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Power Tubes

Printed From: Tippmann Paintball
Category: Paintball Equipment
Forum Name: Upgrades and Customizing
Forum Description: Trick it out!
URL: http://www.tippmannsports.com/forum/wwf77a/forum_posts.asp?TID=163296
Printed Date: 31 July 2026 at 5:11pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.04 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: Power Tubes
Posted By: Adragon_Hart
Subject: Power Tubes
Date Posted: 05 January 2007 at 9:08pm
I was installing my R/T and the Cyclone and stripped out the banjo fitting in the power tube, I have the other power tube from the R/T so I'm going to install that one and try again.  I was looking at the JCS Jet Power Tube though as a replacement.  Has anyone used the billet power tubes with the R/T? Does it make a difference in performance or is it just a reliability issue?



Replies:
Posted By: barn_user
Date Posted: 05 January 2007 at 9:35pm
I would go with that or a Dead On Paintball Proseal powertube. Both are aluminum and are much stronger and reliable than the tippmann plastic ones. I really didn't see much of an improvement in performance with mine. So really it's more of a reliabilty issue which I would suggest.


Posted By: phil_stl
Date Posted: 05 January 2007 at 10:06pm
Dead On Paintball Proseal powertube!!!


Posted By: carl_the_sniper
Date Posted: 05 January 2007 at 10:28pm

i wouldn't bother replacing your powertube

you won't notice performance increases really and the're more money then they're worth



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<just say no to unnecessarily sexualized sigs>


Posted By: sinisterNorth
Date Posted: 05 January 2007 at 10:37pm

An aftermarket powertube is unnecessary.



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Pumpker'd; (V.) When a pump player runs up and shoots you at point blank range because you thought 20bps made you good.


Posted By: phil_stl
Date Posted: 06 January 2007 at 4:47pm

But they can be useful. (kind of)

Let's say all of your powertubes are broken and you are tired of having to replace broken powertubes...get one.

Also a polished metal powertube is much more slick then any plastic one.  = slight higher ROF

Some have noted a slight increase in velocity when changing.  (Therefore if you run a palmers stab, you can turn down the input pressure and save some air, add a stronger rear spring and save even more air).



Posted By: tallen702
Date Posted: 06 January 2007 at 5:43pm
Am I the ONLY ONE who remembers when tippmann '98's came stock with aluminum power-tubes?

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<Removed overly wide sig. Tsk, you know better.>


Posted By: phil_stl
Date Posted: 06 January 2007 at 6:51pm
They came with metal rear caps too.  These babies were definitely tanks.

They still are but not as much as they used to be.


Posted By: carl_the_sniper
Date Posted: 06 January 2007 at 8:07pm
Originally posted by phil_stl phil_stl wrote:

But they can be useful. (kind of)

Let's say all of your powertubes are broken and you are tired of having to replace broken powertubes...get one.

Also a polished metal powertube is much more slick then any plastic one.  = slight higher ROF

Some have noted a slight increase in velocity when changing.  (Therefore if you run a palmers stab, you can turn down the input pressure and save some air, add a stronger rear spring and save even more air).

powertube doesn't move man

ive never seen one break, not that i doubt it's possible. But anyone who breaks enough powertubes that they need to switch off, has other problems.



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<just say no to unnecessarily sexualized sigs>


Posted By: karll
Date Posted: 06 January 2007 at 8:16pm
Originally posted by carl_the_sniper carl_the_sniper wrote:

Originally posted by phil_stl phil_stl wrote:

But they can be useful. (kind of)

Let's say all of your powertubes are broken and you are tired of having to replace broken powertubes...get one.

Also a polished metal powertube is much more slick then any plastic one.  = slight higher ROF

Some have noted a slight increase in velocity when changing.  (Therefore if you run a palmers stab, you can turn down the input pressure and save some air, add a stronger rear spring and save even more air).

powertube doesn't move man

ive never seen one break, not that i doubt it's possible. But anyone who breaks enough powertubes that they need to switch off, has other problems.



