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Propane Semi-auto <--real idea

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Monk View Drop Down
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    Posted: 30 July 2006 at 8:58pm
So I got to deciding that I want to make a propane semi-auto.

I went through a few ideas in my head and decided on an automag blow forward idea.



Its electro with no sear. The board uses a solenoid valve to put the propane/air mix into the firing chamber after each shot. And will have a prime button for the first shot. The trigger fires and makes a spark, the propane ignites and pushes the bolt foward and then the gas is expelled which fires the ball. The spring returns the bolt the the starting position and the solenoid adds propane to the chamber once again.

Timing will be involved to get the solenoid to activate after the bolt comes back, but after that you should be able to fire constantly.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pattison Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 July 2006 at 9:06pm
this is the first coherent and logical c3 semi idea i have ever seen.

edit: but i think you really need a way to flush the chamber, dumping more mixture into the old spent gas won't work reliably

Edited by pattison - 30 July 2006 at 9:08pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Monk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 July 2006 at 9:11pm
Originally posted by pattison pattison wrote:

this is the first coherent and logical c3 semi idea i have ever seen.

edit: but i think you really need a way to flush the chamber, dumping more mixture into the old spent gas won't work reliably


Very true. I might be able to add some sort of QEV on the side of the chamber, when the bolt comes back it might push enough old gas out. I might have to make the bolt bigger in the back to push even more gas out.


Edited by Monk - 30 July 2006 at 9:14pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote barn_user Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 July 2006 at 11:35pm
Your going to also need a way to engineer a reliable cooling system. With all that combustion the gun will start to heat up from the faster shooting.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Monk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 July 2006 at 12:49am
Ill worry about that after I actually get it working. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Monk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 July 2006 at 1:27am
Ok, I have a second reincarnation.


This one has an exaust "squeegy" that will follow the bolt while its one way flaps are open. Then as the bolt pushes the squeegy back the flaps close and push the exaust out the back.

Im not real sure if the spring will have enough time to engage the squeegy and push it to the front of the chamber before the bolt pushes it back. And sadly I forget my physics lessons.

If not, I successfully made a very compact C3.


Edited by Monk - 31 July 2006 at 1:43am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pattison Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 July 2006 at 1:56am
Originally posted by Monk Monk wrote:





Ok, I have a second reincarnation.<span style="text-decoration: underline;"></span>This one has an exaust "squeegy" that will follow the bolt while its one way flaps are open. Then as the bolt pushes the squeegy back the flaps close and push the exaust out the back.Im not real sure if the spring will have enough time to engage the squeegy and push it to the front of the chamber before the bolt pushes it back. And sadly I forget my physics lessons.If not, I successfully made a very compact C3.


One bolt delay mechanism coming right up...

Edit:Might take a sec to download, it is hosted on my computer in Germany.

Edited by pattison - 31 July 2006 at 1:59am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Monk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 July 2006 at 2:18am
I see where you're going with that.

Ill put my spin on it.



I seriously feel very confindent that this idea will work.

I think it would be possible to do this with an ebolt and an automag.


Edited by Monk - 31 July 2006 at 2:24am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pattison Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 July 2006 at 2:33am
there is not really a need for the solenoid valve if you can copy the operation of the c3, where the plunger releases a shot of propane at the end of the --> stroke, and sucks in air for the correct mixture on the <-- stroke. just like the standard c3.
i would love to see a c3 chamber duck taped to an automag body, that would be the hottest marker ever.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Monk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 July 2006 at 2:56am
You got me thinking about the solenoid, and it would be abit more complicated than it needs to be.

So I went back to the drawing boards. and this is what I got so far.

When the bolt goes back, it will go alittle farther than needed, thus pushing in a valve to open the propane for a fraction of a second. Also note that none of these parts are to the scale of the others, so there is alot of imagination involved.



Bam, it took two brilliant minds, and ms paint. But we finaly have a design for a propane semi-auto.




Edited by Monk - 31 July 2006 at 12:32pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote barn_user Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 July 2006 at 9:11am
I do beleive you have something pretty good here. You should really think about taking this to the next level and seeing if you can find a gun company to look at and maybe even produce it. If you make millions, just remember me.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Enos Shenk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 July 2006 at 1:48pm
The big problem is a safety system for the propane mixture. In the C3, the fuel injector valve is pushed in at the end of the pump stroke, but the real clever part is the valve fills itself up with regulated propane, meaning the propane inside the valve is a fixed volume at a fixed pressure. If the user double pumps the gun, since the pressure of the propane inside the valve is the same as the pressure being fed from the regulator, no more propane is added to the system.

