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Custom Paintjob FAQ

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ShotFromAfar View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ShotFromAfar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 July 2009 at 9:01pm
Could you perhaps tell me what build you have there? its an A-5 no doubt but what attatchments?cool gun btwClapClapClapClap

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Malolo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 May 2009 at 10:23pm
Was going to do digi camo, but then got tired of making stencils, so I went with tiger stripe, and decided to stop at the hopper and clip. But I really like the olive drab colour.




Edited by Malolo - 19 May 2009 at 10:24pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote robo4eva Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 January 2009 at 7:09pm

if i wanted to paint a hopper, would it be any easier, this is too challenging,lol pm me

You pop your head up and you see a paintball flying through the air and SPLAT! YOUR OUT!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote paintballplaya7 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 January 2009 at 12:39am
use the krylon special camo paint. good for plastic. it may take a little extra paint compared to metal. make sure to due light layers, don't glob it
*Custom Pro
*Cyclone feed
*X7 hopper
*M16 Carry Handle
*BT 16 Apex Barrel
*Car Stock
*remote
*camo paint job
*Single point sling
*JT Full Coverage Camo
*realtree RAP4 vest
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Epic Otter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 December 2008 at 8:07pm
i hate barging into the middle of a thread, but i'm looking to paint my Alpha black w/ e trigger, and kinda curious about painting it. How well will the plastic take the paint, or any recommendations? 

Edited by Epic Otter - 27 December 2008 at 8:13pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Desert Wookie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 September 2008 at 9:27am
My apologies for not replying in a timely fashin; School & work have been keeping me away from the forums for a while now... It is probably too late to answer these for you, but perhaps it will help others who are searching through the thread.

Originally posted by Mrwaffles Mrwaffles wrote:

-I don’t need reducer unless its humid outside, correct?

-What does the hardener do and do I need it?

-Do I need a clear coat?

-For TruStrip, do I want the aerosol can or a pint (can) of TruStrip?

-What is Denatured Alcohol used for? ( to clean parts after paint stripping, trustrip, sanding and then the alcohol I’m guessing?)


I dont use reducer; I'm not sure exactly when you would use it. But if its related to humidity, then that might be why. We avg about 20% here in New Mexico.


Hardener comes with the paint when you buy it. You need it to make it cure.


Clearcoat adds another layer of "clear" paint on top; It will give you added protection.


I have not used TruStrip. I use Alcohol & MEK for degreasing/ cleaning.


Originally posted by Mrwaffles Mrwaffles wrote:

What kind of chemicals do I want to clean my airbrush with, if any?

 


I use MEK to flush the system. Duracoat contains MEK in it, so using MEKfor a cleaner will help break up the junk inside.




Originally posted by Mrwaffles Mrwaffles wrote:

My brother has a 125psi compressor will that work? Anything special that a compressor must have to be able to work?


Thats plenty fine. You might need one of those dessicant modules that goes inline. It removes oil/water that might be in the line.


Originally posted by Mrwaffles Mrwaffles wrote:

What kind of grit sanding paper do I need for the metal parts? (I know for plastic since madcardisease suggested 600-800 and I figure I will use 800)

 


I use a sandblaster but the grit you selected seems appropriate. I like the Al-Ox paper best.


Originally posted by Mrwaffles Mrwaffles wrote:

On lauerweaponry.com I can only purchase the ez airbrush kit and the Advanced Airbrush Kit, I want the advanced, correct?

http://www.lauerweaponry.com/index.cfm?ID=1SAB&image=air bushkits.gif&frameset=1

 

I should use M.E.K paint stripper/cleaner or Jasco Paintstripper to get strip the paint I currently have on my 98C.Then I should use the TruStrip to clean the gun off after that. Then I sand down everything to prepare for painting. Good so far?

 

Any other steps to prepare the gun I should know about BEFORE I paint the gun?


The adv airbrush will do the trick.

I use Jasco first. Wash with soap & water. Sand. Rinse with Alcohol.


