How are the a5 ebolts done?

about how much would they cost to make?

cause im looking into doing one for my us-5

crap no

so i can't like take a 98 ebolt and do a lot of milling?

you could probably search under the marker gallery for pictures of some peoples E-bolted A-5's, I have seen a couple different ones. I know at least one of those posts has pics of how the internals are done.

other than that, you would have to try for yourself to figure out what else would need to be done to put it in a US-5.

If you really do attempt this, it should be really interesting, only a very few have done it to an A-5, much less a Non-Tippmann gun.

Good luck to you

*EDIT*
Here is the link to one showing the internals of an E-bolted A-5.
http://www.tippmann.com/forum/wwf77a/forum_posts.asp?TID=150110&KW=e%2Dbolt+A%2D5&TPN=1 - http://www.tippmann.com/forum/wwf77a/forum_posts.asp?TID=150 110&KW=e%2Dbolt+A%2D5&TPN=1

looks like a mess cause it was a custom two-way ram, so its got a mess of hoses and stuff. if you had a E-bolt, it would be alot easier to do than that mess...... as following example....

one thing to think about though is the fact the first one, probably is actually a better design. its a mess because he has the board and all the pneumatics on the side of the gun, but it makes it alot easier to take appart. if you think about it, that second gun I have the picture of, is gonna be a pain to maintain because although it looks alot cleaner of a job, he has all the electronics and stuff in the grip. so now in order to take it apart its gonna have alot of stuff you worry about messing up if done wrong.

I hope this helps carl

thanks that does help quite a bit

hm... maybe i could wire the us-5 egrip so instead of tripping the sear, it would send a electronic signal to the ebolt

anyone have a link to how people make their custom 98 custom ebolts?

where are the majority of parts bought?

and i will probably wait before starting this till i have some experience with the karnivor i want to buy.

i just really need to know how the trigger actually trips the ebolt.

like when you pull the trigger, how the ebolt knows to fire

i think it would be easier than to make a a5 ebolt because you don't have to worry about the cyclone.

plus no milling is needed in the grip

the big ol triple post:

so in size how to the 98 internals compare to the a-5 ones?

i am hoping it is the same or even better, bigger.

i also need answers on how the trigger works.

edit: and pictures of the internals of a 98c ebolted would be nice

Thanks alot

i will read all that over the next few hours.

it looks like there's a good chance that this could happen.

but i kinda want to use the 98 ebolt because of my tech skills failing

but what does a macro switch look like? how does the trigger actually trip it?

and most importantly i need to know how 98 internals compare to a5 ones.

Do you aggree that if the 98 ebolt will fit, i will not have to buy anything else? no fittings or anything?

carl_the_sniper wrote: Thanks alot i will read all that over the next few hours. it looks like there's a good chance that this could happen. but i kinda want to use the 98 ebolt because of my tech skills failing.. but what does a macro switch look like? how does the trigger actually trip it? and most importantly i need to know how 98 internals compare to a5 ones. Do you aggree that if the 98 ebolt will fit, i will not have to buy anything else? no fittings or anything?

The trigger switch is a small rectangular block  (1/2 inch long, 3/16 inch thick, 5/16 inch front to back...a micro switch)with a small lever arm on it. The arm is contacted by the trigger to actuate the switch...and as was noted in another post, electricity then actuates the gas solenoid providing pressure to move the ram...striking the pin valve on the power valve body...releasing the gas to propel the ball

so basically it would just be a matter of putting the switch behind the trigger? No special mods or anything?

I'm just wondering because the a-5 and the us-5 each have a trigger assembly within a box. The 98 has just a free trigger inside the gun.

are there any parts of the ebolt that must be airtight?

Maybe take a look that that and tell me what needs to be airtight.

how much should i pay for an ebolt kit?

do you need hpa to run it?

and do you mind actually drawing on it the parts that need to be airtight

and do i need anything special for the air or can i just hook my existing hose into the ebolt asa?

do i need a reg?

and do you mind actually drawing on it the parts that need to be airtight

Not at all. The green is the entire ram assembly. This whole piece is air tight. On this one the two red boxes mark the only openings in the ram. The box to the left marks the ramcap which holes the rod in place. The box on the right is the air inlet to power the ram forward. The white X near the front of the ram marks another spot where a fitting would be if you had a two way ram.

and do i need anything special for the air or can i just hook my existing hose into the ebolt asa?

