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Custom Paintjob FAQ

Printed From: Tippmann Paintball
Category: Paintball Equipment
Forum Name: Upgrades and Customizing
Forum Description: Trick it out!
URL: http://www.tippmannsports.com/forum/wwf77a/forum_posts.asp?TID=141569
Printed Date: 03 June 2023 at 3:43pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.04 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: Custom Paintjob FAQ
Posted By: Desert Wookie
Subject: Custom Paintjob FAQ
Date Posted: 11 September 2005 at 2:16pm
Digital Camouflage Howto


1.) More time than money (Ghetto)
2.) Middle of the road.
2.) More money than time. (Pimped)

Shopping List

Ghetto Materials
$20 Good paint from hardware store.
$13 /10 sheets Frisket low tack adhesive
$4 Xacto blade
Subtotal ~$37

Middle of the road
$20 Good paint from hardware store.
$20 Digital Stencil from http://tacticalcamo.com/ - my site
$4 Xacto Blade.
Subtotal ~$50

Pimped Materials.
Purchase a paint kit from Lauer Custom Weaponry.
$98 Desert MirageFlage Stencil plus 4 bottles of paint
$30 Add in a level II airbrush kit
$15 Shipping
Subtotal: ~$145


Other Materials required.

$5 Denatured Alcohol
$5 M.E.K paint stripper/cleaner or Jasco Paintstripper (thanks to Malevolanet_frog for the jasco tip)
$5 3m Blue Paint Masking tape. This masking tape is low tack so it wonít peel the paint underneath when you remove it.
$3 Wet/Dry fine sanding sponge
Subtotal: ~$18

Optional Materials:

Painting jig to hold the weapon. I simply dropped a chain from the ceiling with a hook on the end to hold the weapon
Sandpaper for metal (for anodized parts)
Understanding Wife (soon to be painting widow)
Lint free towels for cleaning


Ghetto: Creating a Stencil.
Go to http://tacticalcamo.com/MARPAT/digi.php - my site and generate a stencil.
Some sample settings.
Color Type: Stencil B&W
Paper Size: 8.5x11
Pixel Size: 13 (this will yield ~1/8" squares when printed)
Quantity: 75
Drift: 1
Choose Digi for the pattern.
Click submit.

If you donít like what you see hit F5 to reload the page.
Experiment with the values; you are doing a custom paint job after all.
Try to generate as much random patterns on page that you can. You will be cutting out each one separately.

Here is an example:



Next print the stencil to a laser printer.

I put my low tack stencil plastic in the manual bypass tray.

Make sure it prints the image on the plastic side, not the paper side.

Please be careful, some printers will not like this and I donít want to get you in trouble with your IT department. Below are my settings on an old HP5000 LaserJet. I set it for manual feed tray and set the paper to ďtransparencyĒ.



Start cutting out the stencils. I try to keep the blade touching at all times so that I donít have small hanging chads.

FOR CRYING OUT LOUD, take your time.

Sloppy work here is just plain inexcusable.

You want a crisp sharp edge, nice 90í angles and such.

Sloppy cuts will yield a crappy finish.

Patience young padowan. Remember, you have more TIME than money ghetto dawg!

(Make sure to not touch the tacky side of the stencils with your fingers, use your xacto blade to lift and set the stencil. The oils from your fingers will inhibit the stencil from sticking which will make your paint bleed under when you hit it with a blast from your spray can.)

TIP: When doing other camo style you actually want that feathered look. In those cases make all the edges less sticky by touching them with your fingers.



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http://tacticalcamo.com - Custom Duracoat Camouflage and Stencils



Replies:
Posted By: Desert Wookie
Date Posted: 11 September 2005 at 2:16pm
The Painting Process

Step One: Cleaning

Clean your marker and clean it damn good. Failure to do so will cause immense emotional scarring.

Use latex gloves. This will protect your digits and also keep you from depositing oils on the soon to be painted weapon.

Decide whether or not you want to strip the paint off of your old marker. M.E.K. will peel it all off. When working with chemicals of any sort, its generally a good idea to test it on a small surface (Say the bottom of your marker) to see how it reacts. Same with your hopper. I had no problems with M.E.K on my Model-98, other than the fact that it wanted to take off the original factory paintjob. I actually didnít want this because it would entail a lot more scrubbing work. So after a quick cleaning with M.E.K. I rinsed it with water and wiped with alcohol.

CAUTION
MEK and paint strippers are nasty chemicals to work with. utilize proper protective equipment and procedures.
Gloves, Paint respirator and work in a well ventilated area. DO NOT TAKE CHANCES WITH YOUR HEALTH!


Step Two: Sanding

Take your sanding sponge, get it moist and scuff any smooth plastic areas, like your hopper. This will give the paint something to bite in to. Use a fine grit so that you donít have any gouges. Rinse off any plastic dust.

My first attempt, at the very end when I pulled the stencil, voila, all the paint came off! So do it right the first time, lightly sand the plastic and make sure its clean when you are finished.

If you have any anodized aluminum or any other polished metal, you will need to sand it a bit for the paint to bite. (May require a special aluminium-oxide sand paper for metal surfaces (FINE GRIT or better). I tried steel wool to no real effect.

Mask off any areas you do not want paint to get into to. Like say, your open bolts, hopper feed tubes, etc...
I disassembled my marker, removed the bolt, placed masking tape inside to protect the internals.

Apply the basecoat.

This should be done slowly, and evenly.
It is better to apply 5 light coats than 1 heavy dripping coat.

Initiate the spray before you reach your marker, that way you have a nice fine mist hitting your gun. If you start right above your marker you risk globs and splotches. Not good. Not good at all young jedi.

Experiment with distances. If you spray from too far back, the paint particles will glob together making a nasty orange peel looking finish. For my airbrush 3 inches seemed good.


Basecoat of Urban White


Let it dry per the manufacturers instructions. Longer is better.

TIP: Using the oven
In general, yes you can cure your parts in a 100 degree over for 20mins - 1 hour.
But be careful, more residential ovens swing wildly. For protection, stick a rolled up towel in the door to prop it open.



Start placing stencils with the assistance of your xacto blade. Do not press them down until you are happy with the position. Remember, with Digital camo you want to make sure the pattern runs parallel/perpendicular to your marker. Once you are happy, press them down to make sure they stick.

