Wut he said.

I wanna see pics, so hurry up! :P

That looks more like a 2k1ish P-Block. It's a nice 'cocker by the way. As for G-1, I'm not sure. Maybe a model number. Also, I notice a low pressure chamber on the front pneumatics. I don't know what the internals are, but it looks decently set up for LP...

I'm almost certain though that it's post 2k.

It could be an extended screw, as I have seen those before.

Edit: After looking, I think you're right. Probably just an extended screw to make removal easier.

Nice cocker.  Ive been meaning to ask both you guys for a while, not to jack the thread, but if a heavier hammer will put a great increase in kick.  Im looking at that AKA one as well as their valve and spring kits... but im wondering if the hammer would be worth it.  Now that im here, do we have all the "hardcore" cocker people on the forum here?

Wait, I found my answer from when I first started with cockers.

tallen wrote: Ahhhh 'cockers, us cocker guys are few and far between these days. Of course, you can still kick the crap out of people using a brand new ego with a mechanical 'cocker if you play well enough, I get the opportunity to do it on a weekly basis. Okay, enough reminiscing. To up your cycle rate without going electro, you need to modify the front block components and the sear/hammer components as they (other than your trigger finger) determine how quickly your marker cycles. The biggest factor is the 3-way coupled with the hammer/sear. If you can get a good hammer with a FLAT lug (think stock hammer lug) and a smooth sear that will allow you to time the firing point on the trigger all the way to the front (think 1mm pull length) and then have a 3-way that can set the re-cock point to almost immediately after that, then you'll have made major leaps to upping your firing rate. After all, the less distance you have to pull the trigger, the better. It helps stop short-stroking and in turn, helps to eliminate double-feeds and chopped balls. With the Hammer/Sear and 3-way out of the way, an adjustable LPR helps big time as well. Being able to up the pressure being put through the 3-way and into the ram gives you a faster cocking time (we're talking fractions of a second less, but it's still less) but it also means that if you DO have a ball only halfway into the chamber, you're definately going to chop it in half with higher ram-pressure. The other advantage to an adjustable lpr with a wide range of pressures is that you can adjust it so that you put less pressure through it and if it does happen to come up against a round only half-way dropped down the feed neck, it won't chop it, but will rest against it. A new ram will help sometimes as well. If it is a shortened ram (like a palmer's) it won't have as much distance to travel. The LPR can help in this as well as you can adjust how far back the ram and back-block go via the pressure set with the lpr. Less distance needed to cock the marker and chamber a ball = faster firing rate. Everything after those upgrades are pretty much semantics. Now, my suggestions: 3-way Palmer's quick switches are nice, but touchy, you loose out on some of the LPR low-pressure range features as it needs a higher-pressure to seat the o-rings properly. I have this on my marker right now, but the hissing gets annoying every once in a while. Also VERY touchy. It has a low margin for error. An easier 3-way that I've had great luck with is the old shocktech "bomb" 3-way. You'll wind up having to reverse your 3-way line (front to back and back to front) when you put it on, but it's a nice one. Very smooth and a wide operational range. Very forgiving. LPR: I've always liked my ANS Jackhammer II, but those are ancient by today's standards. Again, anything from Palmers will be good. So long as the pressure is regulated to stay the same even when firing fast, you'll be fine. Ram: I've got a palmer's short-ram on my 'cocker. I like it. But again, it can be fickle. Most aftermarket rams are going to be the same though. So just shoot for the middle of the pack and you won't be dissapointed Sear: Everyone seems to love the Belsales roller-sear. I can take it or leave it. I used to have an AKALMP hardened "skeletonized" sear on my marker. I wish I still did. It was crisp and didn't have as much trigger slop as my belsales does. The belsales is nice and buttery-smooth on the pull, but if you're looking for speed, crisp is the way to go. Hammer/Lug. A nice standard lug is best all around. If you plan on upgrading to an EBlade, you'll need to have a flat-bottomed lug anyway. It won't work with anything else. And again, you get that "crisp" feel from the trigger. You know you're reaching/reached the firing point that way. The best upgrade (which has little to do with cycling rates) you can do, however, is to get a matched set of springs (AKALMP "AKA") makes some good ones. The matched spring tension will give you much more regulated valve operation which leads to more consistent chronos and better groupings. Alright, that's all for this novella of a post. -tallen

okay.  I was just thinking, more moving wieght has to do something, but youre right.

tallen702 wrote: No-kick really. I've found that if tuned properly, despite what weight hammer you have, 'cockers don't have any kick aside from what movement your hands put on it when pulling the trigger (Middle finger FTW!!!!)

I've noticed that a LOT of people (myself included) prefer to shoot sliders with the middle finger.  Is this a cocker phenomenon, or am just imagining it?