Another new A5 breaking paint
Printed From: Tippmann Paintball
Category: Paintball Equipment
Forum Name: Gun Maintenace and Repair
Forum Description: Important info for keeping your marker in top shape
URL: http://www.tippmannsports.com/forum/wwf77a/forum_posts.asp?TID=169403
Printed Date: 15 December 2025 at 7:05pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.04 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Another new A5 breaking paint
Posted By: Biggziff
Subject: Another new A5 breaking paint
Date Posted: 13 August 2007 at 1:22pm
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Got a 3 month old A5, Vortex, Egrip/WAS, Lightening rod, QEPH, insides polished, cyclone bottom cover screws shortened (to prevent poking the balls in the cyclone), chrono'd at around 280-290, co2 with remote, everything else is stock. Turned the WAS down to 10 BPS, 3 shot. Tried this with my Flatline and a 12" and 14" edge with both .691 and .693 backs. Used Big Balls and Rainbow. 80 degree day, low humidity, playing in the shade. No matter what I do, the thing breaks paint. With the flatty it's either in the breech or in the barrel, with the Edge it's mainly in the barrel. I might get one or two good balls then some flyers and then a bunch of soup...lather, rinse, repeat. I've called Tippmann and they said it's probably the paint, yet 3 other guys shooting the same paint with 98Cs had zero issues with the same barrels. I've checked the inside for burrs, the barrels and adapter and everything is smooooooth. New battery in the egrip, gun has less than a case of paint through it. I'm considering a Palmer's stabilizer, but this thing should shoot better than this with the mods I've listed, no? I've shot competitively for 20 years (high power, IDPA, NYSPPA, etc) and do all my own smithing so I have some experience around firearms, but this has me pretty frustrated at this point.... |
Replies:
Posted By: RoboCop
Date Posted: 13 August 2007 at 1:58pm
| Maybe just a bad batch of paint. How old is the paint? You shouldn't be chopping paint. All I can think is that the paintballs are too big for the barrels. |
Posted By: jesseat956
Date Posted: 13 August 2007 at 2:05pm
| robocop is right there dosent seem to be any other reason right now |
Posted By: Biggziff
Date Posted: 13 August 2007 at 2:54pm
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Paint is coming from a local shop that sells it by the pallet. It's the freshest we can get. When I put the .693 back on, I could literally drop the paint through the back. Seems like it was plenty big enough for the paint I was using. I ordered a Palmer's stab today to add that to the mix. I did another complete disassembly last night and cleaned everything, relubed/greased..so I'll try some test shots this afternoon. Any other ideas would be welcome |
Posted By: RoboCop
Date Posted: 13 August 2007 at 3:56pm
| Never heard anything about cutting the cyclone screws. I wouldn't see how that would affect anything. |
Posted By: Biggziff
Date Posted: 13 August 2007 at 3:59pm
| The bottom cover screws can be screwed in far enough to poke up into the cyclone. They're very sharp and will cut balls. I just filed them down 1/16" to be sure they cannot be driven too far up. |
Posted By: RoboCop
Date Posted: 13 August 2007 at 4:14pm
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Check to make syre the breach is clean of anything that might bust a few balls. |
Posted By: Biggziff
Date Posted: 13 August 2007 at 4:53pm
| ya, I've already polished everything, checked for any burrs, etc. Everything is very, very smooth now. Wasn't really any burrs to begine with. |
Posted By: jesseat956
Date Posted: 13 August 2007 at 7:01pm
what does polishing do for a gun? just wondering
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Posted By: RoboCop
Date Posted: 13 August 2007 at 7:42pm
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Polishing actually means just cleaning off the overspray paint that can slow down internals. Not really using polish. |
Posted By: Biggziff
Date Posted: 13 August 2007 at 8:11pm
You use something like 00 steel wool or 1800 grit silicon carbide wet/dry sandpaper. I use 1600 grit SC and soapy water to smooth and actually polish any surface that touches another surface or has something rubbing against it. While it's true you remove the overspray, which is rough, you're also creating surfaces that have much less friction even when unlubricated. Less friction means faster cycling, less effort to cycle and less heat...all very good things. If you get too crazy and actually use something like a polishing wheel and polishing compound, you could actually make things worse as you begin to close up the tiny holes, pits and craters in the metal that will act as little pools to hold the lubricant causing the lube to wash off the metal easier. This is why when you rebuild an engine, you always cross hatch the cylinder walls both to help seat the rings and hold more oil during startup when lubricity is low. |
jesseat956 wrote:Posted By: jesseat956
Date Posted: 13 August 2007 at 9:24pm
| wow ok thats totally diffrent from what i thought thanx |