Tippman 98 E-Bolt with LPK issue
Printed From: Tippmann Paintball
Category: Paintball Equipment
Forum Name: Gun Maintenace and Repair
Forum Description: Important info for keeping your marker in top shape
URL: http://www.tippmannsports.com/forum/wwf77a/forum_posts.asp?TID=190901
Printed Date: 23 December 2024 at 6:28am
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Topic: Tippman 98 E-Bolt with LPK issue
Posted By: Irobertus
Subject: Tippman 98 E-Bolt with LPK issue
Date Posted: 14 January 2013 at 2:37am
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I recently came across an old Tippman 98 Custom with an E-Bolt and LPK and decided I was going to make it the 98 I always dreamed of. When I first bought the gun it shot fine so I decided to upgrade it with everything I could buy. After replacing the shell, rebuilding the valve, installing a male Palmers and installing a cyclone feed system I started running in to an issue with bolt chops. I have tried removing the cyclone, 2 different bolt/power tube combos and even putting all the parts back in the old shell but the gun keeps chopping paint at the bolt at any rate of fire. The breaks are definitely at bolt and not in the cyclone itself as it would break paint even on the second or third shot using the cyclone or a halo (side feed) hopper. I am assuming that I need to adjust the dwell or possibly the psi on the reg but nothing I do seems to help. Gun is currently running around 290 psi on the Palmers and when it shoots (without breaks) it's great. My only thought is when I rebuilt the dirty valve I threw off the pressure and possibly the bolt is not returning all the way before it tries to shoot again. I know there are some experts still around and was hoping that someone might be able to give me some advice on dwell setting with the LPK installed. Or if it's even a dwell issue at all. Just to clarify it is a stock Tippmann Ebolt, Tippmann LPK and the chops do not seem to be related to ROF as it will break at the bolt even while shooting slowly. Also I am using a pure energy HPA steel tank. Any advice is much appreciated as I have a practically brand new looking 98 custom that turns into a paint sprayer anytime I use it now! I spent way too much money on this gun and if I can't figure it out I'm just going to have to throw the bolt on eBay and I would hate to give up on it. Thanks in advance for any help.
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Replies:
Posted By: tallen702
Date Posted: 14 January 2013 at 8:50am
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Dwell is how long the ram stays forward and keeps the valve open. since it deals in fractions of a second, there's not a lot it'll do to affect chopping. I think your culprit is sitting there in the form of a notoriously paint-picky barrel. The only other thing I'd look at is your ball detent and to make sure that A) it's in properly (not backwards) and B) that there are no chamber burrs or anything of the sort that may be causing the paint to break. Remember, the existence of paint in the breech isn't necessarily a sign on it being a chopping issue. The bolt extends forward into the barrel and can drag paint that has broken in the barrel back into the breech. Signs of chopping include significant shell fragments inside the breech and in and around the powertube and bolt. I'd swap the flatline out for a regular barrel and see what happens first. ------------- <Removed overly wide sig. Tsk, you know better.> |
Posted By: Irobertus
Date Posted: 14 January 2013 at 11:03am
I have also tried multiple standard size barrels (J&J Ceramic, Lapco Bigshot and CP One Piece) which didnt change anything
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tallen702 wrote:Posted By: tallen702
Date Posted: 14 January 2013 at 11:41am
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If you're firing semi-auto only, does it still chop? I'm talking like 1 shot per second. ------------- <Removed overly wide sig. Tsk, you know better.> |
Posted By: Irobertus
Date Posted: 14 January 2013 at 1:41pm
Yes.
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Posted By: tallen702
Date Posted: 14 January 2013 at 8:03pm
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There's got to be an issue with the breech then. If you're going that slow and it's chopping, there's got to be some sort of obstruction. Or it could be really, really bad paint. ------------- <Removed overly wide sig. Tsk, you know better.> |
Posted By: Mack
Date Posted: 14 January 2013 at 9:01pm
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People who are unfamiliar with the 98 series Flatline have a tendency to either not screw the adapter in far enough* or to not properly seat the barrel itself in the adapter. I recommend checking that the barrel is seated all the way in the adapter and making sure it isn't working loose. You will break paint right at the beginning of the F/L barrel if it isn't seated properly. *This is especially a problem when you mix new and old threads. However, given the shroud on the F/L it should have the new threads which will work with the old bodies. (It's the other way around that can be a problem.) ------------- 
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