2x 98’s shoot hard soft hard soft
Printed From: Tippmann Paintball
Category: Paintball Equipment
Forum Name: Gun Maintenace and Repair
Forum Description: Important info for keeping your marker in top shape
URL: http://www.tippmannsports.com/forum/wwf77a/forum_posts.asp?TID=161885
Printed Date: 20 February 2026 at 2:27am
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Topic: 2x 98’s shoot hard soft hard soft
Posted By: w1f1
Subject: 2x 98’s shoot hard soft hard soft
Date Posted: 19 November 2006 at 2:37am
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hmm strange problem, on 2 seperate 98's 1 custom, i orig. both shoot very unreliably they will shoot short, far, short, far, short and sometimes have some co2 leakage problems.... anyone know what is goin on here, and also what a decent upgrade kit would be. and where i can get some freakin valve lock bolts those are poppin out all the time |
Replies:
Posted By: Bandit5
Date Posted: 19 November 2006 at 4:26am
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What is the air setup on these guns? Are you using remotes/Co2/HPA/X-chamber/regulators? My first guess would be a problem with air flow screwing up the recharge rate. Where the gun will be at full pressure, you take a shot, then take another shot before the pressure has fully recharged. A couple things can cause this, mostly blocages in air paths. Also, you might want to just clean out the valves. I wouldn't reccomend an upgrade kit. It would be better just to fix the actual problem. Exactly which bolts are popping out? Give us more detail and we can help you out. |
Posted By: Snick
Date Posted: 19 November 2006 at 8:37am
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By valve lock bolts I assume you mean the ones that are exposed on the right side receiver that are ment to hold the valve system in place? -------------  
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Posted By: w1f1
Date Posted: 19 November 2006 at 3:09pm
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yah the ones that snick said.... i have completely dissasembled both and cleaned... they are both co2, with stock drop forwards. it has happened with my 20, 9, and 7oz tanks i have not found a situation where it *always* happens also does it with stock, and 14in barrels |
Posted By: Shadowminion
Date Posted: 19 November 2006 at 4:16pm
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You've stripped out the threads that hold your CVX valve in place . that will cause the symptoms you describe . Get a new valve and dont be so brutish when you tighten them in , just hold on to the short end of the allen wrench , thats all the tighter they need to be . Most recommend using red loc-tite to keep the screws from vibrating out . Good catch Snick ! ------------- SL68-II , micro honed and polished .688" bore . Tuff Enuf . Widowmaker , under construction |
Posted By: Bandit5
Date Posted: 19 November 2006 at 5:13pm
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If they don't stay in place, then you stripped the threads in the valve and Shadowminion is right. I do not reccomend using loctite on those because I always off my powertube assemly when I clean my gub after a game. I do, however, reccomend you you just hand tighten the bolts and not torque them down to the point it will be hard to get off. I have heard of this happening since I bought my first Model 98 over 6 years ago, yet I have never done it myself on countless different guns and too many time on my on guns to count. It is not hard to NOT STRIP THE VALVE THREADS. Just put them back in and they are fine. But, since you already probably stripped them, you need a new one of these: http://www.tippmannparts.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.pr odInfo&productID=379&categoryID=12 But taking your probable lack of experience with valve assembly/dissassembly, I would reccomend you buy this instead (at a very good price): http://www.countysports.com/shop/product.php?productid=2373& amp;cat=267&page=5 |
Posted By: w1f1
Date Posted: 20 November 2006 at 2:11am
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why would stripped bolts do that? just because they allow the valve assembly to slide forward and back every other shot? |
Posted By: Bruce A. Frank
Date Posted: 20 November 2006 at 2:24am
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Exactly! You get inconsistent opening of the valve when it can move from the hammer blow...sometimes sticking in place thus delivering the full gas charge, other times moving to soften the blow and reducing the gas release. I would definitely us LocTite on the screws, but select the Blue (medium) strength. That will prevent loosening but allow easy removal when taking the marker apart. -------------  
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w1f1 wrote:Posted By: tallen702
Date Posted: 26 November 2006 at 8:53am
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Bruce for the win! If this doesn't take care of it (and it should, then you'd
have to take a look at the gas delivery system (bottomline, leaks, etc) but I'm pretty sure these guys have it nailed right on. |
Posted By: JohnnyCanuck
Date Posted: 26 November 2006 at 10:07am
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I've used heli-coils as a field repair to get someone through the day- it's not ideal, but will work perfectly fine.
------------- Imagine there’s a picture of your favourite thing here. |
Posted By: tallen702
Date Posted: 26 November 2006 at 3:42pm
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P.S. you can get screws with a few more threads (just a touch longer) at home depot. That's where we got ours at the Den back in college when tippmann back-ordered them on us. ------------- <Removed overly wide sig. Tsk, you know better.> |
Posted By: Bruce A. Frank
Date Posted: 27 November 2006 at 5:11am
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Heli-Coils done right should actually be a permanent fix. The next solution is to tap to the next size screw...and since these are blind holes, it will require bottoming taps to accomplish that. -------------
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