Basecoat of Urban White Let it dry per the manufacturers instructions. Longer is better. TIP: Using the oven In general, yes you can cure your parts in a 100 degree over for 20mins - 1 hour. But be careful, more residential ovens swing wildly. For protection, stick a rolled up towel in the door to prop it open. Start placing stencils with the assistance of your xacto blade. Do not press them down until you are happy with the position. Remember, with Digital camo you want to make sure the pattern runs parallel/perpendicular to your marker. Once you are happy, press them down to make sure they stick. TIP: Dont be afraid to cut your stencils up if they seem to large or too wide.  Urban White w/ Stencils applied. Note: Everywhere you place a stencil on the basecoat will show through all subsequent layers. I tend to use smaller stencils on the basecoat so that I dont overwhelm the following layers. Apply the next lightest color. Let it dry. Repeat until you are done.  Snow Gray w/ Stencils Applied After the weapon is dry, remove all the templates.  Now if you want you can place your female templates on the weapon now. I tend to use these to cover up any areas where I feel the pattern is to large or to cover up areas where the paint peeled off with the stencil. It happens. You may want to follow up with a matte clear coat for added durability. Plus it will even out the sheen of the different paints. One final thought... Spray cans waste so much paint. I really prefer a small airbrush for this type of work. Some more completed samples:     Feel free to contact me if you have any questions. [email]info@tacticalcamo.com[/email] ------------- http://tacticalcamo.com - Custom Duracoat Camouflage and Stencils |
Posted By: Desert Wookie
Date Posted: 11 September 2005 at 2:17pm
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<I copied this tiger-stripe how-to from Wookie's other thread. Enjoy.> <Rambino> (I didnt have a marker to paint, so I used 1 half of a ruger 10-22 bullpup stock) Howto: Paint Your Weapon Tigerstripe Style By Wookie  Materials
Start by cleaning and preping your weapon. Please see my 'Howto Paint your marker Digital style' for more info. Apply the basecoat It can either be green or black. I went with green, which made the final product more black. (as you will see) Remember to apply a nice thin coat. You want just enough paint to color it, not drown it.  TIP: If you spray too close you will get drips. If you spray too far it will glob in the air and give you the dreaded 'orange peel' effect. Allow it to dry. You can bake it to speed things along if you wish. Dont let your oven get above 110F. (put a towel in the door to prop it open) Taping Tear long strips of blue painters tape and apply it to your weapon. (make sure ant tear both sides (my photo only shows 1 side torn) Lay out the strips along the length of your weapon.   Spray it with the black spraypaint (or green if you used the black as your basecoat. Allow it to dry.  More Taping Now apply the 3m tape along the edge of your previously laid tape. You want small little lines of tan; Less is more at this stage. I actually used an airbrush to get in close, you maybe not be able to do that with a spray can, so you may want to mask off more than I showed in this picture.   Allow it to dry. UnTaping Pull the tape off by tugging it against itself. This will help 'cut' the paint and reduce the chances of paint peeling off with the tape.  Enjoy, Wookie. ------------- http://tacticalcamo.com - Custom Duracoat Camouflage and Stencils |
Posted By: Desert Wookie
Date Posted: 12 September 2005 at 9:25pm
When I did the '98 in this howto, i hand sanded everthing I could. The grips were impossible to sand. Over time the paint wore down some. In later paintjobs, i sandblasted everything and the paint has not worn at all. I also followed the final coat w/ Duracoat Clear (for added protection). The sandblasting has really helped w/ the Hoppers, since the plastic can be a bear to get paint to stick to... Thanks for the comments guys...Makes me want to paint more... :) ------------- http://tacticalcamo.com - Custom Duracoat Camouflage and Stencils |
FyreFly wrote:Posted By: Desert Wookie
Date Posted: 13 September 2005 at 9:46pm
Yeppers, that was me...
Yes, just punch in a smaller number in the Pixel textbox. It defaults to 13...
