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Tippmann Pro Lite |
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Soybean 
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Joined: 21 August 2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 3 |
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 Topic: Tippmann Pro LitePosted: 21 August 2005 at 6:41pm |
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My son just bought a tippmann Pro Lite on E-bay. It worked fine
for the first 100 balls. Now it does not recock. He has to
manuelly recock it to shoot. It is not low on C02. Does
anybody have any ideas? We took it apart and used a little
WD-40. That did not help. thanks
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The Guy
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Soup Can Guy Joined: 18 March 2004 Status: Offline Points: 6666 |
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Posted: 21 August 2005 at 6:55pm |
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well open it up again and clean out all the WD-40, and replace all the or-ings you put it on. WD-40 breaks down rubber.
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Soybean
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Joined: 21 August 2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 3 |
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Posted: 21 August 2005 at 7:11pm |
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We did not put any WD-40 on any O-rings, just in the trigger
mechanism. We couldn't find where to get the bolt out to check
the O-rings. Are bad O-rings a likely problem? Thanks for
the WD-40 info.
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whack-a-mole
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Member of the "I Have No Life Club" Joined: 19 August 2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 2872 |
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Posted: 21 August 2005 at 9:05pm |
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ah, WD-40! don't use that get some hopps gun oil. Check your o-rings. Yes, o-rings could be the problem. You could try completly cleaning it and then oiling it?
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NASA and the Americans spent millions of dollars and hundreds of hours to develop a pen that would write in space.....The Russians used a pencil.
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clownshooter
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Checking your underwear drawer Joined: 15 June 2002 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 3371 |
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Posted: 28 August 2005 at 2:09pm |
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You have to remove the rear sight by removing the two (2) allen screws that hold it in place. Turn the Pro-Lite upside down and the linkage rod will fall out (It connects the front and rear bolts). Then remove (unscrew) the end cap on the receiver and remove the rubber buffer washer, drive spring, and drive spring guide (it looks like a nail). Slide the rear bolt back until the cocking knob lines up with the circular hole at the end of the slot the knob travels in. Pull the cocking knob out through the circular hole. You should then be able to slide the rear bolt out the back of the receiver. Reverse procedure for re-assembly.
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Cormier
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Joined: 06 August 2005 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 190 |
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Posted: 29 August 2005 at 4:32pm |
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low on c02? lol
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ya ever noticed in a beer commercial no one ever drinks a beer?
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bluemunky42
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Posted: 31 August 2005 at 5:39pm |
read the post before you reply. he clearly stated he is not low on co2. |
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lalaland
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Posted: 06 September 2005 at 7:40am |
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I bought an A5 from my mate last year to replace my C98 and he'd used WD40 and claimed it was only on the external parts.
The marker had problems and wouldn't work properly. I took it to a Tippmann store (the only one in the UK) and had them look at it. They told me that someone had put WD40 inside it or it had worked its way inside and knackered my O rings. I bought an o ring kit and they did a service on it for me. Worked good as new after that, but the one thing I learnt from that was do not use WD40 on any part of your marker, it will find it's way inside and cause problems. I would suspect that's your problem based on you mentioning the WD40 above. |
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Soybean
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Posted: 07 September 2005 at 8:03pm |
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thanks a lot to all who replyed I got my gun working again
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buffaloman
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Posted: 05 June 2006 at 1:49pm |
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does anyone have an exploded view of a Pro-Lite please contact me at buffaloman90@hotmail.com and I can give you a fax # Been looking for one for a couple weeks and no luck |
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Snake6
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Posted: 05 June 2006 at 2:37pm |
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I just googled it and no luck. Call Tippmann and ask them yo send you an owners manual.
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Jmann4567
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Posted: 05 June 2006 at 4:14pm |
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wd-40 is a big no-no.
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98c
Smart Parts Teardrop Ricochet Rhino hopper deadOn double trigger Pen spring mod Custom paintjob http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=6/16221294395.jpg&s=f5 |
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BigRob
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Posted: 06 June 2006 at 11:30pm |
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why would you use wd-40 when gun oil costs about the same?
