If it was leaking out down the barrel, then you have a valve problem. Take it to a pro shop. If it is leaking anywhere else, then it is nothing that some teflon tape or loctite couldnt fix. But your details are kinda vauge, so i cant really help that much.

Good luck.

dsmracin35 wrote: i know i have problem with a buddies a-5 when i install his rt. it could be a bad oring in the power tube. i'd check there 1st.

whats a power tube (i didn't install it i just bought it)

jetsniper wrote: gramatically correctified

no

jetsniper wrote: whats a power tube (i didn't install it i just bought it)

My first suggestion is that you paruse this Tippmann site and read the stickies so that you have a little bit better understanding of at least the parts called out by people trying to help you. Not much good to ask a question when you can't understand the answer...much less how to go into the marker to fix it.

dsmracin35 wrote: i know i have problem with a buddies a-5 when i install his rt. it could be a bad oring in the power tube. i'd check there 1st.

I have the same problem with my 98c when I installed my RT.  So there is an O-ring in the power tube? *tries to remember*  Guess I will look.

If thats not it, what else?  There are plenty of ppl out there with working RTs.  Maybe someone could post a few pics of the insides so we can compare them.

So even though the CO2 is coming out through the barrel, it is actually air escaping out of the gas line and the valve?

So what I do is unscrew the gas line and apply teflon to the same place where the Loctite stuff goes according to the RT instructions, right?

Also, how come the stock setup Tippmann uses works?  Thats Loctite.

Vazguard wrote: So even though the CO2 is coming out through the barrel, it is actually air escaping out of the gas line and the valve? So what I do is unscrew the gas line and apply teflon to the same place where the Loctite stuff goes according to the RT instructions, right? Also, how come the stock setup Tippmann uses works?  Thats Loctite.

No, that advise is incorrect. The only way gas is leaking out the barrel is if the pin valve is not seated properly inside the power valve body. There are no "O" rings cracked torn or otherwise that will cause gas to leak out of the barrel when the marker in cocked.

As I  am sure you know, if the marker is un-cocked the hammer rests against the power valve pin. The pressure may be enough to hold the power valve open...thus a leak down the barrel.

But if it is still leaking when the hammer is in the cocked position then there is a problem with the seating of the pin valve contact surfaces inside the power valve. Usually it is a small piece of trash that gets stuck to the rubber face of the pin valve. Usually the first attempt to fix it is to squirt some oil (either use air tool oil, available at auto-parts stores, or Hoppe's gun oil...not the #9 cleaner, but the OIL) into the air feed hole inside the ASA. Then, without the barrel on the marker and no paint, fire the marker several shots.

This will distribute oil through the valve, and actually throughout the marker to other places that it is needed, and may remove the trash in the valve seat. Many times this alone will fix things.

If the valve re-seats and quits leaking, fire the marker some more to blow out the excess oil as you don't want oil deposited inside your barrel. Then reinstall the barrel. Try this. If it doesn't work, get back here and we'll run you through disassembling the power valve.

One last thing about using sealer when reassembling gas line fittings. Some people like Teflon and I have used it a lot myself, but when screwing fittings back together after a wrap or two of Teflon tape there is a chance of getting little shredded threads of Teflon into the gas passageways. This can be a particular problem when removing fittings after Teflon has been used. The tape literally gets cut to threads(shreds) by the threaded parts of the fittings. These tend to fall into the valve unless you are really careful to clean them out with Q-tips or tweezers. Problems with these shredded pieces of Teflon in gas and fuel lines are serious enough that the FAA has ruled that Teflon tape may not be used to seal critical hydraulic or aircraft fuel lines. There have been several accidents caused by Teflon clogged lines and valves.

Small shreds of Teflon loose in the gas feed system may get between the mating surfaces of the valve and prevent the valve contact surfaces from forming an airtight seal.

Blue Loc Tite is the sealer of choice. It seals as soon as the parts are screwed together and the parts can be disassembled months later with little difficulty. Red Loc Tite is intended to be permanent and even though, with a lot of force, it can be removed, you may damage things with the force needed.

Vazguard wrote:   Blue Loc Tite is the sealer of choice. It seals as soon as the parts are screwed together and the parts can be disassembled months later with little difficulty. Red Loc Tite is intended to be permanent and even though, with a lot of force, it can be removed, you may damage things with the force needed.

