Super R/T + QEV Tutorial |
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USNCV63
Member Joined: 02 February 2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 18 |
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Phil Spent sometime at the paintball shop today working on the gun. Replaced the macro line and one of it's fittings that seemed to be leaking, still not perfect but i can get it to stop leaking when i need to. We were testing it with the 1/16 lines and it seemed slow. Then started ripping (going into very fast bursts at sudden times). So he thought it was my rear bolt causing that due to wear. We checked it and it seemed fine. Then he replaced the drive spring with a Madd Mann drive spring and WOW what a difference. Very fast now and the sweet spot seems very easy to find and hold. We replaced the hose lines with the 1/8 lines and then the QEV broke. Remember when i had it cranked down before, well i must have over done it and gave it a hair line fracture on the threads and it broke off right in the feeder cylinder. So now that is shot. We replaced it with the regular 1/8th fitting and still the same result, only able to get 2-3 shot bursts no matter where you dialed it in. So we went with the stock 1/16 hoses and fittings. Everything seems to be working fine, better even i would say with the new spring. As far as the QEV, i don't think i will be replacing it. Everything seems to be working fine now so i'll probably keep it the way it is. Or atleast until i hear some break through news to make this mod work on my gun. Which i'm trying to get in touch with some local paintball shop owners and ask if they have dealt with this yet. So i think i have things narrowed down to the upgrade itself, it's just not working for me. Everything works with out it but once i put in on there goes my rt. Just can't get it. A local Clippard representative called me today, ironic. I told him what i was attempting to do with my gun and he explained to me in terms that i can't repeat cause it was over my head why this wouldn't work with this gun. Something about pressure relay and the gun wouldn't function properly, just not designed for it. Took some pics of my gun but the battery went dead, i'll get them up tomorrow. Is there anything on the gun you specifically want to see? I took pics of the lines and everything. One nice thing is that the guy at the paintball shop is adding HPA to his shop. Now just buying the bottles. I'm still not set on HPA, but if i do make that switch i may buy another QEV and give this a try again. Lastly, hope you didn't miss too much of the superbowl, i know i didn't. thanks man Advantage My cylone has been working the whole time, no problems there. I don't think it was affected when i cranked down on the QEV. Lesson be learned, don't crank down on yours too hard like i did mine, i should have been more careful knowing it was brass. Keep in mind it is difficult to get the QEV to line up with the T barb and still be tight.
Edited by USNCV63 - 05 February 2007 at 9:36pm |
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A-5
Polished internals Flatline 16" ThunderPig w/shroud Vortex Mod w/ lightening rod Expansion Chamber Oversized Hopper 3 point sling MaddMann Spring Set |
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phil_stl
Gold Member strike 1 flaming 3/2 Joined: 01 April 2006 Status: Offline Points: 1421 |
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MY DARN INTERNET!! I had written you an in depth response. I tried to send and I disconnected. So I'm re-writing.
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Advantage
Member Joined: 26 September 2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 23 |
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Phil_stl I do actually have another question to you and anyone else that tried this mod. I have a theory that the increased space in the hoses and fittings might be able to help in the r/t's ability to function in colder temps. I played last week in 31 degrees F and found my response was not working due to freeze up. Chances are the increased size won't make too much of a difference if any. I'll have to see. Anyone playing in colder temps finding that this mod helps? Edit: oh I know there will be a whole lot of advice in switching to air but I have plenty of access to CO2 (while air is more of a pain in the butt) and I'm willing to deal with it's shortcomings just want to do it the best I can. Edited by Advantage - 05 February 2007 at 7:01pm |
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A5 with somewhat a Super Response trigger,QEV, x chamber, Flatline, JJ ceramic, SP progressive...Powered by old skool CO2
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phil_stl
Gold Member strike 1 flaming 3/2 Joined: 01 April 2006 Status: Offline Points: 1421 |
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Edited by phil_stl - 05 February 2007 at 5:12pm |
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Advantage
Member Joined: 26 September 2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 23 |
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Hi all...I just ordered the super R/T fittings/hoses and a palmer's QEV. While I've been waiting for the parts I've been reading many of the past threads concerning the super r/t mod, QEVs, and r/t troubles. UNSCV63 Is your cyclone working? Is it possible to crank the MEV down too far in where it would interfere with the cyclone? I mention this because Palmer's warns against doing that for their QEV and you mentioned you cranked it down good. I'm not sure if that would have an effect on the R/T or not. Good Luck. I hope my mod goes a little more smoothly. Phil_stl While this board has plenty of questions about troubles with the super r/t mod, I haven't read much feedback on the performance. Is it a night and day difference between super and stock r/t? Is my stock cyclone going to throw fireballs out of it and explode before I do the Vortex mod? Any parts that have been subject to fail? Thanks in advance.