Also, as a machinist, quite a few parts in your design would be very difficult to cut.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TEHGANGSTER Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 July 2006 at 2:35pm
sell it to tippmann......but oh yeah, enos just said no, so its entirely possible it wont work

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote __sneaky__ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 July 2006 at 3:55pm

Just like everyother auto/semi auto propane idea, this wont work, it would get waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay to from the small exsplotions goin on inside your marker.

So ya, you could do it, and ya you can also seriously burn yourself and melt your own paintballs...

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Styro Folme Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 July 2006 at 4:56pm

seems like it might work...  but i think it's kinda a lost cause...

but don't let me stop you.

what i would like to see though, a one-handed c-3....  with a lever action style pump...  that wouldn't be that hard to do though...

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Monk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 August 2006 at 12:38am
Originally posted by __sneaky__ __sneaky__ wrote:

Just like everyother auto/semi auto propane idea, this wont work, it would get waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay to from the small exsplotions goin on inside your marker.

So ya, you could do it, and ya you can also seriously burn yourself and melt your own paintballs...



Its that kind of mind set that gets nothing done. I already have a cooling system in mind, so dont count me out yet.

I have been thinking about the set pressure.



That is my latest design. The bolt is what mixes the air and propane, and pushes it into the chamber on the way back to the cocked position.

I plan on using the same reg as the C3.

I also redesigned the bolt latch so that it could be easy to make. This one will be one unit that can be screwed into the chamber.

As far as heat is conserned, I found a site that sells a gel that allows virtually no heat through. So I would make a detachable shroud around the body of the gun that holds this gel.

EDIT: and again the picture is alittle off, it will be longer and the latch/squeegy placement will need to be refined. And I will do such on paper later. Im just looking for some helpful ideas as far as mechanics and pressures are concerned. Thanks.


Edited by Monk - 01 August 2006 at 1:46am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pattison Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 August 2006 at 2:17am
i can design a much simpler propane input valve, i'll try to draw it up at lunch

to all the naysayers: no, i don't honestly expect to make one of these, if it were made the rof would be around 2 bps, and it would look like a raygun because the combustion chamber would be about 100mm diameter. whether or not this will ever exist is not the point of this thread.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Monk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 August 2006 at 2:38pm
So I got to looking at the C3. I took the design of it, and added the blow forward bolt. I also got rid of the cocking handle and replaced it with a spring.

The bolt should move forward after the shot is taken, then on the way back pull the cocking rod back with it, then the rod will spring forward to it original position. Then it all starts again. Note: I havent established a way for the bolt to move the rod.



I mostly did this because the last design didnt have a velocity adjuster.

Oh snap, just got a new idea. One of my earliest designs for a paintball gun used a valve based on the rotary engine. So I thought well why not base a propane marker on the rotary engine.

Here is a simple idea that made. The compression stage should increase the efficiency of the marker.




Edited by Monk - 01 August 2006 at 5:25pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pattison Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 August 2006 at 6:17pm
a wankel engine inside a paintball gun... "screw 20 bps, i shoot at 12000 rpm"
i broke out the autocad on this one

the main spring is missing from the image, imagine it pulling the bolt straight backwards, and it will make more sense. also, most the parts are designed machine shop friendly, if not drill press friendly on this one
problems:
combustion chamber will have to be manufactured
the animation is pretty horrible, i'll put the main spring in tomorrow
also, the chamber is only 14 cubic inches, have no idea what it needs to be, but a 2 inch stroke is plenty, so the chamber will only change in diameter which will look silly on a gun
now i just need a r and d budget
edit: damn that picture is big.

Edited by pattison - 02 August 2006 at 7:08pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Monk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 August 2006 at 7:49pm
Im having a hard time following where the exaust goes on that diagram.
EDIT: It is pushed out the barrel? Very good design. I think we need to make one. I have a question though.
How are your one way flap things designed? I have one design, it involves a bearing and a spring.

I continued research on the "Wankel gun". So far this is what Ive got.



There is a soleniod that stops the movement of the rotary piston at the compression stage. When the trigger is pressed, the solenoid pulls down and the ignition fires. The solenoid has the job of pulling the engine stop pin and putting propane into the intake.
However I do believe this gun will weigh too much. Just looking at different ideas to get the juices flowing.


Edited by Monk - 01 August 2006 at 8:13pm
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