I have a tippmann 98C, with R/T and double trigger, when I let the R/T rip, the movement of the bolt is to strong and I end up aiming higher than I need to, I was thinking that part of the problem is that the bolt is to heavy and when it bounces back it "kicks" alot, I think I have 2 options:

1. I was thinking to drill some holes on the rear bolt lengthwise, every 45° with a depth of 1/2 the bolt. (easier option)

2. Make a new bolt out of nylamid with a steel insert at the end (the side that is in contact with the valve) and the part that is in contact with the sear.

Has anybody done this?, what do yoy recommend? can I damage the integrity of the bolt??

I also have a question? what does the rear bolt plug do?, If I make the bolt in nylamd, do I really need the plug?

thanks

Problem: the weight and force of the rear bolt determine the valve dwell (how long the valve is open to release air). If you screw with this, you won't have to worry about recoil you'll have to worry about making the gun shoot correctly again. My suggestions:

1. Get the low pressure kit. It has a lighter bolt, and it's a lot less painless to just throw this in (with a regulator) than drill 20 different bolts and mess with input pressure.

2. Get a remote line and a stock. A stock is designed to reduce recoil by allowing your body to absorb it better. I always suggest a remote line because a tank doesn't fit well with a stock, and having the tank on the gun unbalances it anyway, rendering your stock less effective.

Either way you look, it's much better to spend money rather than screw up your gun 20 times to make a cheap mod work.

P.S. The rear bolt plug holds in the drive spring, thats the spring that makes the rear bolt go forward, which is the entire operating method of your gun. Taking out the drive spring makes the gun not release air, which consequently makes it not work.

You don't want to make the bolt too light with an r/t, or the bolt could possibly not latch onto the sear, because the guns cycling so fast. So I wouldn't go drilling 20 holes. I would look inot getting one of these http://www.darkhorizoncorp.com/products.asp - http://www.darkhorizoncorp.com/products.asp . But don't get the lite one (just get the regular one), for the reason stated on the page. Look on E-bay. I've seen 1 go for $40.

baconking wrote: why wont it work with rt? doesnt a light bolt cycle just as fast as a heavy bolt?

Taken directly from DH site "The hammer is so light and cycles so fast, that guns with the response trigger can't react fast enough to latch the sear." Now, if you shoot slow it might work, but if you let your r/t rip, it will probably do the above. So just get the regular version, and you should be good (if you have the r/t).

I have a Dark Horizon "light" titanium hammer, and it does cycle way faster and also gets rid of all kick. But i dont have r/t so i dont know how it would work with it. Overall, get a dark horizon hammer. They rock!

thanks guys.

I'm going to have to wait, till I go to the states, here in mexico is hard to get the Dark horizon or the delrin bolt. I can get the low pressure kit, but I will need to try it out first to see how much "kick" is reduced.

ANARCHY_SCOUT wrote: hey What if im shooting like 10 - 12 balls mech with my 98 c would the lite rear bolt work?

Yea, it would probably work right. But I don't think you can pull 12 bps on a stock Tippy.