Where to buy O-Rings

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   Ok, so I checked through the past topics/threads and found several discussing O-rings, but couldn't find one mentioning where to buy the white ones that fit inside a slide check. One thread said they should be the same size as the tank O-rings, but I tried that and they don't fit. The OD is the same, but the ID is just off enough that it leaks when I gas up. I found some standard rubber ones that fit, but they pretty much start leaking after any use as I assume the CO2 freezes them and makes them crack. I tried the local hardware store and all they have are standard rubber plumbing ones. Other than calling Rap4 where I got the remote, are there any ideas as to who else would sell them? Considering they break like crazy, I apparently need to stock up on them or remove the slide check if I can't get a good steady supply. 

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oldpbnoob Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Platinum Member Not old, Not noob. May be Dave's grandma Joined: 04 February 2008 Location: Yankee Stadium Status: Offline Points: 5676	Post Options Post Reply Quote oldpbnoob Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Where to buy O-Rings Posted: 06 May 2008 at 2:37pm
	Ok, so I checked through the past topics/threads and found several discussing O-rings, but couldn't find one mentioning where to buy the white ones that fit inside a slide check. One thread said they should be the same size as the tank O-rings, but I tried that and they don't fit. The OD is the same, but the ID is just off enough that it leaks when I gas up. I found some standard rubber ones that fit, but they pretty much start leaking after any use as I assume the CO2 freezes them and makes them crack. I tried the local hardware store and all they have are standard rubber plumbing ones. Other than calling Rap4 where I got the remote, are there any ideas as to who else would sell them? Considering they break like crazy, I apparently need to stock up on them or remove the slide check if I can't get a good steady supply.
	"When I grow up I want to marry a rich man and live in a condor next to the beach" -- My 7yr old daughter.

ShortyBP Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Moderator Group A G F Y Joined: 10 June 2002 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 5034	Post Options Post Reply Quote ShortyBP Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 06 May 2008 at 8:45pm
	Hmm... not sure you're gonna find anything that offers the same OD but different ID. O-ring thickness is fairly standard. You can get a thicker ring, but it will be significantly thicker... thereby rendering it unusable. All my years using a slidecheck, it's always been tank o-rings (size 015). Always Durometer-90 Urethane (soft buna/rubber rings failed quickly in my experience). And the trick was always use a LOT of oil, and work the oil in by sliding the check back and forth.

oldpbnoob Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Platinum Member Not old, Not noob. May be Dave's grandma Joined: 04 February 2008 Location: Yankee Stadium Status: Offline Points: 5676	Post Options Post Reply Quote oldpbnoob Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 06 May 2008 at 9:49pm
	Trust me, I tried several different ones out of the bag of tank O-rings I bought and none of them fit. They are all too loose and don't give any resistance at all on the slide check. I just got two replacements from the manufacturer and guess if I am unsuccessful finding them, I will have to buy some additional ones from them. I am wondering if there is a chance that it is metric and others are standard? I know the that screw onto the slide check are definitely metric.
	"When I grow up I want to marry a rich man and live in a condor next to the beach" -- My 7yr old daughter.

ShortyBP Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Moderator Group A G F Y Joined: 10 June 2002 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 5034	Post Options Post Reply Quote ShortyBP Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 06 May 2008 at 10:26pm
	Hmmm... I'm stumped. Do you know who actually made the slidecheck? I know you got it from RAP4... but does it say anywhere on it, who actually made it? I'm curious as to why it seems like it's different from all the slidechecks I've owned. I always thought they were all pretty much universal.

thejudge Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Gold Member Joined: 24 April 2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1658	Post Options Post Reply Quote thejudge Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 06 May 2008 at 11:29pm
	^ agreed. I thought they all used tank o rings.
	Stay low, run fast, and hope that paintball doesn't hit your...