TIP:
Dont be afraid to cut your stencils up if they seem to large or too wide.



Urban White w/ Stencils applied.

Note: Everywhere you place a stencil on the basecoat will show through all subsequent layers. I tend to use smaller stencils on the basecoat so that I dont overwhelm the following layers.

Apply the next lightest color. Let it dry.
Repeat until you are done.


Snow Gray w/ Stencils Applied


After the weapon is dry, remove all the templates.




Now if you want you can place your female templates on the weapon now.

I tend to use these to cover up any areas where I feel the pattern is to large or to cover up areas where the paint peeled off with the stencil. It happens.

You may want to follow up with a matte clear coat for added durability. Plus it will even out the sheen of the different paints.

One final thought... Spray cans waste so much paint. I really prefer a small airbrush for this type of work.

Some more completed samples:






Feel free to contact me if you have any questions. [email]info@tacticalcamo.com[/email]


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http://tacticalcamo.com - Custom Duracoat Camouflage and Stencils


Posted By: Desert Wookie
Date Posted: 11 September 2005 at 2:17pm

<I copied this tiger-stripe how-to from Wookie's other thread.  Enjoy.>  <Rambino>

(I didnt have a marker to paint, so I used  1 half of a ruger 10-22 bullpup stock)

Howto: Paint Your Weapon Tigerstripe Style
By http://tacticalcamo.com/ - Wookie ;)

Materials
Matte Black Spray Paint
Green Spray Paint
Tan Spraypaint
3m Blue Painters Tape


    Howto: Paint Your Weapon Tigerstripe Style
    By Wookie

    Materials
    1. Matte Black Spray Paint
    2. Green Spray Paint
    3. Tan Spraypaint
    4. 3m Blue Painters Tape
    Clean and Prep
    Start by cleaning and preping your weapon. Please see my 'Howto Paint your marker Digital style' for more info.

    Apply the basecoat
    It can either be green or black. I went with green, which made the final product more black. (as you will see)
    Remember to apply a nice thin coat. You want just enough paint to color it, not drown it.



    TIP:
    If you spray too close you will get drips.
    If you spray too far it will glob in the air and give you the dreaded 'orange peel' effect.

    Allow it to dry. You can bake it to speed things along if you wish. Dont let your oven get above 110F. (put a towel in the door to prop it open)

    Taping
    Tear long strips of blue painters tape and apply it to your weapon. (make sure ant tear both sides (my photo only shows 1 side torn)

    Lay out the strips along the length of your weapon.





    Spray it with the black spraypaint (or green if you used the black as your basecoat.
    Allow it to dry.



    More Taping
    Now apply the 3m tape along the edge of your previously laid tape. You want small little lines of tan;
    Less is more at this stage. I actually used an airbrush to get in close, you maybe not be able to do that with a spray can, so you may want to mask off more than I showed in this picture.





    Allow it to dry.


    UnTaping
    Pull the tape off by tugging it against itself. This will help 'cut' the paint and reduce the chances of paint peeling off with the tape.




    Enjoy, Wookie.

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    http://tacticalcamo.com - Custom Duracoat Camouflage and Stencils


    Posted By: Desert Wookie
    Date Posted: 12 September 2005 at 9:25pm
    Originally posted by FyreFly FyreFly wrote:

    Digi Camo looks great. I'm curious to know how well the paint stuck to the
    grip and other non-metallic parts however.

    I've painted a few markers and evertime I have done so I have only painted
    dissasembled and stripped recievers, not any plastic or rubber parts.



    When I did the '98 in this howto, i hand sanded everthing I could. The grips were impossible to sand. Over time the paint wore down some.

    In later paintjobs, i sandblasted everything and the paint has not worn at all. I also followed the final coat w/ Duracoat Clear (for added protection).

    The sandblasting has really helped w/ the Hoppers, since the plastic can be a bear to get paint to stick to...

    Thanks for the comments guys...Makes me want to paint more... :)



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    http://tacticalcamo.com - Custom Duracoat Camouflage and Stencils


    Posted By: Desert Wookie
    Date Posted: 13 September 2005 at 9:46pm
    Originally posted by brihard brihard wrote:

    Hey, awesome job. :D If I'm not mistaken, didn't you post this over at MilSimOG too? I'm sur eI've seen you before.


    Yeppers, that was me...

    Originally posted by brihard brihard wrote:

    Those are some nice paintjobs. Out of curiosity, can you get smaller pixels with your templates?


    Yes, just punch in a smaller number in the Pixel textbox.
    It defaults to 13...

    Originally posted by brihard brihard wrote:

    BTW, nice Aisrosft Walther P99. I've got a spring one of those.


    Thats a real S&W Model 99. They worked w/ walther. The bottom half is walther, the top is Smith. She's my baby right now...


    Posted By: Desert Wookie
    Date Posted: 13 September 2005 at 9:46pm
    Originally posted by bluemunky42 bluemunky42 wrote:

    did you do all of those? wow. i like the blue one best.


    Yep, did 'em all...


    Posted By: Desert Wookie
    Date Posted: 14 September 2005 at 11:40am
    Originally posted by cv222005 cv222005 wrote:

    isnt the blue just painters tape?



    its vinyl stencil material from LCW.

    But i did use 3m painters tape for the woodland/predator A5....Great stuff. Cheap too. :)


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    http://tacticalcamo.com - Custom Duracoat Camouflage and Stencils


    Posted By: Desert Wookie
    Date Posted: 19 September 2005 at 8:00pm
    Originally posted by brihard brihard wrote:

    Oops, my mistake- though at least I identified the weapon correctly. 

    How do you like the weapon? I'm going to be in the market for a 9mm in the next while- I'm currently thinking a Sig 226, a Glcok 17, or a Browning Hi-Power, but if the 99 is a nice one I'd like to hear it.


