Jman27 wrote: would anything be differrent if you have an r/t??

No. This will also help make the R/T faster. Just make sure you dis-assemble your gun, before polishing.

2nd LT. USMC wrote: what is this all about??? what does it do and how do u do it?

After you have used a new marker for a while, when you take it apart you will likely see areas where the forward and rear bolts have scuffed the inside of the receiver. Though that interference is minor, take a little fine steel wool, I recomment either stainless steel wool or fine grit Scotch Brite pads, and smooth those scuffs. You'll possibly find that noise is reduced; action is faster and certainly less energy is wasted powering those no longer rough parts across each other.

There can be more improvement by taking it a step further. The front bolt usually (some after-market parts don't) has an "O" ring seal near its leading edge. This "O" ring centers the bolt in the throat of the barrel and helps to allign it straight behind the ball. Once the "high points" are removed with the steel wool or Scotch Brite you can take a Dremel Tool with a felt buffing bob and using some of Dremel's red polishing compound bring the chamber, the ball feed opening and the chamber area leading into the barrel, to a mirror finish. You will likely find that the "O" ring now seals better so that there is no gas leakage blowing back into the receiving chamber or up into the hopper throat.

Once I had mirror polished this area I had a sense of better feed and fewer chopped balls. Whether this extra work is necessary, I just cannot say. Smoothness of ball movement, alignment and sealing should improve accuracy, but it is difficult to tell with the inherent inaccuracy of paintball markers.

One additional note, with the receiver chamber area mirror polished you need to wipe it with a very lightly oiled cloth. If you do not oil the newly polished surface slightly you may find that the front bolt "O" ring will actually stick to those surfaces and fail to seat against the back of the barrel. I know that sounds strange, but I have tested it out on several Tippmanns now, that very smooth highly polished surface actually becomes sticky to the slide of the "O" ring. Lightly oil it and the "O" ring itself. After the first oiling, each time I heavily clean it, I lightly oil it again...in this case less is better...use as little oil as possible.