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Problem with 98c w/A.C.T

Printed From: Tippmann Paintball
Category: Paintball Equipment
Forum Name: Gun Maintenace and Repair
Forum Description: Important info for keeping your marker in top shape
URL: http://www.tippmannsports.com/forum/wwf77a/forum_posts.asp?TID=173797
Printed Date: 03 June 2026 at 8:03pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.04 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: Problem with 98c w/A.C.T
Posted By: inf3kt
Subject: Problem with 98c w/A.C.T
Date Posted: 28 February 2008 at 1:09am
Hi,

Just bought a 98c with A.C.T and I installed some upgrades on it recently and it started acting weird after the upgrades. I put a Macroline Kit on it as well as a Tippmann X-Chamber and Orange Howitzer bolt.

I hadn't tested anything since the upgrades because I didn't have any paint. Today I tested it and for some reason after every 3rd or 4th shot it would uncock it self and do the machine gun thing. Maybe my C02 is low or I didn't put something in right i don't know. I'm going paintballing this weekend so I kinda need a fix for it asap.

Thanks.



Replies:
Posted By: motopsycho650
Date Posted: 01 March 2008 at 11:10am
I've heard the Orange Howitzer bolt can be a bit too tight fitting on the stock power tube.  People have suggested sanding the power tube slightly to make sure the Howitzer bolt can slide freely.  I'd be willing to be it's something like that.  Only other thing I can think of is that the macroline kit is restricting the air flow too much.

Hope that helps.
http://www.pbreview.com/products/reviews/4966/ -


Posted By: StormyKnight
Date Posted: 01 March 2008 at 1:25pm

Does sound like low C02.  Why did you change out the bolt?



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Posted By: inf3kt
Date Posted: 01 March 2008 at 8:15pm
It wasn't low c02. I went and played today and all day the gun was underpreforming. Uncocking itself and everything. I was told that when its really cold out that the X-Chamber is not a good thing to have so I think maybe the X-Chamber was the problem. Im going to try a couple of different combinations with parts. If nothing works im just going to switch to HPA.




Posted By: StormyKnight
Date Posted: 01 March 2008 at 11:18pm

Originally posted by inf3kt inf3kt wrote:

I was told that when its really cold out that the X-Chamber is not a good thing to have so I think maybe the X-Chamber was the problem.

And you took them for their word?  No logical reason given?  Before you give up on C02, put your stock bolt back in and see if that changes anything.  Don't throw more money at a problem in the hopes that will be the solution.  Tippmann markers usually work best with their stock internal components.  Swap the bolt out before you do anything else. 



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Posted By: inf3kt
Date Posted: 02 March 2008 at 12:42am
The one Tech there thats seems to know a lot and gave me a huge explanation of what could be going on with the combination of the X-Chamber and the Howitzer bolt and even he recommended changing back to the stock bolt. Or trying the Howitzer bolt without the X-Chamber.

I did swap out the Howitzer for the stock one and tried it outside my house but it wasn't as nearly cold as it was at the field this morning and my tank was not fresh filled like it was at the field. This morning I waited about 1 hour and kept the tank wrapped up in rags and under my arm to try and warm it up before the first games but it didn't really help. In the afternoon it seemed to be ok but still uncocked if I really started firing fast.

Im going to have to wait until next weekend to really see if the Howitzer is the problem.

Thanks for you help.


Posted By: jordanpischke
Date Posted: 02 March 2008 at 2:06am
I could be wrong, but it is my understanding that an x chamber will make your 98 work better in cold weather not make it worse. And as already stated your 98 doesn't really need it's internal parts upgraded.

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Posted By: motopsycho650
Date Posted: 02 March 2008 at 10:42am
I should have posted this link before.  http://www.pbreview.com/products/reviews/4966/ - PBReviews

I have a tippmann x-chamber on both my M98's and have never had an issue like that.  I do not have macro line or a howetzer thought.



Posted By: Mack
Date Posted: 02 March 2008 at 11:33am
inf3kt:

I can not imagine any reason for a bolt/expansion chamber conflict in a Tippmann marker.  The relationship between the two parts just makes it highly unlikely.

It could be an expansion chamber problem although I've usually seen good results with the Tippmann chambers.  It is possible that small apertures inside the expansion chamber (which help prevent liquid CO2 from entering the marker) are getting blocked by liquid CO2 freezing into a solid form during firing.

