Homebrew Response Trigger Guide with pics

Ok guys, I promised you.  A while ago I posted a few pics of an RT I made and was making modifications to to improve.  I have finally found a winning combination of ease of construction and availability of parts. Remember now, I am not responsible for any modifications done to your gun if they take a turn for the worst, but I take full responsibility for all your success :D Now the part that you have been waiting for:

What you will need:

• Short length of 1/2" copper pipe and 2 matching end caps.
• Small irrigation fittings, mainly 2 elbows and 1 T fitting.
• 1 foot of matching vinyl tubing
• 1-1/4" Aluminum threaded post with screw
• A squeegie with a rubber end like the one shown above.  You can find this in a store or maybe you ccan buy it from someone.  Remember to bring a short length of copper pipe to ensure it is just about the right size for it.  Also note that you will be putting the short screw from the post inside the recess on it, thereby increasing its diameter slightly.  If you find the correct sized one, it should fit perfectly inside the copper pipe and create a nearly airtight seal.
• Epoxy: I used JB Weld for the epoxying and am quite happy with the results
• #4-40 screw and a matching tap if you want.
• Very light weight coil spring with a diameter large enough to take up most of the copper tube. I took mine out of a very large button from my dad's shop.  It is about 3/4" long when extended and about 3/8" across.  This replaces the stock trigger reset spring with a much lighter pull and keeps the plunger against the trigger at all times.
• Electrical or duct tape
  
• Drill with various sized bits.
• Various tools

Alright, here is what you will need to do:

1. First, dis-assemble the gun- duh.  On the right side reciever, right above the grip, you will see a depressed circle.  Punch it out with a screwdriver or whatever.
2. On the Power Tube, there is a small round cylinder thing sticking out that slides into the right reciever.  You will need to cut this off.  Now, find a drill bit that is roughly the same diameter as the small fittings you have.  Find the center of post you just cut off of the power tube and drill it out enough to fit a good bit of the fitting in there.  It is okay if a little metal comes out with the plastic, just be sure to clean the shavings out before re-installing it into the gun.
3. Re-attach the power tube to the reciever. Be careful with the bolts on the side of the gun, it is easy to strip out the threads.  Now, in the new hole you have on the side of the gun that goes into the power tube, slide an elbow fitting and test its fit.  You should have it in enough to put a piece of tubing around it and have it right up against the side of the reciever.  Mix a small amount of epoxy and glue the fitting to the power tube.  *note: in order to take the power tube back off (usually never necessary) you will need to break the epoxy bond on the fitting and re-apply epoxy to the fitting to attach it again.* Be sure that none of the epoxy got inside the fitting, blow in it and make sure it is not restricted. 
   
4. Next, in the hole you punched on the side of the right reciever, put in the T fitting so that you have one end inline with the fitting on the power tube and the other end pointing straight back.  On the end that fits straight back, you will need to thread your #4-40 screw into it.  This is to adjust the amount of air going into the system and will also act as a shutoff for tourney games to turn the system off. 
   
5. On the T part that goes into a reciever, put on a piece of tubing about 3 inches long and ram it into the hole.  This should hold it in place well. 
   
6. After the epoxy on the power tube fitting is completely hardened, run a piece of tubing from the elbow fitting to the T fitting. Now the external part of the mod should be done.
   
7. Anyways, now on to the piston. Cut a segment of copper so that when both endcaps are put on it, there is about a 1/8" gap between them.  The length of the cylinder is crucial to the effeciency of the piston because the amount of volume in the chamber needs to be very small when the piston is all the way in.  That all comes later though. 
   
8. Now, the construction of the plunger begins.  This is the trickiest part of the mod to get right.  Basically, the piston has to create a nearly airtight seal with the copper pipe, but still be able to move freely back and forth.  What you need to do is take off the screw part of the aluminum post.  Mix some epoxy and insert the screw into the recessed area of the rubber thingy. Essentially, you should be able to put the other part of the post into the other end of the rubber thing and have a sturdy plunger.  The friction on the post when you screw it in should allow for adjustment of the length of the entire plunger without it being able to unscrew itself.  
   
