Stock Pro/Carbine - Velocity too low...
Printed From: Tippmann Paintball
Category: Paintball Equipment
Forum Name: Gun Maintenace and Repair
Forum Description: Important info for keeping your marker in top shape
URL: http://www.tippmannsports.com/forum/wwf77a/forum_posts.asp?TID=174010
Printed Date: 27 September 2024 at 7:25pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.04 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Stock Pro/Carbine - Velocity too low...
Posted By: motopsycho650
Subject: Stock Pro/Carbine - Velocity too low...
Date Posted: 09 March 2008 at 7:35am
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Last weekend I bought a used Pro/Carbine for a good price and all it was missing was the velocity screw. I ordered another one, totally went through the gun, cleaning & oiling it. Yesterday, I want to a field and got to chrono it for the first time. I could not get it to shoot above 270 fps, (this field limits at 300 fps). I had the velocity screw almost screwed all the way out, (probably one turn from falling out). I was also running a full CO2 tank at the time. I have 2 thoughts. The screw it's self is plastic, so I could cut it a bit shorter. This should keep spring tension on it even if it's turned out a lot. The second thought is the drive spring is weak. I have no idea how many rounds went through this gun before, but it looked pretty un-used when I bought it. Any other ideas I haven't thought of? |
Replies:
Posted By: Mack
Date Posted: 09 March 2008 at 1:04pm
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The drive spring idea is a valid possibility; cutting the velocity adjuster screw is not. You could try adding a small spacer behind the drive pin to put more tension on the spring. I know some people used to use a BB for this back in the day. Just make sure that whatever you use can be easily removed in case you change your mind. Given the time of year and the fact that you mentioned using CO2, I have to ask; what was the temperature? (Keep in mind that CO2 is temp sensitive.) http://www.warpig.com/paintball/technical/gasses/co2pv.gif - CO2 temp/pressure chart . ------------- 
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Posted By: ShortyBP
Date Posted: 09 March 2008 at 3:17pm
I agree with Mack. No need to cut the screw, although if you really really wanted to... don't cut it so short as to make it useless from here on out and/or unable to hold the powertube in place. My guess would be the need for a new drive spring. Will be the same spring as found in 98/A5/X7, etc |
Mack wrote:Posted By: thejudge
Date Posted: 10 March 2008 at 12:24am
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A spring kit might work too. If I am wrong please correct me. That way you could get a stiffer spring though. ------------- Stay low, run fast, and hope that paintball doesn't hit your... http://www.deltasquad.info/"> 
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Posted By: Snake6.
Date Posted: 10 March 2008 at 2:28pm
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Yeah, Spring kit is the way to go. Instead of paying $5 for a stock spring, pay $5 and have the Maddmann Spring kit. ------------- 
http://paintballchat.org - Paintball Chat I'm at work, Leave me alone!!! |
Posted By: Maddman
Date Posted: 10 March 2008 at 11:19pm
Thanks man. You can find them all over the internet and in your local pro shop. Let us know if you need some help installing the spring kit. |
Posted By: motopsycho650
Date Posted: 11 March 2008 at 7:22am
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Well, I haven't made it back to a chrono yet. When I bought the gun used, the velocity screw was missing. I figured there was maybe a problem with it falling out on that gun, so I ordered a spare screw & spring. If the previous owner had it screwed out as far as I did, no wonder it fell out. Point is, I can easily undo this if it doesn't work. I used a grinding wheel and a thread die on one of the screws, taking off only about 1/8". There is still plenty to hold the power tube in. If it doesn't work, time for a new spring. I'm was pretty sure that's what it was initially, but I've been spending too much $$ on gear lately anyways. I don't think it was the CO2, The day I was playing, it was 60-65 degrees. I have an inline, ASA adjustable regulator I keep set at 700-750 psi. That day, I played with both my Pro/Carbine first (full half of my 20 oz tank), and my 98C later. My 98C actually shot hot that day with the same regulator, remote line and tank. My first few shots were 310ish, then I set it down and got a perfect 290-295. The Carbine wouldn't even hit 270. This Sat., I might try switching springs between my guns to see what happens. It just sucks waisting all that air each time I air-down. How long do you think it takes the spring to fatigue just sitting around? It may be time to replace one in my old M98 too. Thanks for the help offer Maddman, but I could swap spings in a Tippmann blind-folded. |
Posted By: Enos Shenk
Date Posted: 14 March 2008 at 5:20am
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Just shim the spring. Find something that fits in the end cap where the spring and guide pin go, it will increase the spring power.