You should also keep in mind that CO2 becomes less effective as temps drop below 55-60 F.

I would however try replacing just the bolt first.  The link that moto posted above was quite useful.  The bolt description mentions an internal o-ring that seals around the power tube.  If this ring is too tight, it could be creating friction which interferes with the free movement of internal parts.  That additional friction combined with the lowered CO2 performance due to the cold weather conditions could be sufficient to produce the problems you mentioned.

The marketing for the Orange Howitzer bolt really annoys me.

Originally posted by Manufacturer Description Manufacturer Description wrote:

The Howitzer is made of Polyoxymethyl (better known as "POM") which is an easily sliding and self lubricant plastic that makes any internal scratching of the marker impossible. The tip of the bolt is fade coloured orange. A second internal o-ring is sealing the air between the powertube and the bolt. The result is a higher (gas/air) efficiency and better performance of the complete system.

The claim of better efficiency (at least on stock Tippmanns) is BS
  • The Tippmann velocity adjuster interferes with the speed of gas release, not the amount.
  • The same amount of gas is released with every shot.
  • Even if this bolt does seal better, the same amount of gas will still be released with every shot, just at a slower rate when velocity is adjusted back down to the desired level using the stock adjuster
  • There might be an efficiency increase if a rear velocity adjuster was installed in conjunction with this bolt, but the manufacturer doesn't mention that.


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Posted By: inf3kt
Date Posted: 02 March 2008 at 1:00pm
Originally posted by jordanpischke jordanpischke wrote:

I could be wrong, but it is my understanding that an x chamber will make your 98 work better in cold weather not make it worse. And as already stated your 98 doesn't really need it's internal parts upgraded.


This was my understanding as well. Its pretty cold where I play on the weekends until the afternoon. This weekend it was probably 2 or 3 degrees celcius and when the afternoon came around probably around 10.

When I would finish a round there was condensation all over my gun. The barrel was wet as well as the gun.

I did switch out the howitzer bolt yesterday but I will have to wait until the weekend to try it out and see if its ok. I was going to Polish my internals with the instructions that I found on a forum and I was going to order a new power tube since the plastic one is a joke and weak.

Before I bought that bolt I remember reading somewhere that on some 98c's you had to take out that internal O-ring because it would cause to much friction as you mentioned. I dont know if its true or not so I didn't do it.

Thanks for all the info and suggestions as well. I read through those reviews on the link.


Posted By: inf3kt
Date Posted: 02 March 2008 at 7:30pm
For the past hour or so I have been reading about X-Chambers and Regulators and such because the problem is really bothering me.

A lot of articles I have read say X-Chambers are not good and that regulators are way better and HPA is the best. So if I can't get this setup that I have now to work right i'm going to try a Regulator and if that doesn't work I can get a brand new HPA tank for 90$ from a Local where I live.

http://www.pukindogspaintball.com/misc/REGVX.htm - http://www.pukindogspaintball.com/misc/REGVX.htm

That site gives alot of good info on both of them.
http://www.98og.net/98og/editpost.php?do=editpost&p=2883" name="vB::QuickEdit::2883">Edit/Delete Message


Posted By: Enos Shenk
Date Posted: 03 March 2008 at 10:30am
Originally posted by inf3kt inf3kt wrote:

and I was going to order a new power tube since the plastic one is a joke and weak.


You dont learn, do you?

For the fifth or so time this thread, you dont need to upgrade the bolt or powertube. The stock parts are perfectly fine.

"weak" if you pull the powertube out and bend it with your hands maybe. But the part is just fine for what it does, sits inside the gun, holds the valve and guides the front bolt. The operation of the gun will never break the thing, so why screw with it?


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Posted By: StormyKnight
Date Posted: 03 March 2008 at 3:35pm

"Grasshopper" here hears, but he does not listen.  The path to wisdom is blocked by such obtacles.



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Posted By: Mack
Date Posted: 03 March 2008 at 6:50pm
Originally posted by StormyKnight StormyKnight wrote:

"Grasshopper" here hears, but he does not listen.  The path to wisdom is blocked by such obtacles.






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Posted By: inf3kt
Date Posted: 03 March 2008 at 8:07pm
Its not that I dont learn I just like to have good components so I can get the best out of all my stuff.