I believe he meant you MIGHT achieve higher rates of fire from a polished tube because it reduces the friction between the hammer and the power tube.

I also don't know how anyone breaks a power tube. I can't come up with any feasible situation in which this is possible.


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PlentifulBalls "It's cool, I'll be dead before I'm not pretty."
Gatyr "Stupid things exist."



Posted By: phil_stl
Date Posted: 06 January 2007 at 8:27pm
Originally posted by karll karll wrote:

Originally posted by carl_the_sniper carl_the_sniper wrote:

Originally posted by phil_stl phil_stl wrote:

But they can be useful. (kind of)

Let's say all of your powertubes are broken and you are tired of having to replace broken powertubes...get one.

Also a polished metal powertube is much more slick then any plastic one.  = slight higher ROF

Some have noted a slight increase in velocity when changing.  (Therefore if you run a palmers stab, you can turn down the input pressure and save some air, add a stronger rear spring and save even more air).

powertube doesn't move man

ive never seen one break, not that i doubt it's possible. But anyone who breaks enough powertubes that they need to switch off, has other problems.



I believe he meant you MIGHT achieve higher rates of fire from a polished tube because it reduces the friction between the hammer and the power tube.

And between the front bolt and the powertube.

I also don't know how anyone breaks a power tube. I can't come up with any feasible situation in which this is possible.

I have heard of the plastic ones breaking before, so mentioned it, even though it's never happened to me.


Posted By: Bruce A. Frank
Date Posted: 06 January 2007 at 8:57pm

Reasons for replacing the Power Tube:

One could strip the threaded hole into which the gas fitting for the Cyclone screws.

One could wish to install a Cyclone and the particular Power Tube in the marker has no hole for the Cyclone gas fitting.



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Posted By: Adragon_Hart
Date Posted: 06 January 2007 at 10:21pm
So, what I'm gathering from what everyone says.... is that 1: The Aluminum Power Tube is basically one of those shiney look good may have a use items, and  2: I MIGHT get a slight performance boost fro using it. So...... I guess the thing is do I want my marker internals to look pretty and not notice the difference or save $40 and buy some paint?  Hmmmmmm...........

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98 Custom
- Dye Teardrop
- Response Trigger
- Double Trigger
- 32 Degrees Drop-forward
- 32 Degrees Starfire Bolt
- 32 Degrees Adjustable Stock
- Cyclone Feeder


Posted By: barn_user
Date Posted: 06 January 2007 at 11:00pm
Well be careful when taking the air line out of the power tube. Don't grab it with your hand and try to take it out a wrench(how I broke mine). If you take your gun apart alot and have to remove air lines and such, it's very nice to have so you don't have to worry about breaking the plastic one.


Posted By: macgyver
Date Posted: 06 January 2007 at 11:12pm

Stock plastic powertubes do break. I have seen many of them break in the rental markers that i used to maintain. I have never seen an aluminum powertube break. They are by far more durable than the plastic ones but at nearly four times the cost they better be. There is a lot of slop in the stock powertube and front bolt setup that lets air leak by, but unless you get a matched power tube and front bolt with tight tolerances, then an aluminum powertube is more of a waste of money. If I played tournament speedball with my Tippmann and needed an uber reliable marker then I would go with an aluminum powertube, but since I play woodsball I just stick with my plastic tube. When your powertube cracks down the side you lose velocity and I can deal with that in the woods.  If your RT/Cyclone port is stripped out then try using red thread sealant to keep the fitting in there. This is just a bandaid type job though because eventually you will want to remove that fitting again. One way to avoid stripping out the RT/Cyclone port again is to turn the fitting counter clockwise until the thread "drops" into proper alignment. Then turn it clockwise. Do not overtighten it, the 10-32 thread is not a tapered thread, it is a straight thread and the o-ring will make the seal so it doesn't have to be super tight.   



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"My gun shoots ropes so good that i rock climb with it, then when i get to teh top i pwn people snipa style cuz my 21 inch barrel gives me extra distance for headshots." -me but not me



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