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Super R/T + QEV Tutorial

Printed From: Tippmann Paintball
Category: Paintball Equipment
Forum Name: Upgrades and Customizing
Forum Description: Trick it out!
URL: http://www.tippmannsports.com/forum/wwf77a/forum_posts.asp?TID=152632
Printed Date: 29 March 2024 at 7:47am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.04 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: Super R/T + QEV Tutorial
Posted By: RavenGuard
Subject: Super R/T + QEV Tutorial
Date Posted: 31 March 2006 at 4:53pm
Everyone is PMing me about how to complete the Super R/T with a QEV mod on their 98 or a-5.  I'd like to ask a mod to sticky this post.

If you are like me, you thought the super r/t would be an easy mod.  You call Tippmann, they send you the parts, you put them on.  Once you get them, you realize you don't have exactly what you need to properly connect everything.  Here I will show you the easiest way to complete a full Super R/T and QEV setup.

First off, what is the logic behind the Super R/T?  By changing the hoselines and connectors from 1/16" to 1/8", you greatly increase the airflow to the R/T.  This in turn gives the R/T the ability to cycle faster, and will in most cases allow a rate of fire of 20 balls per second, sometimes more.  Some of you woodsballers may say that is useless, but it is not the only use for the Super R/T.  The larger hoses actually allow the user to hold the sweetspot of the R/T much easier, and for greater periods of time.  This means you will more than likely be able to maintain an almost effortless 12-15 bps, maybe higher depending on your tolerance.  Remember, the R/T doesn't just have to be tuned for speed.

The next question to clear up is how does the QEV affect the cyclone system?  When the stock cyclone cycles with the marker, air is forced into the chamber attached to the feeder and it cocks the cyclone, after the paintball has left the barrel and pressure is released, the cyclone is triggered and uncocks, spinning it and loading a new ball.  The air that was in the cyclone is forced back into the body of the marker.  By adding a QEV, the air is allowed to escape directly out the end of the cyclone, allowing it to cycle faster.  You need to understand that the cyclone does not spin when pressure is applied, but when pressure is released.  You can see this yourself by pushing the manual button.


On to the fun part!

What You Will Need:
-1/8" Flow Control Adjuster (10/32 threading)*
- http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=TT0-404-PKG - Banjo "T" Fitting (or regular http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=CT0-4-PKG - Banjo Fitting without cyclone)*
- http://www.clippard.com/store/byo_tubing/?strSize=URH1-0402&strColor=BKS&strLength=50&sku=URH1-0402-BKS-050 - 1/8" ID Line (gun to adjuster)*
- http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=MEV-2 - Clippard MEV (or QEV of your choice)
- http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=CT4-PKG - Pack of 1/8" barbs
- http://www.clippard.com/store/byo_tubing/?strSize=URH1-0402&strColor=BKS&strLength=50&sku=URH1-0402-BKS-050 - 1/8" ID Line (gun to QEV)

*Parts provided by Tippmann


Step 1:  Notice the difference.

Here are the standard fittings and hoselines (1/16"):


1.) 1/16" Banjo "T" (10/32 threading)
2.) 1/16" Flow Control Adjuster (10/32 threading)
3.) 1/16" Banjo (10/32 threading)


Step 2:  Preparing to install.

Befor installing the parts onto the actual marker, there are a few things to connect and mess around with.

First, you should connect the 1/8" adjuster fitting to the Banjo "T" fitting using an appropriately sized ID hoseline (all provided by Tippmann).  Make sure to connect both fittings with the threading facing the same way. 


The QEV:

The QEV has no way to attach to the hoseline, so a barb must first be attached.  Screw a single 1/8" barb into the "Input" side of the QEV.  Now, you may hold the QEV near to the marker to determine the exact size of ID hose you must cut to attach the QEV to the Banjo "T".

After you have cut the proper length hose, attach it to the Banjo "T" with the threading of the "T" facing left and the threading of the QEV facing down.


Installing the Super R/T:

Now you will want to attach these parts to the actual marker.  Befor attaching the QEV, you may want to note that it will be facing the wrong direction when properly secured.  To solve this problem, many people file down the cyclone for it to fit properly, but I simply removed o-rings from the extra barbs (it comes in a pack of 5) and put them onto the QEV until it would secure in the proper direction.  Be sure to add a small amount of oil if you are doing this.

Now, simply make sure the stock fittings are removed, and secure the QEV, as well as attach both the rear adjuster and the Banjo "T".

This is what the setup should look like:


1.) 1/8" Banjo "T" fitting (10/32 threading)
2.) 1/8" Flow Control Adjuster (10/32 threading)
3.) QEV
4.) Exaust side of QEV
5.) O-rings

Here it is from a different angle:


1.) 1/8" Banjo "T" fitting (10/32 threading)
2.) 1/8" Flow Control Adjuster (10/32 threading)
3.) QEV
4.) 1/8" Barb fitting

Now you are essentially done the Super R/T + QEV mod on your A-5 or 98.

If you would prefer to find a Clippard parts dealer rather than purchase these parts over the internet (to avoid shipping etc.) do as follows:

1.) Go http://www.clippard.com/establish_locale.asp?strRedirect=/distributors/Default.asp - HERE
2.) Select your country.
3.) Enter other information it asks for (zip/postal etc.)
4.) Scroll down, and information on the nearest dealer will be displayed.

Now go get it tuned, and have some fun!


-------------
Tippmann A-5
Polished Internals
E-Grip
Ape Board
JCS Blade Trigger
QEV
8" Bigshot + Apex
Ricochet R-5 / Tac Cap
Palmers Stabilizer
68/4500 Crossfire



Replies:
Posted By: RavenGuard
Date Posted: 01 April 2006 at 9:41am
I'm glad so many are finding this useful :P:P:P

-------------
Tippmann A-5
Polished Internals
E-Grip
Ape Board
JCS Blade Trigger
QEV
8" Bigshot + Apex
Ricochet R-5 / Tac Cap
Palmers Stabilizer
68/4500 Crossfire


Posted By: Skillet42565
Date Posted: 01 April 2006 at 9:54am
Very well done RavenGuard.  I personally dont need it, but the newbs here arnt going to read this before they post 

-------------


Posted By: RavenGuard
Date Posted: 01 April 2006 at 10:07am
Well, it'd save everyone some time by simply linking here instead of re writing this whole thing 19 times like I had to for everyone who asked.  Maybe I'm just too nice :P

-------------
Tippmann A-5
Polished Internals
E-Grip
Ape Board
JCS Blade Trigger
QEV
8" Bigshot + Apex
Ricochet R-5 / Tac Cap
Palmers Stabilizer
68/4500 Crossfire


Posted By: Ashdawg
Date Posted: 01 April 2006 at 10:32am
I greatly appreciate your efforts. Very nice tutorial! I'm sure many will find it very useful. Thanks man!

-------------
"Too close for missles, switching to guns..."


Posted By: RavenGuard
Date Posted: 01 April 2006 at 10:13pm
Your welcome... It doesn't look like this is gonna get stickied though... :(

-------------
Tippmann A-5
Polished Internals
E-Grip
Ape Board
JCS Blade Trigger
QEV
8" Bigshot + Apex
Ricochet R-5 / Tac Cap
Palmers Stabilizer
68/4500 Crossfire


Posted By: Rambino
Date Posted: 01 April 2006 at 11:08pm

Very nice post.

Ravenguard, if you could repost this in the uber FAQ thread, that would be great.  Thanks.

and your inbox is full.



-------------
[IMG]http://i38.tinypic.com/aag8s8.jpg">


Posted By: RavenGuard
Date Posted: 02 April 2006 at 11:38am
Alright :)

Sorry about the inbox... I'm used to being able to have more than 10 msgs lol.


-------------
Tippmann A-5
Polished Internals
E-Grip
Ape Board
JCS Blade Trigger
QEV
8" Bigshot + Apex
Ricochet R-5 / Tac Cap
Palmers Stabilizer
68/4500 Crossfire


Posted By: Snake6
Date Posted: 02 April 2006 at 11:42am
Originally posted by RavenGuard RavenGuard wrote:

Alright :)

Sorry about the inbox... I'm used to being able to have more than 10 msgs lol.

You can have 40.


-------------


Posted By: RavenGuard
Date Posted: 02 April 2006 at 11:49am
Originally posted by Snake6 Snake6 wrote:

Originally posted by RavenGuard RavenGuard wrote:

Alright :)

Sorry about the inbox... I'm used to being able to have more than 10 msgs lol.

You can have 40.


I only had 10 and it said 100% full...

Anyways, It's in the upgrades an customizing, but I guess I'll let it float around here for others to see it.


-------------
Tippmann A-5
Polished Internals
E-Grip
Ape Board
JCS Blade Trigger
QEV
8" Bigshot + Apex
Ricochet R-5 / Tac Cap
Palmers Stabilizer
68/4500 Crossfire


Posted By: Snake6
Date Posted: 02 April 2006 at 11:54am
Originally posted by RavenGuard RavenGuard wrote:

Originally posted by Snake6 Snake6 wrote:

Originally posted by RavenGuard RavenGuard wrote:

Alright :)

Sorry about the inbox... I'm used to being able to have more than 10 msgs lol.

You can have 40.


I only had 10 and it said 100% full...

Anyways, It's in the upgrades an customizing, but I guess I'll let it float around here for others to see it.

Ha!

you got jipped then.

