In order to consolidate Sticky Posts, we are going to do here, what we have started up in "New Players".

Thanks, Folks!

UPGRADING YOUR MARKER:  COMPLETE FAQ.

I am writing this to help the people so they won’t have to post as many questions, although there is nothing wrong with that. It will help keep the forum fast though. This FAQ will cover effective barrel length, the best ways to store paint, what upgrades you may want to consider, types of air lines, etc.

1-      BARREL LENGTH- For the most part, the length of your barrel does not affect accuracy. A paintball needs about 7.5-8 inches of barrel to stabilize, and to be truthful, after that, you are using more of your air source (co2, n2, or HPA). So, the longer the barrel, the A- more air you use and B- the more you have to turn up your velocity. This should help to eliminate questions asking “How long should I order my barrel?” Although, once again, I will say there is nothing wrong with asking questions, after you search. I will list some decent barrels for decent prices. (Note-I know I am not naming all of the barrels.)

J+J Ceramic

Stiff!

All American

Tear Drop

Progressive

Abrades

Quit Riot

Nite Stik

Stealth

Big Shot

Boom Stick

Freak Kit

Freak Junior

Evil Pipe

Flat line - A-5

Flat line - 98 Custom

BARRELS YOU WILL WANT TO STAY AWAY FROM

GTA Sniper Barrel

Thunder Pig Barrels

2-      CARING FOR YOUR PAINT-

A-Open package and rotate the bags. The paintballs are extremely close packed in the box. This may lead to a ball break. That is bad…

B-Keep them in a relatively warm place, with low humidity.

C-Keep rotating the bags

D-DO NOT FREEZE YOUR PAINT (doing so will ruin your barrel and is dangerous to others)

E-Follow all other instructions on your box of paint.

3- Types of Air Hoses- Steel braided lines, Macro lines, and Micro lines.

               STEEL BRAIDED LINES- These are what you stock model 98, model 98 custom, A-5, Pro-Carbine and most other guns that aren’t upgraded come with. Not all guns come with steel braided. Some higher end guns come stock with macro line, described later. These hoses are made of steel, and look like a girls braided hair, hence the name. These are more durable, but come in sizes, and you cannot adjust the size. So if you buy a drop forward, regulator, or expansion chamber, you may need a new hose. These are pretty flexible, but cannot be bent too much, or at too much of an angle. These also only come in one color, silver.

              MACRO LINE HOSES- These are what some higher end guns come with. These are small, thick, heavy duty plastic air hoses that can be flexed quite easily. You can buy a kit with 3 feet of hose (3 colors) and 2 fittings (one 90* elbow, one straight fitting, or two 90* fittings.) for 10 dollars at http://www.countypaintball.com/ - www.countypaintball.com . I have found that they have the best deals for macro line. These types of line come in three colors (usually red, black, and blue) and are made by several companies. They can be cut to any length needed, and each color hose comes in one foot sections. Some people dislike them, saying that they are not strong. This is both true and false. Macro line is not as strong as Steel Braided hoses, but is more flexible and can be cut to any size. Macro line is still pretty durable though, so do not think it is “weak”.

           MICRO LINE HOSES- These hoses are pretty rare to find these days. If you do find some, I suggest against buying it. They are just like Macro Line, but they are a lot smaller in diameter, thus restricting airflow. If you are still interested in this, you may want to look for some on http://www.ebay.com/ - www.ebay.com . I have not found them anywhere else.

4-      POTENTIAL UPGRADES-

R/T-Response Trigger- This is illegal at some tournaments but not all. This uses excess air from your marker to blow the trigger back into the ready position. This is still semi-auto, but many people think it is fully auto. It isn’t.

Drop Forward- These are used to disperse the weight out better on your gun. It brings you ASA (Air Source Adapter-Where you screw in your air tank) forward and down. These are also used a lot in speedball so you can tuck in closer to the bunkers.

Regulator (for HPA and N2—some work with co2)-These can set down the air going into the gun to make your gun more gas efficient.

Expansion Chamber- This is only for co2. It gives the co2 more time to expand into a gas-helps keep liquid co2 out of the gun.

Electric Hopper- A electric hopper spins a paddle for whenever you shoot to prevent chopping balls and having clog ups in your standard hopper. Good investment if you have the R/T.

Double Trigger- Some people prefer these over a single trigger. Its pretty self explanatory. Two slots for your fingers instead of one.

New Grips- Some people find the stock grips to be irritating. Most aftermarket grips are softer and are more comfortable.

New Barrel- The stock barrel on gun is most likely not very accurate, and not very good all around. See the section on barrels above.

Stocks/Remote lines – Woods ball players like these over speed ball players. The stock lets you rest the gun on your shoulder, and the remote line is a coiled hose that attaches to your ASA and co2 tank, letting you wear your co2 tank in a pocket. Remotes can work like expansion chambers too.

Scope- Scopes aren’t very good in paintball. Paintballs aren’t very accurate anyway. Scopes also give you tunnel vision, which will probably result in you getting flanked

Red Dot Site- These are better then scopes because they won’t give you tunnel vision and is easier to use then a scope. They have a red dot inside the site and you jut line that up with the target and the aimer on the site.

RVA (Rear Velocity adjuster) - If you buy this, it will allow you to increase or decrease your velocity with out having to use allen wrenches. It allows you to adjust velocity with your fingers. (NOTE-THIS WILL NOT WORK WITH A REAR COCKING SYSTEM)

Rear Cocking System – This allows you to cock your gun from the end. Some people prefer these over side cocking markers. Usually, a metal plate and screws will be provided to cover the hole where the side cocking knob used to be. (NOTE- WILL NOT WORK WITH ROCKET COCK OR RVA)

Rocket Cock- This is used to cover up the side cocking system, and has a ring on a pin that attaches to the side cocking knob. So it covers the side cocking hole but you still cock from the side. This is for looks, but some say it quiets the gun quit a bit. I do not know, I don’t have one. It also helps keep debris and paint/paint shells out of your marker.

HPA (High Pressure Air) or N2 (Nitrogen) - These are interchangeable as far as paintball is concerned. You can fill most tanks with either or. HPA/n2 is more consistent then C02, so you will get better shots and you won’t get velocity spikes. You also won’t have to worry about having liquid C02 in the gun. These come in three common types- Fiber Wrapped, Aluminum, and Steel. Those are in order of the lightest to the heaviest. You will want to buy a tank cover for most Fiber wrapped tanks because they scratch easily. How many shots will you get? You multiply the CI (Cubic Inches) by these numbers…

10xCI= Number of shots for a 3000 PSI tank

15xCI= Number of shots for a 4500 PSI tank

20xCI= Number of shots for a 5000 PSI tank

Foe more information on HPa/n2 systems, please check the MILKMANS sticky.

There are many more upgrades, but that is all that I can think of right now…and I’m tired… I know I didn’t list all the barrels either, but I will add on to both at a later time.

Accuracy

Accuracy depends on several things, and length of the barrel doesn’t effect accuracy. Here are some things that effect accuracy

·        Good, fresh, non deformed paint

·        Paintballs without paint spill on them

·        Clean paintballs

·        Velocity not too high-280 FPS is good

·        Clean barrel

·        No spurs in barrel

·        Good Paint To Barrel Bore match

Paintball sizes- http://www.ottersccustoms.com/paintc.html - http://www.ottersccustoms.com/paintc.html

Barrel Sizes- http://www.ottersccustoms.com/paintc.html - http://www.ottersccustoms.com/barrelc.html

Remember, have fun and be safe!

United States Marine Corps

Semper Fi!

What am I doing here? I don't even play paintball anymore!

Hello,

I see more and more threads about this EVERYDAY! So, I decided to make a post about it so they can be kept to a minimum. I stickied this so it will always be here. But, if any mod has a problem with this being stickied, I will happily move it.

This post is about choosing the right kind/brand of paintball for using in a Flatline Barrel System.

The Flatline:

The Flatline Barrel system is a very popular barrel upgrade on 98's and A-5's. But, scince this barrel has a curve or arch in it, it will performe better with Medium-Small bore paint.

Which Paint:

For a Flatline, you will need to use a good quality ball. And, they should be a Medium-Small bore paint. Some good brads of paint are the following:

Marbilizers: They used to be the best. But, they must have cleaned the machines, misscalculated the ingrediants, or changed the temperature in the building. Because now new Marbilizers are not performing very good. They are comming with flat spots and the paint is not as think and heavy as it used to be. So if you are buying marbs, be carefull.

Evil: Right now I beleive Evil's are the best brand of paint for the Flatline. They work AWSOME in the Flatline. Plus, they have a VERY think paint and bright shell.

Draxxus(Diablo) Blaze: Some people are having good luck wioth Blaze paintball. I use them and they work GREAT. They have a very thivk and tuff shell and the paint is pretty decent. It's not as think as Evil, but it still shows up good. Blaze, as well as other Draxxus paint, is a very small bore paint.

32* Team Colors: I myself have not used it with the Flatlien Barrel System. I have used it on "Regular" Barrels, and they were NOT very good at all. But, I hear when they are used in the Flatline , they rock! I will try thses next time I wip ou the Ol' A-5, then I will give you a report.

Those are some of the more popular brands of paint for both the A-5 and 98 Flatline Barrel System.

If anyone has anything to add, feel free to do so!

tgaffner

WARP FEED MODS: 12 VOLT, LED LIGHT, AND ON/OFF SWITCH.


Here is how you can do some mods to your warp feed. The following shows how you can do a 12 volt, led light, and on/off switch mod.

It is very simple and easy to do if you know what you are doing and have all the materials needed.

Materials needed:

Radio Shack has EVERYTHING you will need! It will cost around 7-8 buck for all of this.

1. 2 9 volt battery connectors.

2. Wires.

3. 1 12 volt LED light. Any color you want.

4. 1 power switch. Toggle. Needs to be able to handle 19 volts.

5. Solder gun.

6. Solder.

7. Electrical tape or heat shrink wrapping.

8. A clean work place and about 2 hours.

9. A GOOD BRIGHT light.

And most important!

10. 1 19-to-12 volt regulator. It needs to take 19 volts and step it down to 12 volts.

Here is a simple diagram on how to set it up and how to wire it:




Make sure to cut the wires as SHORT as possible. There is not a whole lot of room in there.

It will only take a few hours to do this. You don't HAVE to put in a LED light or an on/off switch. But, it just makes it nicer.

After this mod you will notice that your warp will spin A LOT faster and it will be A LOT more sensitive!!

Here is another picture of how the Warp Feed could look.



You don't have to mount them side by side. You can stack them or do whatever you want. But, this way makes more room.

WARP INTELLIFEED TO E-BOLT

Here is a link that shows you how to connect a Warp Feed to your 98's E-Bolt, utilizing the Warp's IntelliFeed Input!

http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=49491 - http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=49491  

Removine and Re-Locating the E-Bolt Battery:

Here is a very easy diagram on how to do this mod.

All you need is:

1. Solder Gun.

2. Solder.

3. Extra Wire.

4. 30 Minutes.

5. Depends on how and were you mount it.

6. Maybe an LED Light.

Here is a diagram on how to do it:

Removing E-Bolt ASA.

This is how you can get rid of that big E-Bolt ASA/ Regulator.

Things you will need:

1. Cocker Regulator. Most any cocker regulator will work. The most popular one is the Palmer Micro Rock.

3. Cockier 3-Way Tubing/ Hose.

4. Thread Sealer.

5. A 2 Holed ASA

Here is a diagram on how you should do it:

So you wanna paint your marker....

 

Materials:
1.Steel Wool (optional)
2. Primer
3. Spray Paint
4. Clear Coat
5. Dermal (optional)
6. Tape (optional)

 

1. Field Strip your marker, take everything out so you
just have your receiver halves.

 

2. Use either a dermal or steel wool to strip off all the
paint off your marker (yes the stock tippmann black
or silver paint) be sure to get UNDER the marker and
the BACK of the marker (these are spots I almost
missed)

 

3. Wipe down your marker with a Wet Cloth to make
sure you get all the debris off of it, and to see if you
missed any spot where some paint might still be.

 

4. Tape off your internals so no paint will get on the
inside, cover all the holes and everything (this step is
optional)

 

5. Spray about 3-4 LIGHT coats of primer. Let dry. Go
back and see if you missed a spot and to be sure
both receivers are completely covered with the
primer.

 

6. Spray the spray paint on the marker, about 3-4
coats and let dry. Just like doing the primer but
colored. Make sure you got every where on the
marker. Make sure the coats are Light and smooth
on both receiver halves… let dry

 

7. Now, Spray both receivers halves with some clear
coat, make sure you cover the entire marker. Make
the coats light and quick. This should make your
marker look a little “shiny” and “smooth”… let dry

 

8. If your internals were taped off then they should
look fine on the inside. If they don’t or you didn’t tape
them off then get out your steel wool (EXTRA fine
steel wool) or dermal and polish up your internals or
just polish it up so the paint, primer or clear coat is
gone.

