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a-5 lpk, high velocity, weak blowback

Printed From: Tippmann Paintball
Category: Paintball Equipment
Forum Name: Gun Maintenace and Repair
Forum Description: Important info for keeping your marker in top shape
URL: http://www.tippmannsports.com/forum/wwf77a/forum_posts.asp?TID=173118
Printed Date: 06 September 2026 at 10:34am
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Topic: a-5 lpk, high velocity, weak blowback
Posted By: smanski
Subject: a-5 lpk, high velocity, weak blowback
Date Posted: 28 January 2008 at 6:49pm

My A-5 (LPK, CO2, Palmers stab, polished internals) shoots hot with the PSI I have to use to get it to recock.  I have to turn the FVA all the way in to get it below 300 FPS.  After polishing the internals, I had to bump the PSI from 375 to about 425 to get it to recock consistently.  I expected the opposite.  The rear bolt slides much easier with the polished internals so it baffles me why I had to jack up the PSI.  Would a softer rear spring lower the velocity and make it easier for the rear bolt to come far enough back to catch the sear?



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smanski



Replies:
Posted By: tippmannfreak
Date Posted: 28 January 2008 at 6:53pm
wait...are you running co2 on an lpk'd A-5?


Posted By: smanski
Date Posted: 28 January 2008 at 7:31pm

Co2 with the Palmers regulator.  The reg set at 375 PSI before polishing the internals.  Had to set it to 425 PSI after the polish to get enough blowback to get it to recock.  At 375 and 425, I have to turn the FVA most of the way in to get the velocity below 300.  That happens even though my paint rolls right through the barrel.  With tight fitting paint, I think I would get even a higher velocity.  I basically get too much air going out and not enough blowback.  I am thinking the rear spring is too strong - hits the valve too hard producing high velocity and too strong for full bolt return to cocking position.



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smanski


Posted By: thejudge
Date Posted: 28 January 2008 at 7:37pm
The lpk isnt meant for CO2.  If you want to run CO2 take off the LPK.  If you want to run HPA leave it on.

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Stay low, run fast, and hope that paintball doesn't hit your...
http://www.deltasquad.info/">


Posted By: Susan Storm
Date Posted: 28 January 2008 at 7:47pm

You may have overpolished, to the point where you have a leak around the hammer o-ring, resulting in additional air required for recocking.

Can you hear anything like a leak when pressurized?

Your fix may be just a fatter o-ring for the hammer.  Or new receiver halves.



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"No society can surely be flourishing and happy, of which the far greater part of the members are poor and miserable."


Posted By: smanski
Date Posted: 28 January 2008 at 7:52pm

Would that have anything to do with the high velocity, hard to recock problem?  If the reg gets the pressure where it should be, what would the type gas matter?  I am new to paintball so I in the learning stages.  I love to tinker and I am facinated with the gun, upgrading and learning what everything does.  I plan to go to HPA in the future but can't get it refilled anywhere close to home.   I am looking into my own filling setup.



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smanski


Posted By: smanski
Date Posted: 28 January 2008 at 7:58pm

I feel like my polishing job was on the lite side.  I used brillo pads and polished only a few minutes.  From reading some of the polishing info, it seemed it went quicker for me than typical.  I don't hear any leaking.  Does most of the blowback force come while the hammer is inside the powertube or does it continue after it exits?  With the high velocity problem, what do you think about a softer rear spring?



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smanski


Posted By: Susan Storm
Date Posted: 28 January 2008 at 8:37pm

Softer rear springs generally make it harder for the gun to recock.  Softer rear spring = less force pushing on the valve = less air coming from the valve to recock.

Softer rear springs is a common way to increase efficiency by reducing the amount of air used for blowback.  In your case, you might been a stronger rear spring, but that would also increase your velocity, so that's no good.

Hmm.  Interesting problem.  I shall ponder - hopefully somebody smart will come by in the meantime.



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"No society can surely be flourishing and happy, of which the far greater part of the members are poor and miserable."


Posted By: Ilford Rule
Date Posted: 28 January 2008 at 9:40pm
Try it with an air tank if you can get your hands on one. I can't see how that could make a major difference if your using a Palmers, but just in case. Are you using the full LPK? If you don't have the correct valve spring, that could cause this issue. Try a lighter valve spring if you can find one.

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CPro (w/ polished internals)
14" Bigshot
BT SBS
Various Rails
NcSTAR D4B
Macro
AA 68/45

CCI Phantom
45 Grips


Posted By: smanski
Date Posted: 28 January 2008 at 10:41pm
I am using the full kit.  I got it new for $50 so I had to give it a try.  How does the blowback pressure get back to push the rear bolt back?  The valve is solid on the backside, with no openings to send air back.  I know it happens somehow, but I don't see a path for air to push the rear bolt back. 

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smanski


Posted By: thejudge
Date Posted: 28 January 2008 at 11:31pm
the little pin on the back of the power tube pushes it back w/ air pressure I believe. 

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Stay low, run fast, and hope that paintball doesn't hit your...
http://www.deltasquad.info/">


Posted By: smanski
Date Posted: 29 January 2008 at 1:32pm

Some pics of the 2 valves provided by JackRock showed me what I was looking for.  I am new (1 month) to paintball so I haven't figured out all the terms, which was causing some misunderstanding.  I was interested in the part of the shaft of the valve plunger that sticks out the back of the valve body and is struck by the hammer.  The one that came in my gun was tapered so, as it was pushed in by the hammer, the gap between the hole and the shaft got bigger and allowed more blowback air to send the hammer back to recock.  My LPK valve plunger shaft looks like the pic and is thicker and untapered.  There is noticably less gap in the plunger hole in the back of my LPK valve over my stock valve when the plunger shaft is pushed in.  After verifying the plunger shaft was correct, I disassembled the valve, cleaned and oiled everything and put it back in.  My first dry shot (PSI about 425) went pop-pop-pop and then it recocked.  My second shot recocked as it should.  Every shot after that recocked correctly.  I dropped the pressure on my Palmers to about 400 and every shot recocked correctly.  I kept dropping the PSI until I was down to about 350 and it was still recocking correctly.  I plan to visit the local PB park today to set the velocity.  Now that the gun is recocking correctly without having to jack up the PSI, I hope to get my velocity right without having to use all the FVA.  I am glad I had this trouble because I went from knowing nothing about the gun to having a pretty good beginners knowledge of the gun and how it all works.  This hobby is a blast.



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smanski



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