    I love that little pistol. It comes w/ a bunch of 'backstraps' that you can insert into the grip to adjust the width of the pistol. For me, this is a big deal, I have big paws, and the standard 1911 frame is too small for me. The glocks felt boxy. The SW99 was just right. :)

    It has a 2-stage trigger so when you have the time you can really aim well.  All in all, my most favorite pistol yet... :)


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    http://tacticalcamo.com - Custom Duracoat Camouflage and Stencils


    Posted By: Desert Wookie
    Date Posted: 19 September 2005 at 8:05pm
    Originally posted by neocool00 neocool00 wrote:

    Wookie,
    What airbrush kit did you use? How did you keep paint from getting on the inside of your barrel?


    For the Model 98 in the HOWTO i used LCW's level 2 airbrush kit, which is  basicly a single action pasche siphon feed airbrush (cheap, but useable). I already had an air compressor so I didnt use the canned air that comes with the kit.

    The other markers were painted using a gravity fed HVLP airgrun w/ a 3oz cup.

    My next one will be painted using a combination of an Iwata HP-CS and the HVLP Airgun. Waiting on a new heavy duty air compressor for my sandblaster.

    As for keeping the paint out of the barrel, I rolled a scrap of cotton shirt around a wooden dowel  and stuck it in the barrel. Workes well. :)


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    http://tacticalcamo.com - Custom Duracoat Camouflage and Stencils


    Posted By: Desert Wookie
    Date Posted: 01 October 2005 at 9:41pm
    Originally posted by kuhndog599 kuhndog599 wrote:

    i would love to do that but i dont think i can.


    Can, you must....yess....




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    http://tacticalcamo.com - Custom Duracoat Camouflage and Stencils


    Posted By: Desert Wookie
    Date Posted: 23 October 2005 at 10:02pm
    Originally posted by SniperDude SniperDude wrote:

    Would electrical tape work too?


    For stenciling Material? I think the tape has too strong of a glue. You would risk pulling off the paint underneat the tape.

    3M painters tape is cheap and available at most hardware stores.


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    http://tacticalcamo.com - Custom Duracoat Camouflage and Stencils


    Posted By: Desert Wookie
    Date Posted: 24 October 2005 at 9:31am
    Originally posted by The Guy The Guy wrote:

    very good thread Wookie, I actually saw some of this at my field.

    When asked, he said that this is where he got it.


    Cool, i hope they post pics of it...I'm always amazed when I see what other people do...One guy on the A5OG used the stencil and cut out some mossy oak stickers. Quite ingenious use of the stencil...




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    http://tacticalcamo.com - Custom Duracoat Camouflage and Stencils


    Posted By: Glock18
    Date Posted: 08 November 2005 at 9:54pm
    sup wookie? im only 12 so ill try on airsoft gun first. can i use spray paint?


    Posted By: Desert Wookie
    Date Posted: 12 November 2005 at 9:36am
    Yes you can use spraypaint. It will show scratches and chipping  overtime, but it is a nice cost effective option.

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    http://tacticalcamo.com - Custom Duracoat Camouflage and Stencils


    Posted By: Desert Wookie
    Date Posted: 25 November 2005 at 5:48pm






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    http://tacticalcamo.com - Custom Duracoat Camouflage and Stencils


    Posted By: County
    Date Posted: 29 November 2005 at 7:14pm
    Here's Torso Bob with his Digital Camo head saver.




    -------------
    http://www.EZOfficePool.com - Free NXL and NPPL Office Pools, pw: 'gogged'
    http://www.CountySports.com/shop/news.php - Newsletter - Coupons


    Posted By: Glock18
    Date Posted: 04 December 2005 at 7:07pm

    go to this site and it has lots of cool crap, even digital vynl sheets

    http://shopping.netsuite.com/opsgear - http://shopping.netsuite.com/opsgear



    Posted By: Desert Wookie
    Date Posted: 04 December 2005 at 8:32pm
    Originally posted by Glock18 Glock18 wrote:

    go to this site and it has lots of cool crap, even digital vynl sheets

    http://shopping.netsuite.com/opsgear - http://shopping.netsuite.com/opsgear



    Have you used them? I heard that some of those camo stickers were crap. I dunno what brand the folks were talkin' about tho.


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    http://tacticalcamo.com - Custom Duracoat Camouflage and Stencils


    Posted By: jw1961
    Date Posted: 31 December 2005 at 9:08pm
    Originally posted by County County wrote:

    Here's Torso Bob with his Digital Camo head saver.


    lol


    Posted By: kuhndog599
    Date Posted: 16 February 2006 at 5:53pm

    man my paintjob is screwed up. its like flaking off. and i used a whole can of clearcoat.

    i didnt do a real good job on my digi camo so i'm probably just going to make it flat black with that drybrushing thing or just olive drab. which would look best with a stock and mag kit. its supposed to look like a sig rifle. i'm selling the handguard because its plastic and cracking like crazy. ( i ran into a tree the last time we were playing and the front site snapped off). i want to buy my friends flatline but he says no because he lost the adapter in his room and is too lazy to look for it. what an idiot it would be a great way for him to make some money. so yeah which paintjob?



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    model 98 - homemade handguard
    solid stock - opsgear mag
    polished internals
    homemade sling - paintjob
    operator barrel
    progressive barrel
    opsgear mag - stock


    Posted By: officerfarva_13
    Date Posted: 22 February 2006 at 10:05am

    any paintjobs that are really cool instead of a camo looking gun. i am a speed ball player so camo does not help im my situation but they do look good just i want to see something that actually jumps out at me

     



    Posted By: Desert Wookie
    Date Posted: 10 March 2006 at 9:30pm
     pretty much just do camo, but who knows, maybe in the future I'll got a ll crazy and make a flashy pattern. :)

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    http://tacticalcamo.com - Custom Duracoat Camouflage and Stencils


    Posted By: FyreFly
    Date Posted: 27 March 2006 at 11:55pm
    My brother's Candy Apple Green 98C is so beautiful!!  It looks amazing.


    http://www.tippmann.com/forum/wwf77a/forum_posts.asp?TID=152517&PN=1 - Go here to check out pics of it.


    -------------

    System X NME LE
    WGP Orracle Cocker
    Tippmann A-5 E-Grip & LPK
    Tippmann 98C Flatline & LPK


    Posted By: the_skdster
    Date Posted: 28 March 2006 at 2:03am

    Originally posted by FyreFly FyreFly wrote:

    My brother's Candy Apple Green 98C is so beautiful!!  It looks amazing.

    pic it up!