If you have the ebolt asa, then you can screw your hose right into it, run a line from the asa to your solenoid, and you are good to go. If you don't want to take that road then you need to buy an aftermarket lpr (WGP or PPS.)

do i need a reg?

ok im 50/50 right now if i do this or not.

i really think it would be easier just to use the 98 ebolt i posted.

but tell me if this would work: (forget the crappy drawing and laque of electronics inside)

normal us-5:

ebolt pic i made:

um...  i know this will sound really bad but... can you tell me what all the parts are and what they do?

im not even sure which one the ram is (i think it's the black thing at the end)

msn but not tonight

email in profile

The black thing is the RAM, a pneumatic cylinder in which gas pressure drives a piston forward so that the "hammer" mounted on the end of the piston rod strikes the pin valve releasing the gas from the power valve.

Just a bit of further education. The ram is operated from a low pressure regulator that is separate from the pressure propelling the ball.

The Tippmann GTA E-Bolt kit is unharmed by operation with CO2, BUT, at high rates of fire the CO2 will cause freeze up just as it does in the mechanical marker. HPA is the better way to go.

thanks

I talked to karl last night on msn and thanks to him i now have a pretty good understanding of how one works.

I really just want to be sure the e-bolt won't be too small and i've wasted $80-100

Money is tight, i bought a dog this morning and i have to drop another 150 for my drivers license tomorrow.

Ontario, it's actually more like $125.

And that gets you the test, 5 years of licensing fees, and your first driving test for your G2.

Do you americans use G1, G2 or G's?

yeah the actual license is $10 but it includes $50 for your g2 drivers test and $65 for 5 years of licensing fees. (or something like that)

well im pissed cause i couldn't get my license. They had changed the law on the identification needed to get one, the day before i went.

but i am in the process of getting an ebolt. I ordered a double trigger for my us-5 and also a powertube, though im not sure if jcs will ship it to me

What is included in the low pressure kit?

does it modify internals or does it just change the asa?

yeah ill figure that out after the e-bolt project.

im pretty much 99% doing this

just looking into buying an ebolt

mmmm.... need pictures

i need to know if this is a go or not.

i'm really not into doing a custom job.

I'm hoping someone with a ebolted 98 can measure the width of each part of their e-bolt.

I don't want to make a custom ebolt

I just need someone to measure the circumference of their e-bolt

what else?

ohh and if for some reason I miss something and it is not 100% airtight will it:

a) Leak a bit

B) completely drain my tank in a few seconds

c) explode and possibly hurt/kill me (which would be bad)

just asking because all the pics i've seen of model 98 ebolts don't look 100% airtight.

a) Leak a bit

most likely

B) completely drain my tank in a few seconds

if it's big enough. it would take more than a few seconds. you aren't supplying the ebolt with a TON of air.

c) explode and possibly hurt/kill me (which would be bad)

99.9% this will never happen.

just asking because all the pics i've seen of model 98 ebolts don't look 100% airtight.

look at the tube running from the e-bolt to the soleniod. If you look around that, it looks like there's a lot of holes for it to run through.

whatever though, it was more of a safety concern.

on a normal 98 does the area between the powertube and rear bolt have to be airtight also?

ram

Ok

got my e-bolt.

a few wires came lose though.

I have no clue which to solder to which.

I have:

a white coming from the switch

a blue coming from the board

a black coming from the board

now, I look at the trigger button and see that there are two out of three wires missing, only the middle one is attached.

which do I solder to which?

The switch and noid all have wires completely attached to them

from the switch there is a black and a white, the black is connected to the battery plug and the white is loose.

from the board, there are 3 loose wires going out. A blue and two blacks. I know at least one black goes to the middle of the switch but not sure which.

on/off in the first part with the white wire,

microswitch in the second part.

just wondering what the third post on the microswitch is for?

so, how do I know which black goes to which black?

one has a white piece of electrical tape around it if that helps? (only covers a tiny bit close to the board.

ok i'll try that.

oh and.... if I need to permenately hold my e-bolt in place, will I ever need to get at it to adjust anything?

only things i could possibly see being changeable are:

-three little switches attached together on board

-small red button on side of soleniod

-two silver switches that look like you would use a flathead screwdriver to turn

what do each of these do?

ok i noticed some signs on it:

next to the three switches:

F   6

R   3

S   T

next to the two silvers:

ROF 9meaning rate of fire but why wouldn't you put it to full always?

and

DWl

edit: oh and what does the allen key twist at the end of the asa do?

what does dwell mean?

can you review response and turbo for me?

could s mean single?

why would you want to decrease or increase air flow to the noid?

and on the actuall bolt on the e-bolt, the silver thing. it has a hole on each side. one goes to the cocking rod, one seems to go to nowhere.  but one also has threading and the other does not. does it matter which hole the cocking rod goes in?

also, to fit it inside the gun, i either need to modify the e-bolt or the gun. Modifying the e-bolt would be easier and better. could I shave this first ring off?:

karll wrote: The threaded hole is the set screw to keep the hammer on the rod. Put the linkage arm in the other hole. As for modifying the ram, I don't see why not.

so you don't think I will hit the internals of the ram, putting a hole in it?

so what actually goes in the threaded hole?

ok

so im moronic simplified talk for me:

as long as I don't go farther than the raised areas, I am fine?

ok

but those raised areas themselves are solid metal right?

oh and thanks for the wiring help, it works great now.

tomorow's job is to hollow out my grip and maybe cut it in half for quick adjustments.