Originally posted by Pm Box Pm Box wrote:

Snake6, You have 27 Private Messages, you can receive another 13 out of 40


-------------


Posted By: RavenGuard
Date Posted: 02 April 2006 at 6:09pm
lol...  Sometimes you make me wonder, snake :P

-------------
Tippmann A-5
Polished Internals
E-Grip
Ape Board
JCS Blade Trigger
QEV
8" Bigshot + Apex
Ricochet R-5 / Tac Cap
Palmers Stabilizer
68/4500 Crossfire


Posted By: 3hb78ftg
Date Posted: 03 April 2006 at 11:21pm

Excellent post, If you are interested in buying the parts, I found them available http://www.tippmannparts.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=820&categoryID=60 - here . the only thing that is missing in the kit is the QEV.



-------------
"While invisible, I see and destroy."


Posted By: flatlandpercy
Date Posted: 04 April 2006 at 2:31am
'topic very helpful to me.'
thangow, i learned just what i needed from this and more.

-------------
Custom Pro Black
BT Sealed Bolt System
R/T
Cyclone Feed
Ricochet R5 Hopper with
silencing mod
16" J&J Ceramic Barrel
Palmer Stabilizer Male w Gauge
Sanded 2X Trigger to stick
Red Dot 1X32mm


Posted By: RavenGuard
Date Posted: 04 April 2006 at 11:38am
I'm glad to hear it :D

-------------
Tippmann A-5
Polished Internals
E-Grip
Ape Board
JCS Blade Trigger
QEV
8" Bigshot + Apex
Ricochet R-5 / Tac Cap
Palmers Stabilizer
68/4500 Crossfire


Posted By: rdcisneros3
Date Posted: 04 April 2006 at 12:34pm
Originally posted by 3hb78ftg 3hb78ftg wrote:

Excellent post, If you are interested in buying the parts, I found them available http://www.tippmannparts.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=820&categoryID=60 - here . the only thing that is missing in the kit is the QEV.

Also missing the barbs.



-------------
Donny Cisneros


Posted By: ETRNL2
Date Posted: 05 April 2006 at 4:20am

I found the parts i needed thanks o this thread..

Thanks Raven... now i gotta do is wait to leave Iraq...



-------------
"so u say your Japanese?? We Converted..."

"Live for something rather than die for nothing."-George Patton
http://www.WWIJAA.com - http://www.WWIJAA.com


Posted By: 3hb78ftg
Date Posted: 25 April 2006 at 6:06pm

This post is great. I would however, like to make a small addition. The link tyo the 1/8 line is incorrect. The correct part number is http://www.clippard.com/store/byo_tubing/?sku=URH1-0804-BLT-050 - URH1-0804-BLT-050 .



-------------
"While invisible, I see and destroy."


Posted By: drewp
Date Posted: 25 April 2006 at 10:02pm
could i just install the r/t for now then later one make it super r/t


Posted By: drewp
Date Posted: 25 April 2006 at 10:11pm
will the super r/t work with an tippmann exspasion chamber. and at tippmannparts.com  i think iam going to order that kit, but whats missing in the kit besides qev which iam going to need to install. some said barbs iam not sure tho and what are barbs? is this upgrade worth the 30 bucks plus response trigger 


Posted By: paintballinbill
Date Posted: 25 April 2006 at 10:22pm

if i call them, do i need to have my gun registered? because i bought my gun used, and i don't have any warranty for the gun....

also, can i use any QEV, or does it have to be the one you specified? because i was thinking of using one for an ion or some other gun. are all QEV's created equal or not?



-------------
98 Custom
milled;painted;J&J Ceramic;X-Chamber;R/T;Cyclone.


Posted By: paintballinbill
Date Posted: 26 April 2006 at 7:57pm

*bump*

is there any way to sticky this thread?



-------------
98 Custom
milled;painted;J&J Ceramic;X-Chamber;R/T;Cyclone.


Posted By: FarSeer
Date Posted: 26 April 2006 at 11:57pm
Nice post I found exactly what I needed thanks to this post. How are
you going to get this stickied I wonder?

-------------
http://tbish.webs.com/tippy.html - My E-Bolted 98


Posted By: You Wont See Me
Date Posted: 27 April 2006 at 12:41am
By editing his post and stickying it......

-------------
A-5
E-Grip
JCS Dual Trigger
DOP X-CORE 8 stage x-chamber
Lapco Bigshot 14" Beadblasted

Optional setup:
R/T
Dead on Blade trigger


Posted By: drewp
Date Posted: 27 April 2006 at 9:38pm
why doent you just go to countysports.com and just buy palmer pursuit shop a-5 qev kit then just ordering seperate things. i have e grip and run on cp2. and there are low pressure and high pressure qev which one do i need.


Posted By: drewp
Date Posted: 27 April 2006 at 10:32pm
ok i was looking at plamer qev kit and it comes with everything exspect the qev its self. i fined that retarded, and they do the same at tippmannparts.com, also for the qev part itsself what should the psi be because when i looked at the part is said 500 psi MAX does that seem about right? and  for qev and for 9 dollars is that pricey or is that normal price


Posted By: 3hb78ftg
Date Posted: 30 April 2006 at 10:52am

Originally posted by drewp drewp wrote:

could i just install the r/t for now then later one make it super r/t

Yes.



-------------
"While invisible, I see and destroy."


Posted By: 3hb78ftg
Date Posted: 30 April 2006 at 11:02am
Originally posted by paintballinbill paintballinbill wrote:

if i call them, do i need to have my gun registered? because i bought my gun used, and i don't have any warranty for the gun....

also, can i use any QEV, or does it have to be the one you specified? because i was thinking of using one for an ion or some other gun. are all QEV's created equal or not?

If you are referring to Tippmann, NO, just tell them that you are considering switching from CO2 and and ask if any changes have to be made to the marker. They will tell you no and to use a HPA tank. you will then tell them that you have tried this and the RT works fine but the cyclone will not feed. They will then inform you that you will be sent upgrade parts in the mail. The parts that they will send will not be complete. (at least in my case) I had to buy the QEV and barb (which were my intentions anyway) from a local Clippard dealer here in Puerto Rico. The piece of hose was free since the dealer used to play paintball years back and freaked out when he saw my marker with all of the mods that I have.



-------------
"While invisible, I see and destroy."


Posted By: RavenGuard
Date Posted: 30 April 2006 at 9:13pm
Originally posted by 3hb78ftg 3hb78ftg wrote:

Originally posted by paintballinbill paintballinbill wrote:

if i call them, do i need to have my gun registered? because i bought my gun used, and i don't have any warranty for the gun....

also, can i use any QEV, or does it have to be the one you specified? because i was thinking of using one for an ion or some other gun. are all QEV's created equal or not?

If you are referring to Tippmann, NO, just tell them that you are considering switching from CO2 and and ask if any changes have to be made to the marker. They will tell you no and to use a HPA tank. you will then tell them that you have tried this and the RT works fine but the cyclone will not feed. They will then inform you that you will be sent upgrade parts in the mail. The parts that they will send will not be complete. (at least in my case) I had to buy the QEV and barb (which were my intentions anyway) from a local Clippard dealer here in Puerto Rico. The piece of hose was free since the dealer used to play paintball years back and freaked out when he saw my marker with all of the mods that I have.



same thing happened to me.  And no, this won't be stickied, a moderator asked me to put it into the upgrading sticky thingy and it should be at the end of it.


-------------
Tippmann A-5
Polished Internals
E-Grip
Ape Board
JCS Blade Trigger
QEV
8" Bigshot + Apex
Ricochet R-5 / Tac Cap
Palmers Stabilizer
68/4500 Crossfire


Posted By: CHUNGENILE
Date Posted: 01 May 2006 at 1:12pm

Originally posted by drewp drewp wrote:

why doent you just go to countysports.com and just buy palmer pursuit shop a-5 qev kit then just ordering seperate things. i have e grip and run on cp2. and there are low pressure and high pressure qev which one do i need.

 

The low pressure QEV kit come with 3/32 barbs and hose. The High pressure QEV kit comes with 1/16 barbs and hose. To make super RT you need 1/8 hoses and barbs. So if you are plan making super RT neither kit will work for you. Just buy the QEV by itself and buy a 1/8 barb and some 1/8 hose.



-------------
A-5
egrip WAS BOARD
QEV
Palmers Stab
LPK
Ricochet Hopper
Polished Internals
Crossfire 68 4500
Lapco Bigshot
JCS Trigger

Remoteline
red dot
Apex
Empire 11 piece barrel kit
Adj stock


Posted By: CHUNGENILE
Date Posted: 01 May 2006 at 1:26pm

Originally posted by drewp drewp wrote:

ok i was looking at plamer qev kit and it comes with everything exspect the qev its self. i fined that retarded, and they do the same at tippmannparts.com, also for the qev part itself what should the psi be because when i looked at the part is said 500 psi MAX does that seem about right? and  for qev and for 9 dollars is that pricey or is that normal price

500 psi is fine. $9 is about the going price of an average QEV. Plamers however do sell a new QEV for $20 I believe, it is suppose to be able to activate at lower psi. This might help when you are running low on air or if you have a low pressure kit on your gun. You could also (if you have a regulator on your gun) turn down your regulator and be able to operate your marker at lower psi.

Also if you are planing on buying a QEV it would be a good idea to buy the adjustable one from Palmers or else your QEV might face the wrong direction and you would have to put little o-rings on it.



-------------
A-5
egrip WAS BOARD
QEV
Palmers Stab
LPK
Ricochet Hopper
Polished Internals
Crossfire 68 4500
Lapco Bigshot
JCS Trigger

Remoteline
red dot
Apex
Empire 11 piece barrel kit
Adj stock


Posted By: Panda_1
Date Posted: 02 May 2006 at 4:52am

ok, i understand and agree with upgrading the banjo fittings and lines for the cyclone feeder, now my question is.... what do i need to order to go from the gun to the feeder? which fitting specifically, is it just a 1/8 90degree banjo fitting with 10/32 thread? would homedepot or lowes have this? also, what is the techinical name for the QEV and where can i get the line from locally?