 

9. Put your newly painted marker together

 

10. Show off

 Pictures:



Another way to paint your maker is to use
Auto-motive paint. Get some sand paper and sand
down the paint on your tippmann (the stock
tippmann paint) just a little bit. Spray 3-4 coats of
primer on, then the paint and then the clear coat. The
process is the same just you didn’t sand off all the
stock tippmann paint. The paint will be much
“thicker” and it may be a little harder to install your
screws because of the thicker paint. Etc. Also it
tends to be “Mushy” and not as durable as the other
paintjob but it still turns out great!

 

Of coarse the paint is going to chip and scratch etc.
But just get some nail polish to touch up scratches,
cheap, your wife/girlfriend has plenty of them and
comes in a variety of colors.

 

Good Luck,

Ultimate Trooper

 

Disclaimer:
I am NOT responsible for you screwing up your
marker. These are steps and the exact way I painted
my marker. You are at fault for your own actions. PM
me for more detailed instructions..

 

Hopefully I will have pictures with a more
detailed step-by-step instructions too.

Hey though this could help some body....

Both of these are from the A-5 ownes group and made by keeper X I take NO credit for this.

The Tippmann E-Grip FAQ

Greetings. This FAQ should help to answer your questions about the GTA E-Grip Trigger Frame. If you ahve any other questions, feel free to ask. This FAQ will be updated with any new or updated information

What is the E-Grip?

The GTA E-Grip is a new Grip Electronic Frame that trips the sear electonically with each pull of the trigger using a solenoid. You install the new grip frame in the place of the stock grip frame. The E-grip comes complete with trigger assembly, trigger frame and the electonic components.

Does it increase Rate of fire?

Yes, it absolutely does! Since the trigger activates the sear electornically, the marker can fire much quicker than the stock trigger, but slightly slower than the RT. Most people report results of 15bps.

Can I adjust the Rate of fire,?

Yes. There are Two holes in the E-grip Frame that allow you to change both the rate of fire and the mode of fire with a small screwdriver.

What modes of fire are available?

The E-Grip has five firing modes.

1. Semi Automatic - One shot for each pull of the Trigger
2. Turbo - Semi-Auto until the trigger is pulled faster than 4bps then it switches to auto-responce, doubling your rate of fire.
3. Auto Response - One shot on the pull and one on the release of the trigger. Basically two round burst.
4. Three Round Burst - Three shot each time you pull the trigger
5. Full Automatic - Hold the Trigger, launch 15bps in a constant string.

It's electronic right? Runs on Batteries, eh? Which ones?

The E-Grip uses standard 9 volt batterys and gets roughly 3000 rounds per battery from reports we've gathered.

Is the E-Grip easy to install and uninstall?

Yes. You just pull the two lower reciever pins, and the tombstone pin, remove the stock grip frame, remove the bottomline ASA from the stock receiver and install it on the E-Grip, and install the E-grip on the marker just as you uninstalled the Stock Grip. It takes less than two minutes.

Does the E-Grip use MORE gas?

In theory you should get the same number of shots per tank that you get from a stock A-5 or a m98c.

But that's not necessarily the case.

With the increased Rate of Fire Co2 will act differently than it would for the stock A-5 or M98C. As you shoot faster, the tank becomes colder and that leads to the Co2 taking more time to evaporate from liquid to gas. This means that more liquid will be drawn from the tank as usual. This in turn means not only will you use more of the co2, but it can also chill the gas lines and the valve, creating even more of a problem. This can also cause the output pressure of the tank to start dropping rapidly, meaning that the cyclone and RT will start to "slow down." A good Expansion Chamber, Regulator and remote system will help with this, but Nitro is the best solution.

Sounds Great. Is the E-Grip Tourney Legal?

Absolutely. That's why it was created. It takes the A-5 into High-End territory and can definately compete with the Big boys out there. Just as Tippmann Effect, Tippmann's Factory Tourney Team. Though it can only be used in Semi-Auto mode.

Are there any problems with the E-Grip?

A few. The Battery tends to be difficult to install/uninstall even though it was designed to be easy. The Wires tend to get in the way and hold the battery in the grip.

The Trigger switch is very sensitive and unless you make sure to turn the E-grip to a "Dead" setting, the sear tripping pin can shoot out of the Grip.

Also, the cyclone can get rather rough on paint when cycling at 15bps for loing periods of time. There are updates available for the cyclone that fixes that problem and they are free. Just call Tippmann for details.

Some fields still ban everything except Semi-Automatic, sue the other modes after talking to your field operators.

Okay, I want one. Where can I get one and how much is it

Tippmann sells the E-Grip for about $150 + shipping, but it can be picked up as low as $119 on the internet.

Can I see your E-Grip in Action?

Why yes, you can. Follow this link to see it in action:
http://www.kryptyk-d-zynz.com/a5_egrip_teaser_video.htm - http://www.kryptyk-d-zynz.com/a5_egrip_teaser_video.htm

Greetings. This FAQ should help to answer your questions about the GTA RT Trigger Kit. If you ahve any other questions, feel free to ask. This FAQ will be updated with any new or updated information

What is the RT Trigger Kit?

The GTA Response Trigger Kit is a fully mechanical, Pnuematic Trigger Assist system. It uses wasted blow back gas to power a piston installed behind the trigger which returns the trigger to the ready position, ready to fire the next shot much quicker than the normal spring return and with much greater force.

Does it increase Rate of fire?

Yes, it absolutely does! Since the trigger resets much quicker and with much greater force, you can pull it quicker. Most people report results of between 14 and 17bps.

Can I adjust the Rate of fire, like with electronic Markers?

In a manner yes. You can adjust the flow of gas to the RT Piston, increasing or decreasing the pressure in the piston. The greater the pressure, the greater the force required to pull the trigger, and thus a slower the rate of fire. The lesser the pressure, the lesser the force required to pull the trigger, and thus a higher rate of fire.

Will the RT make my A-5 Fully Automatic?

In a way yes, and in a way no. Fully automatic markers work by cycling the bolt automatically while you are holding the trigger down. The RT can MIMIC this easily, but the trigger still moves with each shot, so you TECHNICALLY are pulling the trigger with each ball fired. This is called "sweet spotting."

How do you find the "Sweet Spot?"

It's different with the individual settings of each marker and each player. Usually the sweet spot can be found by pulling the trigger about half way back instead of all the way back and by applying constant pressure to the trigger. If set up correctly, the Trigger will bounce against your finger, and fire off a string of shots at high speed.

Is the RT easy to install and uninstall?

Yes, much easier to install than the 98 Custom Version of the RT, and it requires less modification. The instructions are a bit complicated, but anyone with a decent working knowledge of the A-5 will be able to install it in about 15 minutes, and even less to disable it. To Disable the RT, you simply need to pull the hose that leads to the RT piston, and replace the Banjo "T" fitting with the stock banjo fitting.

Does the RT use MORE gas?

Yes and no. The RT works on wasted blow back gasses. So in theory you should get the same number of shots per tank that you get from a stock A-5 or a m98c.

But that's not necessarily the case.

With the increased Rate of Fire Co2 will act differently than it would for the stock A-5 or M98C. As you shoot faster, the tank becomes colder and that leads to the Co2 taking more time to evaporate from liquid to gas. This means that more liquid will be drawn from the tank as usual. This in turn means not only will you use more of the co2, but it can also chill the gas lines and the valve, creating even more of a problem. This can also cause the output pressure of the tank to start dropping rapidly, meaning that the cyclone and RT will start to "slow down." A good Expansion Chamber, Regulator and remote system will help with this, but Nitro is the best solution.

Sounds Great. Is the RT Tourney Legal?

Again, yes and no. Even though it is still a semi-automatic marker, and you're still pulling the trigger for each paintball fired, the fact that you can mimic full auto easily has caused MOST big leagues to ban the RT. Some local tourneys will allow it though, so always check with the Ultimate Judge of the tourney before signing up with and RT.

Are there any problems with the RT?

A few. Some of the earlier RT kits had loose o-rings resulting in leaks. And some of the RTs shipped with bad pistons. These problems were corrected by Tippmann and if you have one of these kits you can contact Tippmann to get yours replaced.

Newer RT kits also come with new trigger plates that can stand up to the pressure of the RT kit a little better.

That and some field still ban fully automatic paintball markers, and the RT because of the trigger bounce.

Okay, I want one. Where can I get one and how much is it

Tippmann is shipping A-5s with RT installed in then and they are selling around the internet for Between $269 and $290. You can also buy the kit and install it yourself for about $75 to $99.

Paintball Grenades

Paintball grenades are used most often in scenario games, and are also used often in recreational woods ball games. Although, not all fields allow the use of paint grenades, so before you go to the field with a box of grenades to play, check with the field owner to see if you can use them. They can be extremely useful when there is a large bunker with several people in it, that your paintballs cannot penetrate. Although, many people use grenades in situations like this, but do not do something correct, causing your 5 dollar grenade not to explode. Several things can be blamed for this.

1. You did not shake well before using. That is the number one problem. Not shaking the grenade usually results in it not exploding, but sometimes it may explode without shaking if you throw it very high.

2. Did not throw correctly. Many people throw their paintball grenades similar to a baseball just with a little arch. You need to lob it with a lot of arch.

3. You forgot t take a part off the grenade. I’ve seen people forget to take the pin out. Some people take the mesh off of the tube. Those people usually get better results.

Types Of Grenades

• Tippmann Squad busters. Too bad they aren’t as reliable as other Tippmann products.

• Bouncing Betty’s. Usually work without a hitch.

• Meteor Shower Grenades. What I think are the best on the market. Sometimes they are too sensitive and can go off in your pocket while crawling. With these, you can set them up as a trip mine, or you can throw like a normal grenade.

• Banana Grenades. I have never used any of these, but on my local field, I have seen them used and they are quite reliable.

United States Marine Corps

Semper Fi!

What am I doing here? I don't even play paintball anymore!

Fine, I’ll admit it from the start. This is just another flatline post. And you are probably just another forumer looking for just another bit of info you probably have heard somewhere else before. I’m attempting to put everything I know, others know, and what you are looking to know (you clicked on the thread) into one place. That being said, take a gander!

What is the flatline?- The flatline is a curved barrel designed to add a large amount of range to your Tippmann 98, 98c, or A-5. It nearly doubles the range of an ordinary straight barrel. It has been proven to be the farthest shooting barrel on the market. With the flatline, you can aim straight at a target and not have to lob the paintballs to get it there. Nothing compares to the feeling you get when your opponent is lobbing paintballs which are landing harmlessly at your feet then you take one shot, a straight line, and nail him- flatlined!

How does it work?- The flatline barrel is curved upwards and has a rather rough interior. When the paintball is fired, it travels upwards, instead of straight, and falls victim to centrifugal force. The paintball starts to spin backwards inside the barrel and leaves the barrel in a straight line. The backspin creates high pressure above the paintball and low pressure below it, like an airplane wing. If the paintball was not subject to the forces of gravity, it would actually rise. The lift on the paintball counteracts the force of gravity and thus is travels on a flat line for a much longer distance. The paintball starts to lose backspin and begins to drop at around 200 feet but it will travel for almost 100 yards.

Cheapest place to buy one (that I know of)- http://www.edgepaintball.cjb.net/ - http://www.edgepaintball.cjb.net/  where you can get it for $104. Of course, you can always get them much cheaper off ebay, but this site was recommended by another forumer as a good, trustworthy place to buy from

Length- 14 inches for the 98c, 9 inches for the A-5 version

Bore size- .692- large bore

Recommended velocity- the flatline can handle as low as 240 fps, but not much higher than 290. I’d recommend shooting between 260-280 fps for best results.

Recommended paint size- small bore paint works best, even though it’s a large bore barrel.

Recommended paint to use (taken from personal experience/others’ experiences)- The following “chart” does not necessarily include all types of paint, just the ones I figured were most common and/or that I picked at random without any idea if anyone actually uses them or not. So here’s the chart “key”- works very well, works fine, could go either way, not recommended, don’t let me catch you using this

32 degrees team color

Adrenaline

Brass Eagle Afterburner

Diablo Blaze

              Dusk

              Hellfire

              Inferno

              Midnight

Direct Hit

DraXxus Artic Inferno

              Midnight

Great American

JT Elite

     J-Ball

     Maxim

     Predator

Kingman Java Classic

                              Supreme

Nelson Anarchy

              Challenger

              Hot Spot

              Nel-Splat

Nitro Duck

Paintball Inc. Proball

              Proball Platinum

Paintball Junkies

PMI Advantage

              Black Maxx

              Evil

              Invader

              Mercury

              Premium

RPS All Star

              Attitude

              Big Ball

              El Tigre

              EuroFlite

              Evil

              Flash

              Invader

              Marballizer

              Polar Ice

              Premium Gold

              Slamball

              SuperSwirl

Tippmann Werks

Viewloader

Xtreem Aftermath

              Legends

              Pointblank

              Steel

Zap Advantage

              Performance Plus

              Primer

              Pro Series

              Pro European

              Select

              Sport

Installing the flatline- The first step to enjoying the flatline is installing it. Just screw it in like a normal barrel, right? Wrong. The flatline is anything but ordinary and that fact is shown best when you attempt to install it. Here are the verbatim instructions off the Tippmann website.

The A-5 instruction are located here- http://www.tippmann.com/support/manual/a5flatlinemanual.pdf - http://www.tippmann.com/support/manual/a5flatlinemanual.pdf

Basically what it’s saying is this- Loosen the three bolts, slide in the barrel adapter and oil the inside. Then slide in the barrel ( I put the barrel in first, then the shroud) and make sure it’s aligned straight. Now tighten the pinch bolt on the barrel adapter. The hard part in the installation is actually putting the barrel in straight. If you look on the top and back part of the muzzle break, you will notice a notch in the barrel a few mm across. Look down the front of the barrel and line that up with the crack on the marker where the two receiver halves meet. It should be at the 12 o’clock position. Now tighten the pinch bolt. I recommend going out to a safe area and firing 3 shots at something harmless (like a tree or cardboard target). If the shot grouping is not dead on from about 40 yards, loosen your pinch bolt and turn the barrel accordingly. I recommend scratching in your own mark, either on tape or on the barrel itself, once the barrel is installed correctly because the notch on the muzzle break is not necessarily where the center needs to be. Some people tend to hold the marker naturally at a certain angle. Align the flatline to shoot straight from this position, not up-and-down with the marker. 

             The plastic shroud is not needed for the performance of the barrel, but it does protect it. It helps keep dirt and mud out of the barrel adapter and it protects from the bumps and bruises a barrel would acquire during use.

How to clean the flatline- The most important step on your way to enjoying the flatline is installing it. The second is cleaning it. Think of the flatline as a high performance car. You want to treat it right so it’ll treat you right. The best way to prevent a ball break is to make sure the barrel is free of debris. Fill up a bathtub about a foot deep with warm water. Put everything- the flatline, the shroud, the adapter- into the water. Pour in a little soap, it doesn’t matter what kind, and let it soak for about 30 minutes. When you take it out of the water, dry off the shroud and barrel adapter. Take your squeegee and run it through the barrel about 4-5 times to get any last debris out. Let them sit inside (not outside in the sun, as it can weaken objects after an extended period of time) to dry.  

The cotton ball method- This is intended as a “quick fix” and should not be your main cleaning after a ball break. Take a baggie and fill it with about a dozen cotton balls. Then fill it with alcohol (not Sam Adams) so that it covers the cotton balls. Take it with you during play and when you get a ball break, unhinge the elbow, place an alcohol-soaked cotton ball in the chamber, and fire it out. When you fire it, aim to hit someone because the cotton ball will be covered in paint. Do this about 2-3 times. The alcohol will break down the paint and the cotton ball will carry it out. Like I said, this is only a temporary solution. A good cleaning after the day is over is a good idea.                         

"The balls curve up when the leave the barrel"- Nope. Not true, or atleast in the noticable sense. The upwards lift created by the backspin cancels out the downwards pull from gravity, allowing the paintballs to go further. It does rise a tiny bit, but a matter of millimeters. In general, they leave the barrel in a straight line and don't start going down until the upwards lift starts to slow (the spin slows) and no longer cancels out gravity. This was one of those myths that is based on fact but expanded to a bigger deal than it really is.

“The flatline doesn’t shoot as fast as other barrels”- The following will eliminate much reading- 280 fps is always going to be 280fps. If you’re too thick headed to understand that, how about an explanation?  The illusion the balls are traveling slower is just that- an illusion. Your eyes aren’t used to seeing a paintball travel for that far in such a straight line. Your mind assumes it’s traveling the standard distance but you see that it’s in the air longer. You thus conclude that it’s traveling slower. It is true that over distance the paintball loses speed, as with any barrel, but that’s something you sacrifice when you get the longer range. You just have to decide if it’s worth it to you.

“The flatline isn’t accurate”- With the flatline, you have a much greater engagement distance than with any other barrels. The flatline is very accurate at distances that other barrels can reach. It doesn’t compare to a Freak or an All American, but it can hold it’s own. The problem is, people think it should be just as accurate at longer distances. What they don’t think about is that the paintball is subject to the wind, moisture in the air, ect longer. The greater a distance it travels, the more it’s exposed. If there is a 5 mph wind coming from the left, it might blow a paintball shot out of a straight barrel to the right three inches from the aiming point by the time it hits the ground. The same situation would blow a paintball shot from a flatline off target by possibly a foot by the time it hits the ground. The flatline is still very accurate at “normal” ranges, but the farther the paintball travels, the more it’s affected by outside forces and the greater a chance is has of being knocked off target. Properly installing a flatline, as outlined before, will also make a huge difference in how accurate it is.

“You can’t shoot fast with a flatline”- It’s a problem of multiplication. The faster you shoot, the more paintballs travel through your barrel. The more paintballs travel through your barrel, the greater the likelihood that one will break. Let’s say Johnny Triggerhappy is shooting at 10 bps for 10 seconds. In that period of time, he’s shot 100 paintballs. Now let’s say the odds are that one in every 100 paintballs breaks (for that to be true, he’d have to be shooting with bad paint, but for simplicity’s sake, let’s say those are the odds). He’d be breaking one paintball every time he did this. It’s not that the flatline breaks balls, it’s that people shoot more and with bad paint. The reason the flatline seems to break so many paintballs is that it tends to be picky with paint, so the odds may worsen for you if you don’t pay attention to which type paintballs you use.

“The paintballs don’t break at the longer ranges”- This is false. Take a hammer and hit a paper plate on a stand (or parent). Now tie a rope to the end of the hammer and go hit a paper plate while swinging the hammer by the rope in a counter-clockwise manner. The second time should produce much more damaging results. A spinning paintball not only has the force from going forward, but the force from spinning upwards too. As a general rule of thumb- don’t expect the paintballs to break once they start to drop. But if you can hit the person in a straight line, your chances are good that the paintball will break on them.

Curving paintballs- You’ll find that by turning the flatline on its side, you can actually put a slight curve on paintballs. You can curve them around the edges of bunkers or other objects or you can turn the marker upside down and drop them over the top like a knuckle ball. This is due to the spin put on the paintball. When you put the marker on it’s side, the backspin becomes sidespin. You just have to mess around with it to get a feel for how much they curve. It’s hard to accurately predict where they will land when you curve them, but I have developed a pretty good method- I have fashioned a sight made from toothpicks to help me accurately place my shots when I decide to curve them. With the toothpick sight, I simply aimed at a spot 40 yards away and then watched where the paintball hit at 40 yards. I cut a toothpick on the barrel(keep in mind- the marker is on it's side right now)lying perpendicular to the marker when it's straight up, pointing towards where my shot landed. I did this for both sides. Think of the sights for a bow and arrow. That's kind of what it looks like.

The A-5 Flatline- The A-5 flatline works and acts the same as the 98c version. The concept behind it, and everything about it- curving balls, being semi-accurate at longer distances, the distance it shoots, ect is the same as the 98 custom version. The only thing that's different is more of the technical info like how to install it and the length.  

I hope this post helped. It has taken me about 2 weeks to write this up and gather information. I hope to inform many of the potential flatline users as to what, exactly, the flatline really is. I’ve tried to make my information as accurate as possible, but if you see an error, please feel free to correct me. I’d appreciate it very much.

Best of luck,

                     Rhino39

 How to make my Blade trigger (The Evil Blade Trigger)

Read All Directions Before Purchasing The Items & DO NOT  RUSH THROUGH ANY OF THE DIRECTIONS. If you would like me to do it for you, you can send your stock or double trigger to me with your name and address with $30.00 and they only come in black. I will do every thing for you and sure make it look great. I do not have trigger guards.

What you will need:

1.       a piece of aluminum (The measurements are in detail on the bottom)

2.       stock 98 custom trigger

3.       paper, pencil, an exacto blade, copy machine…etc.

4.       heavy duty vise clamp

5.       a metal cutting band saw

6.       super glue and super glue bondß---(very hard to find, it is very old but it works very good)

7.       metal filers

8.       some wood

9.       primer paint, paint color of your choice, and clear coat

10.   fine grit wet sand paper

11.   mid grit automotive sand paper wet or dry

12.   some materiel around the house

13.   Jigsaw, or saber saw

14.   DERMEL sanding tools *optional*

Well I have been doing this for the locals for some money; I can always tell you how to do it. Or you can sent it to me and I’ll do it for you for $30.00 bucks

1. Get the stock single trigger and sketch it as close as you can on paper.

2. Draw the design that you desire on that piece of paper that you sketched the stock trigger on

3. Go a local hardware store or machine shop to buy a piece of metal about 3/8”  thick at least 3" tall and it doesn't matter how long it is   (the smaller the better but not too small so if you mess up you can do it again)

Get it in aluminum alloy it is about $4-5 dollar (its by weight so the lighter it is the cheaper)

4. After you have got the metal and the drawing photo copy the drawing so you can always have a back up drawing. 

5. Cut the drawing out like a template so you can trace it on to the metal. trace in permanent marker so it doesn't come off when you cut it. it is always better to trace it again after you have traced it with the marker, but this time crave it so you can always see it.

(When you make the template make such you only cut the new piece that is going on to the stock trigger out of the paper)

6. If you have the tools then go a head and cut out the trigger. it is okay not to cut in detail you can always go back and sand all the curves out later.

7. Now sand it in detail to the look that you desire. (use metal filers, the best one to use is the one with a round side and a flat side)

8. This is the hardest part. now you need to cut between the metal so it has a opening that is about a 1/4” between the metal and about 1” up and down.

Use the vise clamp to hold it and cut it with a jigsaw, if you don’t have a band saw. It is always better to have heavy duty tools. Sand between the metal after you sand the trigger until it fits tightly on top of each other.

(When using the vise clamp always have wood on the sides of the trigger to protect it)

*It ca be cut a little thinner than 1/4” if you want to sand the trigger thinner*

9. Sand the both sides of the stock trigger until it is about a 1/4” thick. (sand only the highlighted parts)

10.  Now use the vise clap to hold the trigger and mold it on with the super glue and super glue bond.

(The super glue bond makes the super glue really strong, it will be strong enough)

11. sand it smooth, apply super glue and super glue bond where needed. (you should put it in the front of the trigger and sand that down nice and smooth)

12. Now paint it, don’t paint the top of the trigger just what you see.

Make sure you have a control spot to paint in. Hang the trigger in the air with a coat hanger or what ever you have. Every set of paint must be painted at once. You can not paint on side then the other. DO NOT TRY TO RUSH THIS PROCESS.

Do not over spray

1.       Put about 2-3 thin coats of primer. Let the paint dry between coats. Leave the primer to dry for about 2-3 hours or until it is safe to touch.

2.       Now paint it in what every color you want. 2-3 nice sticky coatings. Let the paint tacky between coats.  Leave the paint to dry for about 8-9 hours. It is better to leave it for 24 hours just in case.

3.       Now apply the clear coat, there is really no limit to the coating on the clear coats.  I say about 3-5 coats of clear coat is good. Let it dry for a full 24 hours. Recoat any time.

That is all that you have to do. Have fun with it, never try to rush the process. It takes a great amount of time to finish this project and quiet a bit of money. I’m not responsible for any of you mistakes. Do this at your own risk.

The Measurements in detail

Legend

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Speed ball trigger mod

^^this is to adjust the pretravel, the overtravel is adjusted by the trigger stop. this is really good but you need to do good work with the trigger slider. if you adjust it and do every thing right you will not need a trigger stop. the trigger will be to close so there is no need for a trigger stop. 2-3mm

Doing it in detail

you drill a hole where the trigger return spring is and you tap it to the mesurements of what every size grub screw the you have.(this is to adjust how far the trigger stops after you shoot)(trigger stops are to adjust the trigger after the sear has been setted off< so you dont have to pull the rest of the pull that you dont need after the sear has been setted off) after you have tapped a hole where the trigger return spring is on the trigger, and putted a grub screw there you will need a new spring since the grub screw will push down on the spring too hard and making the trigger return hard. now you need to mod the slider so that the pull is extremely long so you can adjust it with that grub screw on the trigger so that it is extremely short (up to 2-3 mm pull mines is at about 2 mm) the slider needs to be either sand it down, or cut it with a DERMEL rotartary drill. only sand or cut what is sticking out ot the trigger, mark it so you know where to stop. make it like a "L". after you have moded the slider, now adjust the screw that is on the trigger return and it will be a really short pull if you get it short enought you wont need trigger stops.

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revy mod

this mod, is to make you revy up to caliber with better hoppers.

this will change the 12v voltage regulator to a 18v voltage regulator, that will eat you batterys faster but, the servo motor will spin faster. this is what i was going to do

things that you might need

1. 24v servo motor
2. 18v voltage regulator
3. 24v rechargeable battery pack
4. 6 prong (or custom weed wacker mod) <-- works with regular 4 prong
5. intelliget feed mod.
6. pretty good skills with soldering, drilling, wiring, and stuff like that

first off, rewire the 12v servo motor to the 24v servo motor, switch the 12v V.R. to the 18v V.R. (this you do not really need to do, but it would make the servo spin faster) then wire the new battery pack in, and intelliget you hopper. test and let it rip

i say dont do this untill i try it!

evil-vision

Effective Upgrading

1) When buying upgrades for your gun remember it is your gun, you have to ask yourself what do I want to change, not what the people on the forum want to change. You also need to decide what type of gun do you want,(ex. speedball, woodsball, scenario, etc.), answering this question will be key in buying upgrades.