Thats a real S&W Model 99. They worked w/ walther. The bottom half is walther, the top is Smith. She's my baby right now... |
Posted By: Desert Wookie
Date Posted: 13 September 2005 at 9:46pm
Yep, did 'em all... |
Posted By: Desert Wookie
Date Posted: 14 September 2005 at 11:40am
its vinyl stencil material from LCW. But i did use 3m painters tape for the woodland/predator A5....Great stuff. Cheap too. :) ------------- http://tacticalcamo.com - Custom Duracoat Camouflage and Stencils |
Posted By: Desert Wookie
Date Posted: 19 September 2005 at 8:00pm
I love that little pistol. It comes w/ a bunch of 'backstraps' that you can insert into the grip to adjust the width of the pistol. For me, this is a big deal, I have big paws, and the standard 1911 frame is too small for me. The glocks felt boxy. The SW99 was just right. :) It has a 2-stage trigger so when you have the time you can really aim well. All in all, my most favorite pistol yet... :) ------------- http://tacticalcamo.com - Custom Duracoat Camouflage and Stencils |
Posted By: Desert Wookie
Date Posted: 19 September 2005 at 8:05pm
For the Model 98 in the HOWTO i used LCW's level 2 airbrush kit, which is basicly a single action pasche siphon feed airbrush (cheap, but useable). I already had an air compressor so I didnt use the canned air that comes with the kit. The other markers were painted using a gravity fed HVLP airgrun w/ a 3oz cup. My next one will be painted using a combination of an Iwata HP-CS and the HVLP Airgun. Waiting on a new heavy duty air compressor for my sandblaster. As for keeping the paint out of the barrel, I rolled a scrap of cotton shirt around a wooden dowel and stuck it in the barrel. Workes well. :) ------------- http://tacticalcamo.com - Custom Duracoat Camouflage and Stencils |
Posted By: Desert Wookie
Date Posted: 01 October 2005 at 9:41pm
Can, you must....yess....  ------------- http://tacticalcamo.com - Custom Duracoat Camouflage and Stencils |
Posted By: Desert Wookie
Date Posted: 23 October 2005 at 10:02pm
For stenciling Material? I think the tape has too strong of a glue. You would risk pulling off the paint underneat the tape. 3M painters tape is cheap and available at most hardware stores. ------------- http://tacticalcamo.com - Custom Duracoat Camouflage and Stencils |
Posted By: Desert Wookie
Date Posted: 24 October 2005 at 9:31am
Cool, i hope they post pics of it...I'm always amazed when I see what other people do...One guy on the A5OG used the stencil and cut out some mossy oak stickers. Quite ingenious use of the stencil...  ------------- http://tacticalcamo.com - Custom Duracoat Camouflage and Stencils |
Posted By: Glock18
Date Posted: 08 November 2005 at 9:54pm
sup wookie? im only 12 so ill try on airsoft gun first. can i use spray paint?
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Posted By: Desert Wookie
Date Posted: 12 November 2005 at 9:36am
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Yes you can use spraypaint. It will show scratches and chipping overtime, but it is a nice cost effective option.
------------- http://tacticalcamo.com - Custom Duracoat Camouflage and Stencils |
Posted By: Desert Wookie
Date Posted: 25 November 2005 at 5:48pm
   ------------- http://tacticalcamo.com - Custom Duracoat Camouflage and Stencils |
Posted By: County
Date Posted: 29 November 2005 at 7:14pm
Here's Torso Bob with his Digital Camo head saver.
------------- http://www.EZOfficePool.com - Free NXL and NPPL Office Pools, pw: 'gogged' http://www.CountySports.com/shop/news.php - Newsletter - Coupons |
Posted By: Glock18
Date Posted: 04 December 2005 at 7:07pm
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go to this site and it has lots of cool crap, even digital vynl sheets http://shopping.netsuite.com/opsgear - http://shopping.netsuite.com/opsgear |
Posted By: Desert Wookie
Date Posted: 04 December 2005 at 8:32pm
Have you used them? I heard that some of those camo stickers were crap. I dunno what brand the folks were talkin' about tho. ------------- http://tacticalcamo.com - Custom Duracoat Camouflage and Stencils |
Posted By: jw1961
Date Posted: 31 December 2005 at 9:08pm
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Posted By: kuhndog599
Date Posted: 16 February 2006 at 5:53pm
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man my paintjob is screwed up. its like flaking off. and i used a whole can of clearcoat. i didnt do a real good job on my digi camo so i'm probably just going to make it flat black with that drybrushing thing or just olive drab. which would look best with a stock and mag kit. its supposed to look like a sig rifle. i'm selling the handguard because its plastic and cracking like crazy. ( i ran into a tree the last time we were playing and the front site snapped off). i want to buy my friends flatline but he says no because he lost the adapter in his room and is too lazy to look for it. what an idiot it would be a great way for him to make some money. so yeah which paintjob? ------------- model 98 - homemade handguard solid stock - opsgear mag polished internals homemade sling - paintjob operator barrel progressive barrel opsgear mag - stock |
Posted By: officerfarva_13
Date Posted: 22 February 2006 at 10:05am
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any paintjobs that are really cool instead of a camo looking gun. i am a speed ball player so camo does not help im my situation but they do look good just i want to see something that actually jumps out at me