Posted By: CHUNGENILE
Date Posted: 03 May 2006 at 11:31am
Originally posted by Panda_1 Panda_1 wrote:

ok, i understand and agree with upgrading the banjo fittings and lines for the cyclone feeder, now my question is.... what do i need to order to go from the gun to the feeder? which fitting specifically, is it just a 1/8 90degree banjo fitting with 10/32 thread? would homedepot or lowes have this? also, what is the techinical name for the QEV and where can i get the line from locally?

I don't understand your question clearly but let me try anyways.

It depends if you have Egrip or RT. If you have Egrip you need a 90 degree banjo running from the gun to the QEV (which is connected to your cyclone). Now to determine your hose and barb size. If you have a Low Pressure Kit on your gun it is recommended that you go with a bigger hose. You can buy the LP QEV kit (barbs and hose are 3/32) from Palmers which I believe will come with everything you need or you can do like I did and get everything 1/8 so you have bigger hoses.

If you have RT and already have the LP hose kit from Tippmann than all you need is the QEV, a 1/8 barb, and a small piece of 1/8 hose. Maybe a file too. Screw the barb into the QEV and run the hose to the 1/8 banjo T that Tippmann provided. Barbs my be too long so just grab your file and file them down. Keep in mind when buying parts to get everything is 10/32 thread. 

QEV stands for Quick Exhaust Valve. Home Depot or Lowes will not have what you are looking for. Find a local Clippard dealer http://www.clippard.com/distributors/ - http://www.clippard.com/distributors/ .



-------------
A-5
egrip WAS BOARD
QEV
Palmers Stab
LPK
Ricochet Hopper
Polished Internals
Crossfire 68 4500
Lapco Bigshot
JCS Trigger

Remoteline
red dot
Apex
Empire 11 piece barrel kit
Adj stock


Posted By: RavenGuard
Date Posted: 03 May 2006 at 11:28pm
no standard hardware stores will have any of this.  Like said above and in my post, look for a clippard distributor.

Thanks to whoever stickied this :D


-------------
Tippmann A-5
Polished Internals
E-Grip
Ape Board
JCS Blade Trigger
QEV
8" Bigshot + Apex
Ricochet R-5 / Tac Cap
Palmers Stabilizer
68/4500 Crossfire


Posted By: warhead
Date Posted: 07 May 2006 at 8:58pm
this post sucks and so do you ravengaurd i hope you die  

-------------
CCI - VSC Phantom - Tiger Stripe Anno

CCI - Duckslide Dropout Phantom


Posted By: RavenGuard
Date Posted: 11 May 2006 at 7:30am
Originally posted by warhead warhead wrote:

this post sucks and so do you ravengaurd i hope you die  


*Shakes head*

Your fireteam leader status has been revoked :P


-------------
Tippmann A-5
Polished Internals
E-Grip
Ape Board
JCS Blade Trigger
QEV
8" Bigshot + Apex
Ricochet R-5 / Tac Cap
Palmers Stabilizer
68/4500 Crossfire


Posted By: dark assassin
Date Posted: 16 May 2006 at 4:19pm
okay i gte everything except where can i get the parts all in one package??? ive looked just about everywhere

i called tippman and asked them and they told me to go to some Eclipse site???

-------------
It's like a new pair o underwear, at first it's constrictive, but then it becomes a part of you."

      -Garth


Posted By: 3hb78ftg
Date Posted: 20 May 2006 at 10:57am

Originally posted by warhead warhead wrote:

this post sucks and so do you ravengaurd i hope you die  

everyone has the right to be stupid every once in a while, but some just abuse the privilege.



-------------
"While invisible, I see and destroy."


Posted By: RavenGuard
Date Posted: 21 May 2006 at 3:32pm
Originally posted by dark assassin dark assassin wrote:

okay i gte everything except where can i get the parts all in one package??? ive looked just about everywhere

i called tippman and asked them and they told me to go to some Eclipse site???


As far as i know you cannot get it in one package.  Geez, i listed where to get everything and you still want more?

STOP BEING LAZY AND MAKING ME WORK HARDER! :P


-------------
Tippmann A-5
Polished Internals
E-Grip
Ape Board
JCS Blade Trigger
QEV
8" Bigshot + Apex
Ricochet R-5 / Tac Cap
Palmers Stabilizer
68/4500 Crossfire


Posted By: tecumseh
Date Posted: 03 June 2006 at 12:04pm
rofl but great thread raven guard

-------------
what?


Posted By: RavenGuard
Date Posted: 03 June 2006 at 12:07pm
Originally posted by tecumseh tecumseh wrote:

rofl but great thread raven guard


Merci :)


-------------
Tippmann A-5
Polished Internals
E-Grip
Ape Board
JCS Blade Trigger
QEV
8" Bigshot + Apex
Ricochet R-5 / Tac Cap
Palmers Stabilizer
68/4500 Crossfire


Posted By: UglyBoy
Date Posted: 06 June 2006 at 12:53pm

Hey RG

Thanx for this post I went and got my MEV and Barb from the local clippard dealer ...

I put a filter on the open end so not to get any dirt or paint in it . Festo product



-------------
Tippmann A-5
Flatline / 14" Progressive
E Grip
Double Trigger
48 3000 Psi
Clippard QEV


Posted By: irish_guy
Date Posted: 06 June 2006 at 6:44pm
What is the fastest bps you can obtain from the SR/T + QEV mod? I just got my parts today and it's gonna be a while before I can get to a chrono.


Posted By: RavenGuard
Date Posted: 10 June 2006 at 1:36pm
It's been unbelievably fast for me, but only with co2.  With air, it's been as good as a regular r/t.

Using co2, I'm sure I reached 20bps.


-------------
Tippmann A-5
Polished Internals
E-Grip
Ape Board
JCS Blade Trigger
QEV
8" Bigshot + Apex
Ricochet R-5 / Tac Cap
Palmers Stabilizer
68/4500 Crossfire


Posted By: phil_stl
Date Posted: 13 June 2006 at 2:46pm
Originally posted by 3hb78ftg 3hb78ftg wrote:

This post is great. I would however, like to make a small addition. The link tyo the 1/8 line is incorrect. The correct part number is http://www.clippard.com/store/byo_tubing/?sku=URH1-0804-BLT-050 - URH1-0804-BLT-050 .

Okay so I'm buying the RT Hose and Fittings Upgrade Kit
(Item number: RTUP) off of Tippmannparts.com.  It comes with :
(2) 20-19 1/8" Hoses
(1) 02-102 1/8" Banjo T Fitting
(1) 02-103 1/8" Flow Control Valve

Here's the link to the page if you want to see it: http://www.tippmannparts.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=820&categoryID=60 - http://www.tippmannparts.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.pr odInfo&productID=820&categoryID=60

Then I was going to get the

- http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=MEV-2 - Clippard MEV
- http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=CT4-PKG - Pack of 1/8" barbs
- http://www.clippard.com/store/byo_tubing/?strSize=URH1-0402&strColor=BKS&strLength=50&sku=URH1-0402-BKS-050 - 1/8" ID Line

But the quote above says I should get the item #URH1-0804-BLT-050 instead of the item #URH1-0402-BKS-050.

The difference is that the one in the quote above #URH1-0804-BLT-050  is more expensive ($24.58 instead of $12.60) but it goes from 1/4" O.D. & 1/8" I.D. instead of the cheaper one that was posted at the start of this topic from RavenGuard #URH1-0402-BKS-050 which is only 1/8" O.D. & 1/16" I.D.

Here are the links to the cheaper one and the more expensive one:

http://www.clippard.com/store/byo_tubing/?strSize=URH1-0402&strColor=BKS&strLength=50&sku=URH1-0402-BKS-050 - http://www.clippard.com/store/byo_tubing/?strSize=URH1-0402& amp;strColor=BKS&strLength=50&sku=URH1-0402-BKS-050

http://www.clippard.com/store/byo_tubing/?sku=URH1-0804-BLT-050 - http://www.clippard.com/store/byo_tubing/?sku=URH1-0804-BLT- 050  

so which one am I supposed to buy for this to work?



Posted By: Anxiety
Date Posted: 29 June 2006 at 2:22pm
ok buy the second one.. the more expensive one.. i just bought everything from the links that the guy put up in the first post and the first link you have is to a 1/16" hose just like the one you already have.. what the O.D. and I.D. means is inside diameter and outside diameter.. if it says 1/8" OD & 1/16" ID then its the wrong thing.. it should say 1/4" OD & 1/8" ID.. TRUST ME


Posted By: RavenGuard
Date Posted: 04 July 2006 at 10:39pm
Originally posted by Anxiety Anxiety wrote:

ok buy the second one.. the more expensive one.. i just bought everything from the links that the guy put up in the first post and the first link you have is to a 1/16" hose just like the one you already have.. what the O.D. and I.D. means is inside diameter and outside diameter.. if it says 1/8" OD & 1/16" ID then its the wrong thing.. it should say 1/4" OD & 1/8" ID.. TRUST ME


You are correct sir, you want 1/8" ID.




-------------
Tippmann A-5
Polished Internals
E-Grip
Ape Board
JCS Blade Trigger
QEV
8" Bigshot + Apex
Ricochet R-5 / Tac Cap
Palmers Stabilizer
68/4500 Crossfire


Posted By: Crazystick
Date Posted: 11 July 2006 at 9:19am
where do you get the o rings from that go between QEV and cyclone feed?