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98 Custom - CP 12" barrel - Delrin Starfire bolt - Double Trig. - Drop Forward - Rocket Cock II - FieldStrip Thumbscrew Kit - Red Dot Elec. Pistol Scope - Butt Plate & combat strap w/ rear swivel
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scooter patrol
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Posted: 27 September 2006 at 12:02am |
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I just had the same problem. First download the pro/carbine pdf manual off the Tippmann website. The pro-lite is basically the same gun. follow the instruction to breakdown the gun. Your problem is a worn main spring. If you pull out the spring and measure it, you will come up with about 4" to 4-1/2" long. This spring should be much longer. The spring losses tension and can't spring back to re-cock the rear bolt. A good cleaning with the proper oil from your local paintball supply won't hurt either. If the gun is not leaking air( you will hear it leaking) then all your seals are fine. I hope you have the same luck success as I did. My pro-lite shots like new. I constantly have to turn down from shooting too hot
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Scooter
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panhead4411
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Posted: 08 September 2008 at 9:49pm |
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So, i'm having the same problem, i just got a Pro Lite from a garage sale. After stripping and cleaning, lubing and reassembling, (i'm the owner of now 7 markers, and maintain all of them) the gun 'farts' and does not recock. My first thoughts are it could be either the spring is either too tight, or too loose, or there is a problem with the upper valve mechanism, i've had to replace that part in a 98 previously. After reading, i decided to check my spring length, it is just a shy under 6". Since you didn't post what the spring "should" ideally measure, i can only assume that this particular spring is not 'too worn.' After some experimenting, the gun will work properly while i am velocity spiking it by holding it down so the liquid CO2 flows into the gun. This is not an ideal method of play, so i want to make it work at a normal elevation. Based on my tests i've ruled out the possiblity of the valve being bad, so my attempts now will be to stretch the spring, or compress the spring. Stretching did not work, as it still needs the spiking to fire properly. I am now compressing the spring to test my last theory. Without cutting the spring, this could take a while. Any input would be appreciated. |
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Enos Shenk
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Posted: 09 September 2008 at 6:41pm |
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Any recocking problems, look at the sear and rear bolt first. See if the edges where they meet are worn down.
Second, check the o-ring on the rear bolt. Finally, this is unique to the prolite and carbine style guns, check and see if the linkage arm is bent. If its slightly bent it can cause excess friction. |
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panhead4411
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Posted: 10 September 2008 at 11:02pm |
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So, i'm getting tired or waiting for my spring to compress naturally (leaving it cocked), and am thinking about cutting a bit off the spring to achieve the same ends, but how easy is it to order the drive spring for a pro-lite, as from what i can tell, they no longer manufacture the pro-lite. (incase this does not work)
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oldpbnoob
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Not old, Not noob. May be Dave's grandma Joined: 04 February 2008 Location: Yankee Stadium Status: Offline Points: 5676 |
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Posted: 11 September 2008 at 5:25pm |
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http://www.tippmannparts.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.ca talog&categoryID=40 I think its on this page. |
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"When I grow up I want to marry a rich man and live in a condor next to the beach" -- My 7yr old daughter.
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panhead4411
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Posted: 11 September 2008 at 5:52pm |
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holy cow, that spring is spossed to be 7" long...i may end up trying to stretch it a bit more then...but i don't see how one would manage to mash that thing back into the gun, its got enough resistance at 6.3"....wow But is that any ideas on if it may be something wrong w/ the main valve mechanism itself. (only working while being spiked) Thanks for the info so far though! *edit* Ummm, yeah, so at 7", this not physically possible, i honestly don't think i will be able to wrangle the spring back into the gun **edit** So, i somehow managed to get it in, but it still would not recock, so i started to shorten the spring, this still made no difference in the recocking. So, now i'm gna have to buy a new spring, and its looking like i'll have to replace the main valve mechanism, which i hope i can still purchase as it says "discontinued". ***edit*** Okay, so i've now (after close inspection of the whole valve mechanism (wow, that thing is not made to come out with any small amount of effort, but it is better than a 98), i discovered that there may be another way of solving my problem. The valve pin that is on the drive hammer's side seemed rather close in size to the whole it poked through, so i just filed of a section of the pin to allow for more airflow to push the hammer back. I have to wait till morning to test it, but i have high hopes (crossing my fingers i didn't allow TOO much airflow). Edited by panhead4411 - 11 September 2008 at 11:29pm |
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panhead4411
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Posted: 01 October 2008 at 8:52pm |
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Brand new parts arived today, i instantly installed the new drive spring (after much effort) and the gun will still fart and not recock. There is one thing that, from the start i dismissed as a design flaw, i'm hear an awful lot of extra scraping when i manually cock the gun, like every single metal piece is rubbing against each other. But there is no way to avoid this from what i can see of the gun. everything is where it needs to be, but the rear hammer sounds to be rubbing a good bit, as well as random other parts. From what i can tell, the drive-spring guide pin is the only thing that guides the rear hammer. Any help would be greatly appreciated! |
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Cormier wrote: