drewp wrote: recently i managed to strip one of the bolts on the a-5 the one near he  barrel the top one which u need to take off to switch the barrel and to clean it, i can still change the barrel with unscrewing the buttom one and the other big bolt but i cant open the gun b/c of this its so bad i cant use a bigger device to open it. what do you suggest i do, drill it out with a drill press or?

Do a search with the words "Allen" and "Weld" (JB Weld Epoxy) and you will get a couple of dozen answers to your question as to how to easily remove a striped head Allen screw using JB Weld and an Allen wrench. If that doesn't tickle your fancy, in those same posts you will find more dozens of bits on easy-outs, left hand drill bits and other screw removing info...much of it will actually work.

A Start with these links:

stripped screw

small allen wrench screws stripped

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use a 7/32" drill bit and drill dead center of the stripped out head, when you get deep enough the head will simply fall off. you can then remove the half of the gun and remove what's left of the bolt with a vise grip. if at any time you see aluminum drilling out stop! you are deep enough

Eklind makes quality allen wrenches

drewp wrote: wait i tryed using scoth super gel glue and it didnt work it just didnt stick. do i drill competley throught it untill i ccan see  the drill bill through the other side

Of course it didn't work. Where did you get the idea that super glue would work...other than in a sarcastic post I made about someone who ignored the JB Weld epoxy recommendation.

Okay, did you read and understand what Tigman250 just posted right here on this subject??? READ IT AGAIN! After you do, if you still think it a good idea to drill all the way until you see "the drill bit through the other side." When you do, then please do not come back and ask what to do because the new bolt's head just drops through the hole.

drewp wrote: so get jb weld put it in the styripped bolt with the allan wrench is the bolt let it set for about 24 hours then when its rocked solid the screw will come out . b/c the allan wrench is pretty much attached to the bolt which will give it enough torque to twsit the bolt off. after that just replace the  hole with a new bolt corecct?

Exactly! But, if the JB Weld was not used at the first attempt of removal of the bolt, the Allen socket may be contaminated so that the JB won't bond strongly enough to do the job. Also the JB Weld method may fail even in the best situations if the bolt was excessively over-tightened in the first place. Then it becomes time to revert to the other methods that have been shown to work.

One of the best "second" tries is to obtain a left handed drill bit (industrial supply places) and use it in a reversible drill. The process of drilling out the head of the bolt may bite into the bolt well enough to back it out of the receiver. Here is a crude diagram:

And, as posted by Tigman 250, lift off the shell and use vise grips to unscrew the bolt. Or you could then just whack it lightly with a hammer to drive the nut out with it. Then replace both the nut and bolt with new ones.

tigman250 wrote: i honestly don't like the JB weld method, just don't like JB weld in general....but then again i weld for a living and it sticks just good enough that it's a pain to remove it to prevent contamination when you have weld it to fix it right.

I understand. I TIG weld aluminum fuel tanks myself, but the bolt is going to be thrown away...not repaired.

Bruce A. Frank wrote: tigman250 wrote: i honestly don't like the JB weld method, just don't like JB weld in general....but then again i weld for a living and it sticks just good enough that it's a pain to remove it to prevent contamination when you have weld it to fix it right. I understand. I TIG weld aluminum fuel tanks myself, but the bolt is going to be thrown away...not repaired.

very true Bruce, i guess i just got on a rant