    -------------
    ~OTKer_4_Life~

    The Gear
    A-5
    ShinyInternals
    E-Grip w/WAS
    APEX
    PalmersStabilizer
    MP5CollapsableStock
    RemoteLine
    42mmRedDotSight
    TacCap
    WarsensorTacticalVest


    Posted By: slasherdan
    Date Posted: 11 April 2006 at 5:19pm
    So what is the method of painting the barrel with out getting the insides ......  Dirty????

    -------------
    Hauptmann Kurt "SlasherDan" Benson
    6th Fallschirmjager-Regiment, Pionere.Kompanie.1


    Posted By: kevinthegreat
    Date Posted: 12 April 2006 at 5:05pm
    Originally posted by slasherdan slasherdan wrote:

    So what is the method of painting the barrel with out getting the insides ......  Dirty????

    I would stuff it with something so that the paint wouldn't have a chance to touch the inside. something newspaper. just make sure you can get it out.


    -------------
    Tippmann A-5
    Polished internals
    4.2 inch rifled barrel
    Destroyed OD paintjob
    Love


    Posted By: the_skdster
    Date Posted: 14 April 2006 at 12:44am

    Originally posted by kevinthegreat kevinthegreat wrote:

    Originally posted by slasherdan slasherdan wrote:

    So what is the method of painting the barrel with out getting the insides ......  Dirty????

    I would stuff it with something so that the paint wouldn't have a chance to touch the inside. something newspaper. just make sure you can get it out.

    or just give your tippmann a minor re-polishing of the internals.



    -------------
    ~OTKer_4_Life~

    The Gear
    A-5
    ShinyInternals
    E-Grip w/WAS
    APEX
    PalmersStabilizer
    MP5CollapsableStock
    RemoteLine
    42mmRedDotSight
    TacCap
    WarsensorTacticalVest


    Posted By: pbhalo
    Date Posted: 04 May 2006 at 6:25pm
    Originally posted by the_skdster the_skdster wrote:

    Originally posted by kevinthegreat kevinthegreat wrote:

    Originally posted by slasherdan slasherdan wrote:

    So what is the method of painting the barrel with out getting the insides ......  Dirty????

    I would stuff it with something so that the paint wouldn't have a chance to touch the inside. something newspaper. just make sure you can get it out.

    or just give your tippmann a minor re-polishing of the internals.


    you could also just take it apart and paint the body


    -------------
    english 101 remedial kick ass


    Posted By: mess cow
    Date Posted: 07 May 2006 at 10:59pm
    paint it white

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    http://www.specialopspaintball.com/brigade/member_view.asp?id=49631">


    Posted By: soapyman
    Date Posted: 19 May 2006 at 12:58am
    hey im thinking of painting my 98 with duracoat but i don't want to take my gun apart. Does anyone have a suggestion on what i should do.


    Posted By: thornygravy
    Date Posted: 27 May 2006 at 7:01am

    you have to take your gun part... well u dont have to but it will look like **edited**



    -------------
    -Tippy 98c
    -Polished Interns.
    -RD Double Trig.
    -5'' Drop
    -j+j ceram 14''
    -12v revy x-board
    -SmartParts Grips
    -Pen Spring Mod
    -Milled Rear Sight
    -Filled Front Grip
    -Blue Paint job


    Posted By: Gasdrinker
    Date Posted: 15 June 2006 at 2:10pm
    Would you recommend painting the A5 Flatline? I think it has a factory clear coat and I would have to take off a lot of paint.

    -------------
    Tippmann A-5/Zeus G1
    E-Grip /w APE board
    QEV
    Vortex
    Flatline
    Dye UL 14 in.
    R5 Hopper
    Lapco offset rail with Tac Light/Scope
    OpsGear MP5 Sliding Stock
    OpsGear MP5 Mag kit
    SpecOps Front grip


    Posted By: chaloopy
    Date Posted: 16 June 2006 at 8:19am
    hey do you have a fleck gun you could show because thats the pattern im trying to find how to do and i cant find it

    -------------
    Tippmann 98 Custom Pro
    Polished Internals
    J & J 12" Ceramic
    Double Trigger
    Digial woodland camo reciever
    Empire Reloader B


    Posted By: KoolKidsKlan
    Date Posted: 18 June 2006 at 4:41pm

    I want to do a Pink-Silver spraypaint fade on my 98.

    How would I do this with spray paint? I have the spray paint and after I mill everything off with a filer what do I do?



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    Posted By: FyreFly
    Date Posted: 18 June 2006 at 11:31pm
    Fade:
    After you've completely prep'd your recievers, paint them completely end to end with the lighter of the two colors.  Once your satisfied and its completely dry use the darker color, start painting one end and as you get to the middle keep pulling the spray can farther away from the recievers, so you get less and less paint on them.   That's it. 

    You might want to practice on something first to get the technique down.



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    System X NME LE
    WGP Orracle Cocker
    Tippmann A-5 E-Grip & LPK
    Tippmann 98C Flatline & LPK


    Posted By: KoolKidsKlan
    Date Posted: 20 June 2006 at 12:12am

    Does it work well with spray paint?

    I'm just worried about putting the marker back together, and retaping the hoses right.



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    Posted By: FyreFly
    Date Posted: 20 June 2006 at 2:27pm
    Does taping hoses have anything to do with painting a marker?

    -------------

    System X NME LE
    WGP Orracle Cocker
    Tippmann A-5 E-Grip & LPK
    Tippmann 98C Flatline & LPK


    Posted By: madcardisease
    Date Posted: 22 June 2006 at 11:27pm
    A fade job might not work too good with rattle cans, unless you could find some really fine nozzles to put on your cans to help atomize the paint coming out. Also with painting plastic parts you should prep them with a 600-800 grit wet, clean with a automotive plastic prep cleaner, or even denatured alcohol to take off any mold release agents, and then use a plastic adhesion promoter. You can find adhesion promoter in a rattler now, so look at your local auto paint dealer or online at Autobodydepot.com.