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Posted By: Desert Wookie
Date Posted: 10 March 2006 at 9:30pm
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pretty much just do camo, but who knows, maybe in the future I'll got a ll crazy and make a flashy pattern. :)
------------- http://tacticalcamo.com - Custom Duracoat Camouflage and Stencils |
Posted By: FyreFly
Date Posted: 27 March 2006 at 11:55pm
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My brother's Candy Apple Green 98C is so beautiful!! It looks amazing. http://www.tippmann.com/forum/wwf77a/forum_posts.asp?TID=152517&PN=1 - Go here to check out pics of it. ------------- 
System X NME LE WGP Orracle Cocker Tippmann A-5 E-Grip & LPK Tippmann 98C Flatline & LPK |
Posted By: the_skdster
Date Posted: 28 March 2006 at 2:03am
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pic it up! ------------- ~OTKer_4_Life~ The Gear A-5 ShinyInternals E-Grip w/WAS APEX PalmersStabilizer MP5CollapsableStock RemoteLine 42mmRedDotSight TacCap WarsensorTacticalVest |
Posted By: slasherdan
Date Posted: 11 April 2006 at 5:19pm
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So what is the method of painting the barrel with out getting the insides ...... Dirty???? ------------- Hauptmann Kurt "SlasherDan" Benson 6th Fallschirmjager-Regiment, Pionere.Kompanie.1 |
Posted By: kevinthegreat
Date Posted: 12 April 2006 at 5:05pm
I would stuff it with something so that the paint wouldn't have a chance to touch the inside. something newspaper. just make sure you can get it out. ------------- Tippmann A-5 Polished internals 4.2 inch rifled barrel Destroyed OD paintjob Love |
Posted By: the_skdster
Date Posted: 14 April 2006 at 12:44am
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or just give your tippmann a minor re-polishing of the internals.  ------------- ~OTKer_4_Life~ The Gear A-5 ShinyInternals E-Grip w/WAS APEX PalmersStabilizer MP5CollapsableStock RemoteLine 42mmRedDotSight TacCap WarsensorTacticalVest |
Posted By: pbhalo
Date Posted: 04 May 2006 at 6:25pm
you could also just take it apart and paint the body ------------- english 101 remedial kick ass |
Posted By: mess cow
Date Posted: 07 May 2006 at 10:59pm
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paint it white ------------- http://www.specialopspaintball.com/brigade/member_view.asp?id=49631"> 
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Posted By: soapyman
Date Posted: 19 May 2006 at 12:58am
| hey im thinking of painting my 98 with duracoat but i don't want to take my gun apart. Does anyone have a suggestion on what i should do. |
Posted By: thornygravy
Date Posted: 27 May 2006 at 7:01am
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you have to take your gun part... well u dont have to but it will look like **edited** ------------- -Tippy 98c -Polished Interns. -RD Double Trig. -5'' Drop -j+j ceram 14'' -12v revy x-board -SmartParts Grips -Pen Spring Mod -Milled Rear Sight -Filled Front Grip -Blue Paint job |
Posted By: Gasdrinker
Date Posted: 15 June 2006 at 2:10pm
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Would you recommend painting the A5 Flatline? I think it has a factory clear coat and I would have to take off a lot of paint.
------------- Tippmann A-5/Zeus G1 E-Grip /w APE board QEV Vortex Flatline Dye UL 14 in. R5 Hopper Lapco offset rail with Tac Light/Scope OpsGear MP5 Sliding Stock OpsGear MP5 Mag kit SpecOps Front grip |
Posted By: chaloopy
Date Posted: 16 June 2006 at 8:19am
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hey do you have a fleck gun you could show because thats the pattern im trying to find how to do and i cant find it ------------- Tippmann 98 Custom Pro Polished Internals J & J 12" Ceramic Double Trigger Digial woodland camo reciever Empire Reloader B |
Posted By: KoolKidsKlan
Date Posted: 18 June 2006 at 4:41pm
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I want to do a Pink-Silver spraypaint fade on my 98. How would I do this with spray paint? I have the spray paint and after I mill everything off with a filer what do I do? ------------- 
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Posted By: FyreFly
Date Posted: 18 June 2006 at 11:31pm
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Fade: After you've completely prep'd your recievers, paint them completely end to end with the lighter of the two colors. Once your satisfied and its completely dry use the darker color, start painting one end and as you get to the middle keep pulling the spray can farther away from the recievers, so you get less and less paint on them. That's it. You might want to practice on something first to get the technique down. -------------
System X NME LE WGP Orracle Cocker Tippmann A-5 E-Grip & LPK Tippmann 98C Flatline & LPK |
Posted By: KoolKidsKlan
Date Posted: 20 June 2006 at 12:12am
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Does it work well with spray paint? I'm just worried about putting the marker back together, and retaping the hoses right. -------------
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Posted By: FyreFly
Date Posted: 20 June 2006 at 2:27pm
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Does taping hoses have anything to do with painting a marker?