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A5 with somewhat a Super Response trigger,QEV, x chamber, Flatline, JJ ceramic, SP progressive...Powered by old skool CO2
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phil_stl
Gold Member strike 1 flaming 3/2 Joined: 01 April 2006 Status: Offline Points: 1421 |
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Edited by phil_stl - 04 February 2007 at 8:01pm |
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USNCV63
Member Joined: 02 February 2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 18 |
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I'll take some pictures tonight if i can, i don't have my digital camera right now but i should have it by tomorrow. The Napa grease i got says Sil-Glyde on the front, non-freezing, non-gumming, weatherproof, i think it should be ok to use. The only place i used oil was on the lightening rod, the end of it that does not connect to the rachet, but on the end with the o-ring, this is what the directions said. I picked up some o-rings from Lowe's today just to try out. Not so sure what they are made out of but they seem to fit on very well and are thicker. Also picked up some hose line the will go from the T-barb to the trigger, not sure how else to describe that end. This seems to also fit very well. The hose that was there before was just a little too short. The leak i had was in a macro line, i'll get that fixed tomorrow. I have the Clippard QEV, from what i've read either should work fine. I did put the 1/16 hose line and fittings on before i ran out of CO2 and the response seemed to be working ok, not fast but it was firing with out stopping like it would normally. One thing i'm not understanding, are you still having the same problems i am with the super rt? Freezing up and then not working? It sounds like you got yours fixed but then in another post you made it sound like you still experience this problem. I'll do my best to get detailed pics on here by tomorrow. I've PM'd Raven but haven't heard back from him, but it was only yesterday that i PM'd him. |
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A-5
Polished internals Flatline 16" ThunderPig w/shroud Vortex Mod w/ lightening rod Expansion Chamber Oversized Hopper 3 point sling MaddMann Spring Set |
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phil_stl
Gold Member strike 1 flaming 3/2 Joined: 01 April 2006 Status: Offline Points: 1421 |
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Shocker Lube is basically just Dow 33. Napa I don't know what it is. I've searched and all I can find is called "Napa Oil and Grease".
Make sure you didn't actually use oil or "Oil and Grease" on the Vortex or lightening rod, it strongly recommends against that it must be grease, the best is normally Dow 33 or 35 I think. Get those new o-rings. Fix your leak in braided hose (metal wire) going from your ASA to your ex-chamber. Is that were your leak is coming from? Do you have a braided hose or is it the macro line hose? Do you have a Clippard MEV-2 or a QEV (like a Palmers QEV)? Actually it would be better if you showed me a few pictures of what you have and how it's set up that might help. But first get those things fixed and worked out and then we can check a few more things off of this list if it still doesn't work afterwards. |
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USNCV63
Member Joined: 02 February 2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 18 |
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I used grease that i got from Napa to use on the Vortex Mod, i checked it out, compared it to shocker lube, and it was ok to use the kind that i got. I tried turning down the velocity and it didn't really help. I'm out of CO2 now so i have to wait until tomorrow when i can get some more to test things out. I've also put the 1/16 hose lines and fittings back on. I think that the RT is broken in, i've shot atleast 1000 shots with the super response trigger alone. I also need to get new o-rings for the QEV, i had it that tight that the o-rings are shot now, they were cheap anyway. I also have a leak in the tube that goes from the trigger assembly to the ex-chamber. It's been there for a while, sometimes i can get it to stop but now it's just aggrivating so i'm going to get a replacement line for that too. Edited by USNCV63 - 04 February 2007 at 10:05am |
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A-5
Polished internals Flatline 16" ThunderPig w/shroud Vortex Mod w/ lightening rod Expansion Chamber Oversized Hopper 3 point sling MaddMann Spring Set |
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phil_stl
Gold Member strike 1 flaming 3/2 Joined: 01 April 2006 Status: Offline Points: 1421 |
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I have not installed my vortex mod or my lightening rod yet. You said you spent much time installing it getting it right so I don't think it's that. (did you use oil on the Vortex mod? or grease like shocker lube or dye lube etc.) Yes do try turning down the velocity and test some more, then test at different velocities. (Turning the screw out makes the velocity go higher. Turning the screw in lowers the velocity). Getting new o-rings could probably help but I personally don't think that is your problem. Plus don't worry about the oil looking a little black, it happens. The o-ring on the stock doesn't matter, I took mine off completely. Lastly it could just be that you need to keep shooting it more. I think that was my real problem... the RT takes a bit of time to break in. If you have shoot over 1000 paintballs then there is definitely a problem. But maybe you just need to break it all in. |
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USNCV63
Member Joined: 02 February 2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 18 |
