Gasdrinker wrote: So I finished stripping the powder coat off of the A5 (again another A5) and this time i want to have a mirror polished alloy finish on it. Anyone know any type of clear coat that I can apply to stop any oxidization? I have looked all over Google but cant seem to find anything. Thanks in advance.

Actually, there are really no clear coatings that will protect the polished surface from oxidation. Paint seems to go after just about any finish I have tried. Once damaged the coatings actually hold the paint in pockets that damage the alloy.

A bright polish and a through water wet down and wipe after each day of play will keep it better looking longer than any coating...other than a high quality wax polish.

Gasdrinker wrote: i have also been looking into clear annos that just show the see through shine.. hrmmm...

Though the markers are made from aluminum alloy, according to others who have tried, you may find that they will not accept an anodized finish. But, that would be the absolute most durable finish one could apply. If you try, let us know how it turns out.

Monk wrote: Seeings as Aluminum oxidizes instantly. But the oxidization is very very thin. I dont think you would notice much. Just polish it every once in awhile and you should keep the look youre going for. I could be wrong about the Aluminum thing, its just what I remember from Chemistry awhile back.

That is true. All aluminum forms a thin oxide layer on the surface. The anodize finish is the same thing, only the process forms a much thicker layer.

Trouble is that some aluminum alloys, when put trough the anodize process just don't respond well...some alloys turn olive drab in color naturally. Some turn gray. Some alloys contain ingredients that are too reactive in the anodizing bath and the metal begins to dissolve.

The thin oxide layer that forms on polished aluminum's surface is thin and somewhat protective. But, chemicals, like water soluble paint, will still stain the surface if left in place for a day or two. But, as I said, wiping it down with a wet terry cloth towel after play should keep it shiney...and an occasional touch up with an aluminum polish like Flitz.

The metal Tippmann uses is an alloy of aluminum and Zinc (AKA , Pot Metal), great for casting in mass quantities , but the Zinc is very reactive in an anodize bath and any attempt to anodize a tippmann reciever will result in the sale of a new pair of clamshells to the owner of said marker . You've been warned .

Chrome or Nickle will adhere quite well to aluminum , tho they may require a copper strike (flash coat of .00005") to act as an intermediary bonding surface . there are two types of chrome available commercially , one is a "Hard" chrome and isnt as lustrous or bright , it is primarily an industrial wear surface for hydraulic shafts and pistons . the other , commonly referred to as Bumper chrome or Bright chrome is more for decorative uses , and quite suitable for marker bodies .

Most Milled marker bodies boast having "Aircraft Grade" aluminum , which in reality means the alloy is a 6000 series alloy (with traces of copper , mercury , beryllium , tin and whatever else depending on the specific alloy) .

The colors displayed by anodized 6000 series alloys are more indicative of the temperature and bath type the particular piece was anodized at . For Mil-spec alloys (6000 series , and the spec most commonly deferred to in aerospace surface treatment of aluminum alloys) there are "Type I" , "Type II" , "Type III" , and "Type IV". These "Types" of anodize each have their own  anodize bath temperature (also the biggest visual indicator of what type of bath was used) the coldest being an Olive drab color and the warmest being a "Clear anodize"(the warmest bath also produces the most porous surface , and the easiest to color with dyes . it also produces the softest and least protective coating of the anodize processes) .