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System X NME LE WGP Orracle Cocker Tippmann A-5 E-Grip & LPK Tippmann 98C Flatline & LPK |
Posted By: madcardisease
Date Posted: 22 June 2006 at 11:27pm
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A fade job might not work too good with rattle cans, unless you could find some really fine nozzles to put on your cans to help atomize the paint coming out. Also with painting plastic parts you should prep them with a 600-800 grit wet, clean with a automotive plastic prep cleaner, or even denatured alcohol to take off any mold release agents, and then use a plastic adhesion promoter. You can find adhesion promoter in a rattler now, so look at your local auto paint dealer or online at Autobodydepot.com. ------------- Custom Pro 48/3000,evil bottom Cyclone/ricochet Super R/T LPK AKA Sidewinder/cp guage Shocktech superfly 14" j&j Polished int. Pen spring mod Hybrid girls |
Posted By: Desert Wookie
Date Posted: 25 June 2006 at 9:15pm
Spiffy advice, thanks :) ------------- http://tacticalcamo.com - Custom Duracoat Camouflage and Stencils |
Posted By: zbusse
Date Posted: 14 July 2006 at 12:30am
| i'ld like to paint my a-5 white. can i do this with spraypaint if i fallow all the other steps? |
Posted By: Ghost-Rider
Date Posted: 14 July 2006 at 4:44pm
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Woa zbusse i got it ! id love to paint my gun winter camo ! anyone ever done it please post pics my dads building a fal ( real gun ) so he bought a airbrushing kit so i figured i could take advantage of it. ------------- 
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Posted By: Chubby
Date Posted: 25 July 2006 at 9:57pm
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when you are painting a 98c, do you actually have to REALLY take the entire gun apart or can you just remove those 6 primary screws, remove the shell and paint that. then flip the gun over and do that side of the gun. or is their a chance of paint getting in the gun and damaging it? oh and if you are looking for a sweet paintjob, you can get some of that Duplicolor Mirage stuff. they have a limited amound of colors but your gun will be freakin sweet with some of that. i dont want it cuz they dont have a color combination that intrests me but go to duplicolor website and check it out. |
Posted By: little devil
Date Posted: 26 July 2006 at 3:05pm
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I just painted my grip and hopper for my a-5. I did it camo style, the tape way and layered it with 5 colors.I think it looks pretty sweet, and i going to do my flatline soon.But note, you have to let the paint set and cure before applying more tape and layering it up. this can easily take up to a day for the paint to be totally dry before you apply anymore tape or paint. I just dont want to commit to my reciever and paint it cause i wouldnt be able to play for a week or so. |
Posted By: Tippmann_playa
Date Posted: 02 September 2006 at 2:19am
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sick ------------- Tippmann A-5 APE Rampage 68/3000(remote) Collapsible Carbine Stock JCS Double Finger Flatline w/ Battle Shroud 14' Progressive Rifled Squeeshies Lightning Rod Vortex Mod Sly Profit EMRD |
Posted By: 98Ghillie
Date Posted: 02 September 2006 at 9:36pm
| I like the eagle on your gun wookie |
Posted By: darkandstormy_
Date Posted: 11 October 2006 at 9:40pm
| when painting your gun how long can you stick it in the oven after its done to make the paint stay on better.. and do i spry the clear coat before i bake it or after??????? |
Posted By: Desert Wookie
Date Posted: 18 November 2006 at 10:35am
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Bake for 1 hour at a low temp (like ~100F) Use a thermometer; stick a towel in the door to prop it open. Watch it closely. Spay clearcoat before you bake. G'luck ------------- http://tacticalcamo.com - Custom Duracoat Camouflage and Stencils |
Posted By: LtCold Steel
Date Posted: 02 December 2006 at 11:02am
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I am wanting to paint all of my guns, a 98, A-5 and a Spyder Xtra,
My Spyder Xtra is that shiny blue and silver, so i need to sand all on the metal parts of the Spyder to get paint to stick? |
Posted By: pdwhat
Date Posted: 06 December 2006 at 6:50pm
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yeah so I'm pretty sure that A-5 with the white camo is the nicest paintjob on a gun I have ever seen, you did an amazing job. ------------- 98 custom car stock handle/ sight |
Posted By: Desert Wookie
Date Posted: 28 January 2007 at 9:24pm
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Playing around with a pattern. So the white you see is my stencil. Whats kinda neet is when I invert the pic, it looks spiffy. snow camo, neet huh? I'll post the finished stuff in about a week or so :)   ------------- http://tacticalcamo.com - Custom Duracoat Camouflage and Stencils |
