Chrisb319 wrote: After I installed my new valve my gun is uncocking after every single shot. There is no leaks whatso ever so I'm clueless. Could it be that my C02 is low?(my tank was near empty) yes I lubed my front and rear o-rings. The ball detent/latch is correctly placed.

If the screws Mehs mentioned aren't missing then yes, it is 99% likely that your CO₂  is low.

S\/\/4T-L()G4N wrote: DeTrevni wrote: dont loctite anything. your tank is empty. it wont recock if there isnt enough air to recock it! get it filled then report back. FA22RaptorF22 wrote: No. Just like DeTreveni said, you dont thread lock anything. If you want at best, clean it all out, fill your tank, and screw hand tight. Alright, this is a classic. Two people in a row that don't have a clue of what they are talking about.

right. im starting to get the feeling you dont like me much.

too bad.

here's what i heard: his gun wont recock, his tank was near empty, it made the "burrrrp" noise, there were no leaks, the valve set screws are there, and i have yet to hear him say anything about him refilling. those are the ingredients to an empty tank.

so tell me, by saying he was out of air, how was I "clueless?" if it was the loctite comment, you once again read too deep into what i said. my 98s valve screws arent loctited and my gun shoots fine. if loctiting makes it shoot better, super. i just said he was out of air.

please, stop crying over the smallest crap.

right, so i WASNT talking about the loctite, i was talking about the air. now he filled it, it works fine, and you can put some loctite or thread sealant on the valve screws to seal it up.

happy logan?

back on subject, i prefer teflon tape over loctite, for the most part, because if you need to remove the screws after a while, it becomes easier. but since they are valve screws, and you shouldnt need to take them out for a while, loctite might be the best choice.

Condensation is normal if you're shooting CO2 .

The infrequent recocking problem , could be that condensate actually freezing inside your marker creating an obstruction to the motion of your rear bolt . (any forign object in the path of your rear bolt could cause this , as well as misalignment of parts , Ie; cvx valve loose , dirt/grit  )

Loctite 242 ( Blue) is removable and made for keeping screws from working loose , the Tippmann factory uses it to keep the CVX valve screws in place .

Another  (and more likely) cause of your recocking problem might be this , when you shoot with CO2 rapidly , the CO2 pressure in your tank lowers as the tank temperature drops , this is called  "Shootdown"  . The Tippmann is made to operate on High pressure , 850-900 PSI , so when the pressure drops much below 700 PSI (as it will do when shooting rapidly for any length of time (30 to 60 shots ?? ) there wont be enough pressure to cycle the marker properly . 

Try using shorter bursts , de-tuning your RT to a lower RoF , or shooting in semi mode . If you absolutely need , or want to sustain a high Rate of Fire , about the best option is switching to HPA (Nitro) .

It depends on your personal style of play and your pocketbook really ...

Do they tell you in the manual that the cover for the cocking knob is made from plastic !? Believe me, it is .

Same with the CVX valve ,,, they use loctite to keep the screws in place , . There is collectively well over 100 years of experience from the gold and platinum forum members who've already posted in this thread , Pay attention and learn .

(Yer about two sentences away from being called a "Snot nosed Noob")

Loctite 242 is blue and is removable , is there a dispute with that statement ?

Is there a dispute that Tippmann uses loctite in the assembly of their markers , specifically holding the CVX valve screws in place ? 

I dont understand what your question or whatever is , please clarify any information I've presented you feel is wrong . Oh, I see , actually Tippmann uses a wicking grade of loctite (green, and very low viscosity) , but its still loctite . Point is , they use a removable loctite . I've been using Loctite products since they came to market in the mid 70's and am quite familiar with most of their holding/sealing products

  I doubt they've ever used High strength loctite on any of their fastners , you see loctite 272 (Red) can only be removed with the application of heat (as in a torch) , and will shear a 1/4-20 bolt off , but hey ,if you want to use 272 , more power to Ya , Yer gonna need it  !!

Anyways , like I said in your other thread where you felt you werent getting the answers you were looking for Chris , look to the Gold and Platinum forum members here for a wealth of information . A lot of the other members here know quite a bit too , and some just think they do , so you have to sort of "Weed-out" a lot of whats said . I would not completely trust even the virtue of being "Gold member" , since the forum went to a post count criteria for that "Honor"(?). If you hear it from several Plat's , you can almost take it to the bank !!

If you want more information on "CO2 vs. HPA" I suggest doing a search on the topic , there was a thread last week that covered the pro's and cons of both power sources quite comprehensively .

I'm still betting on shoot down . 

Fair enough .

The point I was trying to beat to death , was that Tippmann does use Loctite , I think thats been established now .

Thanks !