Posted By: casper8x
Date Posted: 11 July 2006 at 9:04pm
Originally posted by Crazystick Crazystick wrote:

where do you get the o rings from that go between QEV and cyclone feed?


http://www.clippard.com/store/display.asp?dept_id=4002 - http://www.clippard.com/store/display.asp?dept_id=4002



-------------
Milled & Cut 98Custom
A.P.E. Board
Polished Int.
Palmer's Stab.
Apex mounted on C.P. Classic
Center-Fed Halo B


Posted By: RavenGuard
Date Posted: 12 July 2006 at 9:55pm
Originally posted by Crazystick Crazystick wrote:

where do you get the o rings from that go between QEV and cyclone feed?


off of the extra barbs you'll get in the package.


-------------
Tippmann A-5
Polished Internals
E-Grip
Ape Board
JCS Blade Trigger
QEV
8" Bigshot + Apex
Ricochet R-5 / Tac Cap
Palmers Stabilizer
68/4500 Crossfire


Posted By: Crazystick
Date Posted: 24 July 2006 at 7:06pm
ok. I have this nicely setup already. Unfortunately, I wanna get a LPK and was wondering if the clippard QEV will work(Since I already have it) .. or should get the palmers QEV? since I think i read that it is better

I currently am switchin over to HPA - have the palmers stabilizer+ crossfire 68/4500 PSI tank...


Posted By: Crazystick
Date Posted: 24 July 2006 at 11:44pm
I guess a better question or better defined would be ...

One thing I think people failed to specify
was maybe the clippard dealer parts.. mainly the QEV they recommended in the super RT mod

I currently have the clippard QEV installed.
But was wondering what difference if any... does the following have to do with my particular setup


If I am going HPA .. with RT...and currently getting LPK with Super RT installed(clippard QEV +rest from tippmann parts) Do I need the Palmer QEV..

The part.. below
Palmer QEV part# PNEU053  (it's called  QEV 10-32 Swivel Lock)
has a rating of 300 PSI..

and could you explain to me the difference between that
https://palmer-pursuit.com/ecom/product_info.php/products_ id/424?osCsid=22dbb8ccd3b6b50df8c1c54e5b82fc9e
High Flow QEV 10-32 Swivel Lock
[PNEU056] -300 psi max

VS


QEV 10-32
[PNEU051] - 500 PSI MAX
https://palmer-pursuit.com/ecom/product_info.php/cPath/30_ 33/products_id/182?osCsid=22dbb8ccd3b6b50df8c1c54e5b82fc9e


Posted By: RavenGuard
Date Posted: 25 July 2006 at 7:05pm
The only difference is the Palmers will be more durable, but it's probably not worth doing, especially since you already have the clippard one.

A pretty low pressure (in paintball terms) actually makes it to the cyclone, so it'll be fine if it's only tolerant to something like 150psi.


-------------
Tippmann A-5
Polished Internals
E-Grip
Ape Board
JCS Blade Trigger
QEV
8" Bigshot + Apex
Ricochet R-5 / Tac Cap
Palmers Stabilizer
68/4500 Crossfire


Posted By: Crazystick
Date Posted: 04 August 2006 at 1:39am
Orifice LPK part ... Tippmann part #02-102

I actually called them and asked. I was told that it does what was said earlier ...  increase air pressure and decrease volume of air passing thru. I have the clippard QEV with 1/8" fitting and hose and cant seem to properly get it on. The Orifice is longer than the area between the barb tips(between gun output and QEV input)
Here are some pics...

Orifice

The Orifice is between QEV and T


And what I plan on doing is making another one of these. I work at a place with a machine shop. I know not all of us have that luxury. But I will write down some dimensions of what I got. Good luck to anyone else trying this.

Tippmann customer service said it wasnt necessary(orifice) but if you were havin cyclone starvin issues then you would want to add the orifice in setup


Posted By: RavenGuard
Date Posted: 25 August 2006 at 2:48pm
you could also just use the 1/16" hose instead of the 1/8"...

You would just need to replace the bajo t with a 1/8" - 1/16" and it would probably be the same.


-------------
Tippmann A-5
Polished Internals
E-Grip
Ape Board
JCS Blade Trigger
QEV
8" Bigshot + Apex
Ricochet R-5 / Tac Cap
Palmers Stabilizer
68/4500 Crossfire


Posted By: coopers
Date Posted: 08 September 2006 at 12:30pm
I read tutorial and I'm very gretefull for all the information, but the only thing I'm missing is the 1/8" Flow Control Adjuster, can you give me the part number from Clippard that I need, because when you search their site for a Flow control adjuster they don't give me any results but search for Flow control valve and they don't give me enough information on the valves for me to feel confortable ordering it.  By the way I will be using  1/8" tubing. Thank you


Posted By: Tobert
Date Posted: 10 September 2006 at 2:24pm
I have a Tippmann 98 custom with a RT on it, i have heard from some people that the RT and the cyclone together on the same gun have problems working together because they are both drawing air at the same time. Is this true? if so then i want get a cyclone feed system but i will get a electronic hopper.

-------------
Tippmann 98 custom
14" sniper barrel
RT
BT car stock


Posted By: RevoXT
Date Posted: 10 September 2006 at 10:38pm
Tobert... I have both and no problems. Then again I have an A-5..

-------------
Tippmann A-5
-Shocktech Drop
-Super R\T
-QEV
-JCS Powertube
-BT Sight
-Flatline + Metadyne Shroud
-R.I.S. Foregrip
-Stock
-C02 20OZ Anti-Siphon
-X-Core EXP Chamber
-Macro-Line
Tippmann C-3


Posted By: RevoXT
Date Posted: 11 September 2006 at 12:07am
Now I am VERY FRIGGIN annoyed, the clippard site is a POS! It is SLOW and won't even let me friggin' checkout! Does anybody know of a place where I can get this stuff BESIDES the offical store?

-------------
Tippmann A-5
-Shocktech Drop
-Super R\T
-QEV
-JCS Powertube
-BT Sight
-Flatline + Metadyne Shroud
-R.I.S. Foregrip
-Stock
-C02 20OZ Anti-Siphon
-X-Core EXP Chamber
-Macro-Line
Tippmann C-3


Posted By: beavertrapper
Date Posted: 13 September 2006 at 1:55am

What would the total cost of this upgrade? I just ordered the barbs and QEV from palmer and it was like $27. I still need to purchase the kit from Tippmannparts for $20 plus shipping. Do you guys think its more cost effective to purchase an e-grip?

Some here posted that Tippmann wil send FREE upgrade for the R/T (the same $20 kit from tippmann parts) as long as you tell them its for your marker that will no longer be using CO2 but HPA tank. Is that true?



Posted By: pattison
Date Posted: 13 September 2006 at 11:57am
I figured I'd go ahead and post what i believe are better alternative sources for these parts.

http://www.mcmaster.com - McMaster.com (part number first)
5006K34 Abrasion-Resistant Clear PVC Tubing 1/8" Id, 3/16" Od, 1/32" Wall (0.13/ft)
2844K53 Nickel-Plated Brass Barbed Tube Fitting Swvl Tee Barb X Unf X Barb for (2.83)
2844K13 Nickel-Plated Brass Barbed Tube Fitting Barb X Unf Male for 1/8" Tube Id, (0.83 x2)
9452K14 Buna-N O-Ring AS568A Dash Number 006, Packs of 100 (Same as (2.17) - Optional

Countysports.com
http://www.countysports.com/shop/product.php?productid=3258& cat=0&page=1
http://www.countysports.com/shop/product.php?productid=3258&cat=0&page=1 - Palmers QEV $10 + super low shipping

Thats it. I would buy at least 2 ft of hose, and those small #6 orings are completely optional, you get an unusable number of them for 2 usd and i prefer loctite. I also reccomend low-strength-loctite on all 10-32 threads, especially qev->ram. The qev probably won't line up right if you screw it all the way down, so the best way to secure it facing the right direction is loctite.

Follow Up EDIT...
Pics of my <15usd Super RT + qev
Had to grind the barbs on the cyclone side. the barb on the qev had one full barb removed, and the tee was ground slightly. Dremel work. This allows enough clearance. Also, getting the old barb out of the rt flow control valve was a pain. I actually tore the barb off completely and had to take a dremel cutting disk and slot it so I could unscrew it w/ a flathead. Dang red loctite.
I have to say this is a must-have for hpa.

http://www.palmer-pursuit.com/a5qev.htm - This is a useful page about the palmers qev. Especially the highlighted green part. The palmers qev is adjustable if it doesn't work.



-------------
Eat The Brisket


Posted By: Fenrirshaman
Date Posted: 08 October 2006 at 12:21pm
Thanks Ravenguard for a great tutorial.  I found a clippard dealer by me and got all the pieces, cant wait to  put it together and start shooting people!

-------------
98c -
Flatline / JJ 14" Cer. barrel
RT kit
Cyclone Feed System
Rufus Dawg Wicked Bolt
Collapsible Foldable Stock
32 degrees remote line
Other Necessities (red dot, sling, bipod, Rocket Cock II)


Posted By: Fenrirshaman
Date Posted: 08 October 2006 at 12:25pm
and another thing, i was talking to  the rep and she explained to me the difference between a QEV and an MEV for all you who are wondering or are thinking they are the same thing...a QEV is bigger and uses a bigger release allowing it to release the air quicker than a standard MEV...but does anyone know if this is really necessary, or does the MEV cycle air out fast enough as it is?  I noticed Ravenguard used a Clippard MEV (Clippard doesnt make QEV's small enough for paintball guns).  I figured the MEV would cycle fast enough and a QEV would just be overkill, so i just got a MEV.

-------------
98c -
Flatline / JJ 14" Cer. barrel
RT kit
Cyclone Feed System
Rufus Dawg Wicked Bolt
Collapsible Foldable Stock
32 degrees remote line
Other Necessities (red dot, sling, bipod, Rocket Cock II)


Posted By: ShadowRide
Date Posted: 09 October 2006 at 12:41am
would the High flow Qev from Palmer work fine without a lpk?


