i've had my A5 for a little over a year now, with no major problems til about a week ago. i will attach a full tank, and after about 50 shots, the gun will start sputtering and uncocking like its about to go out of air. i cock it back, and it either sputters again or fires about 20 more shots fine then goes back to uncocking. does anyone have any idea what the problem is? ive replaced the o-ring on my tank, but i dont know how to get to the internal o-ring inside the gun. is there anything else that i could try?

im aware that this problem may have been posted before, if so, please give me a link to the topic. thanks

pw45 wrote: i've had my A5 for a little over a year now, with no major problems til about a week ago. i will attach a full tank, and after about 50 shots, the gun will start sputtering and uncocking like its about to go out of air. i cock it back, and it either sputters again or fires about 20 more shots fine then goes back to uncocking. does anyone have any idea what the problem is? ive replaced the o-ring on my tank, but i dont know how to get to the internal o-ring inside the gun. is there anything else that i could try? im aware that this problem may have been posted before, if so, please give me a link to the topic. thanks

You are going to have to read your manual and look at the parts view page for your marker here on Tippmann's site. Then you are going to have to take the marker apart and replace to "O" ring on the front end on the rear bolt (hammer). This "O" ring seals the nose of the hammer into the back end of the power tube so that the blow back gas can exert the push on the hammer to kick it back to the cocked position.

Also with a soft lint free cloth wipe the inside of the rear opening of the power tube to remove any dirt that might prevent the hammer's "O" ring from sealing properly. Wipe a little oil on both the hammer's "O" ring and on the inside of the rear of the power tube (the area you just cleaned).

This should solve the problem. BUT, if it doesn't look at the engagement edges of the sear and the notch of the hammer to assure they are not worn to the point that they will no longer engage properly. If they are rounded so that they slip and allow the hammer to fall just from the slamming around of the moving parts, then replace the sear and the hammer (rear bolt). The hammer is softer than the sear and wears a bit more quickly. If you have a mechanical ability you may be able to file a new sharp edged slot in the hammer to save a few dollars. But new hammer and sear are the easy way.

ok sounds good... thanks guys