oldpbnoob Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Platinum Member Not old, Not noob. May be Dave's grandma Joined: 04 February 2008 Location: Yankee Stadium Status: Offline Points: 5676	Post Options Post Reply Quote oldpbnoob Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 07 May 2008 at 10:16am
	Well today I finally got around to putting the O-rings in that Rap4 sent and the slide check started doing the same thing. It hisses as soon as I started turning the knob on the tank connection. I took it all back apart and looked at the O-rings and they ARE the same as tank O-rings. I put it back together and reoiled it. Turned it back on and it hissed for couple of seconds and than stopped. I guess maybe it needed time to build up enough pressure to force the O-ring to seal. I guess problem solved (until I get out into the field and it starts leaking on me). Have either of you noticed shootdown using a remote? When I was out over the weekend, I ran into a point where my marker would start 'farting" and I would have to recock it. I assumed the tank was empty and went back and swapped out the remote with someone elses and grabbed another tank. When I took the first tank up to refill, they said it was only 1/2 empty. Is this indicative of remotes or would a cracked O-ring cause this? Does it have anything to do with the little holes in the slide-check? Can you open these up for more pressure?
	"When I grow up I want to marry a rich man and live in a condor next to the beach" -- My 7yr old daughter.

thejudge Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Gold Member Joined: 24 April 2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1658	Post Options Post Reply Quote thejudge Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 07 May 2008 at 4:15pm
	Also make sure you use alot of oil in it... I have noticed that helps ALOT
	Stay low, run fast, and hope that paintball doesn't hit your...

ShortyBP Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Moderator Group A G F Y Joined: 10 June 2002 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 5034	Post Options Post Reply Quote ShortyBP Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 07 May 2008 at 10:47pm
	Well... it's been a long time since I've played remote, and I never had an issue with shootdown way back when, but my rate of fire wasn't all that high way back when either. Unless you can hear/feel a leak somewhere... the remote probably isn't to blame (unless you're trying to achieve max ROF using RT... in which case, perhaps you were indeed, starving the gun). There isn't any way I can think of to improve flow with a remote. What you got, is what you got. Before blaming the remote, I would try using the gun in tank-on-gun mode and see if the same farting-out problem exists. Could just be a worn drive spring, or other issue. And as Judge suggested... use a lot of oil on that slidecheck. With the air turned "off" on the remote tank adapter, I would put a drop on the exposed outer area of the slidecheck, work the slide back and forth, and spin... drop on the other side and repeat. And I'd do this multiple times during a 24hr game. I used more Hoppes No9 oil on the slidecheck, than I did for the entire gun itself.

oldpbnoob Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Platinum Member Not old, Not noob. May be Dave's grandma Joined: 04 February 2008 Location: Yankee Stadium Status: Offline Points: 5676	Post Options Post Reply Quote oldpbnoob Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 08 May 2008 at 10:00am
	Honestly, I haven't had much luck with the remote so far. I have only gotten a chance to use it in two days of play. The first day after about an hour or so I fell and apparently hit the slide check or something and CO2 started flowing out and in the process jacked up nearly all the O-rings in the remote. Rather than spending playing time trying to fix it, I simply took it off and played with the tank on. The second time, this past weekend, I was using rubber O-rings and they kept breaking and I am hoping this was causing the shootdown due to loss of some pressure. I hope. Again, I took off the remote and used someone elses and didnt seem to have issues for the rest of the day. I even went back to tank on the marker for the last hour or so. I had some farting with the tank on, but it was truly empty by that time. I am going to try it one more time, and if I still have issues, will try it without the slide check to see if it improves. I was just concerned with the size of the holes in the slide check as they are really pretty small. I just didnt know if you could make them larger to accomodate for air flow or if this would actually reduce pressure? Regarding the drive spring etc., it really shouldnt be an issue as the marker is only 6 months old and actually just had a new one put in a couple of months ago. It was done as part of trouble shooting when I was having issues with the worthless aftermarket powertube that I put in. Thanks for the input guys. I'll update after I use it next time. Edited by oldpbnoob - 08 May 2008 at 10:01am
	"When I grow up I want to marry a rich man and live in a condor next to the beach" -- My 7yr old daughter.