2) It is mutualy agreed that stock barrels suck, most always the first upgrade to buy is a barrel, many people have varying opinions on this subject. Some popular models are Lapco Bigshot, J&J Ceramic, Flatline, Boomstick, and many more. Barrels also vary in price, they range from $35 to $150. Buget also plays a role in upgrading, however more expensive does not always mean better, I believe that a Bigshot is just as good as a Boomstick though there is quite a price difference.

3) The next upgrade is usualy air, you must decide if you are willing to pay alot for the superior Nitrogen, or if you are content with Co2. Most say nitro is better but all say nitro is more expensive so once again the old pocketbook comes into play. However if you do stick with Co2 you will definiantly want to buy a good expansion chamber, these help to keep your Co2 consistent and they keep liquid out of your gun.

4) After you have air and a barrel, you need to make a choice, what type of play do I want my gun to excel at. If you want a speedball gun you may want a drop forward or a fire power upgrade like an R/T and an electronic hopper. Maybe you want a woodsball gun so you get a scope or a remote line. You can also get upgrades for looks, like fake magazines and suppresors, many players get their guns painted, the posobilities are endless.

5)In my expirience 1/4 of the fun in paintball is upgrading and showing off your gun, however this can be expensive and frustrating. As you upgrade your gun remember that it is your gun and that there is no limit.

       -- For Honor

A-5 Trigger Mods

here are a bunch of a-5 mods...

tell me what you think and, if there are any other good ones out there that i have quiet figured out yet..

ill try to get pics soo *done*

New* A-5 mod diagram

evil ----- out

here are a bunch of a-5 mods...

http://www.tippmann.com/wwf75/javascript%20emoticon':v:'"> http://www.tippmann.com/wwf75/javascript%20emoticon':i:'"> http://www.tippmann.com/wwf75/javascript%20emoticon':l:'">   http://www.tippmann.com/wwf75/javascript%20emoticon':9:'"> http://www.tippmann.com/wwf75/javascript%20emoticon':8:'">

tell me what you think and, if there are any other good ones out there that i have quiet figured out yet..

ill try to get pics soo

evil ----- out

pen spring mod

things that you need

1. (1) pen spring (you might want more so that you can play with it)
2. (1) A-5

well its basicly what the title is. you get a clicking pen and take out the spring. now take apart the trigger assembly and take off the stock sear spring, and cut the pen spring to the same size as the stock's. if you want the pull to be a bit littler then how it already is. then cut the spring so that it just slides into the spacer and the sear without forcing it in. so the spring just drops in.

this will conclude to a lighter trigger pull

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maginet sear mod

things that you need

1. (2) rare maginets
2. (1) A-5

again the title is what the mod is. you bacily take to strong rare earth maginets and flip them so that the reple each other. the sear is steel so the maginet will just stick on the the sear without a problem. the spacer is a bit different. you should get a round rare earth maginet and a square earth maginet. the round one for the spacer and the square one for the sear. the round maginet can be forced into the space between the spacer. the other maginet can just stick to the sear. this is a great mod.

this will conclude to a even lighter pull. (aka walkable)

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trigger stop

things that you will need

1. (1) set screw or regular screw
2. (1) regular power drill
3. (?) assorted drill bits
4. (?) taps
5. (1) A-5

ok a trigger stop is a great mod. it means what it is. it stops the trigger, it stops the trigger from going any further then it needs to. when you pull the trigger you only need to pull enought to trip the sear to release the hammer. well on the A-5 the trigger stop is a big mod. it helps alot. all that you have to do is either drill a hole on the trigger guard near the bottom of the trigger (preferably). after you drill the hole then you tap it to a set screw measurement (preferably 8-32 1/4" or 3/8"set screw). or you can tap the RT hole to a regular screw and screw that into it. then drill a hole on the back of the frame so that you adjust it from the back. now for adjusting it. first cock the A-5 then slowly pull the trigger and at the point of fire adjust the set screw forward untill the A-5 Barly fires, then slow adjust backward so that it pulls with eases. adjust to your likings

this will conclude to a shorter pull

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sear mod

things that you will need

1. (1) small diameter straw (about the same size of the pin)
2. (1) slightly bigger then the first straw
3. (1) set screw (preferably 8-32 1/4"or 3/8"or 1/2"set screw what ever works)
4. (1) regular power drill
5. (?) assorted drill bits
6. (?) taps
7. (1) A-5

this is a mod that will either make or break (well not phsicaly break). there are two ways of doing this. you can either use straws, or a set screw. with the set screw is adjustible so it is better. but it is a bit harder, you need to drill and tap a hole on the spacer that holds the sear spring to an angle prefectly if you were to put a set screw there and you adjust it forward that it will push the sear upward when you push the sear foward like the hammer does(the set screw is what i mean by break, if you do it wrong there is no way of fixing the spacer unless you replace it). the other way is that you can cut a straw 1/4" long and put the straw with the same diameter on the pin that the sear rests on, then put the slightly bigger one over the smaller one. if you start to double fire then take the bigger one off. this will make the sear higher so that the pull is lighter and more snappie

this will conclude to a lighter and snappier shot

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pretravel mod (preferably with the sear mod)

things that you will need

1. (1) set screw (preferably 8-32 1/4"or 3/8" set screw what ever works)
2. (1) regular power drill
3. (?) assorted drill bits
4. (?) taps
5. (1) A-5
6. (optional) vise clamp and drill press)

the pretravel mod is to adjust the prefire of the A-5. this wil make the trigger pull very short preferably done with the sear mod. all that you have do is drill a hole where the trigger return spring so in the trigger or more further so that the trigger return spring can still work right. then tap it to the set screw. screw it all the way so that the set screw is hidden. then assemble it all back together. ok so with the sear mod there is alot of prefire movement. so adjust the screw upward a quarter turn at a time, untill it doesnt fires, then a quarter turn at a time downward so that it fires barly. adjust to your likings.

this will conclude to a shorter pull

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maginet return mod

things that you will need

1. (2) rare maginets
2. (?) super glue or some type of adhesive
3. (1) A-5

this is a simple mod that anyone can do. just go and but 2 round rare maginets and force on into the trigger spacer, and another that is reverse polarity. either cut the nub off of the trigger return spring of sand it down, and glue the maginet on. that is it

this will conclude to a longer lasting trigger return

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no slop mod

things that you will need

1. (1) sheet of very thin aluinum i.e. like hair line
2. (1) Dremel
3. (?) super glue or some type of adhesive
4. (optional) shear
5. house hold material

this is a pretty nice mod. all that you have to do is take the sheet of aluinum and trace out the trigger plate on to it(preferably smaller then the plate). then cut it out with a shear if possible. after that either drill or sand out the hole for the safety if you need to. then sand the trigger plates down with either 80-60 grit sand paper so that the glue will stick better. then you can glue the aluminum sheets to the out sides of the plate and use the Dremel to sand the inside of the A-5 down a bit so that the trigger assembly fits in with out any movement between the trigger assembly and the inside of the A-5. that is it

this will conlude to a less or no slop trigger

more too come!!! PM me for more info, and if you find any that i havent quiet figured out..

evil 

evil-vision

Well, KRL said i should put this in here now so here it is. Also, here is a link to the original thread so you can view all the questions and answers that followed.

http://www.tippmann.com/wwf75/forum_posts.asp?TID=72845& PN=1 - http://www.tippmann.com/wwf75/forum_posts.asp?TID=72845& PN=1

RT and E-Grip Comparison

Too many people post topics on which is better for the A-5; the E-grip or the Response trigger. I was one of these people once. Through this post I hope to prevent more posts that ask the same question.

A-5

Response Trigger

The response trigger system is a firepower upgrade available only for the Tippmann 98 and the Tippmann A-5. It is powered by excess gas during blowback. This gas causes a piston inside the response cylinder to jolt forward, which in turn pushes the trigger back to the ready to fire position much faster than the normal trigger return spring can. This is an advantage because if you keep constant pressure on the trigger while moving your finger slightly, you can achieve an almost “full-auto” effect, though it is still 1 ball per pull. This full-auto effect is accomplished by finding the sweet spot. The sweet spot is the right amount of pressure applied to the trigger to achieve constant fire. The piston will push the trigger, along with your finger, back to the ready to fire position almost immediately after the gas charge is released. Therefore, if you keep pressure on the trigger, the force of your finger on the trigger will fire the marker, and the force of the piston on the trigger will push the trigger back to the ready to fire position. The RT is adjustable in that you can adjust the amount of air flowing into the cylinder by turning a screw. The response trigger is capable of, on average, about 15 balls per second. Though a finely tuned RT may achieve a higher rate of fire than that. The response trigger is available as a drop in upgrade for your 98 custom or A-5. It costs between $70-$80 on the web, depending on where you look.

Picture

E-grip

          The e-grip is an electronic upgrade for you’re A-5. It replaces the stock grip and looks and feels exactly the same. Unlike the e-bolt (for the model 98), the e-grip is a sear tripper, rather than a true electro pneumatic (e-bolt). the e-grip is capable of reaching a capped limit of 15 balls per second. The rate of fire is selected by using a small screwdriver to change rate. Firing mode is selected in the same way. When you pull the trigger, a switch is released which activates a solenoid. When the solenoid is activated, it trips the sear for you. Since YOU are not tripping the sear, and only releasing a switch on the pull, the trigger pull on the e-grip is very light. Various trigger mods can shorten the pull even more also. The e-grip is powered by a 9-volt battery that sits in the grip itself. This 9-volt battery will power the e-grip for about 3000 shots, at which point, it would need to be changed. To install the e-grip, simply remove the ASA from the bottom of the stock grip, remove the 2 pushpins holding the grip on, and pull it off. Then put the e-grip on where the stock grip was. Return the 2 push pins into the holes holding the grip, and return the ASA to the bottom of the e-grip the same way you took it off. It’s that simple. The e-grip comes with five different firing modes. They are:

Full Auto: constant fire while trigger is depressed

Semi Auto: one shot per trigger pull

3 round burst: 3 shots per pull; can be stopped in middle of burst if trigger is released

Auto Response: one shot per pull and one shot per release

Turbo: semi auto until four shots per second is exceeded, at which point it becomes Auto Response mode

The e-grip can be purchased for around $115 on the web and will only work on an A-5.

Picture

          The GTA (genuine tippmann accessories) double trigger will increase the performance of both of these upgrades, and will increase rate of fire and decrease pull weight even by itself.

A good place to purchase these upgrades and many more is

http://www.countypaintball.com/ - http://www.countypaintball.com/

If anyone has anything that they would like to add regarding these upgrades, or if there is something I missed, please share. Your input is much appreciated.

I hope this provides some help to all of you people out there who are trying to decide which of these great upgrades to get.

TippyFreaK03

All about the R/T

What is it?

The Response Trigger System is a Drop-In Kit that Tippmann Pneumatics sells for both the 98 (Custom or Model) and the A-5. It is a Drop-In Kit for the A-5 and 98 Custom. But, the Model 98 needs to be milled for it to fit in right. Tippmann will take your Model 98, give you 98 Custom Receiver Halves, Along with the other parts needed, and will give you an R/T for $120.

How it works:

When the 98 or A-5 fires, there is excess Gas/ Air thatr is not used to propel the Paintball. Usually, that is just extra Gas/Air and is vented away. But with the R/T, it uses that excess Gas/ Air to power a little Piston that is located behind the Trigger. So, after everytime you shoot/fire the Paintball Marker, the R/T will take that excess Gas/Air and it will send the Gas/Air to the R/T's Piston. When that happens, the Piston will fill up with Air and it will push forward a little pin which will re-set the Trigger. It will do it fast enough so you will still end up having force on the Trigger. So, you will pull it again. That is called "Trigger Bounce".

What is all included:

98: The Response Trigger for the 98 will come with a new R/T Power Tube, R/T Hose (Cocker 3-Way), Banjo Fitting, Knurled Adjuster, and R/T Piston.

A-5: The Response Trigger for the A-5 will come with a new 3-Way Banjo Fitting for both the Cyclone and R/T, Knurled Adjuster, Knurled Adjuster Fittings, and R/T Piston.

FAQ:

1. Does the R/T use more Air?
No it does not! The R/T uses EXCESS Air to power itself.

2. How many BPS can it shoot?
Most R/T's will shoot around 14-15 BPS. But, some well tuned R/T's will fire at 16-17 BPS.

3. Is it Full Auto?
Not really. It just "Bounces" the Trigger. It is still 1 shot for each Trigger Pull.

4. Is it Tourny Legal?
It all depends. Some Feilds allow it, some dont. Go and ask them.

5. My R/T is not working. Whats wrong?
It could be a few problems.

1. You are putting too muich force on the Trigger. Therefore, the Piston cant Re-Set the Trigger.
2. There is something blocking the R/T's Air Hose.
3. The R/T is not adjusted properly.

