Chrisb319 wrote: Well here is my situation, my first tank started leaking awhile ago so I had to buy a new one :(. I filled my new one last night and it was working fine I even fired one or two shots off it and it worked, flawlessly. We played today and after we where done I unsrewed the tank and you could hear the air leaking a mile away. My last tank and my current new tank seem to always leak from the nipple on the top. I called Tippmann and they said the asa on the gun would not damage a tank. I was wondeing if anyone else has this problem occur reguraly. Now the tech told me that sometimes the dry ice gets in that nipple and causes it to not close all the way shut. So I pushed down on the pin and there was no more air leaking and it decompresed along with it not leaking anymore. My question is that I'm not sure exactly if pushing down on the pin gets rid of the dry ice/fixes my problem. Cause at that point I had already run very low on C02. Does this problem happen to you guys to, how do you take care of it.

The sealing surface inside the pin valve can become contaminated with grit, paint flakes or other trash that may prevent the mating surfaces from sealing tightly against each other.

Here are a couple of things that may fix and prevent CO2 bottle leakage. First, put on your goggles. When the bottle has pressure inside take a non-metal tool, such as the rounded end of a broom handle or the rounded end of the plastic handle of a screw driver and bump the pin valve firmly enough to cause a little gas to vent. Do it three or four times. This will blow out any particles that were preventing a good seal in the valve. These little grit particles will exit the valve at high speed so wear your goggles to protect your eyes.

When the tank is empty so that you can actually depress the pin valve with your fingers or the previous mentioned rounded tool, drop one or two droplets of oil into the valve pin hole. Hold it open with finger pressure until the oil  goes inside. This will help the valve to seal (just like the marker's power valve) and help to eject any future contamination.

There is no reaction between CO2 and the common lubricants you can use for this. Air tool, Hoppe's Gun oil or any of the silicone based marker oils will work fine.