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Truck problem. |
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agentwhale007
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Topic: Truck problem.Posted: 16 February 2009 at 11:47pm |
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So, I have Googled this a bit, but I figured I would try here and see what the automotive minds have to say.
My truck, a 2000 Ford Ranger with a manual transmission, is having the following problems: About a month ago, it began making a scratching noise whenever I had the clutch pressed down and the shifter was in first while at idle. Once I got into about second gear, the sound stopped. The sound would also stop if I put the shifter in neutral and took my foot off the clutch. This happened in cold weather, and seemed to stop once it warmed up. I thought it had to do with the cold, but now it seems I might have been wrong. I recently returned from a trip to Tallahassee, about 500 miles round-trip. Once returning, as in once I got off the Interstate and got back down to shifting speeds, it got REALLY hard to get into first gear when I am stopped. By that, I mean I have to muscle the shifter stick into position. Something under the truck makes a loud THUNK once I finally muscle the shifter into gear, followed by a scratching/screeching noise that will continue until I get to about 35 miles per hour or third gear, depending on which comes first. After third, the gears shift clean. Also, if I hit a speedbump or pothole, the screeching sound will return temporarily. On top of all that, once I muscle the shifter stick into place, it has a tendency to shimmy and shake a lot. Any guesses? Edited by agentwhale007 - 16 February 2009 at 11:50pm |
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.636
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Posted: 16 February 2009 at 11:56pm |
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Screeching sound when you put the clutch down could be the release bearing. But it goes away in different gears so it might not be.
Hard to get into first could be a worn synchro since they are just thin brass spacers that slow the next gear down. Go take it to a mechanic and ask him to have a listen to the noises. |
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Eville
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Posted: 16 February 2009 at 11:59pm |
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did you check the flux-capacitor? honestly though, no idea. My extremely amateur guess is that your synchros may be going bad. probably something with the clutch as well. most likely the capacitor though. I would start there first.
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chronic future
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Posted: 17 February 2009 at 12:00am |
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Sounds like parts of the clutch are starting to go, maybe a throw out bearing or pressure plate? Either way it sounds like its going to be a pain to repair as you need to drop the transmission to get at the clutch assembly. |
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ctchofday
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Posted: 17 February 2009 at 12:27am |
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im gonna go with .636 and say the synchronizers may be going bad, best to have a mechanic check it out to make sure.
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Xbl:PhantomReign97
'99 Snpr II, ½d Karni, E-Orracle, 2k4 Spstk, 2k5 Prstk, PMR SE, A5, 98 |
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High Voltage
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Posted: 17 February 2009 at 12:30am |
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Sorry I don't have any advice as I know very little about vehicles. Does anyone still have that MS Paint drawing of whale's truck that newport made back in the day?
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JohnnyCanuck
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Posted: 17 February 2009 at 1:37am |
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it's not clutch/throw out bearing or pressure plate, or you'd notice it in every gear, I think 636 is right, the synchro is mashed. You could drain the oil and I'm guessing you'll see lots of lovely filings in the oil but if you are on a budget, it's not the end of the world, I drove my jeep for 3 years with 1st gear synchro's shot, double clutching helps, hitting it at the right revs, you'll get a feel for it and it pops right in.
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BearClaw
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Posted: 17 February 2009 at 6:30pm |
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Sounds like ya sycros are toasted. I AM a mechanic but without feeling/hearing the damage making a guess is pretty hard.
IF ya match the rpms perfect (like shifting without a clutch you should be ok). But bassically it means you need a trans rebuild. Good news is a 5 speed is bone simple to work with and you could fesibly get another 5 speed from a scrapers for cheap and do a quick swap. |
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IMPULS3.
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Posted: 17 February 2009 at 6:36pm |
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It's a ford. ( How has anyone not said this yet)
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TinMan
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Posted: 17 February 2009 at 7:09pm |
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From your description I'm caught between two diagnosis.
I'll post the two symptoms and you can decide which is the best
fit, though they both end up in the same labour charges.
(1) Clutch release bearing. (throw out bearing)
Can hiss or sqeal at an idle with the clutch out.
Can cause difficulty moving shifter from neutral to 1st/reverse
Gets worse or louder as you depress clutch pedal
Replace clutch and release bearing.
(2)Crankshaft pilot bearing
Pilot bearings can squeal quite loudly when clutch is depressed
and transmission is in 1st at a stop.
Will cause difficulty engaging gears.
Pilot bearings always go quiet once the clutch pedal is released
Replace pilot bearing
The release bearing (throw out bearing) almost always damages the
fingers of the pressure plate, that's why a new clutch is usually required.
My guess is you just need a clutch, pressure plate, and release bearing.
I'm a licenced mechanic with too many years specializing in transmissions
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jmac3
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Posted: 17 February 2009 at 7:11pm |
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Because it is dumb. |
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Que pasa?
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.636
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Posted: 17 February 2009 at 7:31pm |
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Imho best thing to do right now whale is listen. Have somone push the clutch down while you listen under the vehicle and tell us if its coming from the Transmission its self or the bell housing that connects the tranny to the engine.
If its inside the bell housing then its going to be a throw out bearing, pressure plate or as mentioned above the pilot bearing. throw out bearings make an awful noise when they let go. I blew mine up in december and it made one hell of a noise. Its in about 19 peices on my garage wall right now. If its coming from the transmission then you know its something serious and will need to drop some money into it. |
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tallen702
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Posted: 17 February 2009 at 8:53pm |
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Here's a thought, if it's a synchro going bad, would double-clutching eliminate the issue as it would give the gears a chance to synchronize without the need of the synchro itself?
Although, looking at tin-man's post, it may be the pilot bearing on the crankshaft. The symptoms fit the best with that one. Oh, and if the pilot bearing on the shaft goes, you wind up needing a whole new tranny. Happened on my subie back in the day. Mind you, the subie still ran and shifted.... weird I know... |
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Rambino
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Posted: 17 February 2009 at 9:00pm |
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I suddenly realized that for once we have an advice-requested post on a subject where T&O might actually be a decent place to get help.
Shocking.
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.636
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Posted: 17 February 2009 at 10:07pm |
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Not necessarily, all depends on how the input shaft looks. if its not worn out of specs he can get away with a new pilot bearing. if the shaft its worn quite a bit there is a possibility of getting a over sized bearing or a new input shaft for the trans. And I cant see how a thrashed pilot bearing would = needing a new tranny. Sounds a little hokey Edited by .636 - 17 February 2009 at 10:14pm |
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tallen702
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Posted: 18 February 2009 at 1:08am |
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When my old car was built, some idiot packed the pilot bearing for the propeller (crank) shaft in grease rather than tranny fluid. It seized up and broke the shaft and stripped all of 3rd gear's teeth right off. They had to replace the whole tranny after that one. It was only 1k into the warranty as well, so it was free in my case. |
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procarbinefreak
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Posted: 18 February 2009 at 1:12am |
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lol tranny
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JohnnyCanuck
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Posted: 18 February 2009 at 1:24am |
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clutch and pressure plate either work or they don't work, I stand by my original assessment; synchros. the only time I've seen clutches work sporadically is when they are hydraulic assist and the fluid is low.
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agentwhale007
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Posted: 18 February 2009 at 9:20am |
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I think this synchros deal sounds like the best bet, because after reading what synchros do, I realized that when muscling the shifter into place, it often will make the grinding "too fast to be in this gear" noise, even when idling.
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brihard
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Posted: 18 February 2009 at 9:25am |
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We speed-holed a dump truck today. *That* is a truck problem.
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