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Neeedddd helppppppp?????

Printed From: Tippmann Paintball
Category: Tippmann Paintball
Forum Name: New Player Forum
Forum Description: New to the sport? Get Professional Advice Here!
URL: http://www.tippmannsports.com/forum/wwf77a/forum_posts.asp?TID=164486
Printed Date: 07 March 2026 at 4:37am
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Topic: Neeedddd helppppppp?????
Posted By: biohazard420
Subject: Neeedddd helppppppp?????
Date Posted: 15 February 2007 at 8:57pm
i jus got a new ion and put on the tank .... and now its stuck (not comin off) its a empire fuel fixed tank. is ther a way to take it off?

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UpeR



Replies:
Posted By: Black_Shadow
Date Posted: 15 February 2007 at 9:09pm
you may have cross-threaded it, the only way you can fix that is with a little brute-force

if the tank is empty you might be able to get it off easier if you disconnect the bottomline/asa from your marker...


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98CP ACT
R/T
J&J Ceramic 14"
Egg II w Z-Board
GTA Inline X-Chamber
NCStar Red-Dot
Pen Spring Mod
Trigger Stops
Polished Internals
Dye Sticky Grip
20oz Co2 w On/Off

Next Up: Spimmy


Posted By: biohazard420
Date Posted: 15 February 2007 at 9:24pm

my dad even tried and couldnt unscrew it.tanks empty too



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UpeR


Posted By: Black_Shadow
Date Posted: 15 February 2007 at 9:27pm
if you have something like a pipe wrench and a thick piece of cloth try using those to get some leverage on it...

(note: make sure the cloth is going to prevent the wrench from wrecking the tank and not just rip)


-------------
98CP ACT
R/T
J&J Ceramic 14"
Egg II w Z-Board
GTA Inline X-Chamber
NCStar Red-Dot
Pen Spring Mod
Trigger Stops
Polished Internals
Dye Sticky Grip
20oz Co2 w On/Off

Next Up: Spimmy


Posted By: biohazard420
Date Posted: 15 February 2007 at 9:36pm
yea the thing is the empire tank unscrews from its neck so it makes it harder. thers no other way to it?

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UpeR


Posted By: Black_Shadow
Date Posted: 15 February 2007 at 9:50pm
Nope... the only way your going to get it off is force...

make sure you go slow, or you might damage the threads too...

if you can put the gun in a vice or something like that... it might help...


-------------
98CP ACT
R/T
J&J Ceramic 14"
Egg II w Z-Board
GTA Inline X-Chamber
NCStar Red-Dot
Pen Spring Mod
Trigger Stops
Polished Internals
Dye Sticky Grip
20oz Co2 w On/Off

Next Up: Spimmy


Posted By: TippmannsRkool9
Date Posted: 15 February 2007 at 10:15pm

yes you MUST put some oil at where the threads begin to release some of the friction, it happened with my protium on it's first gas up.



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Tippmanns are cool like Dye's are expensive, and JT Protiums are great markers too!


Posted By: TippmannsRkool9
Date Posted: 15 February 2007 at 10:17pm
This may not get to you in time, but you never, EVER use force, This could lead to you unscrewing the valve from the tank body. THIS IS NOT GOOD AND YOU NEED TO GET SOME OIL FOR YOUR MARKER!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Tippmanns are cool like Dye's are expensive, and JT Protiums are great markers too!


Posted By: RoboCop
Date Posted: 15 February 2007 at 10:22pm

Did something feel wrong when screwing the tank in? Make sure the only thing unscrewing is the threads that go into the ASA. If the valve is unscrewing, you got a big problem.



Posted By: biohazard420
Date Posted: 15 February 2007 at 10:37pm
thanks and hopefully i get it out but how can i prevent that happening again?

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UpeR


Posted By: TippmannsRkool9
Date Posted: 15 February 2007 at 11:18pm
Oil your gun before and after every use, pro shops will carry oil.

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Tippmanns are cool like Dye's are expensive, and JT Protiums are great markers too!


Posted By: hybrid-sniper
Date Posted: 15 February 2007 at 11:56pm

Originally posted by biohazard420 biohazard420 wrote:

thanks and hopefully i get it out but how can i prevent that happening again?

Screw it in deliberately. Do not just slap it in there and twist it. Make sure the threads on the tank and ASA are nice and sharp. If they're not, replace what is dulled/worn out.

Greasing or oiling the threads should never be necessary.

As for you current problem, assuming it's still a problem, use a strap wrench or two.