Posted By: Black_Shadow
Date Posted: 21 February 2007 at 10:16am
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i plan to do a paintjob on my new 98c, but im not sure whether to go with a metallic white, or some silver to yellow or gold or red fade one of the best things to use is automotive paint, its relatively cheap and looks great... i may not be one for the camo paintjob, but still cool use of stencils... Note: the best way to do a fade is to spray the brightest/shiniest color first, then spray the other color as you move it away from your marker, it turns out great after 3-4 light coats of gloss... also theres a cool technique i came up with to put pinstripes on your marker, ill test it out first, but you can be sure ill cover it in my paintjob post... great job wookie! ------------- 98CP ACT R/T J&J Ceramic 14" Egg II w Z-Board GTA Inline X-Chamber NCStar Red-Dot Pen Spring Mod Trigger Stops Polished Internals Dye Sticky Grip 20oz Co2 w On/Off Next Up: Spimmy |
Posted By: ownagewith98
Date Posted: 14 June 2007 at 10:35pm
| i like ur digi camo with the black grey and white- ur an awesome painter, were u live maybe if ur near me i could get u to paint my gun lol (jk) |
Posted By: thghst
Date Posted: 09 July 2007 at 4:46am
 sweet im goign to try this ------------- hmmm....so how do you want to do this? on top or bottom? |
Posted By: 98customdude98
Date Posted: 26 July 2007 at 1:10pm
| if i jst wanted to paint the gun nothing else, what should i use and how should i do it. |
Posted By: Desert Wookie
Date Posted: 04 August 2007 at 5:23pm
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If you have an airbrush, duracoat is a dandy paint that will last a very long time. If you are going the spraycan route, use soem brownells alumahyde or krylon fusion. Do the standard cleaning and priming before you apply the paint. G'luck ------------- http://tacticalcamo.com - Custom Duracoat Camouflage and Stencils |
Posted By: xXDemonXx
Date Posted: 07 August 2007 at 10:01pm
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im spending most of my money on the gun so for the paintjob im just going
to use painters tape ripped upand some of my model spray paint. will that do and also i have a A-5 and i like Tippmann graphic should i tape off the whole part or just the lettering and graphics and would i use an xacto to do that and would that cut the gun and ruin the paintjob.... help me im a newb at painting my gun but im pro at painting other players :) in just kinda outa my zone |
Posted By: mickco
Date Posted: 10 August 2007 at 12:27am
| hello i have been thinking about this for a while and i got the extra money to do this now. I was wondering if someone can point me in the direction of a gravity feed airbrush, preferibly one that comes with conpressed air that way i dont have to dig up my air compressor. i dont really want to spend more then $50 on this because im only painting a few guns and a ps3. thanks in advanced. if you live in toronto or the gta (you know who you are) and know of a good store please tell me. i prefer to buy from a store then online |
Posted By: Desert Wookie
Date Posted: 13 August 2007 at 8:49am
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[QUOTE=xXDemonXx] im just going
to use painters tape ripped upand some of my model spray paint. will that do and also i have a A-5 and i like Tippmann graphic should i tape off the whole part or just the lettering and graphics and would i use an xacto to do that and would that cut the gun and ruin the paintjob.../QUOTE] Tape and model paint will be fine. As for the A5 nameplate, I would take a hair dryer and warm it up. Then carefully remove the nameplate. Paint your gun and glue it back in place. My $.02 ------------- http://tacticalcamo.com - Custom Duracoat Camouflage and Stencils |
Posted By: pants500
Date Posted: 21 August 2007 at 3:29am
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Hey guys, i really appreciate these guides, i'm in the process of painting a 98 custom as a project of mine. I found this pretty decent 98 used w/ a 9oz co2, + 2 hoppers for 75 bucks on ebay, and just had to nail it. Currently i'm in the process of sanding, and i should be done by tomarrow. I'll post pics up on the finished product, just thought i'd say thank you to those who made guides. ------------- A-5: E-grip with APE rampage board installed, JCS powertube, JCS rear velocity adjust,JCS Jet click cyclone feed mod, camo graphics kit, freak barrel kit, 4500 psi tank. CCI Phantom |
Posted By: barf
Date Posted: 31 December 2007 at 3:37pm
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my digicam tropical green 98.... did the ghetto method with painters tape.....
