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Alpha Black Elite - Cyclone - Power Tube Problems

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Tanori View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tanori Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Alpha Black Elite - Cyclone - Power Tube Problems
    Posted: 20 January 2014 at 9:18pm
Hello everyone, well this is my first post over here, so i will try to go straight to the problem.

Recently i bought that marker, everything was working great, then i got a remote line and still everything was working great.

After that i decided to get the cyclone system, i installed it and it worked (tried it at home), then this sunday i went toplay in a field.

The cyclone was not "cycling" at all, and the paintballs where flying quite slow, so i decided to adjust the velocity (more velocity), i really dont know how many turns i gave to the screw (and we don't have a chronograph), and still the cyclone was not working.

So i tough... well, lets go back to the gravity hopper for today.

When i got home, i decided to completely clean the marker, when i opened it... i found the powertube broken... i have no idea if this happened after i adjusted the velocity... or it happened before and its the reason the cyclone was not working, i decided on getting an aluminum powertube.... but id really like to get some information on what really happened and what can i do to avoid it....

thanks in advance
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tallen702 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 January 2014 at 9:13am
Yeah, a powertube break would prevent the proper amount of blow back pressure from getting to the cyclone AND mess with the velocity. Not really sure how you'd have done it, could have just been bad luck.

Try the aluminum one out and see if it cycles while dry firing (cyclone as well). The other thing to watch out for is when using a remote line. Some remotes actually constrict the flow if you open them all the way up. If this is the case, you can turn the remote valve to the full "open" position and then give it 1/4 turn back. That usually fixes the problem.
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Mack View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mack Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 January 2014 at 12:25pm
Another fix to the remote constriction problem is to remove the valve knob and put metal washers on the threaded piece to act as spacers so you don't screw it too far in.  If you do this it may take some experimentation to find the right number of washers.

You should also do the following:
  • If you're using CO2, remember that it becomes less useful the colder it gets
  • Check the output pressure of the tank if using compressed air
  • Test the marker with the tank on it to see if perhaps the remote line itself (not the valve on it) is restricting air flow
  • Try installing a stronger mainspring
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tanori Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 February 2014 at 10:27pm
Hello guys, sorry for the delay, and thanks for your replies.

I installed the aluminum powertube and it seemed to work great, but upon further inspection, it cycles like 9 out of 10 times....

The other problem i have now is that sometimes it wont recock...

A guy that works in a paintball field told me it wast because of the aluminum power tube, he said the solution was to loose alitle bit the power tube scews (the ones from the right side), and that seemes to work too but know i have lost 2 screws, i just bought another 2, but now from time to time it wont recock...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tallen702 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 February 2014 at 10:52am
Those two screws hold the valve in the proper position and prevent it from drifting, that's why it won't re-cock now. Get two new screws, use a little blue loctite on the threads and re-install them. Don't torque them down too much or you'll strip the threads of the valve body (it's aluminum after all) That will prevent the valve drift that can cause a whole new array of issues.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tanori Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 February 2014 at 2:03pm
Thanks again for your reply.

I got two new screws, bought this:

 http://www.amazon.com/LAPCO-Stainless-Steel-Screw-Series/dp/B00DNXDUZI/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393268404&sr=8-1-fkmr2&keywords=lapco+custom+98+screws

I fully screwed them in, and i got that cocking problem, should i use the loctite and loose them a bit?

Should i get different screws? if thats the case wich ones?




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mack Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 February 2014 at 8:38am
The screws should be fine.  Also check the mainspring for damage and check the o-ring around the front of the rear bolt.  (A damaged spring can bind and damage to the o-ring can cause sufficient air loss to interfere with proper recocking.)

Also make sure that the bolts holding the body halves together aren't over tightened.
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