Polishing My Internals

Well, from me doing it myself, I didn't notice much of a difference in anything, other people will say differently. It just takes time, you take some steel wool, and rub where the internals move, like by the bolt, and hammer, keep doing it until it looks shiny, but don't overdo it. http://www.a5og.net will probably have more in-depth instructions.

[IMG]http://i27.tinypic.com/1538fbc.jpg">
Squeeze Box
☣

I've heard it helps. It's not hard to do, it might take a while though. As long as you dont over-polish, you should be fine.

Pumpker'd; (V.) When a pump player runs up and shoots you at point blank range because you thought 20bps made you good.

I prefer using scotchbrite as a polishing media , steel wool works, but can remove too much material too quickly .

I'll PM you with details over the next few days .

Some say Polishing the internals voids the warranty , but thats unverified .

There should be some good detailed instructions on "model98.org" . Look for posts made by NaturalNewb , other posts there may or may not be as accurate and helpful .

SL68-II , micro honed and polished .688" bore . Tuff Enuf .
Widowmaker , under construction

Shadowminion wrote:

I prefer using scotchbrite as a polishing media , steel wool works, but can remove too much material too quickly .

I'll PM you with details over the next few days .

Some say Polishing the internals voids the warranty , but thats unverified .

There should be some good detailed instructions on "model98.org" . Look for posts made by NaturalNewb , other posts there may or may not be as accurate and helpful .

not like tippmann ever asks you for your warranty anyways.

Tippmann A-5
Polished Internals
E-Grip
Ape Board
JCS Blade Trigger
QEV
8" Bigshot + Apex
Ricochet R-5 / Tac Cap
Palmers Stabilizer
68/4500 Crossfire

^ lol

steel wool and rub

couldn't you use paint stipper on the inside? or will that take off more then you need to?

tippya5extreme

carl_the_sniper wrote:

$Originally posted by S\/\/4T-L()G4N$ S\/\/4T-L()G4N wrote:

carl_the_sniper wrote:

better air effiency is all i noticed.

it can be risky but for sure dont use sandpaper. besides that any moron can do it.

Glad to see you still post stuff you don't know what you are talking about... One reason not to use sandpaper (please...)

i dont get what you problem with my post was?

Gimme ONE good reason not to use sandpaper...

tippya5extreme wrote:

couldn't you use paint stipper on the inside? or will that take off more then you need to?

You COULD; couple problems with that though. First, you are dealing with a harsh chemical, to keep it on the inside would be difficult. The chances of your removing paint from the outside of the gun would be relatively high. Second, you are removing just a hair more than overspray. Cast aluminum (what the recievers are made of) is inherently rough. Has to do with the fast cooling process (i believe). You want to remove just a tad bit of aluminum to give the inside a some what mirrored finish (move towards that finish, if you get it, your probably ruined your receivers

). Lastly, that chemical would have to be completely removed by soaking your receivers in water and mild soap. If any of the chemical was left over, it would destroy all of your o-rings.

I wouldn't waste your time polishing, your marker will polish itself over time with use.

A-5
E-Grip
JCS Dual Trigger
DOP X-CORE 8 stage x-chamber
Lapco Bigshot 14" Beadblasted

Optional setup:
R/T
Dead on Blade trigger

true but that makes using it useless.

for me at least its hard to find something over 600 grit

tippya5extreme wrote:

couldn't you use paint stipper on the inside? or will that take off more then you need to?

There is no paint on the inside......

But maybe it will help, i don't know.

Rub it with steel wool, it should lower friction, thus increasing efficiency.

Resident SP fan rockin the Shocker.