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Posted By: Desert Wookie
Date Posted: 02 January 2008 at 4:40pm
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Looks great considering you went the tape route! That must have taken some time.
------------- http://tacticalcamo.com - Custom Duracoat Camouflage and Stencils |
Posted By: ashes
Date Posted: 10 May 2008 at 7:33pm
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Just a couple painting tips.
Oven cleaner, like Easy Off, will eat paint but not plastic. I have used it many times on different types of plastic and plaster. It usually needs to be used twice. Spray the object heavily, let it sit for 15 minutes, scrub it with warm soapy water and a dish scrubber, dry it, and repeat. It doesn't work on baked enamel or powder coating, but works on pretty much any spray paint we use at home. Scotch-Brite (3M) scour pads, which are 4x6 inch (10x15.5cm), 1/4 inch (8mm) thick, and usually dark green, are equivalent to 400 grit sandpaper. They're used in autobody shops for things like radiator grills, and tight spots. They work great for sanding between coats of paint to remove lint that fell on the paint, or to remove the gloss from enamel. I use them dry. Using them with water will make them sand more aggressively. The red ones, if you can find them, are more coarse.. about 300 grit. They're about $3 for 5, and last a very long time. You can sand down an entire car with one of them, and it's still good after. They're good until they fall apart. |
Posted By: Mrwaffles
Date Posted: 14 June 2008 at 8:20pm
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I HAVE extensively looked through this topic. I still however have some questions (in no particular order) Questions I have: -I don’t need reducer unless its humid outside, correct? -What does the hardener do and do I need it? -Do I need a clear coat? -For TruStrip, do I want the aerosol can or a pint (can) of TruStrip? -What is Denatured Alcohol used for? ( to clean parts after paint stripping, trustrip, sanding and then the alcohol I’m guessing?) What kind of chemicals do I want to clean my airbrush with, if any? Will I need anything else to clean my airbrush with? My brother has a 125psi compressor will that work? Anything special that a compressor must have to be able to work? (it’s got a ¼ hose and the advanced spray kit comes with a ¼ hose adapter so I figure it’s good in that aspect) What kind of grit sanding paper do I need for the metal parts? (I know for plastic since madcardisease suggested 600-800 and I figure I will use 800) On lauerweaponry.com I can only purchase the ez airbrush kit and the Advanced Airbrush Kit, I want the advanced, correct? http://www.lauerweaponry.com/index.cfm?ID=1SAB&image=airbushkits.gif&frameset=1 - http://www.lauerweaponry.com/index.cfm?ID=1SAB&image=air bushkits.gif&frameset=1 I should use M.E.K paint stripper/cleaner or Jasco Paintstripper to get strip the paint I currently have on my 98C.Then I should use the TruStrip to clean the gun off after that. Then I sand down everything to prepare for painting. Good so far? Any other steps to prepare the gun I should know about BEFORE I paint the gun? So I’m thinking when I place my order at lauerweaponry I will get: DuraCoat Ultra Flat Tactical Coyote Brown, 4 oz. DuraCoat Ultra Flat Tactical OD Green, 4 oz. DuraCoat Ultra Flat Tactical Dark Earth, 4 oz. DuraCoat Ultra Flat Tactical Black, 4 oz. Advanced Airbrush Kit Other stuff I need (to buy): 3M blue painters tape Wet/Dry fine sanding sponge methyl ethyl keytone (M.E.K.) paint stripper/cleaner or Jasco Paintstripper (which one works better?) Denatured Alcohol Paint respirator DUPLI-COLOR ADHESION PROMOTER (says its good for painting plastic, fiberglass, bumpers and aluminum trim molding) 800 grit wet sandpaper Thing I have, but will need: Laytex gloves Exacto knife
Thanks very much |
Posted By: Nikolai049
Date Posted: 30 June 2008 at 10:28pm
| I prefer camo gun wrap - It's somewhat durable, adaptive and removes without sticking up my gun... |
Posted By: Desert Wookie
Date Posted: 17 September 2008 at 9:27am
My apologies for not replying in a timely fashin; School & work have been keeping me away from the forums for a while now... It is probably too late to answer these for you, but perhaps it will help others who are searching through the thread.
