When I was chronoing yesterday I was getting shots like 281, 298, 301, 260, 160, 275 and so on, on HPA, decent paint, and a good kit on a older 98. I'm thinking its something with my valve, cause everything else is fine (cept my RT, which wasn't working with HPA and worked wonders with CO2, but thats another deal). Do you know if Tippmann updated their valves for 98's like they did A5's? If so, I'm getting one.

Also, could I mod a Ion/Angel/etc stock board to use on a sear tripper. Probably not, cause they have eyes, but I need a dirt cheap board.

Edit: Does anyone know the deminsions of a AGD Warp Feed, and any personal expierence with them? I'm about to start work on my mag project and need deminsions

What would be a good example of a stiffer spring to buy?

tallen702 wrote: yeah, you could probably mod an LED board to run the circuit since it was basically an on/off value. Also, no eyes. As for the inconsistency. I'm actually going to say that if you are running with the straight RT, you're going to have issues with HPA in the older valves. The CVX was basically designed to run off of CO2 come heck or high-water (I.E. even in the middle of winter with no X-Chamber) and not cause velocity spikes. I'd suggest getting a stronger drive spring and performing the super-RT mod to allow for the needed increase in air-flow to get the whole shebang working. By increasing the drive-spring tension you are basically increasing the dwell time on the valve. This should give you more of a volume of air at the given output pressure from the tank. It'll decrease your efficiency, but increase your consistency at the chrono. Also, depending on the HPA tank's reg, you may be getting a bit of a suffocation problem with the pin-valve and the reg. Try backing the tank off 1/8th of a turn once you have it screwed all the way in and see if this fixes the problem. If you get massive shoot-down during bursts of fire, it's a sign of starvation. If you don't, then my guess is that you need to up the dwell time with a stiffer spring.

This post inspired me

I know that RTs always worked better with CO2, but I may try your idea tallen, thanks.

Also, with the board, how much modding would be needed? I understand the basic principle, and I know how a sear tripper works, but I'm not 1337 with electronics.

Edit: Can someone answer the Warp feed question I put in the first post if you didnt see it

Hello All,

I am brand new to this forum. I am glad I finally found it.  I am also having the same issue with my A-5 and inconsistant shots at the Chrono.  Notice that I get some spikes and some drops on the FPS.  I clearly notice this after I got new Crossfire 4500/88Ci/high output tank 850psi.  The gun set up is as follows:  External: AR-15 Style. Internals: TechT Vortex and rod for the cyclone, ShockTech bolt, internals were polish, E-Trigger w/WAS-basically the gun has a real Kick A$$ set up with all sorts of goodies. However the inconsistant shots is driving me nuts. I have replaced the rear drive bolt spring-that was sent to me by Tippmann.  It may not have enough tension causing dwell with the shots. On order right now, I have a new Alluminum vavle body coming in, thinking that may cure the issue.  I guess I am just trying different things to see where the problem is.  I am very puzzled at this point.  If any of you guys or gals have any suggestions please let me know. Thank you

Ozzy 

Tallen702, Do you have a myspace account.  The picture of the gun is on my myspace account-I will send you a PM for the direct link.

The stock is a TAPCO AR-15 stock. 

I thinking that the REG on the new tank may be the issue, because my other tank from Java 4500 68CI 850 High Output seems pretty consistant. Question is, does it take a while for these tanks to break in?   

Cool beans, thats what I was thinking with making a shim.  I will give that shot, after work today I will try some experiments and see what I come up with.

Thank you

Hey Tallen,

I call Tippmann and research the issue further-I conducted an experiment the other day with hand held chronograph.  I tested with two tanks (4500/68Ci/850Output and 4500/88/850Output) both high output.  I tested them with two different remote lines.  Now I know that the hand helds are not that arcurate, but it gives me a feel for what is coming out of the gun.  I tried to put a shim in the back hole of the stock too to put more tension on the spring.  Still having the issue with inconsistancy. I wrote down on a piece of paper what I was getting.  Notice that shots were coming out between 190 through 290 with out touching the velocity screw. So the only thing I can think of and this is what Tippmann believes also is that body valve and valve internals need to be replaced.  Aside from that, I ordered a JCS valve body and a brand new valve too from Tippmann parts.com 

So hopefully this will fix it.  Seems like a common issue with Tippmann guns.  Hopefully the company at some point will improve upon the design. 

Thank you again for all your help

Ozzy

That's all pretty expensive isin't it?

Why not get a used a5 of pbnation.com? It might be cheaper than what you are looking to do.