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Well Phil here's todays progress report. None, no progress. Tried it out first thing today, and it was working fine until it froze like it was before. Took it apart, wiped out the inside and did find that the oil was slightly black that i was wiping out. Took apart the feeder to see how the Vortex Mod was looking and the grease was discolored from the rachet, wiped it clean as best as i could and greased it up again. I noticed that since i did crank the QEV down tight that the extra o-rings just kinda pushed up so i think i'm going to try and get replacement for it, but i don't think that it is leaking. I did notice that the o-ring on the stock is sliced, not sure if that would be a problem with this. Should i try turning down the velocity? I was thinkng about that too. Through any ideas you have my way, i'm running out of options to check I'm going to give it a little while and put the 1/16 hose lines and fittings back on later after my CO2 has warmed up. I'm thinking i'm going to PM Raven for his opinion and see what he says. |
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A-5
Polished internals Flatline 16" ThunderPig w/shroud Vortex Mod w/ lightening rod Expansion Chamber Oversized Hopper 3 point sling MaddMann Spring Set |
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phil_stl
Gold Member strike 1 flaming 3/2 Joined: 01 April 2006 Status: Offline Points: 1421 |
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I honestly don't know were I got the o-rings. The o-rings were found from my brothers extra o-rings, parts for ion or something. I was going to buy a ion o-ring kit on ebay for ions but they were buna and nitrile o-rings so I didn't but maybe they might work. Yup that mothers mag is great... except for the smell. Good luck tommorow. Raven hasn't been around much recently, IDK why not though... maybe school? I figured in the meanwhile I could pick up the slack. |
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USNCV63
Member Joined: 02 February 2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 18 |
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I was wondering where you got your o-rings and if possibly a paintball shop would have them. I also run and ex-chamber antisiphoned tank and get the same problem. Never mind the drilling a bigger hole into the power tube idea, i didn't realize it was set up that way, i was thinking something different. I should have looked before i typed. Yeah i had to sand like hell to get all the rough parts out but it worked, i wanted to go with the 1500 so there would be less of a chance of scaring the insides, and then yes i used mothers mag polish, it worked great. The oil i use is Extreme Rage Paintball Marker Oil. Made by PMI, resists freezing, 100% synthetic. Sounds ok to me. I'm going to give it another run tomorrow and see what happens after putting it back together again. I'll probably strip it down and wipe out some of the oil thinking that i possibly put too much in. That's the only thing i can think of. The QEV is on there very tight now so that shouldn't be an issue. One other question, where is RavenGuard on this subject, he seems to be the guru (sp?) on the super RT. |
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phil_stl
Gold Member strike 1 flaming 3/2 Joined: 01 April 2006 Status: Offline Points: 1421 |
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I don't know what my o-rings are made of. I heard Buna and nitrile aren't good with C02. The best is Urethane but I don't know if you could find any Urethane ones that small. Buna or Nitrile ones might work but eessh. What other material is o-rings made of? Anyone can answer this. Yes my t barb does freeze up. HPA is the best solution. I run an ex-chamber antisiphoned tank or exchamber with remote and a non anti siphoned tank that is standing upwards so no CO2 is getting into it. But it will still frost and the exchamber will still gets freezing cold. Drilling a bigger hole in the gun?? What?? The T-fitting screws into the powertube. So you'd have to drill the powertube... making that hole any bigger would wreck the powertube as in the fitting won't screw into it any more. Grit 1500?? I spent at least 1.5 hours on mine but first I used steel wool to get all the hard stuff off! Then grit 660, anything over 800 seams useless to me. Did you actually get the rough finish off? If so wow, you must have been scrubbing those intenz like crazy, or have really strong hands and arms. I did you mothers mag polish too btw. The problem could be the oil. I only use the best: "Kermode Concepts 100% Synthetic Trouble Free Gun Oil" it won't slush and it's even FDA approved so if you're thisty . Anyway what oil do you use? Edited by phil_stl - 02 February 2007 at 7:46pm |
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USNCV63
Member Joined: 02 February 2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 18 |
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Phil Do you know what kind of o-rings you used or what they are made for? Specifics is what i'm looking for there so that i can go out and find some too. I did notice that even by putting on the extra o-rings you still do not get a good tight seel. As a matter of fact it was still a little loose last night when we were testing it but now i have it really cranked on there. And was your's freezing up at the T barb also? Last night when we were dialing it in it was working until it would freeze up in about 2 minutes, then just a short 2-3 burst no matter where you dialed it in at. I was talking to someone at work today about this and described my problem to him. He was thinking of possibly drilling out the hole of the T barb that goes into the gun itself. Let me try to refrase that, not drill the hole in the T barb but in the gun, allowing more CO2 to travel into there, thinking this could be the problem, or that i did in fact over do it with the oil and that hole is gummed up. He also called Tippmann tech support and they told me to add an expansion chamber, which i already have, or switch to HPA or Nitro. I'm not even sure where the closest place to get either of those filled is so that is probably out. 1500 grit, it's the way to go man, takes about 2 hours but it's worth itthat and some mother's aluminum polish which really takes off the over spray very well. Gets a good mirror finish to it. Thanks for the help, much appriciated |
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phil_stl
Gold Member strike 1 flaming 3/2 Joined: 01 April 2006 Status: Offline Points: 1421 |
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Ya I had the same problem... except I sanded my internals with grit 660.