6. My R/T is open on the end!!
The new R/T's have an Open "Face" on them.

How to install the Response Trigger:

98:
1. Dissassemble your Marker.
2. Remove the Valve Bolts and Re-Move the Power Tube.
3. Remove the Air hose or Verticle Adapter from the Valve/ Power Tube.
4. Get the Valve out of the Power Tube. You can lightly tap the Power Tube on a towle untill the Valve slides out.
5. Insert the Valve into the NEW Power Tube.
6. Take the right Receiver Half and a Nail-Set or Hole Punch. There is a little Groove/Slot about the Grips. Knock out that little "Plug"
7. Install the R/T Piston.
8. Put in all the Internals including the Power Tube. Dont forget the Valve Bolts!
9. Screw on the Banjo Fitting and Knurled Adjuster. Connect the Air Hose.
10. Adjust it and start ripping out the paint!!

A-5:
1. Dissassemble the Marker. Take off the Grip Frame.
2. On the Right side of the Grip Frame, there is a small "Notch". Break that little peice out. You can use your fingers.
3. Take apart the Grip Frame and put in the R/T Piston.
4. Put in the new Trigger Plates. (If included) Some have them, some dont....
5. Take apart the Marker. Install the Knurled Adjuster and Fittinginto the bottom right hand corner of the Marker.
6. Put the Marker back together.
7. Take off the old Banjo Fitting (Connected to the Cyclone) and put on the new one.
8. Adjust it and start ripping out the paint!!

For more info, check out the Tippmann Systems Page on www.tippmann.com

-tgaffner

~What you can find Co2 vs. nitro, Helpful things for Co2 and for it to wrk beter in all typs of play, Helpful things for Nitro and for it to work better.~

I Would Like To Thanks Milkman, KRL15,Tippmann Tech People, And My Self. For all this info. ~SOME Was Mine SOME was Others.~

~Frist~

Co2 vs. Nitro

Done By Tippmann Tech

Co2 changes pressure as the temperature changes, the higher the temperature the higher the pressure. The change in pressure is caused from Co2 compressing to a liquid at a fairly low pressure. 

As the temperature of the Cylinder increases more of the liquid is boiled into a gas, causing the pressure to increase.  The marker is designed to function mainly on the gas portion, but it is very difficult to separate the liquid from the gas.  If the valve in your marker is colder than the cylinder, Co2 gas will condense back into a liquid inside the valve. If the two areas are the same temperature, which is normally the case, the valve will draw and use a combination of both liquid and gas. This constantly changing of pressure causes inconsistency in velocity along with inefficiency. 

The reason the markers are designed to use Co2, is because Co2 is very abundant and affordable.  The CVX valve does an excellent job compensating for this inconsistency  giving  you excellent efficiency and consistency.  

Compressed air is simply outside air compressed at a higher pressure.  Outside air contains mostly nitrogen (78%), 21 percent oxygen, and the remaining 1 percent is a mixture of gases.  The majority of the gas in compressed air is nitrogen.  The difference in performance between nitrogen compressed and air compressed in the paintball marker application is very little if any. 

Compressed air and nitrogen are very slightly affected by temperature change, which gives better results in shot to shot consistency over Co2.  Also with compressed air and nitrogen the marker can be set up to operate off of a preset regulated pressure giving you more gas efficiency.  With Co2, the marker has to function at a large variety of pressures.  In order to achieve this some efficiency is sacrificed. 

~Second~

Done by milkman/I add soem things

Helpful Things for Co2/And all typs of things for it to work better

warp mods

http://obdo.flipty.com/mods-12vwarpfeed.htm - http://obdo.flipty.com/mods-12vwarpfeed.htm

easier way to fix hopper wobble:

take off the feed elbow and stretch a standard tank o-ring around the bottom of it. thats it.  (this mod may need replacement every once in a while)

Updated 6/23/04
This should be complete now. Velocity Adjustment Screw is now added. "W"
Additional Info which is located bottom of this thread.

Hopefully this helps a few of you guys.

The one on the left is a Low Head Black-Oxide Finish Screw.
These are heat treated for strength and are the ones that comes with your Tippmann 98 Custom.
The one on the right is an 18-8 Stainless Steel Screw and they offer excellent corrision resistance.

Notice the difference in head heights.
Low Head screws will be flush to your receivers, where as the 18-8 S.S. screws will be sticking out from your receivers a little under 1/8".

You can pick these up from your local hardware store (maybe), www.mcmaster.com, - www.mcmaster.com, paintball stores or Tippmann themselves. Please note that you won't find these odd lengths. It's better to go long and cut to size (so that the screw thread end is flush to nut).

LOW HEAD BLACK OXIDE FINISH CHART:



Now these are the EXACT sizes that are on your Tippmann 98 Custom!
A) Low Head Socket Cap Screw, #10-32 x 1 3/32" R.H., Use 1/8" Hex Key
B) Low Head Socket Cap Screw, #10-32 x 21/32" R.H., Use 1/8" Hex Key
C) Low Head Socket Cap Screw, #10-32 x 1" R.H., Use 1/8" Hex Key
D) Button Head Hex Screw, #6-32 x 3/8" R.H., Use 3/16" Hex Key
E) Button Head Hex Screw, #10-32 x 27/32" R.H., Use 1/8" Hex Key
F) Button Head Hex Screw, #10-32 x 1 3/32" R.H., Use 1/8" Hex Key
G) "Inside Grip Panel", #10-32 Square Nut R.H.
H) 10-32 Hex Nut R.H.
I) Button Head Hex Screw, #10-32 x 7/32" R.H., Use 1/8" Hex Key
J) Button Head Hex Screw, 1/4"N.C. x 1" R.H., Use 5/16" Hex Key
K) 1/4" Standard Washer
L) 1/4" N.C. Square Nut R.H.
M) Button Head Screw, #8-32 x 1/4" R.H., Use Philips Head Screwdriver
W) 5/16"-24 x 1/2" Length Setscrew, Cup Point, Black Oxide Finish Or 18-8 S.S., Use 5/32 Hex Key

You're probably asking "Why the odd lengths?". Yeah, that's what I thought too. But let's say for the smaller receiver screws...If you use 5/8" in length, it's too short. If you use 3/4", it's too long (the threads stick out too much from the nut). Here's what I did: I bought a bunch of #10-32 x 1 1/4" and cut them to length using a boltbuster ( www.boltbuster.com - www.boltbuster.com ). Or you can use the bolt cutter on a wire stripper if you're manly. As for the bottom bolts that hold your tank adapter or drop forward, I recommend using a #10-32 x 1" for both. It works fine.

18-8 STAINLESS STEEL CHART
The reason why I am showing this chart is because the Hex Key (or Allen Wrench) that you use are A DIFFERENT SIZE than the one that you use on the Low Head Black Oxide Screw.
You can buy them again at a local hardware store (maybe), paintball stores, www.mcmaster.com - www.mcmaster.com OR through eBay. Again, buy them long and cut to size.



N) Socket Cap Screw, #10-32 x 21/32" R.H., Use 5/32" Hex Key
O) Socket Cap Screw, #10-32 x 1 3/32" R.H., Use 5/32" Hex Key
P) Socket Cap Screw, #10-32 x 1" R.H., Use 5/32" Hex Key
Q) Button Head Screw, #6-32 x 3/8" R.H., Use Philips Screwdriver
R) "Inside Grip Panel", #10-32 Square Nut R.H.
S) Socket Cap Screw, #10-32 x 1" R.H., Use 5/32" Hex Key
T) 10-32 Hex Nut R.H.
U) "Not Shown", Button Head Hex Screw, #10-32 x 7/32" R.H., Use 1/8" Hex Key
V) Button Head Hex Screw, #8-32 x 1/4" R.H., Use 3/32" Hex Key
W) 5/16"-24 x 1/2" Length Setscrew, Cup Point, Black Oxide Finish Or 18-8 S.S., Use 5/32 Hex Key

The 1/4" Screw, Nut & Washer on the feed elbow are the same spec's as the Black Oxide Finish.

ADDITIONAL INFO
I would like to add that the following is ALSO available:
-Low Head Black Oxide 18-8 Stainless Steel
-Standard Head Black Oxide 18-8 Stainless Steel
But be aware, there may not be all the sizes available for you to fit your 98C if you are sticking to a certain class. For instance, I don't think you can find anything longer than 1" in a 10-32 Standard Socket Cap Screw in Black Oxide Finish 18-8 Stainless Steel (To fit for "A" or "O").

Your paintball marker needs maintenance and adjustments. It is not a toy!

~1~ The first step in caring for your gun is to read the manual. You should be able to identify each part of your marker by name and functionality. You should be comfortable with removing the bolt assembly of the paintball marker to do a proper cleaning. CAUTION: never use anything but approved lubricants/oil on your paintball gun. Petroleum-based lubricants can swell the o-rings and cause problems.

At least once a month, or before playing, do this little maintenance routine: drop 4 to 8 drops of oil in the ASA adapter (the piece where your CO2 or nitrogen bottle fits.) Remove the barrel, attach your gas cylinder and fire about 30 shots of air through the marker. This spreads the oil throughout the entire marker, without getting any in the barrel.

After each day's play, you should strip your paintball marker down and clean out any bits of paint from broken paintballs.  After removing any paint, oil the internals. You don't have to "coat" a part, 1 to 2 drops is usually sufficient. Then use your finger to spread the oil all over the part. Make sure to oil the bolt and striker/hammer pretty heavily, especially where there is considerable wear.

~2~ To keep your CO2 tank o-ring from being destroyed during removal of the CO2 cylinder try unscrewing your cylinder about 1/2 to 3/4 turn (which disengages the pin on the CO2 cylinder valve) and firing your marker until all pressure is relieved. This will remove the pressure that may damage your o-ring.

~3~ Jammed bolts are common. Bolts jam when a piece broken paintball wedges between the bolt and the inside of the paintball marker body. The key to popping it loose is to basically pull or push it hard enough to break it free. To soften the paint, you can flush that area with hot water. With markers like the Autococker you can just grab the back-block and pull as hard as you can to pop it loose. The key with other markers is to push it loose from the front with a stick-type squeegee. I strongly recommend taking off the barrel. If you have broken shell jamming your bolt, chances are you have a broken shell and paint in your barrel as well. The last thing you want to do is shove more of that junk back into the bolt. Once you’ve popped your bolt loose, strip the bolt, and squeegee your receiver and barrel out. Squeegee cleaning clears all the garbage out and helps ensure you won’t jam again. If your bolt keeps jamming up despite squeegee cleaning, it’s time to check your feed tube, elbow, and hopper. Chances are that you broke a ball up in the hopper or chopped one and sprayed paint and shell fragments up into your feed tube. If you break a ball inside your hopper, dump your paint and clean out the hopper/loader with a clean cloth.

~4~ If your marker is breaking balls. A: turn down your rate of fire. B: check your ball detent as it should be only finger tight. C: make sure your velocity in no greater than 300 fps. D: keep your loader/hopper full. E: if you recently upgraded to a new barrel or bolt, try using the original parts again. F: check your paint, if it is misshapen, old, swollen, etc. that may be your problem. G: make sure your barrel is clean!

~5~ Is your gun sputtering? The o-rings may be worn or dry; therefore, try replacing or lubricating the o-rings. Maybe you gun needs oiled. You can take out the bolt, take off the barrel and then run a good quality squeegee through the chamber (make sure no fibers are left from the squeegee). Now that you have the bolt out, rinse it in hot water, dry it off completely, oil the bolt, and oil the o-rings and the hammer. Finally, if you shoot too fast and too long with CO2 your marker begins to freeze up (this is bad for the o-rings) and CO2 begins to leak around the o-ring causing it to sputter. This condition creates a reduction in pressure and if the pressure gets low enough, the bolt will not be pushed back far enough to cock. Therefor you may need to get an X-chamber or palmer Stabilizer. Or if you want even better performance get HPA.

~6~ Should you need additional instructions or help, check out the manufacturer’s web site for technical tips. Generally, a toll-free telephone number is provided in case you need to speak with someone directly. Remember, if the gun is going work properly, it needs to be used properly. Just like a car, or a motorcycle, or even a bicycle, it is a machine, and it does require maintenance.

~7~ Read the manual, buy some oil, learn how to properly clean the barrel and your gun with a squeegee and oil/water/ect.. If you can’t figure something out, remember that you have technical support available through the manufacturer or Go to some online Forum most people are rather helpful. It Doesn’t have to be a forum that your gun is (Spyder, Angle, Tippmann, ect.) all forums well help you best they can. And don’t whine to mom and dad about the gun being defective if you are not willing to invest your time to learn about the gun.

What order should I upgrade???

