Help With Pro-Lite
Printed From: Tippmann Paintball
Category: Paintball Equipment
Forum Name: Gun Maintenace and Repair
Forum Description: Important info for keeping your marker in top shape
URL: http://www.tippmannsports.com/forum/wwf77a/forum_posts.asp?TID=163354
Printed Date: 03 September 2025 at 7:49pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.04 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Help With Pro-Lite
Posted By: SherpaT350
Subject: Help With Pro-Lite
Date Posted: 07 January 2007 at 4:08pm
|
I just got a used pro-lite and it is malfunctioning . With the tank hooked up , it will sometimes fire correctly , then "tri-burst" then go full auto and can't be stopped untill you unscrew the tank . I know the tank isn't low on air because I tried it on another gun . I also tried a different used bolt and it does the same thing . Another thing I did was replaced the sear spring, thinking it might be weak . I am not expert at these , I just have 3 of them and one for parts . What do you think is wrong ? If I need a part, can I still get parts ? These guns are so indestructable , I hate to have one not working correctly. Thanks so Much, Raz
|
Replies:
Posted By: Snake6
Date Posted: 07 January 2007 at 4:16pm
|
The new sear spring you put might be the problem, try putting the stock one back in and see if it works. I would also check your Rear Bolt O-Ring, and the actual sear for wear. Check to make sure your ball detent is not installed backwards. You can get parts from tippmannparts.com ------------- 
|
Posted By: tallen702
Date Posted: 07 January 2007 at 4:42pm
Okay, here are the big things to look for on a pro-lite when it malfunctions like you described.
If it is the o-ring, replace it If your sear is worn, replace it If the hammer is worn, replace it If the Velocity screw is backed out too far, it will allow too-much air to escape the front of the marker and the valve doesn't have enough pressure to push the hammer back, this is common in the older-valve series. Try dry-firing the marker and see if it causes it to "auto-fire". If it is the velocity screw, get a stiffer drive spring to increase the amount of air that travels through the valve which will raise the velocity, then, use the velocity screw to turn the velocity back down by screwing it into the marker. If the valve stop is missing, the valve can travel too-far forward or rear-ward and this too can cause back-pressure issues and cause the hammer to not re-seat properly If the power-tube is worn at the back end, it means the valve has to travel forward more to release the propellant which can cause the non-cocking issue If the drive spring is old or cut short, you may not be giving the valve enough force to open fully and force the hammer back. If it is way too stiff, it can keep the hammer from being able to come all the way back before attempting to force it forward again. The too-stiff scenario is rare at best though. If the linkage rod retention screw (sight screw isn't in the proper place or is tightened down too-tight (where it actually cuts deeper than the indentation does) it can cause drag on the linkage assembly and cause the issue, this too is very rare though. The same issue applies to the screw not being in the right place. Also, make sure the guide rod is in place in the end cap with the spring around it, the spring binding up without the guide rod to hold it in position can cause this issue as well. Also, if the ball detent is in backward, it will cause drag on the bolt's travel and can cause the same issue. I know it's a lot of info, but I think I covered all the bases. ------------- <Removed overly wide sig. Tsk, you know better.> |
Posted By: SherpaT350
Date Posted: 07 January 2007 at 5:42pm
|
Now, when you mean "dry fire" , you mean with the co2 tank hooked up correct ? If so, this is when the gun is actually auto firing . I have not actually shot a ball out of it yet . On the velocity adjustment screw , when the setscrew is screwed in . What does it actually go into or hit up against ? What happens if you screw it all the way in ? For a guestiment on the velocity screw . If I screw it all the way in, how many turns do I back it back out to get in the ball park ? Are you calling the hammer what some call the rear bolt ? I am sure some of these components are worn because I think this was an old rental gun . I just don't know how much wear is too much. Thanks for your info., Raz
|
Posted By: Snake6
Date Posted: 07 January 2007 at 5:49pm
|
Yes, in this case dry firing is with the CO2 hooked up. There is no "ball park" for adjusting the VAS. The only safe way to do it is with a chronograph. Yes, the Hammer, and the Rear Bolt are the same thing. -------------
|
Posted By: SherpaT350
Date Posted: 07 January 2007 at 5:52pm
|
I know there is no ball park . I catually have my own Chrono . I just wanted to know about where to set this to make sure it was not in too far or not far enough . Thanks, Raz
|
Posted By: AngelSlayer
Date Posted: 07 January 2007 at 5:52pm
|
its more like you are calling the rear bolt what actually is the hammer, but it is worn to much if they sear has scratched its shape into the hammer or the sear is no longer square on the end that hold the hammer, it should be fairly obvious
if it was a former rental im going with worn sear -------------  
Hey, Pate, it does feel good to be a gangster. |
Posted By: tallen702
Date Posted: 07 January 2007 at 5:58pm
The old schematics called it the rear bolt, most pro-lite owners know it by that name, but "hammer" is easier for most people to understand if they aren't familiar with the technology. I'd go all the way in with the velocity screw (it just stops when it hits the interior wall of the power-tube's wide spot) and then back it out by half. You'll definitely be chronoing low at this point, but you'll still get the ball out the barrel which is important if you don't want to be cleaning out your barrel ever second shot. 
