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PowerTube/Valve Removal |
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Jollyroger
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Joined: 08 February 2010 Location: Cheyenne, Wy Status: Offline Points: 73 |
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Topic: PowerTube/Valve RemovalPosted: 08 February 2010 at 3:20pm |
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I have a Tippmann 98 Custom Plainum Series Ultra basic. I nned to remove the valve from the power tube so i can replace the power tube with a new one. I have removed the gas line(easy) and removed the whole thing from the body. I removed the velocity screw. The manual says that the valve should slide right out of the power tube, but mine does not. I took and small screwdriver and put it in the end and tried to push it out and it wont buge. Is there something im doing wrong or missing? how do i remove the valve from the power tube. I dont wanna break the valve or power tube. any ideas?
Edited by Jollyroger - 09 February 2010 at 12:35pm |
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Mack
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Has no impulse! control Joined: 13 January 2004 Location: 2nd Circle Status: Offline Points: 9906 |
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Posted: 08 February 2010 at 5:58pm |
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Why do you need a new power tube? If it isn't broken there really is no reason to replace it.
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Jollyroger
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Joined: 08 February 2010 Location: Cheyenne, Wy Status: Offline Points: 73 |
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Posted: 09 February 2010 at 12:34pm |
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Because i have a new Rufus Dawg Front Bolt and comes with a groved power tube for that bolt. I need to install it
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thejudge
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Joined: 24 April 2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1658 |
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Posted: 10 February 2010 at 2:35am |
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in all honesty take the bolt and tube, put them back in the package, and return them. In tippmanns stock internals are best. Alot of times the so called upgrades can cause more drag and friction giving you loss of performance.
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evil_fingers
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Posted: 10 February 2010 at 2:43am |
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The Judge is telling the Truth.
Also, the only time one would need to replace the Power Tube, if the user is restricted to using Co2 only, because it is known that Co2 will weaken the intergrity of the Plastic Power Tube, thus cracking the Tube and start leaking and that a Metal Power Tube is the only Upgrade to combat the extreme cold of Co2. But if the user is using HPA (Compressed Air), there is no need to replace the Power Tube and the Front Bolt as well. |
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Do not steal....the government hates competition!
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oldpbnoob
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Not old, Not noob. May be Dave's grandma Joined: 04 February 2008 Location: Yankee Stadium Status: Offline Points: 5676 |
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Posted: 10 February 2010 at 9:52am |
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^^^ I would still avoid using metal power tubes. I had one in my 98 and it caused it to do bad things. As soon as I replaced it with the stock one, it worked fine. I actually think cold weather combined with the CO2 caused the PT to shrink enough to inhibit performance and caused the maker to go into uncontrollable full auto. As for CO2 causing PT's to become brittle, I have also seen 15 year old rentals still running strong with the orignal powertubes, so I wouldn't worry about it unless it's broke.
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"When I grow up I want to marry a rich man and live in a condor next to the beach" -- My 7yr old daughter.
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Jollyroger
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Joined: 08 February 2010 Location: Cheyenne, Wy Status: Offline Points: 73 |
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Posted: 16 February 2010 at 6:26pm |
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******UPDATE*******
I Figured out how to remove valve from power tube. Thank you all.
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98 Custom Platinum
Flatline Bipod Adjustible Stock Rufus Dawg Wicked Front Bolt/Power Tube Expansion Chamber M4 Style Handle/Sight Taco Speed Hopper 20 OZ CO2 Tank W/Neoprene Cover All Camoed |
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