Posted By: Langside
Date Posted: 16 February 2007 at 2:51am
Note on the oiling  DO NOT put any oil near/in/on the fill nipple. This make tanks explode. Very bad.


Posted By: TippmannsRkool9
Date Posted: 16 February 2007 at 3:25pm
Originally posted by hybrid-sniper hybrid-sniper wrote:

Originally posted by biohazard420 biohazard420 wrote:

thanks and hopefully i get it out but how can i prevent that happening again?

Screw it in deliberately. Do not just slap it in there and twist it. Make sure the threads on the tank and ASA are nice and sharp. If they're not, replace what is dulled/worn out.

Greasing or oiling the threads should never be necessary.

As for you current problem, assuming it's still a problem, use a strap wrench or two.

hybrid,

You should always oil the threads because if you don't you could unscrew the valve from the tank body! always oil you gun before you use it.



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Tippmanns are cool like Dye's are expensive, and JT Protiums are great markers too!


Posted By: hybrid-sniper
Date Posted: 16 February 2007 at 6:39pm
Originally posted by TippmannsRkool9 TippmannsRkool9 wrote:

Originally posted by hybrid-sniper hybrid-sniper wrote:

Originally posted by biohazard420 biohazard420 wrote:

thanks and hopefully i get it out but how can i prevent that happening again?

Screw it in deliberately. Do not just slap it in there and twist it. Make sure the threads on the tank and ASA are nice and sharp. If they're not, replace what is dulled/worn out.

Greasing or oiling the threads should never be necessary.

As for you current problem, assuming it's still a problem, use a strap wrench or two.

hybrid,

You should always oil the threads because if you don't you could unscrew the valve from the tank body! always oil you gun before you use it.

There should never be that much friction, and the reg should not be that loose to the tank body.

As long as the threads on the ASA and tank are fine, oil or grease should not be necessary. If there is a lot of friction, check your threads.



Posted By: MeanMan
Date Posted: 16 February 2007 at 8:05pm

Couldnt you tell when the tank should of stopped?  Or did you crossthread it?

Kind of odd, the tanks that ive seen tightened on too much, the tank seperates from the valve part and comes off.



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hybrid-sniper~"To be honest, if I see a player still using an Impulse I'm going to question their motives."


Posted By: TippmannsRkool9
Date Posted: 17 February 2007 at 12:17am

hybrid,

If you have no experience whatsoever with tanks detacting the valves from the body, then you should not be in this conversation, so far I have had a tank valve, unscrew from the tank, and 2 of my other friends have had the valves come detached from the tank, not to be disrespectful, but you probably, have not had the type of experiences I have had.



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Tippmanns are cool like Dye's are expensive, and JT Protiums are great markers too!


Posted By: TippmannsRkool9
Date Posted: 17 February 2007 at 12:22am
And one other thing, If you have ever, EVER, looked at the back Co2 threading, It say's specifically on the threading, "Note, Oil before adding air to this system, If not oiled, tank could result in rapid depressurization and may cause serious injury or death". I am warning all of the new players to please, PLEASE, buy oil for your markers, we do not want any misfortunate accidents!

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Tippmanns are cool like Dye's are expensive, and JT Protiums are great markers too!


Posted By: Rock Slide
Date Posted: 17 February 2007 at 12:27am
On my Co2 tanks, I've always added a drop in the pin valve and cycled it before filling. I have also added a drop to the threads before screwing the cap on or screwing it into the tank. This will last a long time before I have to do it again.

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I bring annihilation

and cheap red wine!


Posted By: hybrid-sniper
Date Posted: 17 February 2007 at 1:26am
Originally posted by TippmannsRkool9 TippmannsRkool9 wrote:

hybrid,

If you have no experience whatsoever with tanks detacting the valves from the body, then you should not be in this conversation, so far I have had a tank valve, unscrew from the tank, and 2 of my other friends have had the valves come detached from the tank, not to be disrespectful, but you probably, have not had the type of experiences I have had.

Are you kidding me?



Posted By: RoboCop
Date Posted: 17 February 2007 at 9:30am
I don't really oil my tank threads. The threads shouldn't be extremely tight because the o-ring seals the tank to the ASA. I would think it would be extremely hard to take the valve off from the tank so someone must have messed up when uscrewing their tank.


Posted By: TippmannsRkool9
Date Posted: 17 February 2007 at 10:15am
Well hybrid, no I'm not, I have had to deal with 3 tanks with the valves coming off and someone has had to repair them.

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Tippmanns are cool like Dye's are expensive, and JT Protiums are great markers too!


Posted By: hybrid-sniper
Date Posted: 17 February 2007 at 1:35pm

Alright, here's a real solution.

