x7 phenom flatline baeeel
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Topic: x7 phenom flatline baeeel
Posted By: jimmy71
Subject: x7 phenom flatline baeeel
Date Posted: 12 December 2015 at 9:17am
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I have x7 phenom with flatline barrel I get 2 out of 5 ball breaks and ball Does not shoot straight I am using valken infinity paint I have sent the barrel back to tippmann they replace the barrel adapter and still get ball breaks Velocity is that 260/270 The temperature here in Albany ny 40s and 50s Pathfinder barrel that came with gun It's okay |
Replies:
Posted By: tallen702
Date Posted: 12 December 2015 at 10:55am
Flatlines are notoriously harder on paint. It's the backspin being induced on the shot to allow it to "float" out there for longer range shots. The issue you're having is less the barrel and more the paint and weather. When I lived in the Poughkeepsie/Hyde Park area, we ALWAYS used polar ice for winter play up in the Mid Hudson Valley. The Valken Infinity is probably doing alright the the weather with a straight barrel because it's encountering less resistance and thus, has fewer chances to break. However, when you use that same thin-shelled paint in a flatline which is inducing backspin on the ball through physical interference, it causes that thin shell to come apart in the colder weather. Marballizer is the paint of choice for flatlines in regular weather (down to around 50*F) Polar Ice or another thicker shelled winter paint is what you need for anything below 50*F with the flatline. I hope that helps! ------------- <Removed overly wide sig. Tsk, you know better.> |
jimmy71 wrote:Posted By: johnfalto
Date Posted: 13 December 2015 at 8:39am
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The Flatline was meant to give the paint a back spin so that it would have a some what flatter trajectory and fly farther without having to long ball. Great in woodsball where you may have a lot of trees where long balling is not possible. However with the longer range you lose three things. First is accuracy, no matter what you do, you will always have paint that will veer either right or left, so you will have to lay down more paint to make sure you get your target. Secondly is that the back spin decreases the paint speed as the distance increases. Not fun to be able to tag a distant target but not have a ball break. The third thing is that you have to really manage your paint and marker. 1) The inside of the barrel is rough on purpose but paint residue will affect your paintballs and cause more breaks. Run hot water through the tube after every game and dry completely. Run a flexible swab through it to pull whatever residue you can. 2) If you, get the best mid-grade paint you can get. Avoid paint that has a seam that you can feel and dimples. The harder the shell the better. Stay away from tourney paint. 3) Looks like your speed is good. Make sure it doesn't go over 280. 4) Take the shroud off the barrel and look at the adapter. There is a V notched into it. There is a line notched in the barrel. Make sure the line is lined up with the point of the V. 5) If you have a barrel break on the field. Stop playing immediately. Turn the marker upside down so that whatever paint was in the cyclone will go back into the hopper. You will still have a round or two primed. Take 2 or 3 shots so that just the air comes out to clean away most of the debris then with the safety on (air off if you run a remote with a slide check), run a swab through it then back to the game. You will always have a barrel break because it is the nature of the beast and you will never have one ball hitting the same spot after another. You may opt then for an Apex2 barrel tip as you can control the back spin and it is a little easier on paint. Good luck and have a great game. ------------- tagging with extreme prejudice |