when I say "going auto" I'm just referring to the fact that the sear doesn't catch the bolt, so it sounds like it's full auto, again, I didn't know how much you knew about that particular marker, or tech work in general, so I was just using the most descriptive thing I could think of. If you're having to back your velocity screw WAY OUT, to get it up to around 290, it's time for a new spring. That's the usual culprit. ------------- <Removed overly wide sig. Tsk, you know better.> |
Posted By: SherpaT350
Date Posted: 07 January 2007 at 6:40pm
|
I just took the spring out of one of the good pro-lites and tried it in the "bad" one and it still did the same thing . I did notice one thing , and please excuse my technology on this one. The thinwall aluminum tube that runs inside the front bolt that sticks out when you have the gun cocked . It is worn on the top at an angle from the bolt . It is probably worn in from the edge an 1/8 -3/16 of an inch . This won't create this problem will it ? I am a journeyman tool and diemaker by trade and know how to tig weld very well . What would happen if I built up the end of the sear that contacts the rear bolt ? Or do you think it will be the end that actually contact the trigger ?
Thanks guys so much for you help. Raz
|
Posted By: SherpaT350
Date Posted: 07 January 2007 at 9:04pm
|
I guess the part that has a worn spot in it , is what you call the power tube. Does anyone have a brand new sear for a pro-lite and a set of calipers ? If so, would you be so kind as to give me an over all length on the sear ? I am thinking about tig welding up the sear tomorrow and getting some nice sharp corners on it and seeing if this helps it. Or do you think maybe the powertube is the problem ? I am thinking it might be worn but it has to have been this way a long time and not just happened. Thanks, Raz
|
Posted By: tallen702
Date Posted: 08 January 2007 at 11:30am
|
It might be the power tube, is it worn so that it might cause drag on the bolt on the backward stroke? The more likely culprit is the sear though, especially since it is an old rental pro-lite.
$10 gets you a http://www.tippmannparts.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=544&categoryID=0 - new one from tippmannparts.com ------------- <Removed overly wide sig. Tsk, you know better.> |
Posted By: SherpaT350
Date Posted: 09 January 2007 at 7:53pm
|
I did notice when I was disassembling this gun that the front bolt was alittle scored up on the outside . I tried to deburr some of the score marks . But is still didn't slide with ease , maybe this is the problem. Thanks, Raz |
Posted By: Thompsonshooter
Date Posted: 09 January 2007 at 8:21pm
|
Pro/Lites can be strange sometimes, shoot few balls out of it and see if it still happens. I have had them do this dry but they shoot fine with paint. ------------- 
Eric Engler President www.englerpaintballguns.com |
Posted By: SherpaT350
Date Posted: 09 January 2007 at 9:29pm
|
I just put a little Hoppes gun oil all over the front bolt and squirted some down the top where the rod slides and it came out of it . I am thinking something is dragging . Because after I put the oil in it , it tri-bursted a couple of times and now it seems to dry fire fine. Any ideas ? Thanks, Raz
|
Posted By: tallen702
Date Posted: 09 January 2007 at 10:45pm
|
that might have done it, it'll tri-burst without rounds in it because it
depends on the pressure build-up behind the ball to help with the blow- back pressure to push the back-bolt into place. My prolite, indeed, most prolites, have that issue. ------------- <Removed overly wide sig. Tsk, you know better.> |
Posted By: SherpaT350
Date Posted: 10 January 2007 at 6:58am
|
Is it recommended to put a little oil on movable parts ever once in awhile ? So, if the bolts have any drag on them at all this can happen ? Otherwise I think they are really dependable guns. Thanks guys so much for your help ! Raz
|