TIGHTEN THE REGS DOWN.

If the regs are loose, oiling the threads so they wont unscrew is a lame and dangerous fix at best.



Posted By: DeTrevni
Date Posted: 17 February 2007 at 1:46pm
Hybrid = win. If the valve body/tank reg are coming off the tank before the whole assembly comes out of the marker, something is seriously wrong...

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Evil Elvis: "Detrevni is definally like a hillbilly hippy from hell"



Posted By: TippmannsRkool9
Date Posted: 17 February 2007 at 2:06pm
NO HYBRID, You don't understand that after wear and tear from using the tanks will result in the friction that could damage or destroy them, or the things around them. WHATEVER YOU DO YOU MUST OIL YOUR MARKER AT LEAST ONCE EVERY 4000 SHOTS TO KEEP IT IN PERFECT WORKING CONDITION!

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Tippmanns are cool like Dye's are expensive, and JT Protiums are great markers too!


Posted By: hybrid-sniper
Date Posted: 17 February 2007 at 2:15pm

Originally posted by TippmannsRkool9 TippmannsRkool9 wrote:

NO HYBRID, You don't understand that after wear and tear from using the tanks will result in the friction that could damage or destroy them, or the things around them. WHATEVER YOU DO YOU MUST OIL YOUR MARKER AT LEAST ONCE EVERY 4000 SHOTS TO KEEP IT IN PERFECT WORKING CONDITION!

Don't you dare talk down to me.

Oiling the threads on the tank should never be necessary unless something is dirty, stripped, or worn out (or your regs are loose, at whcih point you tighten them.) I have used HPA and C02 tanks for years, and I have NEVER EVER had to oil the threads. No reg of mine has ever seized to the ASA, and no bottle of mine has ever detached from the regulator. Maybe your regs are coming off because you're too cheap or too lazy to get them tightened, or you let so much dirt and crap get lodged in the ASA threads that you could build a sandcastle with it. Maybe you're trying to use an ASA with copper threads from 1987. I don't really know what goes on in your naive world. What I do know, is that oiling or greasing the threads is NOT necessary unless you're slacking elsewhere.

Oiling the gun will keep it "in perfect working condition." Oiling the threads on the tank just makes for a greasy wet mess that obscures the fact that your regs are loose or your threads are stipped/caked. Or all three. Who knows.



Posted By: Rock Slide
Date Posted: 17 February 2007 at 2:33pm
Slacking elseware?  Excuse me?  If the reg or valve comes loose from the tank, it was installed wrong. Use RED Lock-Tite during reassembly and let it sit 24-hours before use. Using a drop of Hopps-9 on the threads of the valve/reg to ASA will save you from having it stick later. It's the same as putting a drop of Hopps-9 on your finger and wiping down the valve/reg o-ring. You do maintain that o-ring, don't you?  "Slacking" my ass...

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I bring annihilation

and cheap red wine!


Posted By: Yomillio
Date Posted: 17 February 2007 at 2:38pm

Originally posted by TippmannsRkool9 TippmannsRkool9 wrote:

NO HYBRID, You don't understand that after wear and tear from using the tanks will result in the friction that could damage or destroy them, or the things around them. WHATEVER YOU DO YOU MUST OIL YOUR MARKER AT LEAST ONCE EVERY 4000 SHOTS TO KEEP IT IN PERFECT WORKING CONDITION!

ROFL!!!!!

I can't believe you just talked down to hybrid...  and im not congratulating you, just so you know...  it wasnt the smart thing to do.

Nobody I have ever played with has had this problem.  I've been playing for 4+ years, playing with people who own HPA tanks the whole time.  No one has EVER put oil on their tank's reg threads, and no one has ever had any problem with tank regs/valves coming off.  Either you need to stop buying/playing with people who have shotty equipment, or you just need to smarten up.

CO2, on the other hand.....

anyways, /hybrid'swin



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http://www.tippmann.com/forum/wwf77a/forum_posts.asp?TID=172327 - Forum XBL Gamertag Collection


Posted By: hybrid-sniper
Date Posted: 17 February 2007 at 2:40pm

Slacking meaning not maintaining your equipment and ensuring the reg is properly seated. If a stuck o-ring is enough to unseat your regulator, it needs to be tightened.

Red loctite is not recommended for this application because it gums up the threads. A stiff tightening with a strap wrench is generally enough.



Posted By: tallen702
Date Posted: 17 February 2007 at 3:04pm
Alright, on the serious, neutral, and non-flaming side of this. I highly suggest taking the marker to a pro-shop, having the reg and tank removed from the ASA, and sending the tank back. You shouldn't be able to un-seat the reg from the bottle with your bare hands, it should take a lot more torque than that.

As for the whole oil thing. The "USE NO OIL" that is printed on the gauges of HPA tanks and most regs simply means, don't put any oil in in the reg as the oil will then blow into the gauge and cause it to stick or malfunction. The results are thus:
If it's a tank reg, the gauge will give a false reading and you can potentially overfill/explode the tank
If it's an inline reg, you'll simply ruin the gauge and run the risk of over-pressurizing your valve resulting in hot shots, poor chronoing, etc.

Oiling your marker from the ASA so long as a gauge isn't present anywhere between the ASA and the valve of the marker, isn't going to hurt anything. It isn't necessary to oil a marker in this manner either, simply efficient. Oil isn't needed on the threads of the bottle either. There is little to no friction between the standard bottle thread and the standard ASA thread, the O-ring being compressed to fill the o-ring gap in the threaded portion of the reg is what seals the whole assembly and makes it air-tight. Contrary to popular belief, no oil is needed on this o-ring for it's proper function. The fact that they are commonly made out of a self-lubricating synthetic material negates the need for oil as a lubricant.

So, in response to the original question, get it taken care of and send the tank back

In response to some of the idiotic comments I've seen posted above, don't give bad advice, especially advice that can cause potential harm to the user.

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<Removed overly wide sig. Tsk, you know better.>


Posted By: usafpilot07
Date Posted: 17 February 2007 at 3:37pm
Hybrid is right.  Both the male and female parts are threaded the way they are for a reason.  You should NEVER have to put any type of lubrication even near your fill nipple.


You also should NEVER use any type of oil on your tank's o-ring. That's what lube is for. There is a HUGE difference between standard types of lube and lower end airsmithing/gun oil.


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Buffalo buffalo Buffalo buffalo buffalo buffalo Buffalo buffalo


Posted By: MoNkeY Hunter
Date Posted: 17 February 2007 at 11:19pm

Originally posted by TippmannsRkool9 TippmannsRkool9 wrote:

NO HYBRID, You don't understand that after wear and tear from using the tanks will result in the friction that could damage or destroy them, or the things around them. WHATEVER YOU DO YOU MUST OIL YOUR MARKER AT LEAST ONCE EVERY 4000 SHOTS TO KEEP IT IN PERFECT WORKING CONDITION!

When I first got my tippmann, I NEVER Oiled IT!!!! Over 10,000 Balls went though it and it worked fine. One whole year of play. IT then fell out of a moving car going 55MPH on a dirt road and still never stoped shooting. Then one day I took it apart and cleaned it, it was very dirty, And then oiled it and it shot another 5,000 balls before I cleaned it agin. You DO NOT NEED TO OIL YOU GUN EVERY 400 shots! Maybe if you have a high gun but not a tippmann.One or two drops of oil, i use rem oil, in the asa is all you need. It shood last about a day or two of play.



Posted By: Langside
Date Posted: 19 February 2007 at 1:19am

Originally posted by TippmannsRkool9 TippmannsRkool9 wrote:

Well hybrid, no I'm not, I have had to deal with 3 tanks with the valves coming off and someone has had to repair them.

Well I blame you.I have had about 12 bottles and that has never happend.
Or you buy realy crappy bottles.



Posted By: kickinwing2010
Date Posted: 19 February 2007 at 1:23am
Originally posted by Langside Langside wrote:

Originally posted by TippmannsRkool9 TippmannsRkool9 wrote:

Well hybrid, no I'm not, I have had to deal with 3 tanks with the valves coming off and someone has had to repair them.

Well I blame you.I have had about 12 bottles and that has never happend.
Or you buy realy crappy bottles.



Ya im on my third bottle and I have never had a problem im completely gonna blame this on user error.


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Posted By: DeTrevni
Date Posted: 19 February 2007 at 1:51am
Well, someone just got fish slapped.

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Evil Elvis: "Detrevni is definally like a hillbilly hippy from hell"



Posted By: Styro Folme
Date Posted: 19 February 2007 at 3:59am
1.  oil on the threads is not necessary.

2.  I oil my threads 1 time when i first purchase the tank to make sure if it does get cross-threaded, i might be able to get it off.  (idiot friends)

3.  hybrid knows what he's talking about.

4.  make sure your tanks are assembled to where they won't explode, and they won't explode on you when you are doing something routine.


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X


Posted By: killerhalo
Date Posted: 19 February 2007 at 9:40am
i thought my threds became flame wars



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