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Cleaned Gun |
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Flatline Sniper 
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Joined: 12 January 2008 Status: Offline Points: 23 |
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 Topic: Cleaned GunPosted: 17 January 2008 at 4:11pm |
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C:\Documents and Settings\Matt\My Documents\My Pictures\Pictures\Pictures 003.jpg Heres a pic of my gun put together after cleaning off the oxidation (i wish i had some before pictures) Everything is smooth with a good sliding surface. Now all i need is a gun oil. Now I live in the woods literally and its snowing but i want to see if this thing will shoot now. Are there any types of household oil's or other oils i can use temporarily to test my gun? P.S I cant afford a new gun at the moment I want sumthing to shoot poeple with. High performance isnt an issue since i play mostly wood ball not speed ball. So im hoping this one works better. |
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Flatline Sniper
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Posted: 17 January 2008 at 4:13pm |
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Ok the link doesnt work sorry, but trust me its clean :)
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Two lines you should never cross... horizontal and vertical
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Flatline Sniper
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Posted: 17 January 2008 at 4:36pm |
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also how important is the ball detent and buffer o-ring? The only o-rings that came out my gun were the rear bolt and front bolt rings. And no ball detent.
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Two lines you should never cross... horizontal and vertical
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GI JOES SON
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Posted: 17 January 2008 at 4:57pm |
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both are very important. the ball detent keeps the ball from rolling down and prevents any form of double feeding. the buffer o ring is exactly that- acts as a buffer to prevent damage to the rear bolt. if there are any missing i would recommend picking up an oring kit , they run about 7 bucks i think.
as for oil, not sure. i wouldn't really recommend using a common oil without knowing how it is. edit-also, any time you have any other questions, it saves time and space to just edit the original post. also, you can use imageshack to host pictures, i think its imageshack.us but you can google to double check me on that if you don't mind, from all the other posts i am curious to see what the marker looks like and what state of being its in. what state are you that your in the woods? Edited by GI JOES SON - 17 January 2008 at 5:01pm |
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Flatline Sniper
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Posted: 17 January 2008 at 5:08pm |
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VA, i have a decent picture of it after it was cleaned but i cant figure out how to get it on here, im not very good with computers
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Two lines you should never cross... horizontal and vertical
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GI JOES SON
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Posted: 17 January 2008 at 5:17pm |
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go to imageshack.us and its pretty easy to do. i'm not all that great with computers either, but even i couldnt screw up imageshack
 VA, eh? Shorty (he's a mod) and a few other forumers are down in VA, shoot them a pm and ask about different stores or anything like that for good cheap supplies in the area. I'm not too sure of who exactly is in VA but if i find out i'll shoot you a pm |
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Flatline Sniper
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Posted: 17 January 2008 at 5:28pm |
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Here it is then. Just imagine the rear bolt and inside of the recievers white. |
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Two lines you should never cross... horizontal and vertical
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GI JOES SON
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Posted: 17 January 2008 at 5:31pm |
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could you give a direct link to the image so i can enlarge it?
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Flatline Sniper
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Posted: 17 January 2008 at 5:37pm |
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See if this works |
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Two lines you should never cross... horizontal and vertical
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GI JOES SON
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Posted: 17 January 2008 at 5:51pm |
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ah, much better picture, although its a shame that happened to the marker. when you reattatched the asa line into the tube, did you use loctite or teflon tape?
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Flatline Sniper
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Posted: 17 January 2008 at 5:54pm |
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that is wut the gun looks like right now, i dont have any tephlon, o-rings, or oil so i havent assembling anything. Im trying to figure out if i should take apart the valve to see if there is an air blockage in it causing my problems described in my "missfires" post
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Two lines you should never cross... horizontal and vertical
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GI JOES SON
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Posted: 17 January 2008 at 5:59pm |
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well, the markers already broken down so it can't hurt to take apart the valve, so longs you know what your doing. You don't want to end up with a mess on your hands. also, your going to want to remove the rest of that rust and stuff on the rear bolt, and it looks like theres some in the RVA and some other places. what generation 98c is that? it looks like the trigger guard is a part of the frame itself.
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Flatline Sniper
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Posted: 17 January 2008 at 6:03pm |
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its a model 98, the guard comes off its probly jus the rust that makes it look that way lol. Also does the rear bolt handle just pop out of it or it is tacked in there?
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Two lines you should never cross... horizontal and vertical
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GI JOES SON
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Posted: 17 January 2008 at 6:38pm |
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aye, sounds like a hell of a problem we've got. the cocking knob (aka. charging handle) does come out. if you don't mind me asking, how much experience do you have with the marker? if you remove the black end cap, the drive spring will come out, and after that the cocking knob will come out.
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Flatline Sniper
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Posted: 17 January 2008 at 6:41pm |
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i dont have much experience with the internals, other then basic matainence. Ive never gone this deep, like right now im struggling on tryin to figure out how to get the valve apart lol
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Two lines you should never cross... horizontal and vertical
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GI JOES SON
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Posted: 17 January 2008 at 6:58pm |
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do you have aim/yahoo/msn messenger? if you do i'm normally on there, and it would be easier to help you out through that instead of just posting back and forth if you want.
the valve is something unbeknownst to me; i've read how to take it apart but never had the need to do it. |
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Flatline Sniper
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Posted: 17 January 2008 at 7:02pm |
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yea i got aim, wuts ur s/n?
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Two lines you should never cross... horizontal and vertical
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GI JOES SON
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Posted: 17 January 2008 at 7:07pm |
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f22soa. right now it says im away but im really there, just tinkering with a procarbine i took apart
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Evil Elvis
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Posted: 18 January 2008 at 7:05pm |
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Wow ... Good luck. Might want to take it to a proshop and have it looked at. Doing a gun rebuild is something that can be overwelming to a new player.
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