Well, here's a good plan for starters:

1. The barrel, the barrel, the barrel. Although it's not the most necessary, it's the most common first upgrade. This upgrade procedure is so common that paintball marker manufacturers (like Tippmann) don't even waste time selling a gun with a "good" stock barrel. A "pipe with threads and holes" is a good description of what stock barrels are, so the first upgrade should be/ usually is a barrel. For range, a Flatline is the only way. It's got a pretty decent accuracy, but it's pricey. Other good choices (cheapest to expensive) are the J&J Ceramic, Lapco Bigshot, Smart Parts All-American, Dye Ultralight, Freak Barrel Kit. There are many many more, but these are a few favorites among the forum users.

Here's where it gets kinda shaky- depending on what type of air you have, your route will be different. Nitro users, skip down to the Nitro Upgrade path. CO2 or those doing nitrogen/ HPA later, proceed as planned.

NOTE: CO2 is stored in tanks (yours and filling stations) as a liquid. Now realize when you exhale, that's CO2 (carbon dioxide). In order to store that gas and pressurize it effectively, they have to make it a liquid. To do that, they freeze it so the gas molecules are moving so slow they can't "fly" through the air. And it's very very very cold. What happens to a cold glass of soda when you sit it down? Water vapor condenses around it. The same will happen inside your gun and barrel- the o-rings can freeze if they get too cold and bust, and water will build up in the gun and in the barrel (and even the hopper) and can cause the gun to rust (when the bolt gets scratched up enough) or your paint to become brittle (paint is water soluable) and break in the gun/ barrel.

2. Since you are using CO2, it's a good idea to protect your investment. You can do this while improving your gun's consistency by a little under 10 percent. Why now? Well, before you start shooting your gun 15 times a second with firepower upgrades, you don't want to bust any o-rings or damage your gun/ paint. You can either purchase an Expansion Chamber (gives more room/ time for liquid CO2 to warm up enough to expand to gas where it's safer to use in the gun) or a stabilizer (works like x-chamber but also regulates the amount of pressure entering the gun). If you plan to upgrade to Nitro, it be best to purchase a stabilizer, since it can be used with both (note: only certain ones work for both- Bob Long Torpedo and Palmer Stabilizer just to name a few) CO2 and HPA. The http://www.deadonpaintball.com - Dead On Paintball 8 Chamber X-core expansion chamber and the http://www.palmer-pursuit.com - Palmer Stabilizer are favorites of most of the forum users.

3. Next is firepower, regarding the Response Trigger or the E-grip[A-5 only]/ E-bolt[98 Custom only]. There are other posts that explain these, but I'll do a little bit of detail. The R/T uses excess gas, and to go full-auto you have to sweet spot it, which can be difficult to get used to. R/Ts are also banned on some fields because they are uncomfortable watching players get hit by full-auto bursts of 15 balls when it takes only 1 to call them out. The E-grip/ E-bolt are electronic (9 volt battery) and are easier to use and have different modes of firing (semi, full, 3-rd burst, turbo[E-grip]), thus making these legal at all fields (certain modes of fire can be banned, but semi-auto cannot be banned, as all guns are [usually]). The E-grip is a sear tripper (metal rod electronically thrown up to shoot the gun, think really fast finger) and the E-bolt is an elctro-pneumatic bolt (much more complicated). Both E-bolt and E-grip are capped (shoot no faster than) at 15 bps, while R/Ts are known to go above this when tuned correctly. Most will suggest the E-grip, due to its ease of use and versatility, plus it's average $30 more than R/T. The E-bolt, however, is much more pricey at about $145 more than the R/T.

4. Now here's the fun part. This point of upgrading is based solely on what you want. I'll cover a few basics-
Drop Forwards- they move the ASA (tank screwy-in thingy) down and forward.
Stocks- a device attached to the back of a gun to steady the gun and reduce recoil by bracing it against the shoulder. There are fixed stocks (non-moving), folding (can move out of way when you don't want it), and adjustable (slides forward or back to adjust length). Generally, a remote line is used since tanks usually interfere with stocks.
Milsim Accessories- these range from new Grips, fake mags (like AK-47 mags), all the way to launchers, sight rails, bi-pods, etc. etc. These are completely your call, since it's your gun.

5. Now here's when I suggest mods. I think it's best to wait to get over the sticker shock ("I just drilled a hole into 260 dollar gun!!") before doing anything that could screw up the gun. Mods include painting, trigger mods, air vents, etc. Check out this site for some ideas. http://www.model98.net - http://www.model98.net

Nitro Upgrade Path

2. Firepower is your next upgrade. Choose between the R/T or the E-grip/ E-bolt. The R/T uses excess gas, can shoot faster then E's, is more difficult to use, and may be banned at your local field. The E's are easier, use batteries, are legal at all fields, have different modes of fire, and cost more ($30-$145 range) than R/T.

3. Now you may want to increase the consistency of your HPA. Get a regulator next. The most common on these forums (and favorite) is the http://www.palmer-pursuit.com - Palmer Stabilizer .

4. Next is open upgrades. This point of upgrading is based solely on what you want. I'll cover a few basics-
Drop Forwards- they move the ASA (tank screwy-in thingy) down and forward.
Stocks- a device attached to the back of a gun to steady the gun and reduce recoil by bracing it against the shoulder. There are fixed stocks (non-moving), folding (can move out of way when you don't want it), and adjustable (slides forward or back to adjust length). Generally, a remote line is used since tanks usually interfere with stocks.
Milsim Accessories- these range from new Grips, fake mags (like AK-47 mags), all the way to launchers, sight rails, bi-pods, etc. etc. These are completely your call, since it's your gun.

5. Here I'd suggest doing your modding, since by now your wallet is recovered from those expensive upgrades. You can find good mods at http://www.model98.net - http://www.model98.net There are other mods out there, those you'll have to find/ discover, or come up with your own mod and post it.

I hoped this helped out. I've seen many of these posts and most people give half answers and never really explain why they said get this or that.

Quick Review:

CO2 or future Nitro:
1. Barrel
2. X-chamber or Stabilizer
3. Firepower
4. Accessories
5. Mods

Nitro/HPA:
1. Barrel
2. Firepower
3. Regulator
4. Accessories
5. Mods

LordJovian wrote: What order should I upgrade??? Well, here's a good plan for starters: 1. The barrel, the barrel, the barrel. Although it's not the most necessary, it's the most common first upgrade. This upgrade procedure is so common that paintball marker manufacturers (like Tippmann) don't even waste time selling a gun with a "good" stock barrel. A "pipe with threads and holes" is a good description of what stock barrels are, so the first upgrade should be/ usually is a barrel. For range, a Flatline is the only way. It's got a pretty decent accuracy, but it's pricey. Other good choices (cheapest to expensive) are the J&J Ceramic, Lapco Bigshot, Smart Parts All-American, Dye Ultralight, Freak Barrel Kit. There are many many more, but these are a few favorites among the forum users. Here's where it gets kinda shaky- depending on what type of air you have, your route will be different. Nitro users, skip down to the Nitro Upgrade path. CO2 or those doing nitrogen/ HPA later, proceed as planned. NOTE: CO2 is stored in tanks (yours and filling stations) as a liquid. Now realize when you exhale, that's CO2 (carbon dioxide). In order to store that gas and pressurize it effectively, they have to make it a liquid. To do that, they freeze it so the gas molecules are moving so slow they can't "fly" through the air. And it's very very very cold. What happens to a cold glass of soda when you sit it down? Water vapor condenses around it. The same will happen inside your gun and barrel- the o-rings can freeze if they get too cold and bust, and water will build up in the gun and in the barrel (and even the hopper) and can cause the gun to rust (when the bolt gets scratched up enough) or your paint to become brittle (paint is water soluable) and break in the gun/ barrel. 2. Since you are using CO2, it's a good idea to protect your investment. You can do this while improving your gun's consistency by a little under 10 percent. Why now? Well, before you start shooting your gun 15 times a second with firepower upgrades, you don't want to bust any o-rings or damage your gun/ paint. You can either purchase an Expansion Chamber (gives more room/ time for liquid CO2 to warm up enough to expand to gas where it's safer to use in the gun) or a stabilizer (works like x-chamber but also regulates the amount of pressure entering the gun). If you plan to upgrade to Nitro, it be best to purchase a stabilizer, since it can be used with both (note: only certain ones work for both- Bob Long Torpedo and Palmer Stabilizer just to name a few) CO2 and HPA. The http://www.deadonpaintball.com - Dead On Paintball 8 Chamber X-core expansion chamber and the http://www.palmer-pursuit.com - Palmer Stabilizer are favorites of most of the forum users. 3. Next is firepower, regarding the Response Trigger or the E-grip[A-5 only]/ E-bolt[98 Custom only]. There are other posts that explain these, but I'll do a little bit of detail. The R/T uses excess gas, and to go full-auto you have to sweet spot it, which can be difficult to get used to. R/Ts are also banned on some fields because they are uncomfortable watching players get hit by full-auto bursts of 15 balls when it takes only 1 to call them out. The E-grip/ E-bolt are electronic (9 volt battery) and are easier to use and have different modes of firing (semi, full, 3-rd burst, turbo[E-grip]), thus making these legal at all fields (certain modes of fire can be banned, but semi-auto cannot be banned, as all guns are [usually]). The E-grip is a sear tripper (metal rod electronically thrown up to shoot the gun, think really fast finger) and the E-bolt is an elctro-pneumatic bolt (much more complicated). Both E-bolt and E-grip are capped (shoot no faster than) at 15 bps, while R/Ts are known to go above this when tuned correctly. Most will suggest the E-grip, due to its ease of use and versatility, plus it's average $30 more than R/T. The E-bolt, however, is much more pricey at about $145 more than the R/T. 4. Now here's the fun part. This point of upgrading is based solely on what you want. I'll cover a few basics- Drop Forwards- they move the ASA (tank screwy-in thingy) down and forward. Stocks- a device attached to the back of a gun to steady the gun and reduce recoil by bracing it against the shoulder. There are fixed stocks (non-moving), folding (can move out of way when you don't want it), and adjustable (slides forward or back to adjust length). Generally, a remote line is used since tanks usually interfere with stocks. Milsim Accessories- these range from new Grips, fake mags (like AK-47 mags), all the way to launchers, sight rails, bi-pods, etc. etc. These are completely your call, since it's your gun. 5. Now here's when I suggest mods. I think it's best to wait to get over the sticker shock ("I just drilled a hole into 260 dollar gun!!") before doing anything that could screw up the gun. Mods include painting, trigger mods, air vents, etc. Check out this site for some ideas. http://www.model98.net - http://www.model98.net Nitro Upgrade Path 2. Firepower is your next upgrade. Choose between the R/T or the E-grip/ E-bolt. The R/T uses excess gas, can shoot faster then E's, is more difficult to use, and may be banned at your local field. The E's are easier, use batteries, are legal at all fields, have different modes of fire, and cost more ($30-$145 range) than R/T. 3. Now you may want to increase the consistency of your HPA. Get a regulator next. The most common on these forums (and favorite) is the http://www.palmer-pursuit.com - Palmer Stabilizer . 4. Next is open upgrades. This point of upgrading is based solely on what you want. I'll cover a few basics- Drop Forwards- they move the ASA (tank screwy-in thingy) down and forward. Stocks- a device attached to the back of a gun to steady the gun and reduce recoil by bracing it against the shoulder. There are fixed stocks (non-moving), folding (can move out of way when you don't want it), and adjustable (slides forward or back to adjust length). Generally, a remote line is used since tanks usually interfere with stocks. Milsim Accessories- these range from new Grips, fake mags (like AK-47 mags), all the way to launchers, sight rails, bi-pods, etc. etc. These are completely your call, since it's your gun. 5. Here I'd suggest doing your modding, since by now your wallet is recovered from those expensive upgrades. You can find good mods at http://www.model98.net - http://www.model98.net There are other mods out there, those you'll have to find/ discover, or come up with your own mod and post it. I hoped this helped out. I've seen many of these posts and most people give half answers and never really explain why they said get this or that. Quick Review: CO2 or future Nitro: 1. Barrel 2. X-chamber or Stabilizer 3. Firepower 4. Accessories 5. Mods Nitro/HPA: 1. Barrel 2. Firepower 3. Regulator 4. Accessories 5. Mods

hahahh gj

E-Bolt Guide and Tips

We all know the most pouplar speed upgrade for 98 Customs and occasionally the Model 98 is the GTA E-Bolt and the BSI E-Bolt. Now for those of  you who can't decide which one to buy or look into, heres a few differences.

GTA E-Bolt: The GTa differs from the BSI E-Bolt in a few ways. For one, the GTA is capped at around 13bps, but can cylce faster depending on your setup. It wont get over 16CPS due to the RAM, it is mechanically set to restrict over 16CPS. The GTA LPR (Low-Pressure Regulator) also differs from the BSI LPR. The GTA LPR is a modified PMI Thor Regualtor, they're not know for their performance. By this I mean they don't function like the BSI LPR. Some people get a bad performing LPR and some get a good one. The board and electronic valve on the GTA kit is also different, it is located in the main grip area, and the electronic valve is attached to the board. The switch that activates the solenoid, is placed on 2 pins where the sear use to be, and tightens into place.