    -------------
    Custom Pro
    48/3000,evil bottom
    Cyclone/ricochet
    Super R/T
    LPK
    AKA Sidewinder/cp guage
    Shocktech superfly
    14" j&j
    Polished int.
    Pen spring mod
    Hybrid girls


    Posted By: Desert Wookie
    Date Posted: 25 June 2006 at 9:15pm
    Originally posted by madcardisease madcardisease wrote:

    .... then use a plastic adhesion promoter. You can find adhesion promoter in a rattler now, so look at your local auto paint dealer or online at Autobodydepot.com.


    Spiffy advice, thanks :)


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    http://tacticalcamo.com - Custom Duracoat Camouflage and Stencils


    Posted By: zbusse
    Date Posted: 14 July 2006 at 12:30am
    i'ld like to paint my a-5 white.  can i do this with spraypaint if i fallow all the other steps?


    Posted By: Ghost-Rider
    Date Posted: 14 July 2006 at 4:44pm
    Woa zbusse i got it ! id love to paint my gun winter camo !
    anyone ever done it please post pics my dads building a fal ( real gun ) so he bought a airbrushing kit so i figured i could take advantage of it.


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    Posted By: Chubby
    Date Posted: 25 July 2006 at 9:57pm

    when you are painting a 98c, do you actually have to REALLY take the entire gun apart or can you just remove those 6 primary screws, remove the shell and paint that. then flip the gun over and do that side of the gun. or is their a chance of paint getting in the gun and damaging it?

    oh and if you are looking for a sweet paintjob, you can get some of that Duplicolor Mirage stuff. they have a limited amound of colors but your gun will be freakin sweet with some of that. i dont want it cuz they dont have a color combination that intrests me but go to duplicolor website and check it out.



    Posted By: little devil
    Date Posted: 26 July 2006 at 3:05pm

    I just painted my grip and hopper for my a-5. I did it camo style, the tape way and layered it with 5 colors.I think it looks pretty sweet, and i going to do my flatline soon.But note, you have to let the paint set and cure before applying more tape and layering it up. this can easily take up to a day for the paint to be totally dry before you apply anymore tape or paint. I just dont want to commit to my reciever and paint it cause i wouldnt be able to play for a week or so.  



    Posted By: Tippmann_playa
    Date Posted: 02 September 2006 at 2:19am
    sick



    -------------
    Tippmann A-5
    APE Rampage
    68/3000(remote)
    Collapsible Carbine Stock
    JCS Double Finger
    Flatline w/ Battle Shroud
    14' Progressive Rifled
    Squeeshies
    Lightning Rod
    Vortex Mod
    Sly Profit
    EMRD


    Posted By: 98Ghillie
    Date Posted: 02 September 2006 at 9:36pm
    I like the eagle on your gun wookie


    Posted By: darkandstormy_
    Date Posted: 11 October 2006 at 9:40pm
    when painting your gun how long can you stick it in the oven after its done to make the paint stay on better.. and do i spry the  clear coat before i bake it or after???????


    Posted By: Desert Wookie
    Date Posted: 18 November 2006 at 10:35am
    Bake for 1 hour at a low temp (like ~100F) Use a thermometer; stick a towel in the door to prop it open. Watch it closely.

    Spay clearcoat before you bake.

    G'luck


    -------------
    http://tacticalcamo.com - Custom Duracoat Camouflage and Stencils


    Posted By: LtCold Steel
    Date Posted: 02 December 2006 at 11:02am

    I am wanting to paint all of my guns, a 98, A-5 and a Spyder Xtra,

     

    My Spyder Xtra is that shiny blue and silver, so i need to sand all on the metal parts of the Spyder to get paint to stick?



    Posted By: pdwhat
    Date Posted: 06 December 2006 at 6:50pm
    yeah so I'm pretty sure that A-5 with the white camo is the nicest paintjob on a gun I have ever seen, you did an amazing job.

    -------------
    98 custom
    car stock
    handle/ sight


    Posted By: Desert Wookie
    Date Posted: 28 January 2007 at 9:24pm
    Playing around with a pattern.

    So the white you see is my stencil.
    Whats kinda neet is when I invert the pic, it looks spiffy. snow camo, neet huh?

    I'll post the finished stuff in about a week or so :)





    -------------
    http://tacticalcamo.com - Custom Duracoat Camouflage and Stencils


    Posted By: Black_Shadow
    Date Posted: 21 February 2007 at 10:16am
    i plan to do a paintjob on my new 98c, but im not sure whether to go with a metallic white, or some silver to yellow or gold or red fade

    one of the best things to use is automotive paint, its relatively cheap and looks great...

    i may not be one for the camo paintjob, but still cool use of stencils...

    Note: the best way to do a fade is to spray the brightest/shiniest color first, then spray the other color as you move it away from your marker, it turns out great after 3-4 light coats of gloss...

    also theres a cool technique i came up with to put pinstripes on your marker, ill test it out first, but you can be sure ill cover it in my paintjob post...

    great job wookie!


    -------------
    98CP ACT
    R/T
    J&J Ceramic 14"
    Egg II w Z-Board
    GTA Inline X-Chamber
    NCStar Red-Dot
    Pen Spring Mod
    Trigger Stops
    Polished Internals
    Dye Sticky Grip
    20oz Co2 w On/Off

    Next Up: Spimmy


    Posted By: ownagewith98
    Date Posted: 14 June 2007 at 10:35pm
    i like ur digi camo with the black grey and white- ur an awesome painter, were u live maybe if ur near me i could get u to paint my gun lol (jk)


    Posted By: thghst
    Date Posted: 09 July 2007 at 4:46am
    sweet im goign to try this

    -------------
    hmmm....so how do you want to do this? on top or bottom?


    Posted By: 98customdude98
    Date Posted: 26 July 2007 at 1:10pm
    if i jst wanted to paint the gun nothing else, what should i use and how should i do it.


    Posted By: Desert Wookie
    Date Posted: 04 August 2007 at 5:23pm
    If you have an airbrush, duracoat is a dandy paint that will last a very long time.

    If you are going the spraycan route, use soem brownells alumahyde or krylon fusion. Do the standard cleaning and priming before you apply the paint.