I dont use reducer; I'm not sure exactly when you would use it. But if its related to humidity, then that might be why. We avg about 20% here in New Mexico. Hardener comes with the paint when you buy it. You need it to make it cure. Clearcoat adds another layer of "clear" paint on top; It will give you added protection. I have not used TruStrip. I use Alcohol & MEK for degreasing/ cleaning.
I use MEK to flush the system. Duracoat contains MEK in it, so using MEKfor a cleaner will help break up the junk inside.
Thats plenty fine. You might need one of those dessicant modules that goes inline. It removes oil/water that might be in the line.
I use a sandblaster but the grit you selected seems appropriate. I like the Al-Ox paper best.
The adv airbrush will do the trick. I use Jasco first. Wash with soap & water. Sand. Rinse with Alcohol. The only thing to be aware of is that you need a good respirator mask and good ventilation. MEK/Duracoat is some bad stuff. Folks nickname Methyl Ethyl Ketone, Methyl Ethyl Death. Dont skimp on this. Also get a good pair of thick chemical gloves. ------------- http://tacticalcamo.com - Custom Duracoat Camouflage and Stencils |
Posted By: Epic Otter
Date Posted: 27 December 2008 at 8:07pm
| i hate barging into the middle of a thread, but i'm looking to paint my Alpha black w/ e trigger, and kinda curious about painting it. How well will the plastic take the paint, or any recommendations? |
Posted By: paintballplaya7
Date Posted: 05 January 2009 at 12:39am
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use the krylon special camo paint. good for plastic. it may take a little extra paint compared to metal. make sure to due light layers, don't glob it ------------- *Custom Pro *Cyclone feed *X7 hopper *M16 Carry Handle *BT 16 Apex Barrel *Car Stock *remote *camo paint job *Single point sling *JT Full Coverage Camo *realtree RAP4 vest |
Posted By: robo4eva
Date Posted: 10 January 2009 at 7:09pm
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if i wanted to paint a hopper, would it be any easier, this is too challenging,lol pm me ------------- You pop your head up and you see a paintball flying through the air and SPLAT! YOUR OUT! |
Posted By: Malolo
Date Posted: 19 May 2009 at 10:23pm
Was going to do digi camo, but then got tired of making stencils, so I went with tiger stripe, and decided to stop at the hopper and clip. But I really like the olive drab colour. |
Posted By: ShotFromAfar
Date Posted: 16 July 2009 at 9:01pm
Could you perhaps tell me what build you have there? its an A-5 no doubt but what attatchments?cool gun btw -------------  
You need some wine for that stunt |
Posted By: diablomotoracing
Date Posted: 20 October 2009 at 1:04am
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i'm good with all programs to get digi temps but i dont want to look like a show off when i'm on the field.... What do you think.... I'm not a "Pimped-Out" kind of guy... lol Any ideas.... ------------- Don't hate me |
Posted By: mrspeeddemon
Date Posted: 16 May 2010 at 12:23am
 
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Posted By: mrspeeddemon
Date Posted: 16 May 2010 at 12:24am
| let me know what you guys think, I'm new to the forum |
Posted By: unclebob
Date Posted: 18 May 2010 at 3:29pm
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sweet thread just checking it out and now thinking bout painting my x7 so, i just scanned through the thread and what i get is take the gun apart, sand it down to roughen the finish, apply the stencils and paint i'll probably use spray paint unless i can find a decent airbrush and borrow buddies compressor, then let sit, how long should it sit before adding the next layer of paint cause i dont want my gun to be all sticky in the end is there a special kind of paint that should be used, ive taken it apart before so i have no problem doing that since it seems some people are to scared to take theirs apart and they wont be able to put it back together, |
Posted By: ICEMANN
Date Posted: 31 May 2010 at 12:40pm
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I LOVE THIS THREAD, THE GUNS, THE PAINT-JOBS!!!!!!
It's freakin' awesome. I have a Tippmann 98C Platinum and got a Realtree camo kit for it, but as it turns out, it was for a regular 98C....WELL CRAP! Time for new ideas!
So, now I have plenty of ideas on what to do to camo it up. BTW, while I'm thinking about it, does anybody on here have some gun ghillie techniques??
I was also wanting to tell you guys that are planning on using spray paint, At Wal-mart, there is actually like four different camo colors (SUPER-FLAT) made by Rust-O-Leum and it's a fairly decent price for them.
