tech t no kick hammer problems
Printed From: Tippmann Paintball
Category: Paintball Equipment
Forum Name: Gun Maintenace and Repair
Forum Description: Important info for keeping your marker in top shape
URL: http://www.tippmannsports.com/forum/wwf77a/forum_posts.asp?TID=187959
Printed Date: 26 June 2025 at 9:01pm
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Topic: tech t no kick hammer problems
Posted By: tippmannal
Subject: tech t no kick hammer problems
Date Posted: 22 March 2011 at 12:55am
| I have put a no kick hammer in both my a5s and now they shoot about 10-20 times then you have to recock gun any ideas on why both do the same thing |
Replies:
Posted By: Ceesman762
Date Posted: 22 March 2011 at 9:49am
After market, 3rd party Internal upgrades= put the old ones back in your marker.
------------- Innocence proves nothing FUAC!!!!! |
Posted By: rkenders
Date Posted: 29 August 2011 at 7:19pm
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I have the techt bolt too and have the "no recock" issue, but only after THOUSANDS of shots with it installed before the problem started. I put my stock bolt back in and have the SAME PROBLEM!!! Obviously the techt bolt is not the problem. I can fire random amounts of paint and then suddenly it's not cocked. I have to manually recock and then shoot. Sometimes it happens after a couple of shots or I can empty multiple hoppers and not have the problem or anything in between. Like I said "random amounts of paint". I noticed that if it doesn't recock that sometimes I may have a ball halfway in the breach. I then have to clean the broken ball mess out of the gun. I have shot my A5 exclusively for 8 years and never chopped a ball in all that time until the recock issue appeared a few weeks ago. Good paint, cheap paint, regulator, no regulator, 400fps, various tippmann and after market bolts, none of it ever caused a ball chop. According to tippmann this is a cyclone issue. It happens on a full co2 bottle or a nearly empty one or anything in between. I typically replace my CO2 bottle when my ASA pressure gauge reads around 700 psi. The gun still shoots fine for a while as long as I shoot slowly below that, but there's not much more than half a hopper or so of pressure left by then and manual feeding the cyclone is an issue. I know my A5 extremely well and can tell what's happening by feel and sound. To me the chopped ball is not the cyclone, but rather a timing issue. Because the bolt does NOT catch the sear, there is not enough time for the cyclone to properly feed the next ball completely into the breach causing a ball chop. Perhaps the sear isn't rising fast enough? Would a stronger sear spring make a difference? New trigger assembly? I did replace my power tube with an aluminum one when the stock tube cracked from age. The valve body was replaced too due to failure from cracking at the tomb stone fitting. My A5 has had several hundred boxes of paint shot through it. I replaced the rear bolt with the techt bolt in hopes of getting better efficiency, better ROF and less kick. The techt bolt has lived up to its advertising as does most everything else they make. I have a response trigger and average 12-15bps with the techt and can go higher (20+bps), but keep my response trigger set to around 12-15bps. With the stock rear bolt 12-15bps was the best I could ever get. I have a regulator on the gun to keep the internal gas pressures more consistent. The regulator is set to 600psi and has been on the gun at 600psi for around 5 years. Every time I go paint balling after the day is over I take apart my A5, clean EVERYTHING, relube the bolt, cyclone, regulator, etc with gold cup oil. I have been doing this level of maintenance since I bought the gun new 8 years ago. The guns internals are polished which made a big difference in efficiency and consistency. I have a drop forward and ASA on the gun. The ASA has never over pushed the valve stem on any CO2 bottle I own of which I have 10 20oz bottles bought at various times. The original ASA I bought for the drop forward did over push the valve stems and would restrict gas flow. I got a different ASA and have not had that issue in at least 6 years. I have a 1500psi guage on my ASA so I can quickly see what's left in my bottle. I have another 1500psi gauge on my regulator so I can see the guns actual operating pressure. I get shot to shot no more than 20fps variance and typically shoot at 270fps. I could set my regulator a little higher to get closer to 300fps, but 270 is close enough. I have no need to adjust the velocity screw as the regulator does a far better job. I have removed all of the upgrades and modifications I have made excepting the replacement power tube and polished interior and the gun will still randomly NOT recock. The replacement power tube was installed over a year ago. I have taken apart the trigger assembly and totally cleaned everything and reassembled. I did NOT put the wrong spring under the sear. |