Posted By: Fenrirshaman
Date Posted: 09 October 2006 at 10:46pm
you dont need a lpk, and the QEV from palmer should work fine, or you could just do clippard's mev either or :)

-------------
98c -
Flatline / JJ 14" Cer. barrel
RT kit
Cyclone Feed System
Rufus Dawg Wicked Bolt
Collapsible Foldable Stock
32 degrees remote line
Other Necessities (red dot, sling, bipod, Rocket Cock II)


Posted By: metalman
Date Posted: 01 November 2006 at 6:21pm


1.) Go http://www.clippard.com/establish_locale.asp?strRedirect=/distributors/Default.asp - HERE
2.) Select your country.
3.) Enter other information it asks for (zip/postal etc.)
4.) Scroll down, and information on the nearest dealer will be displayed.

Now go get it tuned, and have some fun!

 

I orderded exactly the part number that were provided. The parts I received had the same numbers. The T banjo does not have a screw head its solid? The hose is too small? The exhaust side of the QEV, does it need to be plugged? If so with what. Last,This is called a MEV not a QEV...whats the difference? You have to buy these parts in multipul per package which costed aboy 10 or 12 bucks more than a Palmer QEV. is there any advantage over the Palmer than this one. If not, dont waste your time or extra money. Go with a Palmer. IMO Thanks in advance
[/QUOTE]



Posted By: octnix
Date Posted: 03 November 2006 at 6:16am
I'm very interested in using this mod.  I just have one question however:

Does this mod allow the R/T and/or Cyclone to consume more air?  I noticed that instead of the air going back to the marker, it is released via the QEV.


-------------
http://www.pheera.com/ - Pheera


Posted By: pattison
Date Posted: 08 November 2006 at 9:20am
the qev should not waste any air, as all it does is provide a shortcut for exhaust air.
the high flow hoses, in theory, should take more air though. it might be a negligible amount, and i might be wrong. i don't have the time or money to waste paintballs and air in an efficiency test. maybe a reball field owner could settle the old "rt consumes more gas" argument with some hard data. wouldn't cost him much at all.

-------------
Eat The Brisket


Posted By: Stang909
Date Posted: 29 November 2006 at 7:50pm
anybody who has done this to a 98 it would be much appericiated if you would put up some pics i would like to see what it is susposed to look like

-------------



Posted By: RavenGuard
Date Posted: 25 December 2006 at 1:45pm
Originally posted by beavertrapper beavertrapper wrote:

What would the total cost of this upgrade? I just ordered the barbs and QEV from palmer and it was like $27. I still need to purchase the kit from Tippmannparts for $20 plus shipping. Do you guys think its more cost effective to purchase an e-grip?

Some here posted that Tippmann wil send FREE upgrade for the R/T (the same $20 kit from tippmann parts) as long as you tell them its for your marker that will no longer be using CO2 but HPA tank. Is that true?



My super r/t setup cost me  about $10 CND for all the extra parts.



Originally posted by Fenrirshaman Fenrirshaman wrote:

and another thing, i was talking to  the rep and she explained to me the difference between a QEV and an MEV for all you who are wondering or are thinking they are the same thing...a QEV is bigger and uses a bigger release allowing it to release the air quicker than a standard MEV...but does anyone know if this is really necessary, or does the MEV cycle air out fast enough as it is?  I noticed Ravenguard used a Clippard MEV (Clippard doesnt make QEV's small enough for paintball guns).  I figured the MEV would cycle fast enough and a QEV would just be overkill, so i just got a MEV.


Actually the Clippard MEV is a quick exhaust valve, but it's much smaller than those usually used on cylinders, thus it is titled MEV to show it is smaller.  I guess MQEV would have overcomplicated things, but the "MEV" and "QEV" work exactly the same, the MEV is simply smaller.  (you can look at the schematics)

And pattison, are those ball bearings?


-------------
Tippmann A-5
Polished Internals
E-Grip
Ape Board
JCS Blade Trigger
QEV
8" Bigshot + Apex
Ricochet R-5 / Tac Cap
Palmers Stabilizer
68/4500 Crossfire


Posted By: phil_stl
Date Posted: 06 January 2007 at 2:22pm

Originally posted by Stang909 Stang909 wrote:

anybody who has done this to a 98 it would be much appericiated if you would put up some pics i would like to see what it is susposed to look like

Maybe I waited too long, but I had exams to study for.  Anyway I figured I get you some pics.  Hopefully they help.  



Posted By: kluve
Date Posted: 20 January 2007 at 7:37pm

what is the purpose with the orifice? do I need to put it in there or can i leave it out.

My cyclone wont cycle and i cant figure out why.

i have a 98c w/ super rt and cyclone any suggestions



Posted By: USNCV63
Date Posted: 02 February 2007 at 9:40am

I've just recently done some upgrades to my A-5 and now i'm having some problems. 

1.  I sanded down the inside were the bolts are with 1500 grit finishing sand paper and polished it with Mother's aluminum polish for a mirror finish. 

2.  Installed the Vortex Mod with Lightening rod, taking my time to do it also ( about 1 1/2 hour) making sure i got everything right.

3.  Last, i did the Super RT Mod with the Clippard QEV.  BTW, great instrucions RavenGuard

I oiled the inside with marker oil then put the gun back together.  I was testing out the response trigger, dialing it in, and now i only get a short burst of 2 or 3 shots.  I took it to my local dealer and we spent almost 3 hours trying to find the problem.  There was a bad O-ring were the trigger cylinder is and also the O-ring on the bolt, we replaced both of them and the problem was still there.  We tried putting on an Egrip and it worked fine, which i assume would tell me that the O-rings inside the body of the gun were ok.  What we noticed was that the CO2 was freezing up after about 2-3 minutes of use with a fresh bottle of CO2 then the response trigger would not work, as a matter of fact the T banjo fitting was getting white with frost on it and the expansion chamber would be freezing.  We tried replacing the super RT with the stock 1/16 inch hose and fittings and still had the same problem.  Also tried replacing the trigger cylinder and that didn't fix it. 

Could i have possibly applied too much oil before i put th gun back together??  I don't believe i sanded down too much, kinda hard to do with 1500 grit, everything inside seems to be snug.  Any suggestions on what to try next would be greatly appriciated, Thanks. 



Posted By: phil_stl
Date Posted: 02 February 2007 at 11:52am
Ya I had the same problem... except I sanded my internals with grit 660.

...grit 1500 holy crap you could get more off by rubbing your tumbs against it. lol.

Anyway I did have the same problem.  Sometimes my RT would just hit the back of the trigger and bounce back in not even set the RT off.   So there couldn't have been enough air pressure.

I took it all off and gave up for six months and then I put it back on and tried it out again and made sure I had proper orings (ones bigger than Clippard gives you - or you could pile all of the Clippard barb o-rings on top of each other but I suggest finding slightly bigger/thicker o-rings).  That made sure there was no leaks and it started working great. 

You also have to spend a good amount of time actually dialing it in.  Turn the ROF screw 1/4 of a turn then test, turn the ROF screw 1/4 of a turn then test, turn the ROF screw 1/4 of a turn then test etc. until it shoots like mad.

Good luck



Posted By: USNCV63
Date Posted: 02 February 2007 at 4:16pm

Phil

Do you know what kind of o-rings you used or what they are made for?  Specifics is what i'm looking for there so that i can go out and find some too.  I did notice that even by putting on the extra o-rings you still do not get a good tight seel.  As a matter of fact it was still a little loose last night when we were testing it but now i have it really cranked on there. And was your's freezing up at the T barb also?  Last night when we were dialing it in it was working until it would freeze up in about 2 minutes, then just a short 2-3 burst no matter where you dialed it in at.

I was talking to someone at work today about this and described my problem to him.  He was thinking of possibly drilling out the hole of the T barb that goes into the gun itself.  Let me try to refrase that, not drill the hole in the T barb but in the gun, allowing more CO2 to travel into there, thinking this could be the problem, or that i did in fact over do it with the oil and that hole is gummed up. 

He also called Tippmann tech support and they told me to add an expansion chamber, which i already have, or switch to HPA or Nitro.  I'm not even sure where the closest place to get either of those filled is so that is probably out. 

1500 grit, it's the way to go man, takes about 2 hours but it's worth itthat and some mother's aluminum polish which really takes off the over spray very well.  Gets a good mirror finish to it.

Thanks for the help, much appriciated



Posted By: phil_stl
Date Posted: 02 February 2007 at 7:42pm

I don't know what my o-rings are made of.

I heard Buna and nitrile aren't good with C02.  The best is Urethane but I don't know if you could find any Urethane ones that small.  Buna or Nitrile ones might work but eessh.

What other material is o-rings made of?  Anyone can answer this.

Yes my t barb does freeze up.  HPA is the best solution.  I run an ex-chamber antisiphoned tank or exchamber with remote and a non anti siphoned tank that is standing upwards so no CO2 is getting into it.  But it will still frost and the exchamber will still gets freezing cold.

Drilling a bigger hole in the gun??  What?? The T-fitting screws into the powertube.  So you'd have to drill the powertube... making that hole any bigger would wreck the powertube as in the fitting won't screw into it any more. 

Grit 1500??  I spent at least 1.5 hours on mine but first I used steel wool to get all the hard stuff off!  Then grit 660, anything over 800 seams useless to me.  Did you actually get the rough finish off?  If so wow, you must have been scrubbing those intenz like crazy, or have really strong hands and arms.  I did you mothers mag polish too btw.