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Posted By: modwerdna
Date Posted: 25 February 2009 at 6:37pm
| You need to check all the parts are ok before making changes. On very common place to check is your front derilin bolt. The hole that the linkage arm goes into should not penetrate through the bolt, i.e. it is a blind drilled pocket hole. Many times the hole will blow through from use and you will loose alot of pressue down the tube. Also check the o-ring on the bolt as well. If all is well you should easily be able to get 300 fps plus without any mods. I would replace the spring without any mods too, they are cheap. If you have problems with the gun recocking then look at the spring. If you mod the spring you effectively will change how long the valve stays open, and how much co2 use dramatically. Think of it this way, Tippmann didnot provide a spring adjuster, you shouldn't need it. Reseal and the gun and install a new spring before making mods. |
Posted By: Mack
Date Posted: 25 February 2009 at 7:30pm
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Duuuuuuuuude! The original poster brought up this problem almost a year ago. Do you really think he's setting at home in front of his computer still waiting for an answer? I can see it now: Motopsycho checks this page and happily exclaims "Yes, finally a solution. I can start leaving my room again and go play paintball. My life now has meaning!" -------------
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Posted By: SHiBBY927
Date Posted: 01 May 2012 at 3:12am
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Duuuuuuuuuude! Someone like me who just joined the forum and is looking for solutions to Pro/Carbine issues might appreciate his comment. Perhaps you should think before you start getting smart with the guy for trying to be helpful. It's not easy trying to find ways to fix problems with the Pro/Carbine.Though it's unlikely you'll be reading this post since yours was in 2009 I couldn't help but point out that you should consider the bigger picture. Anywho... I'll revive this thread in hopes of helping others who have issues with their P/C. Just had mine out at the field yesterday. Full tank of CO2 and it worked for all of 10 minutes of play. Started constantly burping and refusing to recock. Had to pull back the cocking handle after every shot. Embarrassing to say the very least. All o-rings were replaced last year, the gun has been oiled, and it has a brand new power tube, drive spring, and guide pin. I just ordered a new linkage arm in hopes that that fixes the problem. I've read that if the linkage arm is even just slightly bent that it can cause issues. At the very least if it isn't the problem it will help me narrow down the list. I'll post my results after I get the new linkage arm installed. While this is an old thread it can still be helpful to those of us who own and maintain P/Cs as they are getting older and the parts are becoming harder to find. ------------- Tippmann Pro/Carbine (JCS Combat Folding Stock, Lapco Bigshot .684 Barrel). Tippmann X7 Phenom (SIG Stock) |
Posted By: Enos Shenk
Date Posted: 03 May 2012 at 5:05pm
But you know what? They're still awesome. -------------
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Posted By: SHiBBY927
Date Posted: 08 May 2012 at 1:20am
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Gotta love the older Tippmanns! P/C has always been my favorite. It was the first marker I ever bought for myself. The A5 was the absolute newest thing at the time as far as Tippmanns go but I wanted the rugged simplicity of the Pro/Carbine. Got mine up and running. Turns out the velocity screw had shaken itself loose of the power tube. Hence the burping issues. Screwed it all the way back in. Replaced the linkage arm, and rear sight, and made the velocity adjustments from the RVA on my JCS stock and it's now shooting great. Glad that's all the issue was, didn't want to have to replace the valve or something. ------------- Tippmann Pro/Carbine (JCS Combat Folding Stock, Lapco Bigshot .684 Barrel). Tippmann X7 Phenom (SIG Stock) |
Posted By: rsgoldseos
Date Posted: 15 May 2012 at 3:44am
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Move along . . . nothing to see here. ------------- rsgoldseos cls |
Posted By: SHiBBY927
Date Posted: 19 May 2012 at 2:24am
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Well I figured out the issue. The velocity screw had worked it's way out of the power tube. Power Tube moved back slightly in the upper receiver and that resulted in air getting by where it shouldn't of been and hence the recocking issues. Screwed the FVA almost all the way back in and have made the proper adjustments with the RVA in my JCS Combat Stock to get her shooting at 285fps again. Hope this helps anyone else who has the same issue. I highly recommend finding an endcap with RVA or a stock with RVA so as to avoid issues with the FVA screw.
------------- Tippmann Pro/Carbine (JCS Combat Folding Stock, Lapco Bigshot .684 Barrel). Tippmann X7 Phenom (SIG Stock) |