BSI E-Bolt: This kit is almost completely different than the GTA E-Bolt. Number one, the RAm is a different type than the GTA one, and cycles much faster. The board is seperate from the electronic valve and is located at the top of the grip. The elctronic valve is right below it. The switch that activates the solenoid is attached to the board, which is great so you dont have to deal with its position, and also allows a much lighter pull. The battery housing is also different because it has 2 holes on the outside. One for the slider switch, and one for te LED light which indicates the power status and blinks while shooting. The LPR is also a main focus of this kit. Why? Because it's a modified Palmer, which most Tippmann owners know that Palmer Regulators are superior. This mounts to the included 2 hole ASA. This kit also differs in a favorite way to most people. the Semi-Auto mode is capped at 30BPS which will allwo great ROF, but wont cycle that fast due to the RAM, but still gets good ROF.

Now for some tips..................

The main issue to E-Bolts when first purchased scares the owner.In my case, I aired it up, and it didn't shoot, but I just needed to adjust a few things. #1. Make sure your LPR is allowing air flow, but make sure it has no leak or you will lose pressure. #2. Adjust your velocity to the maximum, then tune it to what it should be set at. #3. Play around with your DWELL, that is what the problem was for mine, i just cranked it to the right all the way.

Make sure with the BSI and the GTA kit, that you dont have hoses or wires in the moving area of the RAM, or they will get pinched and wreck them. Theres a trick on http://www.model98.net/ - http://www.model98.net  to help precent this.

Now for the main controversy. People have had there board fried by using CO2 non-anti-siphoned. This can happen, but doesnt commonly occur. It is reccomended to use N2/Compressed Air, but not required. I peersonally use my GTA E-Bbolt on Co2 and nitrogen, and I have'nt had problems. I recommend not to let your gun ice up though, because you might get your board coated in ice, and that CAN fry your board.

Your gun will be majorly inaccurate with CO2, mine shoots and about 20 feet, the ball goes straight up in the air. Now on nitro, its very accurate. if you dont know why this happens, its because the CO2 causes velocity spiking.

Now for those who want to know if theres any upgrade boards out there, hers all that I know of. #1. Morlock Board (Requires Modifiying) #2. WAS Equalizer (Not Released Yet, and a rumor that it might not come out due to the lack of demand). LMK if theres one I missed.

If your curious what my setup is to see how my gun works with it, here it is.

98 Custom (Silver) with polished internals, GTA E-Bolt (GTA LPR ditched for a sledgehammer LPR), GTA Double Trigger, Shocktech Drop and 2 Hole ASA, HP 3-way Hose for E-Bolt, Macroline Kit, 14" Lapco Bigshot. My trigger pull is measured in at 2mm, and is walkable.

Links:
http://tippmann.com/systems/ebolt.asp - http://tippmann.com/systems/ebolt.asp
http://www.model98.net - http://www.model98.net
http://www.ballisticsports.com/item_pages/m-98-items/bsm98e- full-auto-kit.htm - http://www.ballisticsports.com/item_pages/m-98-items/bsm98e- full-auto-kit.htm

I'll update this with whatever I find that will help you guys out.

Thanks,
Joe M. (WK457)

paintballer44 wrote: D-DO NOT FREEZE YOUR PAINT (doing so will ruin your barrel and is dangerous to others)

LOL my friend left paint in his car overnight and it froze...he let it thaw then used it...electric hopper---->blender...lol no magic there

just to end all of these posts:

Tippmann has decided to end the making of the egrip. If you wanted to get the egrip the oonly way now is by ebay or a friend.

some people think the reactive trigger is automatic but its not as fast and it is illegal in tourdament

what is the formula used to find the number of shots for a 3500 psi tank? 12.5 x CI???

jaked588 wrote: easier way to fix hopper wobble: take off the feed elbow and stretch a standard tank o-ring around the bottom of it. thats it.  (this mod may need replacement every once in a while)

Awsome Thanks mate

VaNDaLiZe wrote: I have an expansion chamber cuase i use to use co2. Would the exapnsion chamber work well with nitro tank?

an expansion chamber only works for co2. it wont do anything for nitro. it would just act as a gas-through grip.

paintballer44 wrote:   BARRELS YOU WILL WANT TO STAY AWAY FROM   GTA Sniper Barrel Thunder Pig Barrels

why not thunder pig?

3-D Paintball Gun http://people.howstuffworks.com/paintball-3d-gun.htm"> http://people.howstuffworks.com/paintball-3d-gun.htm - This 3-D model lets you move a paintball gun around so you can see it from every angle! To view the model, you'll need the http://people.howstuffworks.com/framed.htm?parent=paintball1.htm&url=http://www.macromedia.com/shockwave/download - most recent version of Shockwave . If you do not have this plug-in, http://people.howstuffworks.com/framed.htm?parent=paintball1.htm&url=http://www.macromedia.com/shockwave/download - click here to load it. To send us feedback on this model, http://people.howstuffworks.com/paintball-3d-gun-feedback.htm - click here .

Paintballs have an incredibly simple construction. They're actually a lot like gel-cap pills, or bath-oil beads. They consist of a glob of colored liquid encased in a gelatin capsule. The "paint," which comes in many colors, is non-toxic, biodegradable and water soluble (so it will wash off skin and clothing).

Basically, a paintball is like a small water balloon, weighing only a few grams and measuring only 0.68 inches (1.7 cm) in diameter. The capsule holds up if you handle it or drop it from a short distance. When you shoot a paintball from a gun, however, it bursts on impact and leaves a 6-inch (13-cm) splatter of paint.

The job of the paintball gun, sometimes called a marker, is to get the paintball moving at a high rate of speed. In the basic gun, the propulsion system is compressed gas. This gas, which can be compressed carbon dioxide (CO₂), nitrogen (N₂) or ordinary air, is stored in small cartridges or larger tanks that can be attached to the gun. The gun is also attached to a hopper, which holds the paintballs.

Photo courtesy http://people.howstuffworks.com/framed.htm?parent=paintball.htm&url=http://www.warpig.com/ - WARPIG.com Modern paintball guns come in all shapes and sizes, in both rifle and pistol designs.

Different guns have different firing systems, but the basic idea in all of them is the same. The gun is cocked in some way so that a paintball can fall out of the hopper and enter the gun's barrel. Then a small burst of compressed gas is released into the barrel, just behind the paintball. The compressed gas pushes the paintball from behind with much greater force than the air on the other side of the paintball, so the paintball is propelled forward.

In order to make the game safe, the power of paintball guns is strictly regulated. Guns in play are adjusted so that the top speed of the fired paintball is 300 feet (91 m) per second. A paintball moving at this speed is unlikely to cause serious injury if it hits your skin, though it will sting and may leave a bruise. Also, since wind resistance starts slowing the paintball down as soon as it leaves the gun, it has a reduced impact when fired from a greater distance. Speeding paintballs can cause serious injury to the http://people.howstuffworks.com/eye.htm - eyes or http://people.howstuffworks.com/hearing.htm - ears , so paintball players always wear head protection.

The relatively slow projectile speed significantly limits the range of paintball fire: The paintball will fall to the ground in a much shorter distance than a faster projectile, such as a bullet. For this reason, firing a paintball gun is a sort of hybrid between firing a gun and throwing a ball. To hit somebody at a distance, the shooter has to tilt the gun up a little bit, so the paintball flies up in the air in an arc, like a http://people.howstuffworks.com/physics-of-football1.htm - football , and comes down on the target.

There are a variety of gun designs on the market, each with a slightly different system, but they are all based on the same principles. In the next section, we'll find out how guns generally work by examining the specific mechanism in a basic "pump" gun, a design that dominated paintball in the game's early days.

this website is the BEST website for true woodsballers if you play speedball dont click http://www.specopspaintball.com/ - http://www.specopspaintball.com/  some stuff might be a little pricey but its top of the line stuff

and that double trigger is GHETTO

go now you know you want to

You are now going to learn how to relocate a 9 volt battery for your ebolt into your foregrip

Supplies needed:

Dremel
Extra Wire
Soldering Iron
Ebolt
98

Start by taking your foregrip out
http://imageshack.us/">  

Then, open it up. take a dremel (or sandpaper, a pain prolly), and do what i did in the circled areas
http://imageshack.us/">

Upper circle- Dremeled out hole where wires run (The wires run from the battery, up through hole, through recievers[You know, the ridge where tubing for a vertical adapter goes], and finally , after the ridge for the vertical adapter ends, continue a small ridge with your dremel untill you can get access to your trigger frame, where the board is located.)

In the large middle circle, I ground out that thing that sticks out there untill i could fit the head of a nine volt in there cleanly. If you are going to put some sort of 9v adapter in, you may need to both grind more out, and cut your adapter down, like this
http://imageshack.us/">  

Also, in that picture you can see the wire hole better

In the bottom circle, i simply made a ridge so the battery could fit properly

Lastly, To run the wire to the trigger, quickly dremel a slot inbetween the powertube and the body to run it in, and also dremel a ditch under the trigger to the board
http://img240.imageshack.us/my.php?image=23va.jpg">

Congratulations, you now know how to relocate your ebolt battery into your foregrip

----------SUPER RT----------

I hope this helps make it easier to understand what you need and where to get them... (Besides lying to Tippmann about having a LPK...)

The BASIC Super RT mod consists or these parts:

(12") 1/8" hose
(2ea) 1/8" barb to replace the normal 1/16" barb on the control valve and one to put in the QEV
(1ea) 1/8" to 1/8" "T" banjo fitting (swivel or adjustable)
(1ea) QEV

This way requires you to change out the barb on your control valve... You run the risk of ruining your valve all together...

Here is a parts list from Clippard http://www.clippard.com/store/ - http://www.clippard.com/store/ ... Not all these Clippard parts are online, but they are in thier catalogue... I suggest calling to place the order...

1/8 hose  (only sold in 50' rolls) part# URH1-0804-BKS-050  (solid black)
1/8 Barb part# 11752-1   (or nickle plated part# CT4)
Banjo "T" part# UT0-4004
QEV part# MEV-2

Tippmannparts  http://www.tippmannparts.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.pr odInfo&productID=820&categoryID=60  - http://www.tippmannparts.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.pr odInfo&productID=820&categoryID=60  also makes a super RT kit but it does not include a QEV... I suggest getting a QEV from Palmer http://www.palmer-pursuit.com/ - http://www.palmer-pursuit.com/ ... You will also need a 1/8" barb to go along with this QEV... This QEV is an adjustable one whereas the Clippard one is not... Where the Clippard one screws on is where it sets... It may need added O-rings to get it to line up where you want... Tippmannparts also sells the 1/8" hose in shorter sections, but they don't say how long they are...

Palmer QEV part# PNEU053  (it's called  QEV 10-32 Swivel Lock)
Tippmannparts hose part# 20-19

The OPTIONAL parts for this mod are a new flow control valve that you can adjust with your fingers and an "L" fitting to change the direction of the control valve (so it doesn't stick out the side of your gun a mile)...

here are the Clippard part #'s

control valve part# MFC-3AK2
"L" fitting Part# 15002-1

REMEMBER: When ordering this stuff, everything is 10/32 threads and 1/8" hose/barbs... If your not sure about all this, I suggest looking up your nearest Clippard dealer and dealing directly with a knowledgable human being... They can make sure you get what you want... I also highly recomend getting extra O-rings... As well as getting some Loctite to "loc" your barbs in place...

 HOW TO MAKE 98 FASTER,RUN SMOOTHER,AND A LITTLE BIT USER

                                    FRIENDLY.

  Ok lets get started, this is a post on how to get you stock or near stock model 98 faster,and overall more efficient.

1. You will need to polish your internals of your gun.

2. Then replace your buffer Oring with a with a garden hose washer. This will stop the bolt from slaming back and fourth a bit and increase cycle rate by reseting the sear faster by less bolt over travel.

3. Remove the second trigger pin  so that it swings freely on olny the first pin.

4. Remove and replace the trigger spring, the one behind the peice of metal that comes in contact with the sear, with something solid and won't move out of place when the pin that holds the metal thing on is put back in place. By doing this, it will give you a mini RT in a sense, decreasing trigger pull weight and giving you more speed. "I used a cut in half airsoft bb for the replacement of the spring."

5. Remove the accual trigger spring.

6. Put a oring on the base of your eblow to keep it from rattling.

7. Replace your front bolt Oring with a tank Oring, this will stop most blow back gases so your hopper will feed a bit better.

8. This is optional but can make your gun a little bit lighter, simply pop out the metal panles behind the grips and if you want do some milling to make your gun custom.

9. Gas it up and see how it shoots, ajustments can be made and you may have to tinker a bit but its IMO worth it. I did this to my other 98c and can get 8-10 BPS out of my stock tippmann. Thats good if I say so myself. My trigger pull is short,has little slop, and rather light. Remember, practice,practice,and practice.

 So there ya go a fairly good way to make your 98 a little better then the rest. .

 NOTE- I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE YOU DO TO YOUR GUN! 