9. Next, you will need to drill holes on both endcaps to allow for the fitting and the plunger to go in.  For the fitting side, trim off the barbed part of the fitting and get a drill bit that is the same size of the narrow part of the fitting you just modified.  Drill it out and epoxy the fitting into it.  Make sure this is a very sturdy piece.  On the piece where the plunger will go through, make the drill bit a fair bit larger than the aluminum stud.  Air will need to be able to escape out the other end, otherwise the system wont work properly.  Dont worry, when both receivers are put together, they will guide the plunger.  If the post stud doesnt quite fit between the two recievers, you can take a dremel with a grinding thing or a round file or some sandpaper to remove some material to get it sliding freely. 
   
10. Right now, you should have 2 endcaps, one with a fitting on it, a short piece of copper pipe, and a plunger assembly.  First, epoxy the endcap with the fitting to the copper pipe.  Then take the plunger assembly apart and re-assemble it so that the endcap with the hole in it is inside the two ends.  When the epoxy on everything is dry, put a lot of gun oil inside the tube and on the plunger, drop the spring in there if you have it, and then put the rubbery end inside the copper pipe piece and slide the other endcap onto it.  To keep it together, use a piece of duct tape or electrical tape and wrap it around the entire unit once or twice.  This will also keep the piston secured between the two recievers. 
    
11. You're almost done!  Now you have a piston.  To test it, put your finger on the hole going into it and move the piston.  Move the plunger in and out: you should feel a good bit of resistance to motion due to the buildup of air pressure in the cylinder.  Take your finger off and it should slide easily.  If it does all this well, then you have a good RT in the works!
12. Put the piston assembly on the right reciever and cut the tube coming in to the proper length. You may have to find something to keep the tube from kinking around the bend, you can also file it out so it curves instead of making a right angle where it turns. Connect the tube to the piston and put the piston inside the reciever.  Put the two sides together and be sure the piston slides freely still.  If the two ends pinch the plunger, you will need to file these out some or sand them or whatever.
13. Re-assemble your gun.
    
14. Eat something and take a nap, you have had a good day's work.
    

If you have any specific questions about the mod, PLEASE DO NOT PM THEM TO ME!!! Put them on the thread so everyone can read your problem and have me answer it. This will help everyone out.  I'll post more pics of the unit when I can upload them better.  I'll also post a video of the unit in action sometime when I get some more CO2.  Yep, I drained all 3 tanks already again:D

Thanks again for reading.


Edited by killernoodle

Pics:

BTW, this may sound noobish, but how does the RT work? what does it do that makes it so great.....please tell in noobish form

 

PS this should really be a sticky methinks

Edited by SiLeNt-ScOpE

An RT works by using excess gas from the power tube to push a piston and reset the trigger, allowing for fully automatic fire.

When the gun is fired, the power tube is filled with compressed CO2 to launch the paintball.  If you connect a piston to the power tube and fire the gun, the piston will rapidly expand. Attach the piston to the trigger and it will reset the trigger almost instantaneously on every shot. 

Mad props to you dude. That's really original how much did it cost to buy all the parts?

vary nice couple questions how long is the 1/2 inch piping you put in yours? and will it work in an A-5? lets see pics of the inside of yours?

Edited by cadet_sergeant

I'd need to take the entire system apart to find out how long the tube is, but basically with the two copper endpipes on there there is only about 1/8" of the copper tube visible between them.  I'll try to do a step by step photo thing when (or if) I do my brother's gun.  The stuff costs around $8 if you already have a piece of 1/2" copper pipe laying around like I did, and I found the squeegie on the field :D

Also, I dont have an A-5 so I dont know what I'd need to do to make it work. I'd probably have to buy some different fittings to match the system already on the A-5.


Edited by killernoodle

Is that a scope on ur gun?

lol dude, i was broadcasting your awsome invention in the marker gallery to show your mod (all credit going to you of course) and my other account got guested....so, i had to make silent scope 2.0  just most people didnt really come into here and so i posted the link, and lots of people said thanx, but some nimrods decided against me and i got banned, so in saying this, i will probably get banned again.....whish is just dumb. But mad props to you man, i think that the most amazing paintball mod i have ever seen.

EDIT: man if you do make the photo instructions please email them to me
bionicle911@hotmail.com

Edited by Silent-Scope2

Dont bust silent scope :D  he is the only one that has ever worshipped me :D

Yep, I'm now posting a lot model98.net, so that is a new home for my mods.