    G'luck


    -------------
    http://tacticalcamo.com - Custom Duracoat Camouflage and Stencils


    Posted By: xXDemonXx
    Date Posted: 07 August 2007 at 10:01pm
    im spending most of my money on the gun so for the paintjob im just going
    to use painters tape ripped upand some of my model spray paint. will that
    do and also i have a A-5 and i like Tippmann graphic should i tape off the
    whole part or just the lettering and graphics and would i use an xacto to do
    that and would that cut the gun and ruin the paintjob.... help me im a newb
    at painting my gun but im pro at painting other players :) in just kinda outa
    my zone


    Posted By: mickco
    Date Posted: 10 August 2007 at 12:27am
    hello i have been thinking about this for a while and i got the extra money to do this now. I was wondering if someone can point me in the direction of a gravity feed airbrush, preferibly one that comes with conpressed air that way i dont have to dig up my air compressor. i dont really want to spend more then $50 on this because im only painting a few guns and a ps3. thanks in advanced. if you live in toronto or the gta (you know who you are) and know of a good store please tell me. i prefer to buy from a store then online


    Posted By: Desert Wookie
    Date Posted: 13 August 2007 at 8:49am
    [QUOTE=xXDemonXx] im just going
    to use painters tape ripped upand some of my model spray paint. will that
    do and also i have a A-5 and i like Tippmann graphic should i tape off the
    whole part or just the lettering and graphics and would i use an xacto to do
    that and would that cut the gun and ruin the paintjob.../QUOTE]

    Tape and model paint will be fine.

    As for the A5 nameplate, I would take a hair dryer and warm it up. Then carefully remove the nameplate. Paint your gun and glue it back in place.

    My $.02


    -------------
    http://tacticalcamo.com - Custom Duracoat Camouflage and Stencils


    Posted By: pants500
    Date Posted: 21 August 2007 at 3:29am

    Hey guys, i really appreciate these guides, i'm in the process of painting a 98 custom as a project of mine.  I found this pretty decent 98 used w/ a 9oz co2, + 2 hoppers for 75 bucks on ebay, and just had to nail it. Currently i'm in the process of sanding, and i should be done by tomarrow.  I'll post pics up on the finished product, just thought i'd say thank you to those who made guides.

             



    -------------
    A-5:
    E-grip with APE rampage board installed, JCS powertube, JCS rear velocity adjust,JCS Jet click cyclone feed mod, camo graphics kit, freak barrel kit, 4500 psi tank.

    CCI Phantom


    Posted By: barf
    Date Posted: 31 December 2007 at 3:37pm

    my digicam tropical green 98....

    did the ghetto method with painters tape.....



    Posted By: Desert Wookie
    Date Posted: 02 January 2008 at 4:40pm
    Looks great considering you went the tape route! That must have taken some time.

    -------------
    http://tacticalcamo.com - Custom Duracoat Camouflage and Stencils


    Posted By: ashes
    Date Posted: 10 May 2008 at 7:33pm
    Just a couple painting tips.

    Oven cleaner, like Easy Off, will eat paint but not
    plastic. I have used it many times on different types of
    plastic and plaster. It usually needs to be used twice.
    Spray the object heavily, let it sit for 15 minutes,
    scrub it with warm soapy water and a dish scrubber, dry
    it, and repeat. It doesn't work on baked enamel or
    powder coating, but works on pretty much any spray paint
    we use at home.

    Scotch-Brite (3M) scour pads, which are 4x6 inch
    (10x15.5cm), 1/4 inch (8mm) thick, and usually dark
    green, are equivalent to 400 grit sandpaper. They're
    used in autobody shops for things like radiator grills,
    and tight spots. They work great for sanding between
    coats of paint to remove lint that fell on the paint, or
    to remove the gloss from enamel. I use them dry. Using
    them with water will make them sand more aggressively.
    The red ones, if you can find them, are more coarse..
    about 300 grit. They're about $3 for 5, and last a very
    long time. You can sand down an entire car with one of
    them, and it's still good after. They're good until they
    fall apart.


    Posted By: Mrwaffles
    Date Posted: 14 June 2008 at 8:20pm

    I HAVE extensively looked through this topic. I still however have some questions (in no particular order)

     

    Questions I have:

     

    -I donít need reducer unless its humid outside, correct?

    -What does the hardener do and do I need it?

    -Do I need a clear coat?

    -For TruStrip, do I want the aerosol can or a pint (can) of TruStrip?

    -What is Denatured Alcohol used for? ( to clean parts after paint stripping, trustrip, sanding and then the alcohol Iím guessing?)

     

    What kind of chemicals do I want to clean my airbrush with, if any?

    Will I need anything else to clean my airbrush with?

     

    My brother has a 125psi compressor will that work? Anything special that a compressor must have to be able to work? (itís got a ľ hose and the advanced spray kit comes with a ľ hose adapter so I figure itís good in that aspect)

     

    What kind of grit sanding paper do I need for the metal parts? (I know for plastic since madcardisease suggested 600-800 and I figure I will use 800)

     

    On lauerweaponry.com I can only purchase the ez airbrush kit and the Advanced Airbrush Kit, I want the advanced, correct?

    http://www.lauerweaponry.com/index.cfm?ID=1SAB&image=airbushkits.gif&frameset=1 - http://www.lauerweaponry.com/index.cfm?ID=1SAB&image=air bushkits.gif&frameset=1

     

    I should use M.E.K paint stripper/cleaner or Jasco Paintstripper to get strip the paint I currently have on my 98C.Then I should use the TruStrip to clean the gun off after that. Then I sand down everything to prepare for painting. Good so far?

     

    Any other steps to prepare the gun I should know about BEFORE I paint the gun?

     

    So Iím thinking when I place my order at lauerweaponry I will get:

    DuraCoat Ultra Flat Tactical Coyote Brown, 4 oz.

    DuraCoat Ultra Flat Tactical OD Green, 4 oz.

    DuraCoat Ultra Flat Tactical Dark Earth, 4 oz.

    DuraCoat Ultra Flat Tactical Black, 4 oz.

    Advanced Airbrush Kit

     

    Other stuff I need (to buy):

    3M blue painters tape

    Wet/Dry fine sanding sponge

    methyl ethyl keytone (M.E.K.) paint stripper/cleaner or Jasco Paintstripper (which one works better?)