The problem could be the oil.  I only use the best: "Kermode Concepts 100% Synthetic Trouble Free Gun Oil" it won't slush and it's even FDA approved so if you're thisty .  Anyway what oil do you use?



Posted By: USNCV63
Date Posted: 02 February 2007 at 8:56pm

I was wondering where you got your o-rings and if possibly a paintball shop would have them.  I also run and ex-chamber antisiphoned tank and get the same problem. 

Never mind the drilling a bigger hole into the power tube idea, i didn't realize it was set up that way, i was thinking something different.  I should have looked before i typed.

Yeah i had to sand like hell to get all the rough parts out but it worked, i wanted to go with the 1500 so there would be less of a chance of scaring the insides, and then yes i used mothers mag polish, it worked great. 

The oil i use is Extreme Rage Paintball Marker Oil.  Made by PMI, resists freezing, 100% synthetic.  Sounds ok to me.

I'm going to give it another run tomorrow and see what happens after putting it back together again.  I'll probably strip it down and wipe out some of the oil thinking that i possibly put too much in.  That's the only thing i can think of.  The QEV is on there very tight now so that shouldn't be an issue. 

One other question, where is RavenGuard on this subject, he seems to be the guru (sp?) on the super RT. 



Posted By: phil_stl
Date Posted: 02 February 2007 at 10:51pm

I honestly don't know were I got the o-rings.  The o-rings were found from my brothers extra o-rings, parts for ion or something.

I was going to buy a ion o-ring kit on ebay for ions but they were buna and nitrile o-rings so I didn't but maybe they might work.

Yup that mothers mag is great... except for the smell.

Good luck tommorow.

Raven hasn't been around much recently, IDK why not though... maybe school? I figured in the meanwhile I could pick up the slack.



Posted By: USNCV63
Date Posted: 03 February 2007 at 1:18pm

Well Phil here's todays progress report.  None, no progress. 

Tried it out first thing today, and it was working fine until it froze like it was before.  Took it apart, wiped out the inside and did find that the oil was slightly black that i was wiping out.  Took apart the feeder to see how the Vortex Mod was looking and the grease was discolored from the rachet, wiped it clean as best as i could and greased it up again.  I noticed that since i did crank the QEV down tight that the extra o-rings just kinda pushed up so i think i'm going to try and get replacement for it, but i don't think that it is leaking. 

I did notice that the o-ring on the stock is sliced, not sure if that would be a problem with this. 

Should i try turning down the velocity?  I was thinkng about that too.  Through any ideas you have my way, i'm running out of options to check

I'm going to give it a little while and put the 1/16 hose lines and fittings back on later after my CO2 has warmed up. 

I'm thinking i'm going to PM Raven for his opinion and see what he says. 



-------------
A-5
Polished internals
Flatline
16" ThunderPig w/shroud
Vortex Mod w/ lightening rod
Expansion Chamber
Oversized Hopper
3 point sling
MaddMann Spring Set


Posted By: phil_stl
Date Posted: 03 February 2007 at 3:50pm

I have not installed my vortex mod or my lightening rod yet.  You said you spent much time installing it getting it right so I don't think it's that.  (did you use oil on the Vortex mod? or grease like shocker lube or dye lube etc.)

Yes do try turning down the velocity and test some more, then test at different velocities.  (Turning the screw out makes the velocity go higher.  Turning the screw in lowers the velocity).

Getting new o-rings could probably help but I personally don't think that is your problem.

Plus don't worry about the oil looking a little black, it happens.

The o-ring on the stock doesn't matter, I took mine off completely.

Lastly it could just be that you need to keep shooting it more.  I think that was my real problem... the RT takes a bit of time to break in.  If you have shoot over 1000 paintballs then there is definitely a problem.  But maybe you just need to break it all in.



Posted By: USNCV63
Date Posted: 04 February 2007 at 9:55am

I used grease that i got from Napa to use on the Vortex Mod, i checked it out, compared it to shocker lube, and it was ok to use the kind that i got.  I tried turning down the velocity and it didn't really help.  I'm out of CO2 now so i have to wait until tomorrow when i can get some more to test things out.  I've also put the 1/16 hose lines and fittings back on.  I think that the RT is broken in, i've shot atleast 1000 shots with the super response trigger alone.  I also need to get new o-rings for the QEV, i had it that tight that the o-rings are shot now, they were cheap anyway.

I also have a leak in the tube that goes from the trigger assembly to the ex-chamber.  It's been there for a while, sometimes i can get it to stop but now it's just aggrivating so i'm going to get a replacement line for that too.



-------------
A-5
Polished internals
Flatline
16" ThunderPig w/shroud
Vortex Mod w/ lightening rod
Expansion Chamber
Oversized Hopper
3 point sling
MaddMann Spring Set


Posted By: phil_stl
Date Posted: 04 February 2007 at 2:40pm
Shocker Lube is basically just Dow 33.  Napa I don't know what it is.  I've searched and all I can find is called "Napa Oil and Grease".

Make sure you didn't actually use oil or "Oil and Grease" on the Vortex or lightening rod, it strongly recommends against that it must be grease, the best is normally Dow 33 or 35 I think.

Get those new o-rings.

Fix your leak in braided hose (metal wire) going from your ASA to your ex-chamber.  Is that were your leak is coming from?  Do you have a braided hose or is it the macro line hose?

Do you have a Clippard MEV-2 or a QEV (like a Palmers QEV)?
 
Actually it would be better if you showed me a few pictures of what you have and how it's set up that might help. 

But first get those things fixed and worked out and then we can check a few more things off of this list if it still doesn't work afterwards.


Posted By: USNCV63
Date Posted: 04 February 2007 at 3:39pm

I'll take some pictures tonight if i can, i don't have my digital camera right now but i should have it by tomorrow.

The Napa grease i got says Sil-Glyde on the front, non-freezing, non-gumming, weatherproof, i think it should be ok to use.  The only place i used oil was on the lightening rod, the end of it that does not connect to the rachet, but on the end with the o-ring, this is what the directions said. 

I picked up some o-rings from Lowe's today just to try out.  Not so sure what they are made out of but they seem to fit on very well and are thicker.  Also picked up some hose line the will go from the T-barb to the trigger, not sure how else to describe that end.  This seems to also fit very well.  The hose that was there before was just a little too short.

The leak i had was in a macro line, i'll get that fixed tomorrow. 

I have the Clippard QEV, from what i've read either should work fine. 

I did put the 1/16 hose line and fittings on before i ran out of CO2 and the response seemed to be working ok, not fast but it was firing with out stopping like it would normally.

One thing i'm not understanding, are you still having the same problems i am with the super rt?  Freezing up and then not working?  It sounds like you got yours fixed but then in another post you made it sound like you still experience this problem.

I'll do my best to get detailed pics on here by tomorrow.  I've PM'd Raven but haven't heard back from him, but it was only yesterday that i PM'd him.  



-------------
A-5
Polished internals
Flatline
16" ThunderPig w/shroud
Vortex Mod w/ lightening rod
Expansion Chamber
Oversized Hopper
3 point sling
MaddMann Spring Set


Posted By: phil_stl
Date Posted: 04 February 2007 at 7:59pm
Originally posted by USNCV63 USNCV63 wrote:

I'll take some pictures tonight if i can, i don't have my digital camera right now but i should have it by tomorrow.

Great!

The Napa grease i got says Sil-Glyde on the front, non-freezing, non-gumming, weatherproof, i think it should be ok to use.  The only place i used oil was on the lightening rod, the end of it that does not connect to the rachet, but on the end with the o-ring, this is what the directions said.

Yup that all sounds perfectly done.

I picked up some o-rings from Lowe's today just to try out.  Not so sure what they are made out of but they seem to fit on very well and are thicker.  Also picked up some hose line the will go from the T-barb to the trigger, not sure how else to describe that end. 

(the ROF/Rate of Fire fitting) or you could call in the (rear fitting).

This seems to also fit very well.  The hose that was there before was just a little too short.

Great!

The leak i had was in a macro line, i'll get that fixed tomorrow.

Yes this is an important step.  Report back once fixed and tested.

I have the Clippard QEV, from what i've read either should work fine.

(Clippard makes MEV, Palmers makes the QEV) not a big difference though.  The Palmers QEV might be a little faster (let more air out) but I've heard of people that had problems with them.

I did put the 1/16 hose line and fittings on before i ran out of CO2 and the response seemed to be working ok, not fast but it was firing with out stopping like it would normally.

Really?!?  Then that should show that your Vortex and your Lightening rod, and the RT piston inside the gun aren't the cause of the problem.  This should narrow it down to the wider RT hoses itself or the QEV (or maybe your macro line just wasn't acting up when you had the 1/16 hoses on and did during the wider hoses. So we won't count that out just yet). 

How well did you test it with the 1/16 hoses.  Cause we don't want to jump to conclusions that something isn't the problem when it could be.  100 shots at least with those smaller hoses maybe?

One thing i'm not understanding, are you still having the same problems i am with the super rt?  Freezing up and then not working?  It sounds like you got yours fixed but then in another post you made it sound like you still experience this problem.

No, mine is fixed.

I'll do my best to get detailed pics on here by tomorrow.  I've PM'd Raven but haven't heard back from him, but it was only yesterday that i PM'd him. 

K well I'm doing my best in the meanwhile... even responding during the superbowl! Plus I don't know if get the PM anytime soon anyway.



Posted By: Advantage
Date Posted: 05 February 2007 at 4:31pm

Hi all...I just ordered the super R/T fittings/hoses and a palmer's QEV. While I've been waiting for the parts I've been reading many of the past threads concerning the super r/t mod, QEVs, and r/t troubles.

