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R/T Compressed Air Problem

Printed From: Tippmann Paintball
Category: Paintball Equipment
Forum Name: Gun Maintenace and Repair
Forum Description: Important info for keeping your marker in top shape
URL: http://www.tippmannsports.com/forum/wwf77a/forum_posts.asp?TID=157761
Printed Date: 23 December 2025 at 12:25am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.04 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: R/T Compressed Air Problem
Posted By: Chubby
Subject: R/T Compressed Air Problem
Date Posted: 23 July 2006 at 6:37pm
I have recently bought a R/T for my Tippmann 98 Custom and installed it with a cyclone feeder. The only problem i realize is that it does not work the way it should with my Nitrous (compressed air) tank. I tried my friend's CO2 tank and it worked like a charm. I adjusted it and everything and i cant find that stupid "sweet spot" so i know it is something with the tank. Please Help.



Replies:
Posted By: bassist11
Date Posted: 23 July 2006 at 8:08pm
compressed air won't work as good with the response trigger. something to where co2 is denser than compressed air. i read somewhere that co2 is recommended for the r/t.

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Posted By: Rambino
Date Posted: 23 July 2006 at 8:22pm

First - "nitrous" is laughing gas.

What you are thining of is just "nitro" - for nitrogen, the main component in air.

As to your problem - this is common.  Full CO2 tanks put out higher pressure than nitro tanks, which makes the RT work better.  Most people find that they have to do tweaks/mods to get the RT working right after switching.  The two best ones are probably the Super RT mod and the straw mod.  Both are described in detail in various threads in the U&C forum.

Good luck.

 



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Posted By: Ken Majors
Date Posted: 23 July 2006 at 8:55pm
My 98RT is exactly opposite of that.
When using CO2 it would freeze solid and stop working before I could shoot an entire hopper at max speed.

With HPA I could empty the entire bottle of air with one continuous burst...although I would have to stop to fill the hopper.

As long as you have a high output tank, I can't imagine why you wouldn't be able to adjust it to work perfectly.

I don't have a Super R/T or straw mod. In fact it was one of the original RTs for the 98.

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RLTW


Posted By: Rambino
Date Posted: 23 July 2006 at 9:01pm

Originally posted by Ken Majors Ken Majors wrote:

My 98RT is exactly opposite of that.
When using CO2 it would freeze solid and stop working before I could shoot an entire hopper at max speed.

With HPA I could empty the entire bottle of air with one continuous burst...although I would have to stop to fill the hopper.

I should clarify.

CO2 does result in freeze, like Ken says, and this is the main reason to switch to nitro (as far as the RT goes, anyway).

And 98 users generally do not have any problems switching to nitro - this is almost exclusively an A-5 problem.  For whatever reason, the A-5 is harder to sweetspot without that little extra pressure.

But, for A-5 users, it is common to have problems after switching to nitro.  But the huge upside of avoiding freeze makes it well worth the effort to tweak it back.



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Posted By: ro_ck_solid_x
Date Posted: 23 July 2006 at 9:57pm
I'm running a response trigger on CO2 and can hold a string of fire for as long as i want without freeze up. i do have a palmers stabilizer but i dont know if thats what made the difference.

But as far as your problem i would just order the lp hose kit and i doubt youll have any problems getting it running fine.


Posted By: Chubby
Date Posted: 24 July 2006 at 5:03pm

so you guys mentioned a few different solutions to my problem. but which one is best? super r/t, straw mod, or lp hose kit? and i would prefer one that is easy to obtain cuz i dont want to order anything. thanks for the help guys.

one other thing, how do i loosen the trigger so i dont have to pull as hard to make it fire cuz it is a nuisance sometimes. thanks guys.



Posted By: Chubby
Date Posted: 24 July 2006 at 5:05pm
oh one other thing. i did not realize that lp hose kit meant low pressure hose kit. i have one of those already lol. thx


Posted By: Rambino
Date Posted: 24 July 2006 at 5:13pm

If you have a LPK already installed, you can easily fix your problem by turning up the pressure on the inline regulator.

