I recently aquired a 98custom with a response trigger.  The problem that I am having is that I cannot "dial it in" to find the sweet spot.  If I have everything wide open, it still will not shoot in bursts or "auto".  The marker shoots fine otherwise.  No air leaks, worn seals or o-rings.  Now, if I stick my finger next to the rear bolt cocking arm (toward the front of the marker not rear) it will "bounce" off of my finger to make it appear to be "fully auto".  I didn't know if my sear spring was too strong or if I should remove my maddman springs (the lightest spring is currently in the rear bolt and on the trigger)?  I need some suggestions so that I can "dial" this thing in.  All of the posts that I have found have been where the response trigger won't turn off.  I wish I had that problem.  I can't get mine to work.

Thanks in advance!!

First of all, if you mean the rear bolt cocking arm bounces of your finger, then you are keeping the sear from completely engaging the hammer.

What I would do, is first check to see if the RT is working right...  First, push the nubbin (the RT) that is behind the trigger, completely back (with no CO2/air in the marker).  Then air it up and shoot the gun once, then feel the little nubbin that sticks out, behind the trigger.  It should now be pushed forward, about 1/4".  If you push on it, it should give resistance.  If it does, this is telling you that the piston has been filled with blow-back gas, which is correct.  Fire it again, and check again.  If the little nubbin' is out again, and there is resistance to pushing it back, then the RT is working correctly and you either have to keep working on tuning it, or learn how to be gentle enough on the trigger, in order for the piston to push the trigger back.  Now, if the nubbin hasn't pushed forward, then you have either installed it wrong or something is keeping the gas from filling up the piston, or the o-ring in the RT piston is shot and it's leaking all the blow-back.

The RT is nothing more that a piston that fills up with blow-back gas, that just resets the sear quickly.  It's as basic as that.  If you cover the hopper hole and blow REAL hard on the breech (without the barrel), you will be able to fill the piston up with air, thus pushing the nubbin out, that resets the sear.

Good luck.  Hope this helps a little.  PM me if you need more help.

drew is back wrote: And if its that your having trouble keeping the "bounce" going for a long time, it is about tecchnigue, and you will eventually be able to keep the "bounce" for as long as you want after you figure the right presure to keep on the trigger. Just keep shooting and turning it a little bit and practicing your technique.

exactly as he said. i've had my R/T for a few months now, and I still haven't gotten it down fully. it takes some time, but you'll figure it out.

RavenGuard wrote: yeah the r/t takes a lot of getting used to.  I disliked mine until I used it enough to figure it out right.

yeah, it does. i know one thing that definitely helped was when i took out my trigger spring. you don't really need it anyway, and taking the spring out = less resistance for your finger, which makes it easier to hit the "Sweet Spot," the point where the R/T engages.

I found that the threads on the power tube have a crack in the casing.  I'm assuming that all of the air is escaping through the crack.  When I take the tubing and connector off of the power tube, pull out the plunger so that it touches my trigger, and put my finger over the connector so no air escapes.....  The plunger actually holds pressure.  I think that my power tube is toast!!!!  Where do I go to get a new or used one?

HELP!!!