UNSCV63   Is your cyclone working? Is it possible to crank the MEV down too far in where it would interfere with the cyclone? I mention this because Palmer's warns against doing that for their QEV and you mentioned you cranked it down good. I'm not sure if that would have an effect on the R/T or not. Good Luck. I hope my mod goes a little more smoothly. 

Phil_stl   While this board has plenty of questions about troubles with the super r/t mod, I haven't read much feedback on the performance. Is it a night and day difference between super and stock r/t? Is my stock cyclone going to throw fireballs out of it and explode before I do the Vortex mod? Any parts that have been subject to fail? Thanks in advance. 

 



-------------
A5 with somewhat a Super Response trigger,QEV, x chamber, Flatline, JJ ceramic, SP progressive...Powered by old skool CO2


Posted By: phil_stl
Date Posted: 05 February 2007 at 5:10pm
Originally posted by Advantage Advantage wrote:

Hi all...I just ordered the super R/T fittings/hoses and a palmer's QEV. While I've been waiting for the parts I've been reading many of the past threads concerning the super r/t mod, QEVs, and r/t troubles.

UNSCV63   Is your cyclone working? Is it possible to crank the MEV down too far in where it would interfere with the cyclone? I mention this because Palmer's warns against doing that for their QEV and you mentioned you cranked it down good. I'm not sure if that would have an effect on the R/T or not. Good Luck. I hope my mod goes a little more smoothly. 

Not bad advice, but he also needed to make sure the o-rings were thight enough they weren't letting any air out.  But ya too far, well I don't know, maybe... we will get him to back off the MEV.  (But I think with the newer/bigger o-rings he had to anyway). But good advice.

Phil_stl   While this board has plenty of questions about troubles with the super r/t mod, I haven't read much feedback on the performance. Is it a night and day difference between super and stock r/t? Is my stock cyclone going to throw fireballs out of it and explode before I do the Vortex mod? Any parts that have been subject to fail? Thanks in advance. 

The QEV normally does more than the wider hoses from what I've been told but not by much.  I'd say the QEV will give you an extra 3-4 or so bps. The wider hoses (Super R/T mod) might give you 2-3 bps.

So if the max is supposed to be 15 on the stock RT (although some people have hit 17 on the stock RT), the max should be around 23-24 bps with Super RT and QEV.  With Vortex and Lightening Rod, I'd bet you could add a couple more bps to that number.

The main thing is it will make it a lot easier to sweetspot but also to sweetspot at a higher ROF than usual.



Posted By: Advantage
Date Posted: 05 February 2007 at 6:48pm

Phil_stl    I do actually have another question to you and anyone else that tried this mod. I have a theory that the increased space in the hoses and fittings might be able to help in the r/t's ability to function in colder temps. I played last week in 31 degrees F and found my response was not working due to freeze up. Chances are the increased size won't make too much of a difference if any. I'll have to see. Anyone playing in colder temps finding that this mod helps?

Edit: oh I know there will be a whole lot of advice in switching to air but I have plenty of access to CO2 (while air is more of a pain in the butt) and I'm willing to deal with it's shortcomings just want to do it the best I can.   



-------------
A5 with somewhat a Super Response trigger,QEV, x chamber, Flatline, JJ ceramic, SP progressive...Powered by old skool CO2


Posted By: phil_stl
Date Posted: 05 February 2007 at 8:37pm
MY DARN INTERNET!! I had written you an in depth response. I tried to send and I disconnected.  So I'm re-writing.

Originally posted by Advantage Advantage wrote:

Phil_stl    I do actually have another question to you and anyone else that tried this mod. I have a theory that the increased space in the hoses and fittings might be able to help in the r/t's ability to function in colder temps. I played last week in 31 degrees F and found my response was not working due to freeze up. Chances are the increased size won't make too much of a difference if any. I'll have to see. Anyone playing in colder temps finding that this mod helps?

Definitely not!  CO2 is what?  Cold right!!?  Now lets say you put a tank cover on your CO2 tank to keep it warm... what do you think is honestly colder, the cold wind outside or the Freezing cold liquid CO2 inside your CO2 tank?  YUP thats right the CO2 by a long shot.  So let's say you want to put a cover on the CO2 tank to keep the tank warm... would that help?  Heck no, you would just help keep the coldness inside the tank not keep it warm... GET IT?  (sure this warmness vs. coldeness with the tank cover can be argued but the fact is I'm trying to teach you about CO2 so you understand the next thing I tell you)...

K so now that you have that, just think about what the Super RT does... it is supposed to give you a few more bps... how?  Well the hoses are wider right?... what does this mean?  That more COLD CO2 will be traveling at the same time through those hoses.  Do you think having more COLD CO2 is going to help stop your problem... Theoretically the very opposite will happen.

Edit: oh I know there will be a whole lot of advice in switching to air but I have plenty of access to CO2 (while air is more of a pain in the butt) and I'm willing to deal with it's shortcomings just want to do it the best I can.  

So what is the solution other than HPA... get a Palmers Regulator! Some people buy one and never get an HPA tank. So it's the best thing for consistency and getting the most out of your marker in that sense on the market IMO. End of story.  If you can't afford one then get an Expansion Chamber and an anti siphon or remote coil.

By the way adding an anti siphon or remote coil with a Palmer's Regulator will be even more optimal.




Posted By: USNCV63
Date Posted: 05 February 2007 at 9:33pm

Phil

Spent sometime at the paintball shop today working on the gun.  Replaced the macro line and one of it's fittings that seemed to be leaking, still not perfect but i can get it to stop leaking when i need to. 

We were testing it with the 1/16 lines and it seemed slow.  Then started ripping (going into very fast bursts at sudden times).  So he thought it was my rear bolt causing that due to wear.  We checked it and it seemed fine.  Then he replaced the drive spring with a Madd Mann drive spring and WOW what a difference.  Very fast now and the sweet spot seems very easy to find and hold. 

We replaced the hose lines with the 1/8 lines and then the QEV broke.  Remember when i had it cranked down before, well i must have over done it and gave it a hair line fracture on the threads and it broke off right in the feeder cylinder.  So now that is shot.  We replaced it with the regular 1/8th fitting and still the same result, only able to get 2-3 shot bursts no matter where you dialed it in.  So we went with the stock 1/16 hoses and fittings.  Everything seems to be working fine, better even i would say with the new spring.  As far as the QEV, i don't think i will be replacing it.  Everything seems to be working fine now so i'll probably keep it the way it is.  Or atleast until i hear some break through news to make this mod work on my gun.  Which i'm trying to get in touch with some local paintball shop owners and ask if they have dealt with this yet.  So i think i have things narrowed down to the upgrade itself, it's just not working for me.  Everything works with out it but once i put in on there goes my rt.  Just can't get it.

A local Clippard representative called me today, ironic.  I told him what i was attempting to do with my gun and he explained to me in terms that i can't repeat cause it was over my head why this wouldn't work with this gun.  Something about pressure relay and the gun wouldn't function properly, just not designed for it.

Took some pics of my gun but the battery went dead, i'll get them up tomorrow.  Is there anything on the gun you specifically want to see?  I took pics of the lines and everything.

One nice thing is that the guy at the paintball shop is adding HPA to his shop.  Now just buying the bottles.  I'm still not set on HPA, but if i do make that switch i may buy another QEV and give this a try again.

Lastly, hope you didn't miss too much of the superbowl, i know i didn't.  thanks man

Advantage

My cylone has been working the whole time, no problems there.  I don't think it was affected when i cranked down on the QEV.   Lesson be learned, don't crank down on yours too hard like i did mine, i should have been more careful knowing it was brass.  Keep in mind it is difficult to get the QEV to line up with the T barb and still be tight. 

 



-------------
A-5
Polished internals
Flatline
16" ThunderPig w/shroud
Vortex Mod w/ lightening rod
Expansion Chamber
Oversized Hopper
3 point sling
MaddMann Spring Set


Posted By: phil_stl
Date Posted: 06 February 2007 at 11:15am
Originally posted by USNCV63 USNCV63 wrote:

Phil

Spent sometime at the paintball shop today working on the gun.  Replaced the macro line and one of it's fittings that seemed to be leaking, still not perfect but i can get it to stop leaking when i need to. 

I think using braided hose can handle CO2 much better than macro line.  But if you can get it to stop leaking then that's great.

We were testing it with the 1/16 lines and it seemed slow.  Then started ripping (going into very fast bursts at sudden times).  So he thought it was my rear bolt causing that due to wear.  We checked it and it seemed fine.  Then he replaced the drive spring with a Madd Mann drive spring and WOW what a difference.  Very fast now and the sweet spot seems very easy to find and hold. 

Ya what spring do you have in,  I have the maddmann spring kit too I'm wondering if I should use the green one (softer) or the red one (harder).

We replaced the hose lines with the 1/8 lines and then the QEV broke.  Remember when i had it cranked down before, well i must have over done it and gave it a hair line fracture on the threads and it broke off right in the feeder cylinder.  So now that is shot.  We replaced it with the regular 1/8th fitting and still the same result, only able to get 2-3 shot bursts no matter where you dialed it in.  So we went with the stock 1/16 hoses and fittings.  Everything seems to be working fine, better even i would say with the new spring.  As far as the QEV, i don't think i will be replacing it.  Everything seems to be working fine now so i'll probably keep it the way it is.  Or atleast until i hear some break through news to make this mod work on my gun.  Which i'm trying to get in touch with some local paintball shop owners and ask if they have dealt with this yet.  So i think i have things narrowed down to the upgrade itself, it's just not working for me.  Everything works with out it but once i put in on there goes my rt.  Just can't get it.

Well maybe it's an issue with pressure.  Because with wider hoses there can tend to be less pressure and some people have had it when their cyclone feed needs more pressure to work. 