The straw mod is quick and easy to install, with great results.



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Posted By: barn_user
Date Posted: 24 July 2006 at 6:16pm
For loosening the trigger try the pen spring mod...replace the tirgger spring with a piece of a pen spring. You may cut it to any size that fits you needs. Such as I cut my just short enough to put very little pressure on the trigger but still has enough force to push it back.


Posted By: Chubby
Date Posted: 25 July 2006 at 10:00am
thanks a lot guys. i will try the straw mod out and that pen spring mod sounds pretty interesting too. thanks again.


Posted By: ro_ck_solid_x
Date Posted: 25 July 2006 at 12:56pm
If you have a response trigger you don't even need a trigger return spring the response trigger will push it back. I took mine out so i could feel the sweet spot a little better. Heck even without the response trigger the sear will push it back into position.


Posted By: Rambino
Date Posted: 25 July 2006 at 2:11pm
Ditto on that too.  Removing the trigger spring also helped quite a bit, and is obviously as easy as it gets.

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Posted By: Chubby
Date Posted: 25 July 2006 at 3:11pm
i put a straw mod on my 98c and it is still not working... in case i did not make myslef clear, with the nitro, it does not work at all. it is still just single shot. i put the straw exactly where i am supposed to and it makes no difference. i only have 1000 psi but that should not make a big difference. someone plz help me i am so frustrated. and i dont understand how the straw makes a difference anyway.


Posted By: Clark Kent
Date Posted: 25 July 2006 at 3:30pm
Do you have a low pressure kit on the gun?  If you do, you could turn up the operating pressure a little.


Posted By: ro_ck_solid_x
Date Posted: 25 July 2006 at 6:30pm
Well rt's start to run like crap when the tank starts to get low so go get a fresh fill first of all. then youll just have to mess with the adjustment of the flow control valve until you find a good spot. A lot of people have to re-adjust it after switching to nitrogen. If you already have the larger hose on it I can't imagine it'd be too much trouble to adjust.


Posted By: Chubby
Date Posted: 25 July 2006 at 6:44pm

i adjusted it a little and tuned it and it worked...sort of. i pull the trigger once and it keeps firing like its ouot of air but it keeps going until it wiped out my tank. im guessing (hoping) thats because it was low on air. if not please let me know how to fix it.

and i have a low pressure hose if thats what you mean



Posted By: Chubby
Date Posted: 26 July 2006 at 8:48am
ok i got it  thanks


Posted By: Rambino
Date Posted: 26 July 2006 at 9:47am
If the trigger is completely runaway, then whatever straw you put on the sear pin may be too thick, and the sear isn't catching.  Try a thinner straw.

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Posted By: Chubby
Date Posted: 26 July 2006 at 12:25pm
i was just using a standard straw but i will have to buy capri sun i guess.  but yeah i didnt think of that thanks.


Posted By: RavenGuard
Date Posted: 26 July 2006 at 7:00pm
If you have a LPK, turn your velocity screw farther in, and then turn up the pressure.  The more the velocity screw is in the way, the better the r/t will work, because the turbulance causes more blowback.

Unfortunately, with my a-5 and super r/t, i could never get my velocity high enough at the point where the screw was in where it needed to be.


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Tippmann A-5
Polished Internals
E-Grip
Ape Board
JCS Blade Trigger
QEV
8" Bigshot + Apex
Ricochet R-5 / Tac Cap
Palmers Stabilizer
68/4500 Crossfire


Posted By: Chubby
Date Posted: 26 July 2006 at 10:08pm

and is the velocity screw the screw that is for the response trigger to adjust fire rate? the one you use the tiny screw driver for?

and i have a crossfire steel nitro tank. how do i turn up the pressure? knowing this info could come across as very helpful. although not knowing seem noobish. lol




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