I will start posting pics of the mod in the marker gallery section, but all the tech help i need will go here (lots to come I bet)

also, the silver part of the bold itself isin't as big as the receiver around it, meaning there will be a small gap. Is this allright?

ok, will do

so it's 100% imperative theat the ram is centered?

ok perfect.

I will also probably glue it to the rear cap, and that will endsure a good fit

I just went back to the beginning of this thread and re-read it all. Karll, I am impressed that you have had the perseverance to continue to answer all of  Carl-the-sniper's repetitive questions that appear to me to have been answer several times over in these forums and in your answers. Even the questions about wire connections have been answered with text and pictures (posted pictures myself in other threads). Function of the pots and dip switches have been covered with posts from and reference to the installation manuals available on line. There are numerous references to A-5 E-Bolt installation and the collars fabricated to fasten the E-Bolt ram into the A-5 receiver. In the posts on these Tippmann forums there is enough information for one to obtain a virtual college degree in pneumatics, particularly relating to pneumatic cylinder actuation and function.

Carl-the-sniper, at this point, has made over 4000 posts to these forums and has to throughly understand the "search" function. Again, Karll, I am amazed at your willingness to spoon feed C.T.S. every little nuance on the conversion...even when he doesn't absorb what you spooned in, you scrape it up and spoon it in again.

After re-reading this thread I have begun to doubt that this is really Carl-the-sniper. The Carl-the-sniper that I have come to know on these forums seemed pretty intelligent and quick witted. Carl, are you actually just messin' with us? Or are you someone else disguised as Carl?

Hm... i don't know what to say.

I thank karl for all he does, but I may be repetative because I know very little on the subject. A lot of the time what sounds easy to you guys, makes no sense to me. I have never owned an e-bolt and until last night, had actually never seen one in real life.

 I couldn't get any real answers through searching here or google. I couldn't find any sort of manual.

thanks

mmmm..... hand filing this thing down to fit in is gona take longer than expected. Damn you tippmann for making another over-durable product.

nah

it doesn't matter if it's perfect, I'm gona put it in the end cap and seal around it with epoxy.

now a question:

the tube that runs from the ram, actually runs outside the gun through a small track in the raised groves.

this would mean it wouldn't be airtight on a 98. now, woud it be better If I were to fill in that gap or should I just leave it? would filling the gap actually hurt anything?

not sure yet, may re-rout may not.

If I decide to though, should I fill it?

or is it a vent for exhaust gasses or something that would be bad to cover up?

actually... if not, where do the gasses vent out of?

through the noid and out where?

other stuff doesn't matter If I get this

tecumseh wrote: but how much regular people have a lathe though..?

Gee, I have a lathe in my garage(along with a TIG welding machine, a sheet metal beading machine, a shear, a notcher and a box-brake). Doesn't everyone?

ok, serious progress made on mod

all i have left is to:

-file metal us5 body to fit air tubes up to ram (finishing tonight hopefully)

-wire and solder battery wires (very last step)

-find way to mount ram (tomorrow... gona be interesting)

... the cool thing is that I replaced the stock microswitch with another microswitch with a roller, then modified where it hits the trigger to be flat... not sure if it helps anything but it's cool and seems more stable.

just a question:

-I have two wires, a red and a black coming from the board... they are the battery wires but I must run the on/off switch between them. Should I attach it to the red wire, or the black wire and then into the battery? or does it not matter?

Ok

didn't get tubes fit today, i am doing them with a small file that's meant for filing plastic and metal shavings so it takes a while.

lol

it's very hard to cut a 1" hole into a 1.25" piece of round plastic with a spade bit.

It didn't turn out bad, it should work but right now i'm hand-filing it to fit.

not sure if It means anything to anybody but...

I could be testing as soon as tomorrow and finished by the weekend.

awwww yeah

it works!... and on the first try 1:30 in the morning, probably woke the whole street up.

right now it just needs finishing touches... tomorrow i will shoot paint through it and post pics.

..... oh yeah and some oil would probably help cause it's extremely loud

bty... is there any trick to removing macroline from the fittings?

Carl,

Really would like to see some pictures...finished or not. Particularly the fit of the ram and why there was difficulty?

problem...

upon testing the bolt released from the linkage arm.

not good... opening now to check for damage...

could be because:

A) it is unlubricated

b) my halo was out of batteries so i had to use the rip drive

...no serious problems just a broken ball.

do you think I should super glue the linkage arm to the bolt?