    Denatured Alcohol

    Paint respirator

    DUPLI-COLOR ADHESION PROMOTER (says its good for painting plastic, fiberglass, bumpers and aluminum trim molding)

    800 grit wet sandpaper

     

    Thing I have, but will need:

    Laytex gloves

    Exacto knife

     

    Thanks very much



    Posted By: Nikolai049
    Date Posted: 30 June 2008 at 10:28pm
    I prefer camo gun wrap - It's somewhat durable, adaptive and removes without sticking up my gun...


    Posted By: Desert Wookie
    Date Posted: 17 September 2008 at 9:27am
    My apologies for not replying in a timely fashin; School & work have been keeping me away from the forums for a while now... It is probably too late to answer these for you, but perhaps it will help others who are searching through the thread.

    Originally posted by Mrwaffles Mrwaffles wrote:

    -I donít need reducer unless its humid outside, correct?

    -What does the hardener do and do I need it?

    -Do I need a clear coat?

    -For TruStrip, do I want the aerosol can or a pint (can) of TruStrip?

    -What is Denatured Alcohol used for? ( to clean parts after paint stripping, trustrip, sanding and then the alcohol Iím guessing?)


    I dont use reducer; I'm not sure exactly when you would use it. But if its related to humidity, then that might be why. We avg about 20% here in New Mexico.


    Hardener comes with the paint when you buy it. You need it to make it cure.


    Clearcoat adds another layer of "clear" paint on top; It will give you added protection.


    I have not used TruStrip. I use Alcohol & MEK for degreasing/ cleaning.


    Originally posted by Mrwaffles Mrwaffles wrote:

    What kind of chemicals do I want to clean my airbrush with, if any?

     


    I use MEK to flush the system. Duracoat contains MEK in it, so using MEKfor a cleaner will help break up the junk inside.




    Originally posted by Mrwaffles Mrwaffles wrote:

    My brother has a 125psi compressor will that work? Anything special that a compressor must have to be able to work?


    Thats plenty fine. You might need one of those dessicant modules that goes inline. It removes oil/water that might be in the line.


    Originally posted by Mrwaffles Mrwaffles wrote:

    What kind of grit sanding paper do I need for the metal parts? (I know for plastic since madcardisease suggested 600-800 and I figure I will use 800)

     


    I use a sandblaster but the grit you selected seems appropriate. I like the Al-Ox paper best.


    Originally posted by Mrwaffles Mrwaffles wrote:

    On lauerweaponry.com I can only purchase the ez airbrush kit and the Advanced Airbrush Kit, I want the advanced, correct?

    http://www.lauerweaponry.com/index.cfm?ID=1SAB&image=airbushkits.gif&frameset=1 -  

    I should use M.E.K paint stripper/cleaner or Jasco Paintstripper to get strip the paint I currently have on my 98C.Then I should use the TruStrip to clean the gun off after that. Then I sand down everything to prepare for painting. Good so far?

     

    Any other steps to prepare the gun I should know about BEFORE I paint the gun?


    The adv airbrush will do the trick.

    I use Jasco first. Wash with soap & water. Sand. Rinse with Alcohol.


    The only thing to be aware of is that you need a good respirator mask and good ventilation. MEK/Duracoat is some bad stuff. Folks nickname Methyl Ethyl Ketone, Methyl Ethyl Death. Dont skimp on this. Also get a good pair of thick chemical gloves.




    -------------
    http://tacticalcamo.com - Custom Duracoat Camouflage and Stencils


    Posted By: Epic Otter
    Date Posted: 27 December 2008 at 8:07pm
    i hate barging into the middle of a thread, but i'm looking to paint my Alpha black w/ e trigger, and kinda curious about painting it. How well will the plastic take the paint, or any recommendations? 


    Posted By: paintballplaya7
    Date Posted: 05 January 2009 at 12:39am
    use the krylon special camo paint. good for plastic. it may take a little extra paint compared to metal. make sure to due light layers, don't glob it

    -------------
    *Custom Pro
    *Cyclone feed
    *X7 hopper
    *M16 Carry Handle
    *BT 16 Apex Barrel
    *Car Stock
    *remote
    *camo paint job
    *Single point sling
    *JT Full Coverage Camo
    *realtree RAP4 vest


    Posted By: robo4eva
    Date Posted: 10 January 2009 at 7:09pm

    if i wanted to paint a hopper, would it be any easier, this is too challenging,lol pm me



    -------------
    You pop your head up and you see a paintball flying through the air and SPLAT! YOUR OUT!


    Posted By: Malolo
    Date Posted: 19 May 2009 at 10:23pm
    Was going to do digi camo, but then got tired of making stencils, so I went with tiger stripe, and decided to stop at the hopper and clip. But I really like the olive drab colour.




    Posted By: ShotFromAfar
    Date Posted: 16 July 2009 at 9:01pm
    Could you perhaps tell me what build you have there? its an A-5 no doubt but what attatchments?cool gun btwClapClapClapClap

    -------------

    You need some wine for that stunt


    Posted By: diablomotoracing
    Date Posted: 20 October 2009 at 1:04am
    i'm good with all programs to get digi temps but i dont want to look like a show off when i'm on the field.... What do you think.... I'm not a "Pimped-Out" kind of guy... lol

    Any ideas....


    -------------
    Don't hate me


    Posted By: mrspeeddemon
    Date Posted: 16 May 2010 at 12:23am


    Posted By: mrspeeddemon
    Date Posted: 16 May 2010 at 12:24am
    let me know what you guys think, I'm new to the forum


    Posted By: unclebob
    Date Posted: 18 May 2010 at 3:29pm
    sweet thread just checking it out and now thinking bout painting my x7 so, i just scanned through the thread and what i get is take the gun apart, sand it down to roughen the finish, apply the stencils and paint i'll probably use spray paint unless i can find a decent airbrush and borrow buddies compressor, then let sit,
    how long should it sit before adding the next layer of paint cause i dont want my gun to be all sticky in the end is there a special kind of paint that should be used, ive taken it apart before so i have no problem doing that since it seems some people are to scared to take theirs apart and they wont be able to put it back together,


    Posted By: ICEMANN
    Date Posted: 31 May 2010 at 12:40pm
    I LOVE THIS THREAD, THE GUNS, THE PAINT-JOBS!!!!!!
    It's freakin' awesome. I have a Tippmann 98C Platinum and got a Realtree camo kit for it, but as it turns out, it was for a regular 98C....WELL CRAP! Time for new ideas!
    So, now I have plenty of ideas on what to do to camo it up. BTW, while I'm thinking about it, does anybody on here have some gun ghillie techniques??
    I was also wanting to tell you guys that are planning on using spray paint, At Wal-mart, there is actually like four different camo colors (SUPER-FLAT) made by Rust-O-Leum and it's a fairly decent price for them.