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Posted By: ICEMANN
Date Posted: 31 May 2010 at 12:45pm
| I was too, and I did take mine apart, and....of course I forgot how to put them back together...three Viewloaders...Triad, Lancer, And High Voltage...then I got on Tech Support on thir website and they fortunately had exploded view diagrams of my guns....Thank the world of confused paintball people for that one!! I got them bak together and they work, so I'm safe. |
Posted By: ICEMANN
Date Posted: 31 May 2010 at 12:47pm
| mrspeeddemon, That gun is awesome! The only thing that I'd change would be the grey shroud, maybe flat black, but hey, that's my opinion, we all have our own styles man. NICE GUN! |
Posted By: mrbooks10
Date Posted: 22 June 2010 at 4:10pm
 that is one nice paintjob :)------------- iN mY gAmE, yOu DoNt WiN |
Posted By: Paintball Sniper
Date Posted: 30 July 2010 at 5:15pm
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I like speedemons paint job
------------- http://CrazyAboutPaintball.com - http://CrazyAboutPaintball.com |
Posted By: Mack
Date Posted: 30 July 2010 at 6:45pm
That marker looks oddly familiar.  He should post the pic up in the Marker Gallery as well.------------- 
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Posted By: The professional
Date Posted: 06 September 2010 at 9:24pm
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this question may have been answered but I have a Tippmann 98 C and its one of the old types the shell is smoth so it could be tough to paint. any helpful pointers? also I have an ak kit and after i paint my gun and bake it can I also bake the ak kits. or if not how can i make it stick. ------------- I'm White w.h.i.t. e |
Posted By: Mack
Date Posted: 06 September 2010 at 9:34pm
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Posted By: The professional
Date Posted: 07 September 2010 at 12:42pm
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the paint is smooth. It's one of the old styles and its the plastic kit. if this helps I have the silver version ------------- I'm White w.h.i.t. e |
Posted By: Mack
Date Posted: 07 September 2010 at 2:06pm
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It does help. I actually have the same setup I believe. If you had the black version I would say just strip the marker and prime it before painting. Not sure what to tell you on the silver one. (Except I like the way the silver body offsets the black AK kit so mine is not getting painted.) I would definitely not expose the plastic AK parts to any heat. (Shouldn't be necessary, assuming it is the Tippmann kit I think any decent paint should stick just fine.) -------------
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Posted By: DnB_Junk_E
Date Posted: 19 November 2010 at 7:15pm
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I'm new to the forums... and paintball, but I had a quick question. I ran across a Camo Airbrush Kit at my local hobby lobby. Do you have any feedback on wether that would be a good or bad choice in using versus say spray paint?
Also... If a plotter is available, would you recommend that to cut the stencils?
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Posted By: Ericb555
Date Posted: 07 April 2011 at 4:28am
hey This is my salvo, upgraded a bit. some of the upgrading i have done so far...
Modified the stock to make it shorter
painted the gun a darker black
sanded the paint off of the screws
removed the side rails
got a foregrip
a riser rail
a red and green dot scope
replaced the stock barrel with a 10inch BT barrel
bought a cyclone feed system and a x7 low pro hopper
and last but not least i put a APE rampage board in it with 9programable fireing modes
love this gun! got any questions let me know ------------- Hell Survivor! |
Posted By: kobebryant
Date Posted: 27 April 2011 at 1:28am
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Great! Nice thread. The thread is very informative. The guns designs are very elegant. Thanks for this thread. I really want to learn more about paintball.
------------- -deleted-advertising- |
Posted By: f23blackwidow2
Date Posted: 05 January 2012 at 6:06pm
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i want to use spray paint on my gun (98 custom platinum modified to the extreme) and i dont want it to have rubber parts that have only half the paint they should have, and i don't have a sand blaster. what do i do.
(i have more time than i have money, and thats and understatement) ------------- Live Or Lifes Not Worth Living |
Posted By: momoxsparco558
Date Posted: 30 January 2012 at 2:09am
Sandblasting: You can have parts blasted for VERY cheap, a paintball marker being as small as it is could get blasted with aluminum oxide for about $10. Painting: I prefer powder coat, you will never have a more durable coating to your marker, if you have a friend, or can wait til you have some extra cash them i would highly recommend this. If you can gain access to one its not hard to do at all. The easy way: You can easily paint your marker just by using some scotch bright to scuff the clear coating off of the marker after it is striped down. clean it very well. And rattle can will do, just pick you color. I suggest doing a etching automotive primer. The actual coat is preference really.... you can use a 99 cent can of paint, or get a translucent valve cover can for 9-14 dollars that can be baked. This will make it a lot more rugged. Scotch bright is about 3-4 dollars and etching primer is about the same. |
Posted By: trytokeep_TEMPO
Date Posted: 01 August 2012 at 1:43am
| UH........ mydipkit.com any one? |