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Trigger Reset???? |
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spudcrazy 
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Joined: 14 July 2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 363 |
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 Topic: Trigger Reset????Posted: 28 July 2005 at 11:37pm |
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Okay, I've looked all over for this and can't seem to find the answer. Or this old fart just doesn't understand. My trigger PULL is definitely light enough for me. I have no problem pulling (squeezing) the trigger fast. The problem lies with the reset, I guess I'm going too fast for the trigger. Here's what I'm talking about: After the trigger is squeezed the sear releases the bolt and then the bolt resets and the sear is now, back applying pressure on the trigger. But in my case (I'm guessing), I'm squeezing the trigger, again, before the bolt has completely reset and now the trigger spring is back up and is being compressed by the "now" reset sear. Follow so far??? So I have a hiccup and I have to re-release the trigger fully, so that the trigger spring can pop back down below the sear so that the gun can be fired, again. What gives...Or is this the nature of the mechanical trigger? If so, how are people getting 10+bps on the C98's without having an R/T or E-bolt. Thanks in advance for you suggestions... This probably needs to be in a more appropriate TOPIC, but I don't know how to move it without double posting... Edited by spudcrazy |
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Enos Shenk
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Posted: 28 July 2005 at 11:46pm |
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Thats the nature of the mechanical. If you pull the trigger and hold it
back, the sear pushes against that metal U-shaped piece pinned on the
back of the trigger. When you let off, the sear slides up on top of the
piece where it can be moved again.
Its what makes your gun semi instead of a runaway full auto. |
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spudcrazy
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Posted: 28 July 2005 at 11:48pm |
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Enos, that's what I figured. You can't stop physics...But what about these people who say they can get 10+ bps on the same setup? I take it, they're just BSing? I don't think the bolt can resest that fast...can it???
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skaterkevin24
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Posted: 29 July 2005 at 12:38am |
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yeah it can the only thing is most people put in a trigger stop which makes it so your trigger only goes as far back as the exact point in which it trips the sear releasing the rear bolt therefore you have less of a delay time and it also seems to me that you are pulling the trigger back to far when you fire which is why a trigger stop would greatly help you. There are several way in which to make one I personally just put a screw in the hole where a R/Ts piston would be and happend to be lucky enough to have one the exact size. There is one way where you take your old single finger trigger gaurd ( only do this if you have a double finger trigger) and cut it to the appropriate size
Edited by skaterkevin24 |
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RoboCop
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Aw man, my butt is rusted... Joined: 06 November 2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 5196 |
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Posted: 29 July 2005 at 1:11am |
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You must let the trigger go totally all the way back to reset. If you are trying to get high rates of fire and you happen not to let the trigger go back all the way to reset, you will have to let pressure off to get it to go back. The trigger was made where when it goes all the way back to its rest point, the trigger can't move any further. Your problem is that you are trying to get your gun to go faster when you won't let the gun reset(meaning you don't allow the trigger to go back) The mech system is almost the same as an e-grip. The e-grip uses the same sear and spring. All that is different is that you just press a button and the gun does the rest. With a mec, you must move/trip the sear. The guns are both capable of going the exact same speed depending on certain circumstances(polished internals,properly lubed) but it is just much easier with an electronic gun. |
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paintballer789
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Posted: 29 July 2005 at 3:00pm |
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there is a way to reduce that... cut a capri sun straw and put it on the pin that the sear rests on i havnt had a single double fire with my gun that has that. i can get 9 bps on my mech tippy |
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spudcrazy
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Posted: 29 July 2005 at 4:50pm |
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I take it, the idea is to raise the sear, so that the trigger doesn't have as far down to go, to resest??? Interesting... |
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Commander Cool
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Posted: 29 July 2005 at 6:27pm |
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if thats news to you, you might want to search for trigger mods on the forum, theres plenty out there. all you really need is a pre and post trigger stop to eliminate unnecesary slop from the trigger's travel. |
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pooperscooper
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Posted: 29 July 2005 at 7:33pm |
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this gave me an idea...
what if u replaced the spring on the back of the trigger that pushes the metal thing back with a stronger spring? woudn't that make the trigger reset with more force but not affect trigger pull... u could also use a heavier drive spring with the velocity turned down to make an rt like effect. think this will work? |
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Chuck Norris doesnt read books, he stares them down untill he gets the information he wants.
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RoboCop
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Posted: 29 July 2005 at 10:21pm |
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it would just get harder to pull, not make an r/t effect.
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Enos Shenk
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Posted: 29 July 2005 at 10:50pm |
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You read his question wrong. Yes, putting a stronger spring in the metal piece on the back of the trigger will add a bit more snap to the trigger. |
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RoboCop
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Posted: 30 July 2005 at 2:01am |
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Actually a stronger spring in that little area behind the trigger would make the trigger get back to its reset point faster with a little more force, but not enough to make an r/t effect. Also that spring will make no effect whatsoever on tripping the sear, because the trigger pushes up on the sear. It wouldn't really work effectively enough to make the r/t effect because your fingers are stronger than the force of the bolt. So switching that spring wouldn't really help at all. The best way to get the r/t effect is to get an r/t. |
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The Guy
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Posted: 30 July 2005 at 4:09am |
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take out your trigger spring. The sear will reset the trigger. Your
just not letting off it enough. Cause we are hitting upwards of 11 on
the store gun. And tis mech.
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Lightningbolt
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Posted: 30 July 2005 at 9:20am |
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Here's your answer. Open up your Palmer for more air pressure or remove it. Problem greatly reduced or solved A vertically stored tank, coiled remote and a gas thru stock is great for liquid removal and makes a solid and very tight playing gun.
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The Guy
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Posted: 30 July 2005 at 9:27am |
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yes as I have told many newbs that come into my store. A
stabilizer is a regulator capable of handling liquid CO2, its not a
solution to liquid.
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spudcrazy
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Posted: 30 July 2005 at 1:15pm |
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What will taking out the trigger spring do? Doesn't the trigger spring help to reset the trigger, by applying an upward force, thus pushing the trigger slider down to clear the sear? BTW, I got the Palmer, NOT to take care of the liquid, but to regulate the gas flow for more efficiency in gas usage.... Edited by spudcrazy |
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Lightningbolt
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Posted: 30 July 2005 at 2:25pm |
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A stock 98 needs all of the output pressure a c02 tank can put out at high rates of fire to function at it's best. What psi are you running? |
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spudcrazy
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Posted: 30 July 2005 at 4:31pm |
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Don't know, I don't have a gauge. I should point out, I haven't even chronoed the gun yet, either. |
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RoboCop
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Posted: 30 July 2005 at 11:38pm |
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I have my gun around 400-500 psi It shoots great with high velocity,
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Lightningbolt
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Posted: 31 July 2005 at 9:25am |
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When my 98 was new I could regulate the pressure way down with a Palmer too.
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paintballer789 wrote:
