*Sigh*

What made you get the 20" barrel?  Anything over ~14" is just for looks, uses more air to shoot, and becomes more difficult to manouver.

Also, I'm hoping the scope is there just for looks.

Finally, why the red spring?  Unless you can't get your velocity high enough, all it will really do is make your trigger pull harder and is useless since everyone is limited to 280-300 fps anyways.

There is so much wrong with that.

322 FPS it TOTALLY unsafe and unacceptable.  Paintball goggles are built to withstand blows rated at 300 FPS, anything past that and the lenses could shatter, obviously leading to eye damage and or blindness.  The accepted velocity at all public fields is no higher than 300 FPS, and it is for good reason.  Most fields don't even risk that, and are limited at 280 FPS.  Get a hand-held chronograph for you and your group, have everybody pay a small amount or whatever, but NEVER purposefully play shooting over 300 FPS.  I don't care if you're long range and can't shoot at whoever, its completely unsafe because freak events happen.  Someones finger may slip and shoot someone close to them, the ball still may be going to fast by the time it reaches your target. etc.  It is for your safety and that of those around you.  How would you feel if you shot one of your friends in the goggles, causing them to shatter, and he now has to live with blindness for the rest of his life, due to something that should not have been occurring in the first place and could easily have been prevented?

I'm well aware of what the drive springs do.  I guess it made since to you since you never knew not to play over 300 FPS, but under this restriction a heavier spring will have no point.  A lighter spring in controlled conditions would allow slightly more aquire efficency and a slightly lighter trigger pull, as your sear will drop easier with the decresed pressure on the hammer.

You wanna test the barrel length to distance theory?  Dial your 20" barrel into a certain FPS, and observe the distance.  Now, without changing any other settings, put on a similar bored 12" - 14" barrel.  I promise you the shorter barrel will travel further, its simple physics.  The extra 8" - 6" of the 20" barrel will cause significant drag, slowing your paintball and shortening its range.  Now, all this doesn't really matter when you're playing with restricted FPS anyways, because everyone should be shooting around the same velocity.  Its this velocity that translates to speed (unless, of course, you're using an Apex or Flatline barrel, but thats due to backspin), and as such no one's marker should be shooting any further than another.

Also, to debunk the length to accuracy theory.  This is true, to a certain extent.  However, past around 8" the ball is completely stabilized, meaning that the excess length of a 20" barrel is useless and will hinder performance for the reasons stated above and in my first post.  The biggest factor in barrel accuracy is simply barrel to paint bore match.

Everyone knows a longer barrel is more accurate and shoot further, huh?  I do believe that everyone instead knows that is FALSE.

Also, rifiling doesn't make any difference on a paintball.  Rifiling will have no effect on the flight path of a circular object that is filled with fluid.  I can get into specifics, but honestly someone else could probably better explain it than me.  There is lots of controversy over this, but its safe to conclude that any effect of rifiling on a paintball is negligible.

The scope is pretty useless because a paintball will actually hit that specific dot on your scope maybe once out of every 15, 25, maybe even 50 times.  Yes, it'll help you spot and get a general area, and if you like using it, thats fine.  However, it leaves you very prone to tunnel vision, so you must be mindful of its downfalls in paintball.

yael_alpha_black wrote: we dont play over 280fps, the max  FPS of my Alpha are 332fps but is unaceptable to play as that,so IM NOT STUPID ok K Hop ? is obious that plays over 290 you have a risk,accidents always happends, by the barrel stuff, mmm i trow with the 20" and the ball travels better than the 10" 14" or 16",im planing to buy an apex barrel because dont really find a flatline barrel that fits my alpha,an also i want other gun,but im not sure to buy an A5 or a X7, what you recomend me ?? mm cause the A5 you can customize it a lot !! :D

Set up a really good test and be open to the results.  Get a gun bench or something similar to hold it in place, and do the barrel length test and check the distances.  However, this will only really work if both barrels have identical bores.  I mean, my point obviously is that you'll probably be doing yourself a favor by using a shorter barrel.  Grab yourself a 12" / 14" Apex, and you'll be well off anyways.  290 FPS out of any barrel (except the Flatline and Apex) will result in identical distance.  I mean, if you like the 20" then keep it, I'm just saying you may be happier with a shorter one.

Also, try setting up your gun at 290 FPS with a softer drive spring.  You should find that the trigger pull will be slightly easier and it should be more efficient.

Be mindful of the scope as well.  You might be better off if you play without it, so you can learn how to aim down your barrel better.  Most players learn to aim extremely well in time with this, and it would be easier to manage than playing with the scope.  It'd keep your vision open.  But again, I'm not here to rain on your parade.  If you like it, then keep it.

As far as A-5 vs. 98, you'll find plenty of these topics around here if you search.  The A-5 is obviously the way to go for milsim, but I'm a fan of the less bulky 98 platform.  I'm not a super huge fan of the Cyclone, so that was another factor for me.  I've owned both markers, and a 98 is the only one I still have today with my other markers.

I usually only use straight semi-auto, so I'd choose the e-grip for the lighter trigger pull.  That, and the RT isn't allowed at most fields, just like how full-auto isn't allowed at most.

Don't forget that the RT can be run without batteries and is ready to go in any weather.

oldpbnoob wrote: Yomillio wrote: I usually only use straight semi-auto, so I'd choose the e-grip for the lighter trigger pull.  That, and the RT isn't allowed at most fields, just like how full-auto isn't allowed at most. Don't forget that the RT can be run without batteries and is ready to go in any weather. I have yet to play at a field where the RT is not allowed.   And there is an Egrip for the AB, but an RT is not available yet as far as I know.   Yomillo is correct regarding distance and barrel length.

You're quite lucky.  Every field I play at it seems doesn't allow it.