A local Clippard representative called me today, ironic.  I told him what i was attempting to do with my gun and he explained to me in terms that i can't repeat cause it was over my head why this wouldn't work with this gun.  Something about pressure relay and the gun wouldn't function properly, just not designed for it.

It could be, my 98 Custom is doing great though..?!!

Took some pics of my gun but the battery went dead, i'll get them up tomorrow.  Is there anything on the gun you specifically want to see?  I took pics of the lines and everything.

Ya all I wanted to see were the lines.

One nice thing is that the guy at the paintball shop is adding HPA to his shop.  Now just buying the bottles.  I'm still not set on HPA, but if i do make that switch i may buy another QEV and give this a try again.

Okay good deal.

Lastly, hope you didn't miss too much of the superbowl, i know i didn't.  thanks man

Well I only missed one touchdown my team got while I was helping ya.  But I watched most of the first and second half.  Then I had a waterpolo game to go to so I sadly missed the end. oohh well, my team won so I'm happy.



Posted By: Advantage
Date Posted: 06 February 2007 at 4:26pm

phil_stl wrote:

"Definitely not!  CO2 is what?  Cold right!!?  Now lets say you put a tank cover on your CO2 tank to keep it warm... what do you think is honestly colder, the cold wind outside or the Freezing cold liquid CO2 inside your CO2 tank?  YUP thats right the CO2 by a long shot.  So let's say you want to put a cover on the CO2 tank to keep the tank warm... would that help?  Heck no, you would just help keep the coldness inside the tank not keep it warm... GET IT?  (sure this warmness vs. coldeness with the tank cover can be argued but the fact is I'm trying to teach you about CO2 so you understand the next thing I tell you)...

K so now that you have that, just think about what the Super RT does... it is supposed to give you a few more bps... how?  Well the hoses are wider right?... what does this mean?  That more COLD CO2 will be traveling at the same time through those hoses.  Do you think having more COLD CO2 is going to help stop your problem... Theoretically the very opposite will happen."

 

My thinking is that in colder temps liquid CO2 would enter the gun and r/t fittings due to the expansion chambers inability to allow enough time to convert it to gas form. With the smaller hoses/fittings, blockage due to the liquid would happen before it would happen with a diameter twice as big. Then again yes it could allow more liquid to enter the trigger system. I'll have to see for myself. Even if the bps was at a reduced rate it would be an improvement.



-------------
A5 with somewhat a Super Response trigger,QEV, x chamber, Flatline, JJ ceramic, SP progressive...Powered by old skool CO2


Posted By: Advantage
Date Posted: 07 February 2007 at 5:35pm

I just received the r/t upgrade kit from tippmannparts.com and I've got a few issues with it.

 First off, the hose going from the Flow Control Valve to the T-banjo is too short. It is 2 3/4 inches long. It is a kit made for a 98 so maybe their gap is shorter. According to the site it works for the A5.

 Second, the hose from the T banjo to the future QEV has a smaller inside diameter than the other one yet larger than the 1/16". Also it comes with "orafice tube" to insert within that tube that would shrink that space to a 1/16" diameter.

Third, On the Flow Control Valve while the input where the hose is attached is 1/8", The output that goes into the grip is the same as the original fitting (1/16"). On the T banjo the input is 1/8" and on the supplied banjo fitting for the cyclone (to be replaced with the QEV) it is 1/8".

Any fittings that need to be replaced in my setup? Am I correct that I need 1/8" from the T banjo to the QEV? Thanks in advance.      



-------------
A5 with somewhat a Super Response trigger,QEV, x chamber, Flatline, JJ ceramic, SP progressive...Powered by old skool CO2


Posted By: USNCV63
Date Posted: 07 February 2007 at 6:42pm

Advantage

I had some of the same problems, i went to Lowe's and got hose line there that worked.  12 cents for a foot.  I'd bet almost any place like a Lowe's or Home Depot would carry that size hose, or a place that sells fish tanks possibly. 



-------------
A-5
Polished internals
Flatline
16" ThunderPig w/shroud
Vortex Mod w/ lightening rod
Expansion Chamber
Oversized Hopper
3 point sling
MaddMann Spring Set


Posted By: Advantage
Date Posted: 07 February 2007 at 7:20pm

Thanks USNCV63,

After looking at it more, the hose from the T banjo to the fitting in the cyclone is actually the 1/8" id hose. So the hose from the T banjo to the Flow control valve is actually larger than 1/8". Are you using the kit from Tippmannparts.com?



-------------
A5 with somewhat a Super Response trigger,QEV, x chamber, Flatline, JJ ceramic, SP progressive...Powered by old skool CO2


Posted By: USNCV63
Date Posted: 08 February 2007 at 3:55pm
I didn't get my kit from there, i wanted it right away so i bought it from the local pb dealer here.  But i think it's the same kit you got, made for a 98 to add a response trigger.  Let me know how you make out, i'm curious if you can get your's to work like i couldn't

-------------
A-5
Polished internals
Flatline
16" ThunderPig w/shroud
Vortex Mod w/ lightening rod
Expansion Chamber
Oversized Hopper
3 point sling
MaddMann Spring Set


Posted By: Advantage
Date Posted: 08 February 2007 at 7:57pm

USNCV63,

I got my QEV today and installed everything. I stopped at Home Depot and picked up tubing that I found in the plumbing dept. It is larger than 1/8" (.170) and as I found out later not meant to handle much pressure. I put it on, to test out, and I have no leaks. I'm going to see if I can find tubing at a paintball shop tommorow. Using the left over CO2 in my tanks I dry fired and it seems everything is working great. Keep in mind no balls fired yet...but cyclone is working, QEV is venting, and from the little left over CO2 I had I was able to get a r/t rate faster than what I had before (for a few quick bursts). I need more CO2 to see if it was worth it though.

I have no idea if this would make a difference or not but on your T bango is the hole inside the valve lined up with both the hose to the MEV and the hose to the flow adjuster valve?



-------------
A5 with somewhat a Super Response trigger,QEV, x chamber, Flatline, JJ ceramic, SP progressive...Powered by old skool CO2


Posted By: USNCV63
Date Posted: 09 February 2007 at 3:39pm

So that tubing that i suggested didn't work?  I think was working for me, i seemed to have a good fit.  I would almost be willing to bet that the hole inside the T-bango would make a difference.  I thought of that earlier but never entertained the the thought then.  I may have to look.  I don't have a QEV anymore but possibly it will still be faster if i try everything again.  Which QEV did you get?  Let us know how it works out then. 



-------------
A-5
Polished internals
Flatline
16" ThunderPig w/shroud
Vortex Mod w/ lightening rod
Expansion Chamber
Oversized Hopper
3 point sling
MaddMann Spring Set


Posted By: Advantage
Date Posted: 11 February 2007 at 9:54am

USNCV63,

Well it turns out the few quick bursts I got when I first hooked it up gave me some false hope. Three full 20 oz CO2 tanks later I have only been able to get short bursts that are slower than the 1/16" fittings. The sweet spot is hard to hold. I went to the paintball shop a couple days ago and all they had was 1/8" rigid tubing. I tried to install that but I wasn't able to get it on the barbs. Yesterday I went to Lowes and I think I found the tubing you suggested (12 cents a foot). It is the same stuff I bought at Home Depot (.170 inside diameter) I played yesterday in 21 degrees with windchill of -10 degrees. I wasn't as concerned with the r/t fittings due to the fact that my gloves barely fit in the trigger guard. I will mess around with the tubes that I have but it looks like I'm going to have to order 1/8" tubing over the internet. Good luck. Oh yeah, Palmers QEV is what I have



-------------
A5 with somewhat a Super Response trigger,QEV, x chamber, Flatline, JJ ceramic, SP progressive...Powered by old skool CO2


Posted By: USNCV63
Date Posted: 11 February 2007 at 2:44pm
Sounds like you're having the same luck i had.  I've taken mine off and i'm working on a "q-tip" mod right now, i think i have it about right.  Might do another mod.  Well if you get it working let us know, i'll be interested in what you find. 

-------------
A-5
Polished internals
Flatline
16" ThunderPig w/shroud
Vortex Mod w/ lightening rod
Expansion Chamber
Oversized Hopper
3 point sling
MaddMann Spring Set


Posted By: Advantage
Date Posted: 11 February 2007 at 4:32pm

After I wrote my last post I tuned the same setup I had and was able to get an ungodly rate of fire for a second. I would have to pull the trigger something like 30 times before I could get the response to kick in again. It basically worked when it wanted to but when it did kick in it was insanely fast for a second.

This is using the .170" (I got at Home Depot) between T banjo and flow adjuster, and using the actual 1/8" tubing from Palmers between T banjo and the QEV. I've ruled out the adjustable feature on the QEV as a problem through trying all the different adjustments.

So later I was messing with the Protein Skimmer on our fish tank. I was adding air to the skimmer using the left over air tubing that we had from the aquariums air system. Somehow I forgot to check to see if this line would work even though you mentioned it in a past post. I compared it to the line I got at Home Depot and it was smaller in diameter but a little larger than the outside diameter of the original R/T lines. By the way, I've been using the outside diameter of the original lines as a key to tell if the inside diameter of any other line is 1/8".  The original Tippmann r/t lines fit snug into the Palmers line but in the aquarium lines it had a small gap. (I'm not sure if any of this makes sense to you)

So I put the aquarium line on and I was able to get the r/t to kick in like i had with the 1/16" setup. The "sweet spot" was easy to hit yet I wasn't able to tune in that insane rate of fire before I ran out of CO2. I will experiment more when I get my tanks filled again. So if you are using that .170" tubing it probably is too big.    



-------------
A5 with somewhat a Super Response trigger,QEV, x chamber, Flatline, JJ ceramic, SP progressive...Powered by old skool CO2



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