And damage things I did. I went to install the new power tube that came with the RT for my 98C and the red loctite on the bolts that are used to keep the valve in place are now stripped! I was being carefull but the bolts just kept on spinnin'. I managed to get them out but I'm afraid that my valve is useless now. The threads on the valve were stripped and the Red Loctite was just caked on there.

I haven't found a site that has replacement valves for sale. Does Tippmann have them or do I need to repair this myself. I guess I could disassemble the valve and drill and tap the holes to the next size up and drill the two holes on the marker reciever to accept the new bolts but this is a last resort.

[sorry about the thread hijacking. I did a search and this thread came up so I didn't want to start another one.]

DX VIPER wrote: Vazguard wrote: Blue Loc Tite is the sealer of choice. It seals as soon as the parts are screwed together and the parts can be disassembled months later with little difficulty. Red Loc Tite is intended to be permanent and even though, with a lot of force, it can be removed, you may damage things with the force needed. And damage things I did. I went to install the new power tube that came with the RT for my 98C and the red loctite on the bolts that are used to keep the valve in place are now stripped! I was being carefull but the bolts just kept on spinnin'. I managed to get them out but I'm afraid that my valve is useless now. The threads on the valve were stripped and the Red Loctite was just caked on there. I haven't found a site that has replacement valves for sale. Does Tippmann have them or do I need to repair this myself. I guess I could disassemble the valve and drill and tap the holes to the next size up and drill the two holes on the marker reciever to accept the new bolts but this is a last resort. [sorry about the thread hijacking. I did a search and this thread came up so I didn't want to start another one.]

It is likely that the Red Loc-Tite was used because the threads were previously stripped. If you set out to drill and tap to the next size be aware that those are limited depth screws and do not go through into the gas chamber. A lot of care and a bottoming tap are necessary.

The screw holes could be drilled into the gas chamber if you use screw lengths that do not extend into the chamber to interfere with the spring or pin valve movement. Definitely would require sealing with the Blue Loc-Tite.

One last suggestion, you could reinstall new screws into the stripped holes using Red Loc-Tite. Insert the screw into the Loc-Tite prepped hole then clamp the receiver pressing the screws to hold them tightly in the holes with a vise or Vise-Grip pliers. Let it sit overnight.

Another bit of info, when you need to remove small screws that have been Red LocTite'd in place, application of a little heat will aid in removal. Take one of those trigger style soldering guns, melt a droplet of solder on the tip, then hold it against the screw to heat it, The solder will not solder the screw, it is there to help transfer the heat to the screw. Heat the screw head until it is very warm...approchjing too hot to touch. The screw can then be easily turned out of the LocTite'd hole while still warm. The higher the wattage of the soldering gun, the better. Do not try applying flame to the screw to heat it. Too easy to do damage.

Bruce A. Frank wrote: It is likely that the Red Loc-Tite was used because the threads were previously stripped. If you set out to drill and tap to the next size be aware that those are limited depth screws and do not go through into the gas chamber. A lot of care and a bottoming tap are necessary. The screw holes could be drilled into the gas chamber if you use screw lengths that do not extend into the chamber to interfere with the spring or pin valve movement. Definitely would require sealing with the Blue Loc-Tite. One last suggestion, you could reinstall new screws into the stripped holes using Red Loc-Tite. Insert the screw into the Loc-Tite prepped hole then clamp the receiver pressing the screws to hold them tightly in the holes with a vise or Vise-Grip pliers. Let it sit overnight. Another bit of info, when you need to remove small screws that have been Red LocTite'd in place, application of a little heat will aid in removal. Take one of those trigger style soldering guns, melt a droplet of solder on the tip, then hold it against the screw to heat it, The solder will not solder the screw, it is there to help transfer the heat to the screw. Heat the screw head until it is very warm...approchjing too hot to touch. The screw can then be easily turned out of the LocTite'd hole while still warm. The higher the wattage of the soldering gun, the better. Do not try applying flame to the screw to heat it. Too easy to do damage.

Thanks for the tips Bruce. I wish I would've known about the heating up the bolt tip before I began but what's done is done. I think I'm going to try the re-apply the Red Loctite and use Vice grips method.