The only thing to be aware of is that you need a good respirator mask and good ventilation. MEK/Duracoat is some bad stuff. Folks nickname Methyl Ethyl Ketone, Methyl Ethyl Death. Dont skimp on this. Also get a good pair of thick chemical gloves.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nikolai049 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 June 2008 at 10:28pm
I prefer camo gun wrap - It's somewhat durable, adaptive and removes without sticking up my gun...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mrwaffles Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 June 2008 at 8:20pm

I HAVE extensively looked through this topic. I still however have some questions (in no particular order)

 

Questions I have:

 

-I don’t need reducer unless its humid outside, correct?

-What does the hardener do and do I need it?

-Do I need a clear coat?

-For TruStrip, do I want the aerosol can or a pint (can) of TruStrip?

-What is Denatured Alcohol used for? ( to clean parts after paint stripping, trustrip, sanding and then the alcohol I’m guessing?)

 

What kind of chemicals do I want to clean my airbrush with, if any?

Will I need anything else to clean my airbrush with?

 

My brother has a 125psi compressor will that work? Anything special that a compressor must have to be able to work? (it’s got a ¼ hose and the advanced spray kit comes with a ¼ hose adapter so I figure it’s good in that aspect)

 

What kind of grit sanding paper do I need for the metal parts? (I know for plastic since madcardisease suggested 600-800 and I figure I will use 800)

 

On lauerweaponry.com I can only purchase the ez airbrush kit and the Advanced Airbrush Kit, I want the advanced, correct?

http://www.lauerweaponry.com/index.cfm?ID=1SAB&image=air bushkits.gif&frameset=1

 

I should use M.E.K paint stripper/cleaner or Jasco Paintstripper to get strip the paint I currently have on my 98C.Then I should use the TruStrip to clean the gun off after that. Then I sand down everything to prepare for painting. Good so far?

 

Any other steps to prepare the gun I should know about BEFORE I paint the gun?

 

So I’m thinking when I place my order at lauerweaponry I will get:

DuraCoat Ultra Flat Tactical Coyote Brown, 4 oz.

DuraCoat Ultra Flat Tactical OD Green, 4 oz.

DuraCoat Ultra Flat Tactical Dark Earth, 4 oz.

DuraCoat Ultra Flat Tactical Black, 4 oz.

Advanced Airbrush Kit

 

Other stuff I need (to buy):

3M blue painters tape

Wet/Dry fine sanding sponge

methyl ethyl keytone (M.E.K.) paint stripper/cleaner or Jasco Paintstripper (which one works better?)

Denatured Alcohol

Paint respirator

DUPLI-COLOR ADHESION PROMOTER (says its good for painting plastic, fiberglass, bumpers and aluminum trim molding)

800 grit wet sandpaper

 

Thing I have, but will need:

Laytex gloves

Exacto knife

 

Thanks very much

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ashes View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ashes Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 May 2008 at 7:33pm
Just a couple painting tips.

Oven cleaner, like Easy Off, will eat paint but not
plastic. I have used it many times on different types of
plastic and plaster. It usually needs to be used twice.
Spray the object heavily, let it sit for 15 minutes,
scrub it with warm soapy water and a dish scrubber, dry
it, and repeat. It doesn't work on baked enamel or
powder coating, but works on pretty much any spray paint
we use at home.

Scotch-Brite (3M) scour pads, which are 4x6 inch
(10x15.5cm), 1/4 inch (8mm) thick, and usually dark
green, are equivalent to 400 grit sandpaper. They're
used in autobody shops for things like radiator grills,
and tight spots. They work great for sanding between
coats of paint to remove lint that fell on the paint, or
to remove the gloss from enamel. I use them dry. Using
them with water will make them sand more aggressively.
The red ones, if you can find them, are more coarse..
about 300 grit. They're about $3 for 5, and last a very
long time. You can sand down an entire car with one of
them, and it's still good after. They're good until they
fall apart.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Desert Wookie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 January 2008 at 4:40pm
Looks great considering you went the tape route! That must have taken some time.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote barf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 December 2007 at 3:37pm

my digicam tropical green 98....

did the ghetto method with painters tape.....