-------------
98c W/ A.C.T
Polished Internals
12" J&J Ceramic Barrel
Tippmann X-Chamber(palmer reg if this fails)
Drop Forward


Posted By: Enos Shenk
Date Posted: 04 March 2008 at 3:09pm
You HAVE good components.

The powertube does exactly what its designed to do, contain the valve, guide the front bolt, and guide the air to the ball. THATS IT. It sits there inside the gun, theres no stresses acting on it for the most part, the plastic ones never break, so why pay money for an overhyped metal one?

If you buy a metal powertube, or a different front bolt, you wont gain effeciency, you wont gain accuracy, you wont gain anything except peace of mind that if the Incredible Hulk shows up and throws your gun against a tree, the powertube might survive.

Theres no concievable situation in normal operation that would cause the powertube to fail. So why worry about it? Save your money, buy some paint.


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Posted By: inf3kt
Date Posted: 09 March 2008 at 5:55pm
Turns out it was the Howitzer Bolt that was causing all the problems. My gun worked flawlessly yesterday and I had a consistent velo @ 280-290 all day.

-------------
98c W/ A.C.T
Polished Internals
12" J&J Ceramic Barrel
Tippmann X-Chamber(palmer reg if this fails)
Drop Forward


Posted By: Ace_Of_Spades
Date Posted: 09 March 2008 at 7:29pm

Originally posted by inf3kt inf3kt wrote:

Turns out it was the Howitzer Bolt that was causing all the problems. My gun worked flawlessly yesterday and I had a consistent velo @ 280-290 all day.

if it was working flawlessly as you say...why spend almost $30 on a metal powertube, why not use it for something like QEPH or lighting rod (if you hvae a cyclone feeder that is) like Enos said, the only thing a metal powertube does is gives u the reassurance that it wont break if the Hulk gets ahold of it.



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J. Thompson #5150- http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=2945831 - Happiness Is A Tupperware Fed Weapon


Posted By: nickname
Date Posted: 09 March 2008 at 11:38pm
Well did you try sanding down the part of the powertube that guides the bolt's movement as the instructions suggest you do?


Posted By: inf3kt
Date Posted: 10 March 2008 at 10:29am
Originally posted by Ace_Of_Spades Ace_Of_Spades wrote:

Originally posted by inf3kt inf3kt wrote:

Turns out it was the Howitzer Bolt that was causing all the problems. My gun worked flawlessly yesterday and I had a consistent velo @ 280-290 all day.

if it was working flawlessly as you say...why spend almost $30 on a metal powertube, why not use it for something like QEPH or lighting rod (if you hvae a cyclone feeder that is) like Enos said, the only thing a metal powertube does is gives u the reassurance that it wont break if the Hulk gets ahold of it.



I didn't buy another powertube.


-------------
98c W/ A.C.T
Polished Internals
12" J&J Ceramic Barrel
Tippmann X-Chamber(palmer reg if this fails)
Drop Forward


Posted By: thejudge
Date Posted: 10 March 2008 at 12:26pm
I was gonna stay out of this one but I might as well throw out my 2 cents.  Just stick with the stock internals.  I have had mine for 5 years now and run it pretty hard.  I have used 11-13 bps most of the time and never had a problem.  As for switching to HPA yes HPA is more consistent.  I would reccommend saving up for a carbon fiber tank though.  They are much lighter and if you get a 4500 psi tank and can get it filled to 4500 psi you will get more shots per tank.   You can till use a 4500 tank even if the field can only fill to 3000 psi too. 

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Stay low, run fast, and hope that paintball doesn't hit your...
http://www.deltasquad.info/">


Posted By: Ace_Of_Spades
Date Posted: 10 March 2008 at 1:32pm
Originally posted by inf3kt inf3kt wrote:

Originally posted by Ace_Of_Spades Ace_Of_Spades wrote:

Originally posted by inf3kt inf3kt wrote:

Turns out it was the Howitzer Bolt that was causing all the problems. My gun worked flawlessly yesterday and I had a consistent velo @ 280-290 all day.

if it was working flawlessly as you say...why spend almost $30 on a metal powertube, why not use it for something like QEPH or lighting rod (if you hvae a cyclone feeder that is) like Enos said, the only thing a metal powertube does is gives u the reassurance that it wont break if the Hulk gets ahold of it.


I didn't buy another powertube.

u said u were, i was giving you some helpful advice so u wouldnt waste $30



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J. Thompson #5150- http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=2945831 - Happiness Is A Tupperware Fed Weapon



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