i hate combustion, dosent always work, and is kinda loud, air cannons are way more better, there is a 99% chance that an air cannon thats filled will shoot as soon as the valve opens, i can shoot paintballs out of my barrel like a mortor launcher about 100yards, and its pretty accurate, good and easy way to paintball someones car on a extreamly hot day.

As rednekk said, NEVER use smokeless.

I know a fair portion of you guys are borderline retarded, so I will repeat this again.

Black powder, flash powder and smokeless are NOT the same thing, nor are they even anywhere near close.

Also watch the difference between ball-based and extruded/granular or paste based compositions. Beacuse they look, feel, smell or appear to be similar does NOT mean that they are.

Bottom line, if you don't know what you're doing (which most all of us don't) DO NOT even think about trying.

Oh, real men use scedule 180 pipe. Sissies.

Belt #2 wrote: As rednekk said, NEVER use smokeless. I know a fair portion of you guys are borderline retarded, so I will repeat this again. Black powder, flash powder and smokeless are NOT the same thing, nor are they even anywhere near close. Also watch the difference between ball-based and extruded/granular or paste based compositions. Beacuse they look, feel, smell or appear to be similar does NOT mean that they are. Bottom line, if you don't know what you're doing (which most all of us don't) DO NOT even think about trying.   Oh, real men use scedule 180 pipe. Sissies.

if you dont know the difference between those powders, then just stick to store bought, or sparkler bombs.

were do you even get sch 180 pipe?

good luck finding sch. 180.

It's marked as "Extra heavy duty." Sch. 180 has the highest pressure rating of just about any straight piping out there. To find anything higher, you'd have to custom order.

I don't even know if you could find sch. 180 PVC. It may be a special ordered industrial type thing.

Google it. C-PVC is what you want, I believe.

i never heard of that befor, i thought that there was nothing stronger than sch 40, then after that it went to metal pipes...

As far as PVC goes, I'm not sure if the rating scale even goes to 180.

I know for sure that PVC (depending on the particullar chemical variety, addition of specific plasticisers, rated uses and environmental characteristics) schedule ratings reach as high as sch. 80. My dad's pipe fitter buddy mentioned sch. 120 on a few occasions.

I know for sure that metal pipe can reach anywhere from sch. 10 to sch. 180 depending on a few defining factors and specific alloy factors.

Sounds like it's time to hit up an encyclopedia.

636andy636. wrote: Ben Dover1 wrote: i never heard of that befor, i thought that there was nothing stronger than sch 40, then after that it went to metal pipes... Sch 80 is avail at most hardware stores. Good up untill 800 psi

Depending on ambient temperatures, ambient heat, added heat with in a certain time frame, water absorbtion characteristics, chemicals present, chemical compositions and formulas, molecular framing, fittings used, the gluing (or more commonly) chemical welding materials ad methods used.....

The list drags on.

Just beacuse the label says "x" psi does not really mean "x" psi after you figure in all of the other nounces that really go into a fitting system, or how they affect the end result (i.e. whether or not you die)

"I know, if somethings rated to 800 psi it does not mean you should keep 800 psi in it at at all times. Probably only has a working load of 500 psi and a max pressure of 800 psi"

Not really, on account of liability.

Think about it, moron buys pipe from home depot, runs it to max capacity and pipe blows up "oh well, the label SAYS..."

Cue to law suite.

If the label says "max pressure of..." The actual max SUSTAINED pressure under ideal lab conditions is usually MUCH higher (but not always) to partially compensate for environmental factors such as heat, and wear-and-tear.

Bottom line? Stay as far away from maximum breaking strength (especially), and maximum working load as you possibly can. Just play it safe, do your research and don't be an idiot [the key to hapiness and fulfillment in western society]. There is nothing wrong with spending an extra $20 on materials to get the highest grade anything you can find. It's all in the same of safety.

Yes, but isn't ABS much more brittle and less flexible?

Ghost-Rider wrote: Your not supposed to use ABS, it will explode.

That's what I thought.

My experience with ABS left me thinking that it was qutie brittle, and very inflexable. It has been stated that ABS is more chemical resistant that most varieties of PVC, although I have no idea of the heat ratings. But as far as poly-vinyl compuonds go, you can't get much tougher on the heat-end as C-PVC.

And that's not even taking into account the fact that ABS will kill you twice as fast as standard PVC.

My notion would be to just use metallic based pipes (but NOT cast iron -just trust me on this one, cast iron is the least flexible of most common iron flavors (as far as items a hardware store would stock.) It cracks outstandingly easy, mainly due to a very high carbon content, about 2 to 4% as opposed to .15 to 1.5% for most steels (sometimes up to 2 % in special situations). Not to mention the inherient high levels of contaminants that find their way into the ingot due to the very nature of the casting process, oxidation, slag, millscale and any minimal (or no) extruding that may or (usually) may not follow.

Seamless extruded metallic piping (or tubing, depending on dimentions) of schedule 40 to schedule 180 would be your best bet. Threaded fittings are most reliable for most people, assuming you have more than the 5 brain cells required to construct an adequate system, taking into account gas flow, pressures, flexability, warping, and the whole lot. Leak free is the key.

Welding is actually the most reliable method, it's just that most all people out there who call themselves welders couldn't form a decent, coherent pipe weld to save their lives (which is actually what you're looking for in this situation). And this is coming from a guy who can, himself, barely form a pipe weld, let alone a full penetration open root pass.

The sad part is, number one, that none of you care.

number two is, I have just provided a very small wealth of information that none of you (excepting a very small number) will even give a second glance, much less attempt to digest, or even understand; for that matter.

The information you need to do the job correctly and more importantly, safely, is all out there, and easily aquired. It's just that, all you morons use PVC out of a wealth of other reasons which I have no right to divulge in, much less point out in the simplest of diatribes.

Don't be an idiot, use metal. I don't care what your print out instructions say, much less what is avaliable at the local home depot. If you had more than 3 brain cells you'd be using something a hell-of-a-lot more reliable than a piece of plastic.

All of that aside, have fun blowing stuff up. Videos much appreciated.

White gas will get the job DONE.

Be careful though, as if you use it too liberally you may be done also.

friendly words of advise, take it for what it's worth.

Suger plus kno3(in my case stump killer)= my smoke bombs.

Flash powder does have a nice bang to it. But you couldn't use flash powder that well to propel an artillery shell into the air. The good thing about BP is that it burns slower letting it push the shell up or the stars out.

Edit: post count is 2727 and my post count per day is 2.7  This beats 1337