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pants500 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 August 2007 at 3:29am

Hey guys, i really appreciate these guides, i'm in the process of painting a 98 custom as a project of mine.  I found this pretty decent 98 used w/ a 9oz co2, + 2 hoppers for 75 bucks on ebay, and just had to nail it. Currently i'm in the process of sanding, and i should be done by tomarrow.  I'll post pics up on the finished product, just thought i'd say thank you to those who made guides.

         

A-5:
E-grip with APE rampage board installed, JCS powertube, JCS rear velocity adjust,JCS Jet click cyclone feed mod, camo graphics kit, freak barrel kit, 4500 psi tank.

CCI Phantom
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Desert Wookie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 August 2007 at 8:49am
[QUOTE=xXDemonXx] im just going
to use painters tape ripped upand some of my model spray paint. will that
do and also i have a A-5 and i like Tippmann graphic should i tape off the
whole part or just the lettering and graphics and would i use an xacto to do
that and would that cut the gun and ruin the paintjob.../QUOTE]

Tape and model paint will be fine.

As for the A5 nameplate, I would take a hair dryer and warm it up. Then carefully remove the nameplate. Paint your gun and glue it back in place.

My $.02


Edited by Desert Wookie - 13 August 2007 at 8:49am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mickco Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 August 2007 at 12:27am
hello i have been thinking about this for a while and i got the extra money to do this now. I was wondering if someone can point me in the direction of a gravity feed airbrush, preferibly one that comes with conpressed air that way i dont have to dig up my air compressor. i dont really want to spend more then $50 on this because im only painting a few guns and a ps3. thanks in advanced. if you live in toronto or the gta (you know who you are) and know of a good store please tell me. i prefer to buy from a store then online
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote xXDemonXx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 August 2007 at 10:01pm
im spending most of my money on the gun so for the paintjob im just going
to use painters tape ripped upand some of my model spray paint. will that
do and also i have a A-5 and i like Tippmann graphic should i tape off the
whole part or just the lettering and graphics and would i use an xacto to do
that and would that cut the gun and ruin the paintjob.... help me im a newb
at painting my gun but im pro at painting other players :) in just kinda outa
my zone
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Desert Wookie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 August 2007 at 5:23pm
If you have an airbrush, duracoat is a dandy paint that will last a very long time.

If you are going the spraycan route, use soem brownells alumahyde or krylon fusion. Do the standard cleaning and priming before you apply the paint.

G'luck
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 98customdude98 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 July 2007 at 1:10pm
if i jst wanted to paint the gun nothing else, what should i use and how should i do it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote thghst Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 July 2007 at 4:46am
sweet im goign to try this
hmmm....so how do you want to do this? on top or bottom?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ownagewith98 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 June 2007 at 10:35pm
i like ur digi camo with the black grey and white- ur an awesome painter, were u live maybe if ur near me i could get u to paint my gun lol (jk)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Black_Shadow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 February 2007 at 10:16am
i plan to do a paintjob on my new 98c, but im not sure whether to go with a metallic white, or some silver to yellow or gold or red fade

one of the best things to use is automotive paint, its relatively cheap and looks great...

i may not be one for the camo paintjob, but still cool use of stencils...

Note: the best way to do a fade is to spray the brightest/shiniest color first, then spray the other color as you move it away from your marker, it turns out great after 3-4 light coats of gloss...

also theres a cool technique i came up with to put pinstripes on your marker, ill test it out first, but you can be sure ill cover it in my paintjob post...

great job wookie!


Edited by Black_Shadow - 21 February 2007 at 10:18am
98CP ACT
R/T
J&J Ceramic 14"
Egg II w Z-Board
GTA Inline X-Chamber
NCStar Red-Dot
Pen Spring Mod
Trigger Stops
Polished Internals
Dye Sticky Grip
20oz Co2 w On/Off

Next Up: Spimmy
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