    Posted By: ICEMANN
    Date Posted: 31 May 2010 at 12:45pm
    I was too, and I did take mine apart, and....of course I forgot how to put them back together...three Viewloaders...Triad, Lancer, And High Voltage...then I got on Tech Support on thir website and they fortunately had exploded view diagrams of my guns....Thank the world of confused paintball people for that one!! I got them bak together and they work, so I'm safe.


    Posted By: ICEMANN
    Date Posted: 31 May 2010 at 12:47pm
    mrspeeddemon, That gun is awesome! The only thing that I'd change would be the grey shroud, maybe flat black, but hey, that's my opinion, we all have our own styles man. NICE GUN!


    Posted By: mrbooks10
    Date Posted: 22 June 2010 at 4:10pm
    Thumbs Up that is one nice paintjob :)

    -------------
    iN mY gAmE, yOu DoNt WiN


    Posted By: Paintball Sniper
    Date Posted: 30 July 2010 at 5:15pm
    I like speedemons paint job

    -------------
    http://CrazyAboutPaintball.com - http://CrazyAboutPaintball.com


    Posted By: Mack
    Date Posted: 30 July 2010 at 6:45pm
    Originally posted by Paintball Sniper Paintball Sniper wrote:

    I like speedemons paint job


    That marker looks oddly familiar.  Smile    He should post the pic up in the Marker Gallery as well.


    -------------


    Posted By: The professional
    Date Posted: 06 September 2010 at 9:24pm

    this question may have been answered but I have a Tippmann 98 C and its one of the old types the shell is smoth so it could be tough to paint. any helpful pointers? also I have an ak kit and after i paint my gun and bake it can I also bake the ak kits. or if not how can i make it stick.



    -------------
    I'm White w.h.i.t.   e


    Posted By: Mack
    Date Posted: 06 September 2010 at 9:34pm
    • By "the shell is smooth" do you mean the paint on it is smooth or the metal under the paint after it was removed?
    • Which AK kit?
      • If it has wood or plastic parts I would guess that it's best not to expose those parts to heat.


    -------------


    Posted By: The professional
    Date Posted: 07 September 2010 at 12:42pm
    the paint is smooth. It's one of the old styles and its the plastic kit. if this helps I have the silver version

    -------------
    I'm White w.h.i.t.   e


    Posted By: Mack
    Date Posted: 07 September 2010 at 2:06pm
    It does help.  I actually have the same setup I believe.  If you had the black version I would say just strip the marker and prime it before painting.  Not sure what to tell you on the silver one.  (Except I like the way the silver body offsets the black AK kit so mine is not getting painted.)

    I would definitely not expose the plastic AK parts to any heat.  (Shouldn't be necessary, assuming it is the Tippmann kit I think any decent paint should stick just fine.)


    -------------


    Posted By: DnB_Junk_E
    Date Posted: 19 November 2010 at 7:15pm
    I'm new to the forums... and paintball, but I had a quick question. I ran across a Camo Airbrush Kit at my local hobby lobby. Do you have any feedback on wether that would be a good or bad choice in using versus say spray paint?
     
    Also... If a plotter is available, would you recommend that to cut the stencils?


    Posted By: Ericb555
    Date Posted: 07 April 2011 at 4:28am
    hey This is my salvo, upgraded a bit. some of the upgrading i have done so far...
    Modified the stock to make it shorter
    painted the gun a darker black
    sanded the paint off of the screws
    removed the side rails
    got a foregrip
    a riser rail
    a red and green dot scope
    replaced the stock barrel with a 10inch BT barrel
    bought a cyclone feed system and a x7 low pro hopper
    and last but not least i put a APE rampage board in it with 9programable fireing modes
     
    love this gun! got any questions let me know


    -------------
    Hell Survivor!


    Posted By: kobebryant
    Date Posted: 27 April 2011 at 1:28am
    Great! Nice thread. The thread is very informative. The guns designs are very elegant. Thanks for this thread. I really want to learn more about paintball.

    -------------
    -deleted-advertising-


    Posted By: f23blackwidow2
    Date Posted: 05 January 2012 at 6:06pm
    i want to use spray paint on my gun (98 custom platinum modified to the extreme) and i dont want it to have rubber parts that have only half the paint they should have, and i don't have a sand blaster. what do i do.
     
    (i have more time than i have money, and thats and understatement)


    -------------
    Live
    Or Lifes Not
    Worth Living


    Posted By: momoxsparco558
    Date Posted: 30 January 2012 at 2:09am
    Originally posted by f23blackwidow2 f23blackwidow2 wrote:

    i want to use spray paint on my gun (98 custom platinum modified to the extreme) and i dont want it to have rubber parts that have only half the paint they should have, and i don't have a sand blaster. what do i do.
     
    (i have more time than i have money, and thats and understatement)

    Sandblasting:
    You can have parts blasted for VERY cheap, a paintball marker being as small as it is could get blasted with aluminum oxide for about $10.

    Painting: I prefer powder coat, you will never have a more durable coating to your marker, if you have a friend, or can wait til you have some extra cash them i would highly recommend this. If you can gain access to one its not hard to do at all.
    The easy way:
    You can easily paint your marker just by using some scotch bright to scuff the clear coating off of the marker after it is striped down. clean it very well. And rattle can will do, just pick you color. I suggest doing a etching automotive primer. The actual coat is preference really.... you can use a 99 cent can of paint, or get a translucent valve cover can for 9-14 dollars that can be baked. This will make it a lot more rugged.
    Scotch bright is about 3-4 dollars and etching primer is about the same.


    Posted By: trytokeep_TEMPO
    Date Posted: 01 August 2012 at 1:43am
    UH........ mydipkit.com any one?



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