...grit 1500 holy crap you could get more off by rubbing your tumbs against it. lol. Anyway I did have the same problem. Sometimes my RT would just hit the back of the trigger and bounce back in not even set the RT off. So there couldn't have been enough air pressure. I took it all off and gave up for six months and then I put it back on and tried it out again and made sure I had proper orings (ones bigger than Clippard gives you - or you could pile all of the Clippard barb o-rings on top of each other but I suggest finding slightly bigger/thicker o-rings). That made sure there was no leaks and it started working great. You also have to spend a good amount of time actually dialing it in. Turn the ROF screw 1/4 of a turn then test, turn the ROF screw 1/4 of a turn then test, turn the ROF screw 1/4 of a turn then test etc. until it shoots like mad. Good luck |
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USNCV63
Member Joined: 02 February 2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 18 |
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I've just recently done some upgrades to my A-5 and now i'm having some problems. 1. I sanded down the inside were the bolts are with 1500 grit finishing sand paper and polished it with Mother's aluminum polish for a mirror finish. 2. Installed the Vortex Mod with Lightening rod, taking my time to do it also ( about 1 1/2 hour) making sure i got everything right. 3. Last, i did the Super RT Mod with the Clippard QEV. BTW, great instrucions RavenGuard I oiled the inside with marker oil then put the gun back together. I was testing out the response trigger, dialing it in, and now i only get a short burst of 2 or 3 shots. I took it to my local dealer and we spent almost 3 hours trying to find the problem. There was a bad O-ring were the trigger cylinder is and also the O-ring on the bolt, we replaced both of them and the problem was still there. We tried putting on an Egrip and it worked fine, which i assume would tell me that the O-rings inside the body of the gun were ok. What we noticed was that the CO2 was freezing up after about 2-3 minutes of use with a fresh bottle of CO2 then the response trigger would not work, as a matter of fact the T banjo fitting was getting white with frost on it and the expansion chamber would be freezing. We tried replacing the super RT with the stock 1/16 inch hose and fittings and still had the same problem. Also tried replacing the trigger cylinder and that didn't fix it. Could i have possibly applied too much oil before i put th gun back together?? I don't believe i sanded down too much, kinda hard to do with 1500 grit, everything inside seems to be snug. Any suggestions on what to try next would be greatly appriciated, Thanks. |
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kluve
Member Joined: 01 January 2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1 |
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what is the purpose with the orifice? do I need to put it in there or can i leave it out. My cyclone wont cycle and i cant figure out why. i have a 98c w/ super rt and cyclone any suggestions |
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phil_stl
Gold Member strike 1 flaming 3/2 Joined: 01 April 2006 Status: Offline Points: 1421 |
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Maybe I waited too long, but I had exams to study for. Anyway I figured I get you some pics. Hopefully they help. Edited by phil_stl - 06 January 2007 at 2:24pm |
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RavenGuard
Gold Member Joined: 31 October 2005 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 1861 |
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My super r/t setup cost me about $10 CND for all the extra parts.
Actually the Clippard MEV is a quick exhaust valve, but it's much smaller than those usually used on cylinders, thus it is titled MEV to show it is smaller. I guess MQEV would have overcomplicated things, but the "MEV" and "QEV" work exactly the same, the MEV is simply smaller. (you can look at the schematics) And pattison, are those ball bearings? Edited by RavenGuard - 25 December 2006 at 1:52pm |
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Tippmann A-5
Polished Internals E-Grip Ape Board JCS Blade Trigger QEV 8" Bigshot + Apex Ricochet R-5 / Tac Cap Palmers Stabilizer 68/4500 Crossfire |
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