You said "A longer barrel will not increase accuracy."  This is a BS statement.  If this was true, why would tippmann themselves make a 12", 14" and 16" barrel if they all did the same thing????

They also increase how far it will go before they drop.  This is because it is giving it more momentum by keeping pressure on the paintball for longer.

daveb333 said:

You said "A longer barrel will not increase accuracy."  This is a BS statement.  If this was true, why would tippmann themselves make a 12", 14" and 16" barrel if they all did the same thing????

They also increase how far it will go before they drop.  This is because it is giving it more momentum by keeping pressure on the paintball for longer.

daveb333,

You have no clue what he is talking about!

 on a barrel kit there is a front and back section and they join together so you can have one barrel kit and match size with any paint size (remember about different paint sizes? lol). he is refering to the length of the back portion in relation to the front. And as for your idea that a longer barrel will impart more momentum on the ball,WOW, the momentum of the ball is a factor of velocity of the ball times mass of the ball divided by drag and friction. every ball of the same mass traveling at the same velocity will have the exact same parrabolic arc regardless of barrel length. The only way you can get more distance from a barrel is if it imparts backspin on the ball thus counter acting the effects of gravity and flatening out the parabolic arc just like a golf ball. With a conventional barrel the only way to flaten the parabolic arc is to increase one of the variables namely velocity but then you will be shooting faster then is safe and you will hurt people. For somone who has such a weak grasp of the sport and the physics behind it you sure like to mouth off and tell everyone how dumb they are and how you are the captain of your high school team. You need to stop being so rude to people so i can stop being rude to you.

This is a quick tutorial on modifying the battery contacts on an evo hopper.  If you have any questions feel free to pm me.  I may update this post with additional evo info from time to time.

Take apart the evo leaving the internals in the left half.  This keeps the wires in their proper place.

Pull the battery contacts off the circut board and drill a small hole in each of them.  You need to make sure the holes line up with the center of the positive and negative contacts on a 9 volt battery.  This material is very hard and may require a few drill bits.  You can see how small the screw and nut are in the picture above. Then attach 2 positive and 2 negative battery contacts to each contact from the hopper and grind down the excess thread.

You need to bend the contacts on the hopper so they are relatively flat.

Put it back together and the batteries no longer rely on pressure from the battery door to maintain contact.  The batteries completely clear the door.

You can get the contacts at Radio shack or bust apart a 9 volt battery.  The contacts on the batteries seem to be higher quality.  The rivets need to be ground off on the under side of the contacts.

What is a good vertical expansion chamber for 98 custom

please post websites...:p

WKS_weiner wrote: There are two ways to polish the internals of a 98c. one way is to use steel wool... it cost about $2. you can find it at any hardware store. but make sure you get the right kind.... ...make sure you get #000. as shown in this pic. you don't wan't to messup your gun or anything. first step... take apart your gun. remove all the inernals. then clean up all the gun oil that is on the left and right receivers.. ...when you start polishing the receviers... ....the best place's to start are the, back and front bolt areas, in the area were the linkage arm moves Around, in the area were the sear moves around and any other place you feel like. just remember to polish the same areas on both recivers. also when you use steel wool to polish the 98c i may get alittle messy. so when your done wash off both recerviers with running water and dry throughly. make sure no left over steel wool is on both receivers. if there is this will cause major problems. when done washing and drying put gun back together and you are done.this will help your 98c in the long run... the other way is to use a dremel tool. i don't have one yet so if someone has one please post how to on this thread, thank you. using steel wool is the cheapest way to polish the internals but not the easiest way. also if you own an a-5 you can polish your internals also the same way you can a 98c.

Thanks for this tut! There is a noticable difference in the smoothness of my marker now.

hi rhino, i havea RT and Cyclone, in my 98c,with a flat line barrel, how can make the flat line more accuraci, because the ball goes every were and to to the enemy. thx

Barrels:

While I am not an expert on the subject I have found quite a good amount of info on certain barrels.

For woodsball the flatline is great.  It gets good distance and can hold quite a few people down.  The bad part is that any little bit of wind makes the ball fly off target.  Also if they are far enough away they can literally watch your paintballs flying and step out of the way.  Also the interior of the barrel is textured so if it starts to become smoothe you have to get the interior of the barrel refinished.  There are definetely pros and cons to this barrel and I would not recommend it for a sniper but heavy gunners pick one up and hold them down.

Asfar as accuracy I have had great results from the J&J barrel kit.  It has different bore size backs and you can getfronts in different lengths from 8"-16" (total length).  It is very accurate and I have heard the same about the Smart Parts Freak Kit. 

I used to have a GTA "sniper" ( and I use the term sniper very loosely) barrel.  All it really did was chop up paint and fly off target.  I wouldnt recommend this barrel at all personally.

i guess while im asking the above question, i guess i can throw in my own smarts on tippmann upgrades.

ive used alot of barrels, from the terminator, flatline, evil drivers, and hammerheads.

terminators are like any other cheap barrel...not good,

flatlines arent for me cuz i dont like hop-up (where the ball curves back up...Warsensors are good though, i just dont like the flatlines cuz when you need to fire fast, a ball will occasionally break cuz of the violence of the flatlines means of putting that curve on the ball)

if u want a medium cost but still plenty effective barrel, go for an evil driver barrel, the small bore size balls work the best with it.

if u want a great barrel, get a hammerhead, personally i hvae a hammerhead 14" torpedo series barrel, not only is it accurate 99% of the time, if a ball breaks, just shoot it three times and it has just cleaned itself out. its also reverse ported which makes it super quiet literally to the point your gun is making the sound and not the POP u hear out of other barrels, i got the second to last ball sizer and its worked for all the balls ive used.

hammerhead barrels are expensive, but incredible for those go-get-em paintballers

paintballer44 wrote: UPGRADING YOUR MARKER:  COMPLETE FAQ.       I am writing this to help the people so they won’t have to post as many questions, although there is nothing wrong with that. It will help keep the forum fast though. This FAQ will cover effective barrel length, the best ways to store paint, what upgrades you may want to consider, types of air lines, etc.   1-      BARREL LENGTH- For the most part, the length of your barrel does not affect accuracy. A paintball needs about 7.5-8 inches of barrel to stabilize, and to be truthful, after that, you are using more of your air source (co2, n2, or HPA). So, the longer the barrel, the A- more air you use and B- the more you have to turn up your velocity. This should help to eliminate questions asking “How long should I order my barrel?” Although, once again, I will say there is nothing wrong with asking questions, after you search. I will list some decent barrels for decent prices. (Note-I know I am not naming all of the barrels.)   J+J Ceramic Stiff! All American Tear Drop Progressive Abrades Quit Riot Nite Stik Stealth Big Shot Boom Stick Freak Kit Freak Junior Evil Pipe Flat line - A-5 Flat line - 98 Custom   BARRELS YOU WILL WANT TO STAY AWAY FROM   GTA Sniper Barrel Thunder Pig Barrels   2-      CARING FOR YOUR PAINT- A-Open package and rotate the bags. The paintballs are extremely close packed in the box. This may lead to a ball break. That is bad…   B-Keep them in a relatively warm place, with low humidity. C-Keep rotating the bags   D-DO NOT FREEZE YOUR PAINT (doing so will ruin your barrel and is dangerous to others)   E-Follow all other instructions on your box of paint.   3- Types of Air Hoses- Steel braided lines, Macro lines, and Micro lines.                    STEEL BRAIDED LINES- These are what you stock model 98, model 98 custom, A-5, Pro-Carbine and most other guns that aren’t upgraded come with. Not all guns come with steel braided. Some higher end guns come stock with macro line, described later. These hoses are made of steel, and look like a girls braided hair, hence the name. These are more durable, but come in sizes, and you cannot adjust the size. So if you buy a drop forward, regulator, or expansion chamber, you may need a new hose. These are pretty flexible, but cannot be bent too much, or at too much of an angle. These also only come in one color, silver.                 MACRO LINE HOSES- These are what some higher end guns come with. These are small, thick, heavy duty plastic air hoses that can be flexed quite easily. You can buy a kit with 3 feet of hose (3 colors) and 2 fittings (one 90* elbow, one straight fitting, or two 90* fittings.) for 10 dollars at http://www.countypaintball.com/ - www.countypaintball.com . I have found that they have the best deals for macro line. These types of line come in three colors (usually red, black, and blue) and are made by several companies. They can be cut to any length needed, and each color hose comes in one foot sections. Some people dislike them, saying that they are not strong. This is both true and false. Macro line is not as strong as Steel Braided hoses, but is more flexible and can be cut to any size. Macro line is still pretty durable though, so do not think it is “weak”.              MICRO LINE HOSES- These hoses are pretty rare to find these days. If you do find some, I suggest against buying it. They are just like Macro Line, but they are a lot smaller in diameter, thus restricting airflow. If you are still interested in this, you may want to look for some on http://www.ebay.com/ - www.ebay.com . I have not found them anywhere else.     4-      POTENTIAL UPGRADES-   R/T-Response Trigger- This is illegal at some tournaments but not all. This uses excess air from your marker to blow the trigger back into the ready position. This is still semi-auto, but many people think it is fully auto. It isn’t.   Drop Forward- These are used to disperse the weight out better on your gun. It brings you ASA (Air Source Adapter-Where you screw in your air tank) forward and down. These are also used a lot in speedball so you can tuck in closer to the bunkers.   Regulator (for HPA and N2—some work with co2)-These can set down the air going into the gun to make your gun more gas efficient.   Expansion Chamber- This is only for co2. It gives the co2 more time to expand into a gas-helps keep liquid co2 out of the gun.   Electric Hopper- A electric hopper spins a paddle for whenever you shoot to prevent chopping balls and having clog ups in your standard hopper. Good investment if you have the R/T.   Double Trigger- Some people prefer these over a single trigger. Its pretty self explanatory. Two slots for your fingers instead of one.   New Grips- Some people find the stock grips to be irritating. Most aftermarket grips are softer and are more comfortable.   New Barrel- The stock barrel on gun is most likely not very accurate, and not very good all around. See the section on barrels above.   Stocks/Remote lines – Woods ball players like these over speed ball players. The stock lets you rest the gun on your shoulder, and the remote line is a coiled hose that attaches to your ASA and co2 tank, letting you wear your co2 tank in a pocket. Remotes can work like expansion chambers too.   Scope- Scopes aren’t very good in paintball. Paintballs aren’t very accurate anyway. Scopes also give you tunnel vision, which will probably result in you getting flanked   Red Dot Site- These are better then scopes because they won’t give you tunnel vision and is easier to use then a scope. They have a red dot inside the site and you jut line that up with the target and the aimer on the site.   RVA (Rear Velocity adjuster) - If you buy this, it will allow you to increase or decrease your velocity with out having to use allen wrenches. It allows you to adjust velocity with your fingers. (NOTE-THIS WILL NOT WORK WITH A REAR COCKING SYSTEM)   Rear Cocking System – This allows you to cock your gun from the end. Some people prefer these over side cocking markers. Usually, a metal plate and screws will be provided to cover the hole where the side cocking knob used to be. (NOTE- WILL NOT WORK WITH ROCKET COCK OR RVA)   Rocket Cock- This is used to cover up the side cocking system, and has a ring on a pin that attaches to the side cocking knob. So it covers the side cocking hole but you still cock from the side. This is for looks, but some say it quiets the gun quit a bit. I do not know, I don’t have one. It also helps keep debris and paint/paint shells out of your marker.   HPA (High Pressure Air) or N2 (Nitrogen) - These are interchangeable as far as paintball is concerned. You can fill most tanks with either or. HPA/n2 is more consistent then C02, so you will get better shots and you won’t get velocity spikes. You also won’t have to worry about having liquid C02 in the gun. These come in three common types- Fiber Wrapped, Aluminum, and Steel. Those are in order of the lightest to the heaviest. You will want to buy a tank cover for most Fiber wrapped tanks because they scratch easily. How many shots will you get? You multiply the CI (Cubic Inches) by these numbers… 10xCI= Number of shots for a 3000 PSI tank 15xCI= Number of shots for a 4500 PSI tank 20xCI= Number of shots for a 5000 PSI tank   Foe more information on HPa/n2 systems, please check the MILKMANS sticky.   There are many more upgrades, but that is all that I can think of right now…and I’m tired… I know I didn’t list all the barrels either, but I will add on to both at a later time.   Accuracy   Accuracy depends on several things, and length of the barrel doesn’t effect accuracy. Here are some things that effect accuracy ·        Good, fresh, non deformed paint ·        Paintballs without paint spill on them ·        Clean paintballs ·        Velocity not too high-280 FPS is good ·        Clean barrel ·        No spurs in barrel ·        Good Paint To Barrel Bore match   Paintball sizes- http://www.ottersccustoms.com/paintc.html - http://www.ottersccustoms.com/paintc.html   Barrel Sizes- http://www.ottersccustoms.com/paintc.html - http://www.ottersccustoms.com/barrelc.html   Remember, have fun and be safe!

thanks ever so mutch love you for ever cuz mots will buy a crappy barrel cuz its cheeper and in the long run its not